Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2009 - Crank Shaft Cradle Leaking Oil
Mar 1, 2016
Last year I had carbon deposits cleaned on all 4 cylinders and fuel injectors replaced at a local shop. The same shop that did this work is now telling me that my crankshaft cradle needs to be resealed because it is leaking oil. There wasn't an oil leak issue prior to the carbon cleaning and replacement of injectors and they were the last people under my hood. I am wondering if this leak could have been caused by faulty reassembly or other damage after cleaning the cylinders and replacing the fuel injectors? I have a 2009 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 with about 75,000 miles.
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I looked under my truck and noticed a Antifreeze Leak I looked under the truck and noticed the antifreeze leaking around the crank shaft. I have never seen a leak from that area. I haven't pulled anything just want a good direction before I start pulling parts off.
I looked up top didn't see any hoses leaking. looked all around the block. the only place I can see it coming from is behind the crank shaft pulley somewhere.
2001 F150 XLT 4X4 ....
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I have a 2004 Jetta TDI Stationwagon. In January it started having starting problems. The car would crank but not fire. After about 8-9 tries it would fire. MOstly does it first crank of the day (whether morning or afternoon).
Mechanic #1 said it was the fuel filter and changed it. But it still had starting problems. Then Mechanic #1 said it was a sensor and changed it. Still had starting problems. In February, Mechanic #2 said it was the fuel pump. Changed the fuel pump. Still had starting problems.
Then Mechanic #2 said it was the crank sensor. But when he checked the crank sensor was brand new (apparently Mech #1 changed it in January). Still had same starting problems.
Mechanic #3 said he received the Crank sensor diagnostic error too but he checked it and it was brand new! He told me to take it to the dealer. I did. Dealer said no it wasn't the crank sensor it was the new fuel pump installed in April was defective. Took off the brand new fuel pump that was installed another brand new fuel pump. Next day car started fine but two days later didn't start again. Took car back to the dealer. They said after all it wasn't the fuel pump it was the crank sensor. After a couple days they said it wasn't the crank sensor but it was the EGR valve that was clogged with carbon. They changed the EGR valve, cleaned it out and gave the car back to me.
Today the car doesn't start again! I tried it about 7 times! Dealer is going to haul it back and try to figure it out! But I am frustrated! What could it be?
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Ok, I own a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GLI that I bought from my neighbor about 4 months ago, and recently, it started having problems. It's idling very high, around 1,500-2,000 rpms, it's leaking coolant, not from the bottom of the reservoir but from the top, and it's slightly overheating. Oh yeah, the speedometer stopped working. I've recently taken it to the shop twice, the first time to get the reservoir replaced, and the second time to get radiator replaced.
I have had problems with it stalling in the middle of the highway during traffic because it over heated. I commute daily to and from college and I want to make this car last as long as possible as I do not have the means to buy a new car. I have noticed that there seems to be a build up of air in the reservoir. I witnessed it leak, and there was a hissing sound coming from it. Also with the speedometer, the light doesnt turn on for it and that there is a clicking noise coming from it. Any tips?
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Driving to MA from PA, stopped for a meal, got back in car & got msg on info panel that R front headlight was not functioning. It was raining hard, but still daylight in late afternoon. Checked other lights & all seemed ok - running light working. Back in car - another 175 miles to go & it became evident R turn signal wasn't working. Did get to MA early evening, checked lights again & found that brake lights weren't working & more. VW dealer in town checked it out next day & said 30 amp fuse for lighting was melted w/fuse block, which they removed & replaced. Turns out I'm not the first person - VW instantly said they'd refund the $531 it cost, which tells me they're aware it's a fault of theirs. I'm wondering - what caused this? Google tells me they've had probs with this with Tiguans & a bunch of recalls. What's to stop it from happening again? What would have caused the fuse to melt in the first place? My husband has a 2013 Jetta TDI. Does that mean his car is at risk?
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Long time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
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I know a few days ago all of my blinker lights were working properly since I had the car serviced at the dealer and they made me test all the lights before I dropped it off. But yesterday my "check the lights" yellow lightbulb indicator came on, so I thought, ok, probably one of lights burned out. But then, when I needed to turn left, I saw my blinker on the dashboard blink with twice the usual frequency, but the only turning light I could see from behind the wheel, on the left mirror was blinking normally.
So, I stopped, got out of the car and looked around to find that neither of my front or rear left blinkers were working at all. So, here come the questions. How likely is it for BOTH lights to burn out at exactly same time? If they did, would this cause the dashboard blinker to blink at twice the usual rate? And if so, why is the mirror blinker blinks at normal rate? By the way, the right blinker is not affected by this strange affliction. Continuing, what is the best way to find out if this is
(a) capacitor problem,
(b) burned-out light(s) or
(c)(worst possible case)problem with a very expensive control board.
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2009 VW Jetta TDI... Both low beam/running headlights are not working. I tried to check the fuses but, according to my owners manual both left and right fuse slots are empty. I don't think both fuses fell out. Where the headlight fuses are supposed to be?
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I have been having trouble trying to release the lever under the hood on my 2009 Jetta. the interior lever seems to be working but when I attempt to depress the hood lever it won't budge! I like to check my oil on a regular basis and I have never had this challenge before. I'm also worried that if I am able to release it that I will not be able to secure it afterwards, rendering my vehicle inoperable. I am strongly considering just taking it for an oil change and "springing" the dilemma on the garage.
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The VW Owners Manual for my 2009 VW TDI Jetta indicates that the automatic transmission fluid and filter should be changed every 40,000 miles. However my independent mechanic's "after market" maintenance manuals say that the DSG should not be touched for the life of the car. I am perplexed
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I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
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Where the Crank Shaft Position sensor is located on a 2004 4.2 phaeton... Dealership want 360 to install it ...
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A little less than a year ago I decided to change the timing belt & water pump on my then 61k miles '05 V8. I bought the BlauParts timing belt kit and rented the tools from them also. The install went without a hitch, the old water pump gasket came off nice and clean and I installed the new water pump gasket without any RTV as per the instructions.
A couple of weeks ago the Phaeton hit 65k miles so I did an oil change and while I had the belly pan off I noticed a small whitish pink spot on the belly pan, right below the crankshaft pulley. Looking closer I found coolant traces that came from the water pump area. I cleaned it all up and decided to drive it for a few weeks to see if it's an actual ongoing leak or if that was maybe just an old leak that might have happened just after the install. Unfortunately it's an actual leak ..
First I thought maybe it's leaking out at the gasket but closer investigation shows that the leak is actually right below the pulley at the bottom of what looks like a freeze plug at the front of the water pump. Is this a common area for a leak with this type of water pump? It's only been installed for 11 months and 4,500 miles. Btw, the pump in the kit is a Saleri model GD42107.
I'm really bummed about this because it's a lot of work to swap a water pump out and I'd hate going thru all that work again (and having to rent the tools again). Question is, can I swap the water pump out without putting the front bumper into the service position? From what I recall the only clearance issue might be finding a puller that is short enough to pop off the camshaft sprockets with the radiator that close.
Here are a few photos from when I found the leak:
This was after a 200 mile trip, fresh coolant:
This is were the leak is coming from:
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I recently changed my sway bar bushings when I jacked the car I notice oil is leaking because the shaft is all wet. My question is it an easy Job or will it cost and is it something that's hurtful to the car if I don't fix asap...
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Passat, 2003, 5 speed, turbo, 1.8T engine, 4 door, 66K miles.
No oil on garage floor and tiny amount of oil at rear of engine, Is this urgent?
(I have had many cars with no seal or gasket issues- especially at 66K).
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Well, the ac in my truck has been less than exciting since I've owned it and its time to address it before another trip.
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
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I proudly purchased my new 2015 Highlander AWD XLT last year and brought it in for scheduled maintenance last month for an oil change and tire rotation. With 9,000 miles, I was told there was a fluid leak at the crank shaft and I would have to leave the car. 8 days later the car was ready after they lifted the engine and replaced every gasket on the engine block. I was given a loaner during this period.
One month later the 'check engine' light goes on and the car is flashing 'check AWD' 'TRAC off' . The service rep says I should not drive the car and have it towed into the shop. It took two days to get my car in and the Service Rep doesn't offer a loaner because he says the car is still drivable?
I went from Honda to owning my first Toyota and it's off to a really bad start.
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I was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
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I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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I have a 1974 ford f100
302
fmx transmission 14 bolt pan
tag off of transmission (not sure if this tells you anything)
The problem: the selector shaft is leaking
What I need: a replacement seal - part number or where to buy
Also, when I remove the valve body to replace the seal will there be any hidden BB's, springs or any other things come flying out that i need to keep an eye on. Valve body torque specs would be fantastic.
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