Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2009 - ABS Alarm Lights And Sounds Coming On While Driving At Speed In A Curve And Braking
Jun 1, 2014
I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
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I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
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2004 jetta, interior lights & door open light on dashboard intermittently come on and off while driving.
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I know a few days ago all of my blinker lights were working properly since I had the car serviced at the dealer and they made me test all the lights before I dropped it off. But yesterday my "check the lights" yellow lightbulb indicator came on, so I thought, ok, probably one of lights burned out. But then, when I needed to turn left, I saw my blinker on the dashboard blink with twice the usual frequency, but the only turning light I could see from behind the wheel, on the left mirror was blinking normally.
So, I stopped, got out of the car and looked around to find that neither of my front or rear left blinkers were working at all. So, here come the questions. How likely is it for BOTH lights to burn out at exactly same time? If they did, would this cause the dashboard blinker to blink at twice the usual rate? And if so, why is the mirror blinker blinks at normal rate? By the way, the right blinker is not affected by this strange affliction. Continuing, what is the best way to find out if this is
(a) capacitor problem,
(b) burned-out light(s) or
(c)(worst possible case)problem with a very expensive control board.
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Recently I changed a turn signal switch on my VW Jetta 1994, and it turned out the new switch had a faulty horn/airbag connection (just not springin out enough), such that power was not being relayed - I figured this out when the horn would not blow, and on inspection I realized that there was a gap between the connector on the top of the switch and the horn. At the same time I realized that my problem was the signal relay, and not the switch. So I changed back to my old signal switch. The horn is now fine, but I have the airbag alarm light on. I am cannot think of anything I did wrong. So I am wondering whether the light could be coming on because of the initial error when there was no connection where the airbag signal keeps coming on even after the repair error is corrected, or does the alarm indicate a current error rather than a lingering memory of the error I had initially?
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After I could not figure why I was having the alarm light I drove the car to a mechanic, explained my sleepless nights and many hours of problem analysis, and then the mechanic took his code reader, connected to the OBD car port, made a few clicks, and charged me $45 and then sent me off. The alarm light has not been back since - it blinks as expected when I start the car.
On my further research I have found that VW airbag light will come on if you check airbag with your ghetto OBD code reader - exactly what I had read! It registers "high resistance", and must be reset by someone with a qualified code reader!
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My Lexus SC430 parking sensor alarm sounds intermittently while I am driving. (No, I do not tailgate the car in front.)
It has happened several times, all but once when it was raining. On that one occasion, the sun was shining. It happened again today while it was raining, and continued to sound after the rain had stopped, but the road was still wet.
What could be causing this to happen, and how can it be prevented. I have decided to fit an ON-OFF switch, if the problem cannot be solved conventionally.
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My 2002 Passat 1.8T just turned over 100K miles and coming home from a long ride the other day I went round a curve and got the STOP-low engine oil pressure alarm. I immediately stopped and checked the oil and it was full. I restarted the car and the alarm was gone so I drove on home and around a few more days.
Then last weekend it happened again. Now if I crank it up and try to drive up the hill it comes on. Having it towed in the morning to the shop. Is it just a bad oil pump, bad censor, stopped up oil screen or what?
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My 03 Jetta TDI wagon, with 210,000 miles, had a grinding sound about 10% of the time when I braked, BUT ONLY AT UNDER 5 mph...that is the last couple of seconds before completely stopping. The car braked fine, but the periodic grinding worried me. Two weeks ago, my mechanic couldn't reproduce it; today, however, we did and he identified it as the ABS (and I remembered that sound from the couple of times the ABS has kicked in during winter driving. But my question was safety, and my mechanic says the car brakes fine...he has checked them all around and driven with me...and the fault is the ABS system and not the brakes themselves. Need to verify this? The car runs fine (I am the original owner, and for the first 7 or 8 years had it solely dealer maintained) and I plan a road trip this summer, but I need a little more comfort that the ABS acting up won't result in a more serious problem.
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I have a 2001 vw Jetta with a manual transmission (just over 155,000 miles). My first set of front brakes lasted to about 135,000. After they were replaced a shimmy started to appear when braking a few thousand miles in. At about 8,000 miles the shimmy became so bad that I brought the car back to the dealer. They said the rotors were warped. The pads and rotors were replaced again and in about 5,000 miles same thing. The pads and rotors were replaced again at no charge and it is now about 5,000 miles later and the same thing is happening again.
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My car has almost 80k on it. It is a 2005 VW Jetta 1.8T GLI. Been a great reliable car but I've been having a lot of trouble with the front end suspension. I get a horrible wobble in the front end. Translates into the steering wheel and feels like the wheels are wobbling very quickly only under braking. It is much heavier under heavy braking, but still exists even under light braking. I've replace my tie rods after finding a little play in them, checked my CV joints and axles and they looked good. Balljoints seem ok. Struts and strut mounts were replaced and the car has brand new tires that were balanced and aligned and rotated. When I replaced the tie rod, it went away temporarily but is back worse than ever. I'm getting really frustrated with this and the car feels dangerous to drive.
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I've been dealing with a frustrating issue for a while now. Whenever I use my key fob the alarm sets but my front and back driver side doors won't lock. After playing around I've noticed that the driver's side door locks when actually inserting the key and turning. Also, all of the doors lock when I am sitting in the driver's seat and push the lock button on the door panel but the back driver's side door won't unlock unless I crank the vehicle and hit the unlock button. I don't think the key fob has a low battery because I've used both key fobs and it locks one side but not the other. It's all very weird to me. The situation is frustrating for two reasons:
1) Doors are not actually locking so thieves have access to whatever they can grab and run away;
2) I occasionally forget to hit the unlock button and cause my alarm to go off and annoy neighbors, coworkers, etc.
What could be causing this? I'd like a quick fix but I'm afraid I'm going to have to open up the door panels and play around all weekend.
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My daughter has a 2006 Jetta and has recently experienced issues with acceleration. Merging on expressways and all of a sudden she can't seem to pick up speed and has to get over in the right lane because she is going so slow.
Been to 2 different shops, A neighborhood shop couldn't find anything wrong and neither can the Volkswagen dealer. No Error codes on the computer accept Knock Sensor. She's afraid to drive the car!
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The car is at rest, engine on, when I turn the wheel (either sides), there is this popping sounds, coming out from the front suspension. It almost sounds like the Titanic moments before it fell apart... It also happens when I drive slow, like parking or backing out...etc. Doesn't happen at >10mph.
So I had my friend turned the wheel and I inspect it. I can feel the spring or something popping on the strut mount of the front wheels. SEE PICTURE.
I also uploaded a video with sound. I have sufficient tools to remove the struts and springs.
2009 LE
Video : [URL] ......
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I've been wondering why my 5.4L sounds so grumpy at take off and then so quiet at speed.
I'm assuming this ain't factory? Looks like a flowmaster but can't find any markings on it.
I want to get dual exhaust (yes I like the look) but can't figure if I want Magnaflow or Flowmaster.
What I'm looking for is performance (is there even such a thing--rhetorical) and pure-wood-developing raw rumbling noise! Not the kind of noise but the kind that if you want to pop the throttle a bit you let the awesome guy next to you know that this truck ain't no slum.
I'm trying to figure out tips and placement-- I'm thinking straight back is the best bet?
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Yesterday, i bumped into the curb as I got home, and today when I went to work the car is pulling very hard to the right, and makes a squeeling sound when I get up to speed. The ball joint looks bad, but can that cause this problem?
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2003 VW Jetta VR6: Headlights are not coming on...reliably, at least. Both halogen bulbs have been changed twice in the last 5 months. This is what I know of the headlight issue I'm having:
If the bright light indicator on my heads-up display is on when I start the car, I have no headlights. Switching between high and low beam in the car does not do anything when this bright indicator is stuck on...I have only found one fix...see number 2.
I get out of the car and tap on the front right headlight...the lights come on, but the front right is much brighter than the left. The lights are on the low-beam setting at this point. Only tapping the front light gets the lights to come on...high beams do work once I get the lights to turn on.
Once the lights are on, they do not reliably stay on...they might turn off while driving down the road. Pulling over and tapping on the front right light will get them to turn back on. (think this might be a loose wire issue? if so... i can't figure out where, or what needs to be done to fix it...)
Very odd thing... prior to starting the car, the bright light indicator is on...I pull up on emergency brake and it toggles the bright light indicator. I get out of the car and tap the light, lights are on, go back in the car and pull up on the emergency brake...the lights go out. Put the emergency brake down, the lights come back on.
I'm completely perplexed by this headlight issue.
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My 2012 Kia suffered a "catastophic failure" of its transmission about 10K miles. It was replaced, I got a rental, all covered by warranty. Last month I noticed a vibration as I rounded a tight curve at high-ish speed (DC beltway). It felt like mu left front tire was going to fall off. But it came and went. two weeks later, again, vibrating and now I'm noticing it is associated with acceleration. Boyfriend in passenger side says it feels like Right rear wheel, I still feel like it's left front. Next day I drive to Virginia beach and almost turn around, the whole car is shuddering on acceleration at low speeds. I hit 95 and it settles down, but I took it in to dealer as soon as I returned.
Dealer couldn't find anything, so they rotated and rebalanced tires. I drove it home, no problem. Parked it for 2 weeks while I drove my other car. Next time I drive, vibration is back. This time dealer drives it, agrees it feels vibration, couldn't find a cause, but maybe it's debris on axle. Cleaned wheel wells, axles etc. Drove home no problem. Next day, vibration is back. Every time I accelerate it feels like I'm going to drop an axle, when I ease up, it decreases. Worse on curves. At constant speed, no vibration. I don't want to take it in again unless I can point these guys in the right direction. I really want to just give the car back and say give me another one.
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Mk4 2005 TDI 190,00 KM
Background: Purchased this car couple months ago. Did a bunch of maintenance, including rear pads/rotors, fronts still good. Also decide to bleed the system while I had the car on jacks. Followed Bentley procedure as I have previously, using a pressure bleeder making sure to stay at 12 psi and kept the reservoir topped up at all times. First I did the clutch slave, brakes and last I did VAG com procedure to bleed the ABS unit. Upon completion pedal felt good and I took it for drive ..
Brakes worked fine under normal braking force but when the car was slowing down and coasting to a stop with my foot on the brake (light pressure) the ABS engaged briefly(speed around 10-15km /h) right before the car came to a stop. Assumed maybe air in the system so re-bleed the ABS pump again .. Nothing same ABS kicks in right before stopping .. Cleaned all speed sensors and rings .. Nothing, still happening.
Recap:
-ABS does not engage under regular braking force, brakes work fine.
-ABS engages under light braking pressure right before complete stop. (ie parking car or pulling into a drive way)
So my question is, is it possible an ABS sensor out of the 4 is causing this? How about the brake switch? I know that on older VWs used to be 2 pin but this one is 4. Is it possible there is ABS pump problem? Air still in the system? Master cylinder?
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1997 vw jetta is bucking after driving 20-30 min. keeps going, just keeps bucking . Also, the speedometer doesn't always work.
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The issue I'm having, as stated is a no start issue. Its completely random and has no pattern. Here is the issue.
When the issue occurs, you will go to start the car to only have it click at you. No crank, no nothing. The click sounds like it comes from the engine bay but has not been confirmed. If you turn the key without the clutch in, putting the clutch in will make the click sound.
Thinking it was the ignition switch, I replaced it with a unit from advance auto. The issue occurred again shortly after so I pulled it out and put the old one back in. Then I replaced the starter. That didn't do it either.
It hasn't done it in a while so I kind of forgot about it but its started doing it again. Time to fix it.
Picture of the car for your viewing pleasure of displeasure...
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