Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2006 - Engine Randomly Misfires Causing Stutter Or Stammer
Mar 7, 2013
I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer.
I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean. The problem soon returned. The VW specialist also recommended that I take it to the dealership as they too had no clear idea as to what the problem is.
The car did suffer rodent damage in 2007 but was still under warranty so all the wiring that had been chewed on was replaced. I experimented using premium gas and regular gas. Premium gas seems to make the problem worse. Also, the misfires seem to lessen as the weather gets warmer. I would like to fix the problem to avoid any catastrophic failure but am trying to avoid throwing money away on any more guess work.
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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We have a 2009 2.0 Tiguan with approximately 60,000 miles. About 6 months ago, the check engine light came on so we took it in and found out the breather valve was stuck causing oil to enter the cylinder and causing misfires. Had this fixed an about a week later, the car acted up again. Took it in and removed & reinstalled the intake manifold. Both pricey fixes. The dealership said it was a problem with the 2.0 engine design. Now we have taken it in again to a local shop who is now informing us we will need to replace the intake manifold. He said the same thing about the engine design. Our concern is that this problem will need to be fixed on a fairly regular basis. We really love the vehicle but cannot afford the cost of this maintenance if it becomes routine and are considering trading it in for a Passat.
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2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
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2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
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I have a 2003 Jetta. It runs great until it just stalls out with no warning. There doesn't seem to be any particular thing I do to make it stall. I could be accelerating onto the highway, just driving down a residential street, moving along at 60 mph, or just starting out of the parking lot. It happens when it is cold and when it is hot. It could happen twice in one day and then not for two weeks. I have taken it to the dealer, a VW specialist, an excellent auto electric specialist, and the local mechanic. No one can figure it out. I have so far replaced the fuel pump, ignition wires, distributor, several engine sensors, complete tune-up, all filters, battery, and some misc wires and hoses. All told, I have spent over $3000. replacing stuff and trying to cure this car's ills. The dealer could not get it to duplicate the stalling. No codes have shown up at the VW dealer, the local guy, and Autozone. The auto electric guy drove it over 100 miles on one week with no problem, then it stalled on him. He immediately hooked it up to the diagnostic machine....and no codes! He was perplexed.
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I recently bought a 2006 Jetta with 31,000 from a used imported cars salesman. I've had it for 5 or 6 months and have put on 4,000 miles since I've gotten it. Sometimes it won't start for 2 or 3 days, it wil rumble the engine for 5 to 10 seconds then shut off. Then it will randomly start working fine for a day or two, and repeat itself.
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I have a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5. Every time I fill up the car all the way, i have this problem with it. i go to start the car and it wont start, i hear the engine turning, but it wont start, but if i wait for 5 mins and then try to start, it starts up and I don't have any issues with it after that.. If i fill up my car a little bit , i don't have this problem. only when i fill up the tank all the way, it gives me this trouble. What is going on and what is wrong with the car?
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I am having a problem with my car stalling randomly. It happens when I am driving and it also happened when the car was idling in the driveway. I believe it to be an electrical problem as there are no lights on the dashboard when I try to turn it over, however after a few minutes it will start and run ok. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but now I'm not so sure. There is no pattern to when it happens either. When driving the car will start sputtering then stall. I'll let it sit for a minute or so, then it starts again. What can be causing this?
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so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
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My 2000 Excursion, 6.8L V10 misfires when I try to start it, after a rain storm, and for the longest time, I could not figure out what was going on. After much use of a garden hose, to make rain, I found the rear two cylinder wells, on passenger side fill with water, due to a design defect in the engine hood that causes run off down that side of the engine. I visited with a mechanic, and was told that the hood design is common to a lot of the F series trucks, and the 8 and 10 cylinder engines are prone to the water buildup in the passenger rear spark plug wells. I am going to try to put a shield of some sort, around the two cylinder wells, to divert the water.
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While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
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Symptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
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Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
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I have a 06 gs300 that I just got a few months ago. Ive been having issues with idling and I got code reading which was Po300. After doing some research I found there was a recall on the engine for misfires. I called the lexus dealer and they had no idea what I was talking about.
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I own a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5 (Automatic transmission) with 68k miles. I purchased the car new in Nov '06. Beginning in August '10, the car began stalling while in motion. As a result, I lose power brakes & power steering. The car has been in for repairs on 4 separate occasions. Currently, they have had the car for 3 consecutive weeks. They claim they cannot find a problem and have advised me to return to the dealership to pick up my car. I am terrified to drive this car. A VW mechanic has advised me that should the car stall on the highway again (as it has in the past) I may not be so lucky as I was previously (I was going uphill) and likely lack the body weight to apply enough pressure to the brakes to stop the vehicle while maintaining control.
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Twice now, my 2006 VW Jetta has gone into "limp mode"--RPMs rev like mad but I get very little power, won't go into overdrive. Had to get it home both times by using the Tiptronic. The first time it happened, we were driving through The Poconos on a nice day. Shut the car off & restarted it with no problem. The 2nd time was during an intensely hot day & torrential rainstorm in MD. The car sat for 2 days before going back to normal. Is this normal behavior for a VW? And what makes it go into limp mode? I can understand it happening during the rainstorm but on a nice day of normal driving?
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I just had the tie rods replaced and a front end alignment on my VW Golf. The tires that were on the front were moved to the back because of some wear on the inside edge. The tires currently on the front look brand new, but the car pulls to the right more than it did before I had any of the work done. The place where I got the work done told me I would need to replace the two tires with wear but they are still in mostly good condition. They are telling me now the pulling is because the tires on the rear have wear. Can wear on rear tires really cause my car to pull so significantly to the right? The tires are only two years old. I do not want to replace them yet. The car front wheel drive.
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I am having issues with a 2006 Gen II Prius that just approached 120K miles. When going down a hill at approx. 35-40mph, the engine jerks when downshifting or when coasting.
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I have a 2006 vw Jetta and it runs great. It started out just when I would get gas the car wouldn't start I would have to turn the key and put my foot on the gas for it to start (starts pretty much the first time I do this) but recently it has done this three random times when I didn't fill up. Also my check engine light is on. What this problem could be?
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I have a 2006 vw jetta with about 145k miles on it. When I had taken it for oil change, I was told that there is an oil leak around the oil filter bracket and was given a quote of about 1100. Here is my confusion about. There are no oil spots under the car where I park it, never seen a drop of oil under the car. So where actually is this leak happening? How serious is it? The car doesn't burn a lot of oil either, the oil level doesn't go down drastically and don't have to add oil till oil changes.
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