Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2006 - Clicking Under Steering Wheel And Car Battery Dying
Nov 8, 2016
I've been having several issues with my 06 Jetta. First, it began by the car dying out of battery, and than i figured out that during the night the break lightswitch would turn on. I would be able to turn them off by getting in and pressing the breaks but they turn on a while after. Now, today I purchased a stoplight switch to replace the old one however, when I recharged my battery before installing the piece the car died a few minutes later, but when the car was off there was a strange clicking sound under the steering wheel it kept clicking for about 10 minutes before it finally stopped. What could be a possible issue or issues that are going on?
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While driving, a rapid clicking sound randomly comes from under and to the left of the steering wheel and the van concurrently has stuttered power. It still drives but is rapidly getting worse with frequency and we are on a road trip on the Oregon Coast with young kids and limited local mechanics. It seems like something as simple as a loose connection but before digging in to check electrical connections .....
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My 2001 Jetta 2.0L steering wheel vibrates at about 60+ mph and when I turn the steering wheel to the right into a turn, the vibration intensifies. I've changed and rotated my tires, but to no avail, the problem persists. I have yet to take this problem to a mechanic until I've found out what the issue actually is, as I do not want to get jerked around. I've looked around on various VW blogs, and from what I can gather, the CV joint needs to be replaced/repaired.
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I have a 2000 MK4 Jetta GLS that's had a clicking noise in one spot whenever I rock the steering wheel left-to-right or right-to-left. It's noticeable while stopped or at low-speed and seems to be in one particular "sweet spot." I've had the tie rod ends changed, with no improvement. It seems obvious that it's some kind of linkage or joint that's worn out, but I'm just not familiar enough with the steering system on these cars to know where to look. I thought maybe a bad CV joint, but they usually click when the wheels are turning, not when the steering wheel is being rotated, and they don't usually go on clicking for a year without wearing out.
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When I am sitting at a dead standstill and I turn the wheel lock to lock, left or right, I hear a clicking sound. The clicking is louder inside the car, but I can't tell if it's coming from the steering column or the various linkages in the suspension or drive systems.
If I drive in circles, with the wheel at a constant (or changing) angle, there are no clicks, so I don't think this is a CV joint issue.
What could be causing this noise? I really don't want to take off my lowering springs and restore this thing to the original configuration for a warranty repair visit to the dealership.
If I do, you may see a fire sale of H&R 20mm wheel adapters and B&G lowering springs in the near future.
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Battery kept dying. Had the battery tested. Bench tested as OK but kept dying. Replaced the battery with a new OEM. In a week, that battery was dying too. Alternator was putting out 13V but would dip down to 11V. Also did a parasitic current draw test. Car is only drawing 20mA at rest. Replaced the alternator with brand new. New alternator putting out 14.4V. Battery keeps dying. Still no parasitic current draw.
I did two things right around the same time I started having the issue. I put in a new head unit. I already had an aftermarket head unit and I simply upgraded. I know this isn't the issue because I ripped the thing out completely, including wiring harness, and I still kept having a problem. The other change I made was going from a MFSW to a 3-spoke. I removed the MFSW relay and switched the pins in the column so that the horn and airbag work properly. I tried the cruise control and it doesn't work. When I try to turn on the cruise control, it blows the horn fuse. Replaced the horn fuse and I just don't use the cruise.
What I'm wondering is if I messed up the CCM when I did the steering wheel swap. I've read that bad CCMs can kill batteries. I'm not having the typical faulty CCM issues. The only issues, besides the battery dying, are that the unlock on the keyfob will stop working at random, and the "door ajar" light on my dash flickers at random.
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Only electrical mod that was done was the fog light mod so I can turn them on when I want... Is it possible that even if the fog lights are off, that they are pulling some juice from the battery ? In the last 6 months my car has died 4 times, ever since the fog light mod.
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2009 Accent GL Sport manual transmission. Battery keeps dying. 2 batteries over the last 9 months. This is on my son's car. Replaced battery and a few months later it's dead again. Had the system checked no drains on the battery, alternator work great. No fathom drains in the system. The car can set for a week before being driven. The only thing we can think of, because it's not driven every day, the little battery drains out by the systems in the car(clock, etc.). we think there's a .8 amp drain or less.
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I have a 2000 volkswagen jetta 4 cyl and when I shut off the engine, what I believe to be the air compressor for the air conditioner starts an erratic clicking noise. sometimes it doesn't click at all, sometimes a little. I've had to jump start the car twice because I believe this may be running down my battery. Why this is happening or what the possible outcome will be...
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I recently bought a 2012 VW Jetta. My first German car, it has been both a really fun learning experience and (more often than not) a nightmare to work on. That said, I still am enjoying the car and intend to keep it for a while.
This past weekend, I took the factory wheels off to sand and paint them black, because I thought the car would look nice with black rims (and it was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new set!) Everything went well, I put them back on, and the car drives perfectly. Except it doesn't.
Now, I've got a noise coming from the rear passenger side wheel well. I'm not sure exactly what is causing the noise, and while I fancy myself a halfway decent Saturday Mechanic; I cannot diagnose or repair this problem myself. I have little to no experience working on drum brakes. All I know is this: the lug nuts are torqued, and the dealer has taken apart the brakes and informed me that nothing is broken or out of place. This cannot be the case - SOMETHING is making that clicking noise!
More information: it sounds JUST like the clicking noise you get when you forget to tighten your lug nuts and go for a drive, the rim moving around on the wheel studs and that noise it makes- this sounds exactly the same... The "click click click click" sound increases tempo as vehicle speed increases, and in volume when you very lightly apply the brakes and turn either direction. I don't know what to do, as usual, the closer I get to the dealership's service manager, the noise fades away.
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Its a 2008 Volkwagen jetta with about 60000 miles on it. My car makes a rapid fire clicking sound. I've checked the battery connections and they seem fine. When I tried to jump start, the electronics inside start flashing to the same clicking sound. The check engine light is on.
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I have worked on my 1994 Jetta GL many times when I had to disconnect the battery. This time every time I would reconnect the battery the car would continue to honk. Usually it honks only once. I finally figured that although I had taken off the key from the ignition, the key position had been left in position as if the key was still in (old car feature). My realization was too late. I inserted the key and made sure to turn it to off position before removing it and reconnecting the battery. After I did, the engine cannot start any more. When I turn the key I get a rattling sound from the general area of the key, but the engine does not start. What did I ruin now?
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Our 2000 Volkswagen Jetta will sometimes not start, no lights/power on dash or anywhere, battery seems dead. But when we hook up jumper cables (only to itself) and spark the wires by touching the loose ends together, power is restored and the car starts and runs normally.
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My car has almost 80k on it. It is a 2005 VW Jetta 1.8T GLI. Been a great reliable car but I've been having a lot of trouble with the front end suspension. I get a horrible wobble in the front end. Translates into the steering wheel and feels like the wheels are wobbling very quickly only under braking. It is much heavier under heavy braking, but still exists even under light braking. I've replace my tie rods after finding a little play in them, checked my CV joints and axles and they looked good. Balljoints seem ok. Struts and strut mounts were replaced and the car has brand new tires that were balanced and aligned and rotated. When I replaced the tie rod, it went away temporarily but is back worse than ever. I'm getting really frustrated with this and the car feels dangerous to drive.
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I recently had a 4-wheel alignment performed on my 2003 VW Passat. A couple days after the procedure I noticed my steering wheel was stiff and a whirring noise when I turned the wheel. Come to find out my power steering fluid is now leaking. Is this just a coincidence, or could the garage have broken something. It was not leaking or making any noises prior to the alignment.
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I have a 2003 volkswagen jetta and the steering pulls in the direction of a turn while making a turn on both the right and left sides. In April of this year the rack and pinion was replaced and an alignment was done. However, the steering still pulled in the direction of a turn. In addition, the drivers side tire completely wore out within 6-8 weeks of having the steering fixed while the other tires remained intact. We were told we had a loose tie-rod on the drivers side - could this cause the quick wear on the tire and cause the pull in the steering? Also there has been a clinking (metal to metal) sound on the drivers side that occurs whenever we hit potholes or drive over uneven surfaces, could that also be the tie rod?
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Passat, and I'm having some trouble with it. When I turn the steering wheel, there is a groaning sound both to the left and right. the other problem is when I'm accelerating slowly up an incline and turning the steering wheel, there a type of clicking sound I hear and feel on my accelerator. By the way, it's a V6 engine, Front wheel drive.
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Here are my questions.
1. What can cause repeated steering rack failures, which I am trying to dianose?
2. I found yellow spots in the snow that would come from the center of the vehicle (as opposed to near the wheels), could this be from the coolant system?
If you got that far, here is the relevant history. My wife drives my 2000 Jetta, its a nice car with repeated problems. One such problem is with the steering rack. 1. The steering rack failed in 2006, it was an expensive fix. It was leaking for a while, but I just topped off the fluid every couple of weeks. 2. Within a year the steering rack failed again, it was still under warranty. 3. 2 years later, the rack failed for a third time. I wrangled with the shop and they agreed to reduce my price for the fix even though the part was no longer under warranty. They had the car for a week trying to diagnose the problem, they said they found nothing out of the ordinary. I took the car to another mechanic a week later for some other issue, and he saw leaking from the fill plug--back to the dealer again. They said they cleaned the washers around the plug to fix the problem. No problems since then. Now its almost two years later and I have found a couple yellow spots in the snow, although near the center of the car and not near the wheels. This makes me think it may actually be a coolant leak, but I don't know right now.
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I have a 1998 Passat turbo wagon. A couple of months ago, the engine began intermittently shuddering/stuttering. The car/steering wheel vibrate when accelerated. Acceleration is very slow. It may start when started, or just driving down the road. This can last a few minutes/block or several minutes/blocks. It disappears just as quickly as it begins. My garage ran engine analysis and nothing shows. Can't do anything till they can duplicate, and I can't cause it to happen. During the occurrence, tach is at 9000 and steady. I use high octane gas. Today, while stuttering the engine just quit twice while stopped. Car has 115,000 miles and otherwise is in excellent shape mechanically (regular oil changes, etc.). What's happening?
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Background: 2003 jetta; just changed rotors and pads on rear wheels a month ago, they are disc brakes
So the other day I was driving in a school zone at about 20 mph when I heard a VERY loud sound, like I'm dragging metal. i might also describe it as two rusty metal plates being rubbed against each other, but really really loud.
The noise is related to speed, it sounds cyclical and speeds up as the wheel turns faster. It occurs when I am NOT braking.
I parked the car and came back to it a few days later move it and the sound disappeared for the first 100 feet and then came back.
We did 2 things - we changed the caliper, and we also noticed that a caliper bolt was missing. I am pretty sure the noise was coming from that missing bolt - i think the caliper became dislodged and was making contact with the rotor. The caliper also seemed to be dragging a little bit so we went ahead and changed it too.
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Symptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
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