I have an '04 Jetta TDI that stalls occasionally for the past 9 months. The stalling almost always occurs when I am stopped in traffic and then it restarts immediately. Recently it also stalled as I was driving down the street. Any clues? Seems to me like it might have something to do with the battery or alternator but I really don't know anything about diesel engines.
View 2 RepliesWhy my 2004 Jetta 1.8T Stalls out while Driving? It usually happens while on the Freeway, 60-70 Mph, I Coast to the Shoulder then it starts back up again...
View 3 RepliesWe have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
I own a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5 (Automatic transmission) with 68k miles. I purchased the car new in Nov '06. Beginning in August '10, the car began stalling while in motion. As a result, I lose power brakes & power steering. The car has been in for repairs on 4 separate occasions. Currently, they have had the car for 3 consecutive weeks. They claim they cannot find a problem and have advised me to return to the dealership to pick up my car. I am terrified to drive this car. A VW mechanic has advised me that should the car stall on the highway again (as it has in the past) I may not be so lucky as I was previously (I was going uphill) and likely lack the body weight to apply enough pressure to the brakes to stop the vehicle while maintaining control.
View 4 RepliesSo, I recently bought a 99.5 Jetta. (99 with a 00 body), fixes a few things. Alternator, oil pan, head gasket. I recently drove the car just up the road, drove it back. Went to pull in to my spot and it shut off! Wouldn't start but would crank over. Days go by, same problem. Runs for about 10 minutes then just dies. Fuel pump works, fuel filter isn't clogged. And the fuel relay works.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Jetta. It runs great until it just stalls out with no warning. There doesn't seem to be any particular thing I do to make it stall. I could be accelerating onto the highway, just driving down a residential street, moving along at 60 mph, or just starting out of the parking lot. It happens when it is cold and when it is hot. It could happen twice in one day and then not for two weeks. I have taken it to the dealer, a VW specialist, an excellent auto electric specialist, and the local mechanic. No one can figure it out. I have so far replaced the fuel pump, ignition wires, distributor, several engine sensors, complete tune-up, all filters, battery, and some misc wires and hoses. All told, I have spent over $3000. replacing stuff and trying to cure this car's ills. The dealer could not get it to duplicate the stalling. No codes have shown up at the VW dealer, the local guy, and Autozone. The auto electric guy drove it over 100 miles on one week with no problem, then it stalled on him. He immediately hooked it up to the diagnostic machine....and no codes! He was perplexed.
View 7 RepliesI was at the pump getting gas. Left the engine running. Put in gas. Put the cap back. Checked to make sure it was tight. Got back in the car to find that the engine had stalled. I thought maybe just a fluke. Then it happened again a few days later. Same situation. Last night I was sitting at idle (not at the filling station) and same thing. The engine is not running rough --nor is the idle. I seems to take around 5 minutes or so before stalling. It starts right back up no problem. I had a dealer tune-up about 2 months ago. Replaced spark plugs, plug wires, coil, PCV valve, etc. It cost a small fortune. Why this is happening? 2013 VW Jetta 2.0 ....
View 10 RepliesTwice now in the past week, my 2001 Jetta has become possessed. While driving along, the radio turns off. Then the warning lights all come on. If I use the turn signal the radio springs back to life and other weird electrical things happen. Eventually the car stalls. When I try to restart it, the warning lights all come on and the dashboard makes a click-click-clicking sound, and that's it. The first time, my mechanic said the alternator wasn't working correctly, but that he revved the engine and it kicked in. He then tested the alternator and battery and said both were ok. Is this an alternator problem? Something else?
View 2 Replies 04 Jetta GLI 1.8T... Just picked this girl up last week and I love it. Super smooth ride and shifts cleaner than any car I've driven and owned.
Originally wanted a TDI, but I couldn't resist this deal that fell in up my lap. Occasionally the EPC light comes on and goes away. Working on diagnosing it in the mean time...
My 2004 Jetta with 58.5K miles (bought new) stalled in traffic 3 weeks ago. A few seconds later I turned the key and it started OK- no stalling since. For the last 3+ years I have taken it in for shaking as if the vehicle will stall and sometimes it's close to that, especially when I come to a stop at the traffic light. This week the rubber thing I think called under tray came down. Also, the clock is off with an hour. This car usually goes to the VW dealer for service.
View 4 Replies2004 jetta, interior lights & door open light on dashboard intermittently come on and off while driving.
View 6 RepliesRecently (5 weeks ago), my 2004 Jetta misfired, which caused the car to shake very noticeably, especially at lower speeds or while idling. The misfire was accompanied by the smell of fuel on the driver side and triggered the check engine light to flash. I took it to the shop (a VW dealer). They ran diagnostics, found it signaled a misfire (but no other major issues/sensors) and told me it was due to the spark plugs/wires. I was dubious, as they were not too old, but I allowed them to replace them anyway, as they assured me this would fix the problem.
Just this week, however, another misfire occurred, also accompanied by the smell of fuel and shaking. This time, the check engine light remained on (constant) for 2 days, and on the third day, it was off. I brought it back to the same shop to try to figure out the real cause of the misfire, which obviously was not the previous spark plugs. My city gas mileage has also decreased over the past month - down to about 20-21 mpg from 23-24. What could be causing such a reoccurring misfire without signaling an issue with a sensor or other part?
My 2004 VW Jetta TDI has a pulsing sensation at 2000 and 2500 rpm. It is a manual transmission. We've recently replaced the clutch/flywheel and the fuel filter. The problem has been progressively getting more common. Injectors, turbo, fuel filter problems?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta TDI Stationwagon. In January it started having starting problems. The car would crank but not fire. After about 8-9 tries it would fire. MOstly does it first crank of the day (whether morning or afternoon).
Mechanic #1 said it was the fuel filter and changed it. But it still had starting problems. Then Mechanic #1 said it was a sensor and changed it. Still had starting problems. In February, Mechanic #2 said it was the fuel pump. Changed the fuel pump. Still had starting problems.
Then Mechanic #2 said it was the crank sensor. But when he checked the crank sensor was brand new (apparently Mech #1 changed it in January). Still had same starting problems.
Mechanic #3 said he received the Crank sensor diagnostic error too but he checked it and it was brand new! He told me to take it to the dealer. I did. Dealer said no it wasn't the crank sensor it was the new fuel pump installed in April was defective. Took off the brand new fuel pump that was installed another brand new fuel pump. Next day car started fine but two days later didn't start again. Took car back to the dealer. They said after all it wasn't the fuel pump it was the crank sensor. After a couple days they said it wasn't the crank sensor but it was the EGR valve that was clogged with carbon. They changed the EGR valve, cleaned it out and gave the car back to me.
Today the car doesn't start again! I tried it about 7 times! Dealer is going to haul it back and try to figure it out! But I am frustrated! What could it be?
The car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?
View 7 Replies1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
View 4 RepliesMy 1990 Jeep Cherokee (automatic trans) will occasionally stall. The engine stops turning, the tachy goes to 0, no power steering, no power brakes. After I come to a stop I can always start it right back up. The previous owner suspected it was the ignition switch because the vehicle was stolen multiple times, column broken, etc. but I took the switch out and everything seems good and tight there. I tested the switch, not connected to the lock and I couldn't get it to duplicate the problem. It locks cleanly into each position. Start position has strong spring. I tested all the positions with the ohmeter. I drove around with the switch disconnected from the lock and wiggled it as I drove and I couldn't get it to stall. Sometimes I can go days without a problem and other times it will do it three times in a mile long drive.
I've searched the Internet for an answer but all the other posts about stalling the owners have trouble restarting their vehicle. Mine has never failed to restart after stalling. When it stalls it is a sudden loss of engine, no coughing or sputtering. The tachy drops to zero along with oil pressure, etc but the radio, lights, etc stays on. If I wiggle the key in the ignition I can't get it to start back up even if I'm coasting along at 40 mph. I have to turn the key back to the start position.
I have a 99 Honda Civic. A few months ago, while driving in my neighborhood at about 25 mph, the car just stalled out and died. Within a minute, it started up again and was fine. My mechanic has checked it out a few times and found nothing. It's been totally fine and just did it again today. I leave tomorrow for a trip and am a little concerned about taking it on the road.
View 4 RepliesThis has been a great car, until it developed this weird thing. It will occasionally stall while being driven. no warning, the motor just dies. It is a manual trans. and sometimes will restart if I downshift. I have become adept at slamming on the hazard lights and pulling over.
View 5 RepliesOur new '64 Corvair Turbo car had been running pretty smooth, but occasionally stalls and can be hard to start. There has been noticeable flooding out of the carb bowl (single barrel Carter going into turbo). It has an electric choke that seems to be working correctly. The choke butterfly is closed when cold and opens as it gets warm.
Friday we drove to next town and it ran perfectly smooth but stalled when we got there, was very hard to start and ran super rough all the way home. It would not idle, had to hand brake at stops to keep from dying. It was normal temprature (400 degrees). Choke was wide open.
The next morning I started it easy, choke on (closed), but when it got warm it stalled and died. Then flooded fuel out of bowl.
I am only guessing... but seem like carb is tuned to run cold with choke on and is either running terribly lean or rich once it is at temperature.
While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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