Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2002 - Changing The Timing Belt?
Jul 28, 2013
I drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
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I recently changed the timing belt on my 2001 Avalon. I am now getting a P1351 code. I removed the timing belt covers and checked the marks, and everything lines up perfectly. I have checked this twice now. To give a little background, before I changed the timing belt, I was getting P0300, P0301, P0303 and P0305 codes along with a P1349. Upon looking up the codes, P0300 indicates a misfire on multiple cylinders, with P0301, P0303 and P0305 indicating misfires on cylinders 1, 3 and 5. The P1349 indicates a variable valve timing issue on bank 1 (cylinders 1, 3 and 5).
I had already changed all 6 coil packs and fuel injectors and spark plugs within the last year (iridium plugs), so I pretty much ruled out any of those. And since the valve timing code was on the same bank as the misfires, I figured that was the cause of the misfires. The oil level was fine, and it hadn't been all that long since I had changed oil. So the next possibility was the solenoid. I changed both of them. Since it was due for the timing belt, I decided to go ahead and change that too. Now, the P0300, P0301, P0303, 0305 and P1349 codes are gone. But after a day or two, the P1351 shows up. As I mentioned earlier, I took the timing belt covers off and checked the belt and alignment marks. All was perfect. I cleared the code. Within a few minutes of driving the code comes back. I checked the belt alignment again. Not loose, and marks line up perfectly. The car runs smooth as can be. I do notice that there is valve clatter on Bank 2. It sounds kind of like a diesel. But it is running smooth. It is also interesting that the original valve timing problem was on Bank 1, but the valve timing problem now is Bank 2. I have only driven it a few miles since the belt change. That's all it took for the code to come up.
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OK, so yesterday I changed my timing belt and all new components. I started the car before completely reassembling everything (bumpers, etc.) and it ran a little rough at first, then smoothed out. But this only lasted a few seconds and then it died out. I thought not much about it and finished my reassembly. Afterwards, the car would crank and crank and finally start. However, it would never idle smooth and it stalled out only after 1-2 seconds.
I did some investigation, and found the plugs all had wet oil on them. Changed them out and tried to start car with same results. Looked again at the plugs and they weren't as oily, but on their way. I looked all over for a source of this problem and found a broken "pipe" on the passenger side of the engine. It is black and sits behind a heat shield, directly under a larger black pipe. They both run from front to back. I think the broken one might be a vacuum line of some type, although when I plug it, nothing happens.
My fear is that I botched the timing belt job and subsequently, bent a mess of valves. But, I'm holding out hope for another cause of this dilemma. What is the smaller black tube/pipe on the side of the intake? The broken piece comes off a 90 degree elbow pointing to the ground. I'm guessing it was broken before the timing belt job, but who knows? Perhaps I broke it when I moved the radiator into service mode. Could it be part of the turbo? I thought that might cause the rough idle and stalling.
Oh, one other thing. When I last tried to start the car, I got a flashing "STOP" on the instrument panel, followed by something about the oil. The oil words only appeared for a split second before going away. Not even long enough for me to read the whole sentence.
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I got 102k on my 2000 1.8T Passat, ATW engine code. I'm thinking about changing the timing belt. Is there any way to check if it was done before. How to recognize factory timing belt?
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I am acquiring a 1991 Volvo 740 Turbo and am concerned about the need to change the timing belt. The seller does not have record of it being changed since he had the car for two years. He had only put about 10,000 miles on it since he had acquired it. It now has 186,000 miles and runs perfect and basically in good shape for its age. If the belt breaks does it ruin the engine?
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Looking for info if the R32 has a timing belt or is it a chain and at how many kilometers shows it be changed.
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Recently I changed the timing belt on a 2004 Passat 1.8T and I realized I put the timing tensioner off by a few millimeters due to misunderstanding. I started the engine and it didn't sound very healthy. So I took off the timing belt and realized the tensioner was off by 8 millimeters. I corrected it and restarted the engine and it began back-firing. I re-checked and replaced the belt 3 more times and it still back-fired. The engine runs perfectly from a few seconds to a few minutes, then begins back firing and it stalls out. I had a recent post and I had suggestions to check all hoses, connections, etc. and to scan the computer for error codes. I did so and got the codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304. These codes mean back-fire in cylinders 2-4. I don't see any valve adjustments in the engine so could the valves be bent and do I have to replace them? God forbid D: Or do I have to reset some kind of computer code in the car or any other error that may need adjusting? All connections, hoses, wires, etc. are good. I've been a professional mechanic/technician for 25 years now and fixed cranes, bulldozers, semi-trucks, and anything else you can name that has wheels and is land based, all sorts of engines, gas, diesel, ethanol, you name it... I also worked on several VW's, including my own, and figured this V-Dub would be a walk in the park , but it turns out this Passat is the most complicated thing I've worked on in my life!
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I have a 2005 Toyota camry solara with 66,000. Does the timing belt need to be done now due to age of the car?? Or wait alittle longer?
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We recently had the timing belt replaced in our 2003 Volkswagen Passat (1.8T). Now it shakes and vibrates badly when we put it in drive and idle. It ran smoothly before we had the belt replaced. The mechanic hasn't found a solution yet.
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I have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
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So, I got a 01 b5 1.8 5spd given to me was broken timing belt. The car is super clean with 226k on it and had been well-taken care of..oil changes Mobil 1 and such. the owner just got his $$ worth and drove it till the belt went, slapping then towed it to my shop. It did not overheat and he was not driving it hard. Now here is my real question...apars lapping on a new belt and crossing my fingers, what testing can I do to check and see if there are any valves damaged? Can't I do a compression test w/out the valve train in time right? Also, if there does happen to be head damage. I would be in the market for an AUG head, unless it's just a valve that can be replaced....
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I took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
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I have a 04 jetta bbw model engine with timing belt failure. while trying to replace and get camshaft back in time i cannot find a timing mark on camshaft gear as usual.
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First off I have a issue the Timing Belt Tensioner Stud / bolt that holds my tensioner on is stripped and came out with my tensioner. I don't want to risk putting it back into the engine because some one prior to owning my car stripped the nut that holds it in. Where I could get a new one of these bolts. I have a 2000 VW Golf GL with a 2.0l. I've searched high and low on parts sites and cannot figure out where to buy this item.
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I recently purchased 2003 gti with a broken timing belt i bought a reman cylinder head did the timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. I read the service manual and many forums before setting the timing. I got it all set and back together it runs great at the low end but it feels like when it starts to build boost pressure it stops making power. Would i throw a check engine light if the timing was any off? Would it run well on the low end and then lose power if the timing was off or should i be looking in a diffrent direction? I just want to make sure timing is not an issue.
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I plan to take the timing cover off tomorrow, but I wanted to post this video. You can hear the rattle immediately in the beginning of the video below and then intermittently after that. Also, is that whistling noise you hear while the engine's running normally?
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I just got my timing belt replaced by my mobile mechanic thats been doing it for years. I saw him do the work and get the timing right. When he was done the car turned on and ran perfect. After about a minute the car just shuts off. Now the car won't start at all. The car turns over but no start. The car ran perfectly before I had this job done.
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I recently replaced a timing belt in a 2003 ALH TDI & since it will not start. When I took everything apart I found the belt extremely worn & the engine had actually slightly jumped timing. When I replaced the pulleys & belt & reset the timing to the way it would be from factory. When I tried to start the vehicle it turns over fine but will not catch. I double checked all the timing, fuel pump, everything - all okay. I can get it running with ether but will not start with diesel fuel. I also replaced the fuel filter, checked to make sure there was fuel at the injection pump but nothing works.
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2.0L 8v ....So what's my chances the valves stayed clear of the pistons?
Driving 70mph 5the gear and cruise control set. Motor just died and I pulled off.
Cars back home in the garage. Iv ordered the ecs tuning timing belt kit.
This was a belt I installed 50k miles ago, shouldn't have gotten a auto parts store belt, or maybe it was my install, but I deff didn't think the belt was going to fail that early. Is there much of a difference between different brand belts and OEM?
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2003 Jetta station wagon, disc brakes all around.
Recently changed all 4 pads + the rear rotors. about 2 weeks after this the car started making a horrible noise from the rear driver side wheel- like the tires were dragging metal.
We took off the wheel last night, replaced the caliper, and discovered one caliper bolt was missing. We think this caused the caliper to misplace itself and start riding the rotor. The caliper was also in pretty bad shape so we went ahead and replaced it because we had already bought the part.
Anyway, we put everything together, drove it last night a short distance, everything was fine.
Today after driving apx. 25 miles since the replacement, the car has started whistling. I'm not sure where the noise is coming from, but it only happens at higher speeds, and I don't know if turning affects it but it happens going straight. It is a cyclical type of sound and goes away when braking.
Note: when replacing the caliper, my dad did not use the little metal brackets because we couldn't figure out how to place them and didn't think we needed them. Would that cause this noise? Is that dangerous to do?
UPDATE: I've mislead you all! Upon further inspection the whistling noise is coming from the serpentine belt area. I had assumed that it was coming from the wheel because we had JUST messed with it, but I was wrong. Now I'm wondering what's going on with the belt!
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2002 Toyota Solara SLE v6 w/ 209k miles
Drove the car home from church yesterday, this morning went to start and wouldn't start..
Tested the Fuel Pump and that looks good.. Pulled a spark plug and did a spark test and I get no spark.
After reading up I get the sense it is either the Crank Angle Sensor or the Timing Belt snapped .. I don't know the last time the timing belt was changed, we got the vehicle @ 190k miles..
Does a no spark symptom sound like a timing belt that could have snapped? I believe these are non-interference engines so it should be ok..
When turning the car over the RPM gauges doesn't look like it is moving but wanted to see for a complete spark failure.
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