Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2002 - CEL Came On / Power Drop And Shudder
Apr 16, 2013
So here's a stinker that apparently has my mechanic puzzled. A few days ago I brought in my 2002 Jetta wagon in for a headlamp bulb change and a oil change. I pull out, but by the time I get home the check engine light is on. The manual says it's an emissions issue. I plan to make a garage visit on Thursday. they call me and say that they have my hubcaps...for some reason. OK, well, the next day, I am accelerating to get onto the highway, and suddenly, there is a big power drop and shudder. I pull over, call AAA and they take me into the garage where I got the oil change. Today, they say that a number of the spark plugs were out, but that it was strange because the corrosion made it clear that they had not been disturbed or pulled off in any way. They said that the spark plugs accounted for all of the car's symptoms. But we could not figure out how multiple spark plugs came out.
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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I had recently purchased a 2003 golf gti AUTOMATIC (with optional shifter) with a 1.8 turbo 4 cylinder engine. The vehicle has 139,000 miles on it. Before purchasing, I had a mechanic come out and look at the vehicle for a pre-purchase inspection, and ran the code P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) which without test driving, told me that is what caused the shift shudder I noticed when I had test driven it a previous day. He told me the coil packs were in good condition by looking at the top of them, and told me if I replace the spark plugs, the issue should go away.
I feel it is important to mention that he had also run codes on the transmission and nothing came up. Taking it home, this morning I had replaced the spark plugs and driven it for about an hour both regularly and aggressively to test it. The problem is still there, and I was really hoping that there is a solution to this problem, because everything else on the car is beautiful, while being my dream car, I just want it to work as well as I know it can. To be more descriptive, when shifting to 3rd the whole car feels basically like it is tripping over itself before successfully shifting.
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I've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
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What the problem is, what to do about it, if VW is doing anything if you complain enough.
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I drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
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My mechanic says I need to replace both front sway bar links on my 2002 Jetta....I am, of course, hesitant to do it at this price. How critical is it to replace? Can I get junk yard sway bars to make it cheaper? And can I do it myself (have no experience fixing anything....
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I have the above referenced car with about 65k miles on it. Today I took it for a drive, switched it to tip-tronic manual and found that the car would not shift past 3rd gear. When I switched to automatic, the transmission stayed on tip-tronic (the display indicated I was on 3rd gear). I had to fully stop the car, place it on park and only then did the transmission switch to automatic.
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2 002 Jetta Bad misfire P0301 a bit long. 02 jetta gls with 2.0 AVH engine auto trans. over summer my brother overheated it & blew head gasket & valves. All parts listed are new between aug and now. I repaired engine as follows new head & bolts head gasket timing belt water pump coolant flange on drivers side new fuel rail and injectors car also has new coil pack, new VW plug wires and 1 week ago new iridium plugs my brother didn?t want car, so i bought it from him. Ran great after I rebuilt top end.
Car did 140 on the turnpike & ran great. once or twice while giving moderate to high throttle CEL would flash and I pulled P0300 as a pending code. Problem stopped after 2 days. last week after 4 hrs of idling(don't ask) started misfiring and CEL flashes constantly P0301 The misfire seems worse at idle and low speed. Car will get to highway speed but has bad pickup. This is what I?ve done/checked New iridium plugs Plug wires 4.5 ohms Coil pack is good and producing enough spark at each wire MAF sensor cleaned Cyl 1 compression good all injectors are clicking and when disconnected cause appropriate CEL error code Brought car to VW dealer for diagnosis VAG COM shows multiple misfire on cyl 1 Mechanic confirmed all the steps I took and components tested ok. He tried new coil pack, new plug and wire for cyl 1 and no change.
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My 2.0L Jetta had an intermittent misfire, only at idle. I took it in to the shop, and they fixed a vacuum leak and replaced the plugs. The car drove home fine, but the next morning it was misfiring at all speeds. When it got back to the shop, they said that the coil pack was bad. I wonder if they might have done something to cause the pack to fail, since it seemed to be working fine before I took it in. Their explanation was that the coil had become accustomed to sparking at an adjusted (more powerful) setting to account for the vacuum leak, and when it tried to go back to the factory setting, it quit working. Also, all of the stress from running at a higher output wore it out.
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I have a 2002 Prius that is in dealer for the death shudder with power steering. Here is issue, they replaced ECU and tell me that the new steering rack must be compatible with ECU? Anyway, I decided to order one online and was wondering if it will work? How can I be sure that part will be compatible with new ECU?
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I have had the car sense it was brand new and sense I have had it I have had this problem. I mostly notice a problem soon after starting the engine up and come to a stop, but is not limited to that all the times. When I come to a stop the car will feel like it is struggling to maintain an idle as I sit at the light or stop sign and it will actually shake the car a bit. I have noticed when it does do this the fan is on and it might be related to having the alternator trying to keep up with power draw.
I have noticed a loss of power when I am driving down the road it will cut out for maybe a half a second and come back. Usually doesn't happen more than once in one trip. I have brought it to the dealership multiple times to try and see if the can hunt down a problem but it keeps coming back with a clean bill of health. So my question is it something that is normal with diesel engines or is it something that I should take a further look at.
And while on the topic of diesel engines, my uncle a mechanic for diesel engines suggested that I spray a small amount of propane into the air intake to burn up sludge to keep the engine relatively clean. Need to get second opinion of that idea before I try it?
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My 01 VW Jetta with 181690 miles started having intermittent loss of power a year ago:
1) it never conks out;
2) it loses power on the highway at 70 or in town at 25;
3) engine is usually hot, about an hour into a trip, but now does it cold, too;
4) weather doesn't matter: dry or wet;
5) check engine light flashes while it happens
6) it feels like it's running out of gas but isn't.
Mechanics have tried the following: Note: every time I brought it in to be looked at, the symptoms above were happening :
1) March 2013: replaced coil pack and it ran fine until Sep;
2) Sep 2013: ran Dx on check engine light: "arching all over the place" so replace spark plug wires;
3) Dec 2013: got oil changed
4) Jan 2014: ran Dx and was told crack in piston;
5) Jan 2014: got second opinion and told wrong spark plugs were used (single electrode vs triple electrode)-replaced all spark plugs; got car inspected and had oil changed again as it was dirty;
6) Feb 2014 mechanic is stumped, but found an article about clean oil and changed the oil again. Oil was down almost a quart.
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Our 2000 Volkswagen Jetta will sometimes not start, no lights/power on dash or anywhere, battery seems dead. But when we hook up jumper cables (only to itself) and spark the wires by touching the loose ends together, power is restored and the car starts and runs normally.
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I have a 2012 VW GTI w/ a manual trans. It's a year old and has 15k miles. I bought it new from a VW dealer. Under hard acceleration, the RPMs jump about 500 RPMs for only a second or two and then drop down to where they were previously. During that time, it feels like the transmission slips out of gear and that I have no power. I've noticed this is gears 2-6.
Also, whenever I stop the car and put it into first gear, there's a loud thump that I can both hear and feel coming through the steering wheel and shift knob. It's been doing this since I bought the car. I brought it to VW and they said it's probably just because the gears are still spinning when I put it into first. But it still happens if I wait several seconds to put it into first.
Is this a sign of a bad transmission or one on its way out?
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Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe 6cyl automatic GLS w/ 170k on it - great car - never a problem until about 20k miles ago, I started experiencing a shudder (like driving over a washboarded road) at 38-42 mph. If I accelerate quickly through this mph range (from 3rd to 4th gear), I can avoid it. Similarly, if I downshift back into 3rd, accelerate through and then upshift to 4th again at about 45mph, I can avoid it. It happens at a much lesser extent around 55-60mph. It has been to a reputable transmission shop that doesn't think its a tranny issue. Its been 4 days at a good mechanic and they can't find the problem. Its not throwing any codes and no other part of the vehicle seems to be affected. It has new tires/alignment less than 5k ago. I have suggested several things (ignition coil, torque converter, throttle control sensors) and they have checked these and more and don't find the problem.
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I replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
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My 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
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Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
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While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
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