Jetta - Volkswagen :: 1999 - Choking Intermittently / No Set Pattern
Nov 30, 2012
I have a 1999 (new body style) VW Jetta GLS. 4cyl, 2L engine. It has been chocking intermittently. there is no set pattern of when it chokes. it chokes at speeds above and below 60mph. it usually chokes at constant speed; non acceleration...BUT it has choked while accelerating from stop. the heater is sometimes on and sometimes off...my point is there is no set pattern. THE THING IS....every time it chokes, there is a clicking at the dashboard. just one click per choke/jerking. the dash lights and the headlights do NOT dim or flash at all. THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT illuminated in the dash or any other warning light. the choking has not caused the car to stall or shut off....although there have been times when it almost did.the car has been tuned up...plugs, wires, fuel filter...timing belt and serpentine relatively new.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
My 05 Jetta TDI is intermittently making a rubbing/grinding noise. Not in stop and go traffic but when I come to a stop at a stop sign, but only just before I come to a complete stop, not as soon as I hit the brakes. The shop that put the brakes on (about 18000 miles ago) looked at pads, rotors and pedal but said it's all fine. Could it be the booster, abs, or something else completely?
View 3 Replies
I have a 99 VW Golf Wolsburg that I bought used a few years ago. I can't figure out what else I need to do to keep it running. I have done the following: oil changes, replaced spark plugs and wires, replaced crank shaft position sensor, replaced muffler, replaced distributor cap, ignition rotor, made repairs to coolant flange, and replaced the fuel pump wire conections. It has stalled out on me while driving and then won't start, leaving me stranded and having to be towed. Sometimes I come back to it and its just fine, and then does it again at a later time. Usually the CEL code is P0304/P0341. After another trip to the mechanic the CEL came on again with P0341.Now what?
View 4 Replies
My car shudders (headlights flicker, dash lights flicker, and car feels like it's choking/almost stalling) when I sit at an idle. Today it got super bad and the abs light flickered on and off when ever it would "shudder".
Live in so-cal where we just had heavy rain the last 2 days so I'm thinking it may be a wet ground somewhere but I'm not an electrician so I wouldn't know for sure.
Car info: 2.0 golf
Nothing done to it except straight pipe and intake...
View 2 Replies
My 14 year old Jetta, 119,000 mile will manually o into reverse ,but will not allow me to reverse the car? Could this be a clutch problem, or transmission. Is it worth repairing it, or purchasing, leasing car? Car also had new engine 3 years ago.
View 1 Replies
Car & History:- 99 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine, manual. 86,000 miles. Bought at 70,000 miles 3 years ago.- low oil warning once in 2013 maybe. since been using 5w-40 synthetic and used Ceratec additive once. Been doing regular oil changes.- replaced original fuel filter at 80,000 mi- gaskets have been going. Replaced thermostat and gasket. Replaced leaking oil cooler gasket. Valve cover gasket has been leaking for at least 1 year. Will replace.- Replaced timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and serpentine belt at 84,000 miles.- Flushed radiator at 84,000 miles.- All break rotors and pads at 80,000 miles- Replaced battery at 75,000 miles- Gas mileage: 26mpg
Problem:- the sound is similar to a tapping. This has been going on for a year or more.- very noticeable and loudest when cold- worse in the lower gears- diminishes once warmed up (5 minutes)- happens only under load - so 5th gear and letting off the gas pedal (coasting) it's not noticeable.- JUST TODAY: 20 degrees F, and wouldn't start on first try. Cranked for 6 seconds probably. Second time I turned the key, it started no problem.
Things of note:- By peaking behind the engine, it looks as though the oxygen sensor wire covering (pre cat) is getting a little frayed at one spot.- When I bought it I noticed new spark plug wires.
My thoughts:- Exhaust manifold gasket (to the head) is bad. So when it gets warm the bad gasket expands and stops the noise.- It's not the valve lifters because the noise goes away when warm and not really heard when gas pedal isn't engaged.- Replace the O2 sensor?
Attachments:- 3 audio files. I put my car under my hood and went for a drive. You can hear when I engage the clutch, the ticking sort of goes away. - Pictures of the frayed O2 sensor wire ...
View 19 Replies
Shifting from 2 to 3rd seems to hold too long (surging) in many instances. 1st to 2nd is always perfect and smooth. Also it seems to engine brake (rather than gliding) at times when I take my foot off the gas. This is not desirable.
I plan to change the ATF and filter soon. I don't expect this to work but it is a good to do it since it has not been done. VW says it is a life time fill. I am not getting a check engine light.
Is this something that can be modified with software using a VAG Com diagnostic system or similar? Is this indicative of some other issue?
1999 VW Jetta with 01m automatic...
View 14 Replies
My son has a 99 VW Jetta. His car won't start. We checked the battery and starter. Everything is working - lights, power windows, AC... The remote does not unlock or lock the doors. It has to be done manually (before it did). What may be going on?
View 3 Replies
Need to know if the 5.4 and 6.8 use the same bell housing pattern?
View 5 Replies
What is the spark plug pattern on the 460 n where the wires go on the cap. And also how to time it.
View 1 Replies
My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
View 3 Replies
I drive a 2000 VW Golf with 148K miles on it. One Saturday this summer my brake indicator light started lighting and beeping intermittently as I was driving. My brakes were operating fine so I did not read my owners manual until I reached my home. It indicated that I needed to have a qualified mechanic check it immediately but as it was almost 4 o'clock in the afternoon I couldn't find a mechanic in any gas station or garage. As I had a 200 mile drive to do the next day, I purchased brake fluid and carefully followed all of the directions for checking and filling my brake fluid.
However, when I took the cap off of the reservoir, the reservoir really looked fine and I was only able to add about a teaspoon max of brake fluid. However, when I tried driving the car, it seemed that the problem was solved as the brake indicator light did not come on again. Approximately 3 months later now the brake indicator light is intermittently going on again: about every other day. It goes on and then shortly after it goes off and then it doesn't come on again for a day or two.
Inasmuch as I added such a small amount of brake fluid last time I'm really not sure that the problem is actually with the fluid. I wondered if perhaps it was more of a vacuum problem or that by opening the reservoir some air escaped or something of that nature. I also wonder if possibly there's a component that's giving a false reading. At any rate, I'm a little white-haired old lady and there's a limit to what I can do on my car myself and I'm also a target whenever I go into a shop to get the most expensive diagnosis and fix. I'd like to go in to a shop with good information so that it doesn't become an expensive fishing expedition. What could be causing this?
View 3 Replies
VW New Beetle convertible 2004 ... Unlocking and locking my car via the remote largely stopped working (with my main key and the spare). I took the car to the repair shop, and after driving 20 min, the remote worked fine. They checked the computer to see if failures had registered (they had) and told me I'd likely have to replace the part in the door (pricey!) if the problem persisted. It has. The remote won't work at all, and then after I drive the car for a while, it works (as if it is somehow being recharged by driving.) I phoned my repair guy again, and he's mystified, cannot explain how driving for a period of time makes the key remote work.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1998 Passat turbo wagon. A couple of months ago, the engine began intermittently shuddering/stuttering. The car/steering wheel vibrate when accelerated. Acceleration is very slow. It may start when started, or just driving down the road. This can last a few minutes/block or several minutes/blocks. It disappears just as quickly as it begins. My garage ran engine analysis and nothing shows. Can't do anything till they can duplicate, and I can't cause it to happen. During the occurrence, tach is at 9000 and steady. I use high octane gas. Today, while stuttering the engine just quit twice while stopped. Car has 115,000 miles and otherwise is in excellent shape mechanically (regular oil changes, etc.). What's happening?
View 13 Replies
I have a 2006 volkswagen passat 3.6 litre v6- have had this car about a year now, 60,000 miles, no problems until recently. Last week I started noticing that when I am driving, with my foot on the gas, it would intermittently act as if it was decelerating at a rapid pace( will drop gears, is NOT a coast)- even when I floored it!! As soon as it stops responding to the throttle I can floor it, nothing will happen, then let the gas peddle go- then reapply gas and it will act perfectly normal- no flooding, no nothing!! I have been able to keep it floored( while it is decelerating) for about 30 seconds, and it seems to make no difference.
The only other problem that I have recently noticed was that my cruise control was acting only intermittently as well. Oh, also while all this is happening it isn't throwing any check engine, or error lights. I have taken it to the dealer, and also to another specialty mechanic( with master certified technicians) and neither seem to find any problem with the vehicle, the only code that they said was found was one to the mass air flow??, but they weren't sure that was actually the problem, as, of course, they cannot seem to replicate my problem, even though it is now happening quite a lot. I am worried about driving my car now as it is quite a hazard when it decelerates rapidly, and to top it all off, we were supposed to leave for a 2,000 mile road trip in 10 days.
View 7 Replies
I got a jetta 1.8t 2003 mk4 models.. Cars at 167km.. My cars oil light keeps going on when I am on low rpm, but when i come to a full stop & check my oil its basically at max.. And I don't know why it goes on? Ive changed my oil switch 4 times.. What can it be? Oil pump?? Or engine gone?
View 19 Replies
Symptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
View 5 Replies
2003 VW Jetta VR6: Headlights are not coming on...reliably, at least. Both halogen bulbs have been changed twice in the last 5 months. This is what I know of the headlight issue I'm having:
If the bright light indicator on my heads-up display is on when I start the car, I have no headlights. Switching between high and low beam in the car does not do anything when this bright indicator is stuck on...I have only found one fix...see number 2.
I get out of the car and tap on the front right headlight...the lights come on, but the front right is much brighter than the left. The lights are on the low-beam setting at this point. Only tapping the front light gets the lights to come on...high beams do work once I get the lights to turn on.
Once the lights are on, they do not reliably stay on...they might turn off while driving down the road. Pulling over and tapping on the front right light will get them to turn back on. (think this might be a loose wire issue? if so... i can't figure out where, or what needs to be done to fix it...)
Very odd thing... prior to starting the car, the bright light indicator is on...I pull up on emergency brake and it toggles the bright light indicator. I get out of the car and tap the light, lights are on, go back in the car and pull up on the emergency brake...the lights go out. Put the emergency brake down, the lights come back on.
I'm completely perplexed by this headlight issue.
View 6 Replies
2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
View 1 Replies
I was driving towards the freeway, I wasn't even on the freeway, I was taking back roads, and I turn on the AC, and the car turns off. So I coast to a stop, turn it back on drive a bit, car shuts off, I figured out it was the AC, drive back with the AC turned off, get back home show my dad what happened, car shuts off when tested. We test the AC a few times more, then after a while car just keeps running even with the AC on, but when on AC mode, it won't blow cold air. But the car no longer stalls with the AC turned on.
I recently replaced the ignition switch in my 1998 Jetta.
View 4 Replies
2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
View 3 Replies
