Yesterday, i bumped into the curb as I got home, and today when I went to work the car is pulling very hard to the right, and makes a squeeling sound when I get up to speed. The ball joint looks bad, but can that cause this problem?
View 4 RepliesI have an 05 Jetta Wagon GLS 2.0 which has been amazingly resilient. I had the 100k check up done recently and everything still came up positive; the battery conked out at 120k; and I just recently replaced the stock head and tail lights out of proactiveness rather than them going out. But, I think I've run into an issue now. When I drive through a puddle (or otherwise get water significantly on the underside of the car) if I am running the AC at the same time the engine makes a squealing noise as though a belt is slipping due to the water. I presume is the case that a belt is slipping--and I imagine that is part of the reason it idles noisier than when it was new, but before my wife and I make a budget I'd see whether there are other options. As it is there are 130k miles on the car, it's a 5spd standard, and other than oil changes and the checks at 30, 60, and then 100k no real service has been done.
View 4 RepliesMy girlfriend hit a cow head on with her 2006 caravan around 6months ago. The van was repaired, the cow wasn't as lucky. But every since the repair the van pulls hard to the right at any speed.
She had two alignments done with no correction; never following up for some reason with the mechanic. I just had it aligned and still had the same issue. I'm currently arranging for the vehicle to go back to the shop. (I can't believe I didn't have them test drive it) The alignment according the mechanic indicated that it was off slightly but he suggested that the tires were severely worn and could play into the pulling. He is 100% correct in that the tires are worn.
My concern is that the girlfriend wants new snow tires and I'm afraid to have her order new ones on without the steering issue being corrected. Considering how her current tires look. I read that I should swap the front tires to see if the direction changes if at all. Is there anything else to look for personally or to suggest with my mechanic? Why wouldn't a alignment pick up the severe pulling in the steering? Did the mechanic do a thorough job. I'm thinking not.
I have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
View 2 RepliesI had to raise the car a bit to clear the apr turbo outlet pipe. Raised a little too much and was hearing a clunking sound pulling into my driveway or speedbumps, etc. Contacted HR and they said the coilovers have an operating range and to lower them a bit. So.. i have about 3/8" of thread left on both fronts and my (not so scientific measuring method) fender/ground is 24" vs 26.25 stock as measured on a stock gti on my dealer lot. I still have a ton of thread to drop the car (about 1.5") as seen in the picture below. The issue i have is what the spring looks like. It rides fine in my day to day commute so its not noticeable but looking at it, it looks collapsed??
View 13 RepliesMy 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T just started doing this... I am not hearing the normal Turbo whistling noise when I give it a lot of gas, however I now hear a squealing noise. Sounds similar to a loose belt kinda whining/squealing. I do not hear this at any other time, only when accelerating quickly.
View 4 RepliesI have a '97 4.6L 4x4. I've had a few issues recently and am at wits end.
Symptoms: while pulling a boat at highway speed, the engine engine just died. After waiting about 20 minutes for a buddy to show up with a tow rope, it started up and ran fine...until I got home (10 miles). I parked and after approx 5 minutes of idling it died again. No CEL, and found no codes when scanned. 15 minutes pass, it fires up and works fine.
The next day, I hook the boat up again, dive to the lake, go fishing, drive home. Everything was fine. I unhook the boat and drive to work. Half way there my voltage gauge starts falling and 5 miles later all of my gauges end electric stuff dies. I drive two more miles to work and strange beep starts coming from under the dash on the passenger side (I think). After my 12 hour shift it starts and I start my 10 mile commute. Half way through I lose electrical power again but make it home. Now it doesn't have the juice to turn over.
Are these problems related, and what are the possible causes and cures? On an unrelated note, what's the easiest way to replace a rear leaf spring shackle?
My daughter has a 2006 Jetta and has recently experienced issues with acceleration. Merging on expressways and all of a sudden she can't seem to pick up speed and has to get over in the right lane because she is going so slow.
Been to 2 different shops, A neighborhood shop couldn't find anything wrong and neither can the Volkswagen dealer. No Error codes on the computer accept Knock Sensor. She's afraid to drive the car!
My 2000, F150, 4X4, 4.6V8, five speed manual idles great and sounds great and throwing no codes. It doesn't have a lot of zip, but it really never has, at least since I bought it at almost 60K miles.
I've never towed much of anything with it until recently. I started towing a 6 1/2' X 10' trailer with a 1,600 pound side by side or a 1,300 pound mower with a large grass collector. Both of these loads have lots of wind resistance.
The lack of power is REALLY showing up pulling these loads at highway speed. Sometimes, even on pretty flat ground, the cruise control will hold the throttle on the floor at 60 or 65 MPH and it can't pick up speed.
I have maintained the truck well, but there is something amiss. It is due a fuel filter, so I will change that. I've never replaced the O2 sensors, so I'm considering replacing the front ones.
I am thinking about using a vacuum gauge to see if I can detect plugged cats. As I recall, there are two on each bank. I have a scanner, so I was thinking about monitoring front and rear O2 sensors and see if I can get the 100 degree difference that indicates a properly functioning converter.
I'm thinking of cleaning the throttle body.
Something else that is odd about this truck. Being a stick shift, it does not want to go all the way back down to idle speed unless the vehicle is stopped. For illustration of what I'm saying, you can kick the transmission in neutral and coast, and it will stay above idle speed until the vehicle stops, THEN it will idle down normally. I have always thought that this might be because so few manual transmission trucks were built that this is something in the chip for an automatic that they didn't take out for the manual.
My 2004 VW jetta has 139k on it. Whenever I come to a hard-ish stop or almost-stop, the transmission downshifts to 1st and won't get out of it unless i play with the tiptronic mode selector and coax it to upshift. it shifts well and works well in gingerly driving other than in this circumstance. i took it to a shop and they say (as they always do) it needs a new tranny. I'm wondering out loud if there is some kind of mounting instability issue that could explain this. This is definitely a case of needing a new transmission. I have read a bunch about solenoids being the culprit in general shifting problems, but not this exact set of symptoms and circumstances.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 vw Jetta and it runs great. It started out just when I would get gas the car wouldn't start I would have to turn the key and put my foot on the gas for it to start (starts pretty much the first time I do this) but recently it has done this three random times when I didn't fill up. Also my check engine light is on. What this problem could be?
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
View 2 RepliesLong time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
View 5 RepliesSo I haven't driven my 2003 Jetta in about a week and a half. Today when I started it it struggled to start, and then at a stop light while my foot was on the brake it was jumping/stuttering. it continued when I moved at 5 mph, but did not happen while driving at higher speeds (15 mph) and went away when j shifted from drive to park. I got on the highway and drove for 15 minutes with no issues, and now the problem is gone. Is this a sign of a failing part?
The spark plugs and wires were replaced 6 months ago. I had them changed because the car has always had a small intermittent rough idle that would sometimes happen when stopped and at low parking lot speeds, but it's never been so noticeable. it was really lunging this time
I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
I was driving on the highway in my 2001 jetta (332000 km) on the cruise control yesterday and suddenly it just started slowing down and stopped. Putting my feet in the gas did nothing . Before stopping completely the battery light came on. After won't start anymore, just making a sound like it is trying but turn in the butter. To be honest the check engine has been on for a while but we are pretty sure that is the glow plugs because it is a recurrent problem... Nothing else light up and there was no sound or smoke.
View 3 Repliesa 2011 jetta. brake pedal is hard no pumping action. The car show check engine. The idle is not smooth.
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn on my fan for the AC or vent or heat, it works just fine on the first and second settings. When I move the fan speed to the third and last speed, I hear this sound that sounds like the blower fan is hitting something. I turn the speed back to the lower two settings and noise goes away. Sometimes I turn it back to the higher settings and the noise actually will go away but most of the time the noise is there.
I pulled the blower motor out yesterday and set it to where I can turn it on while out of the compartment and I didn't really notice a noise. I wonder if the noise is there but I am just not hearing it since it is not enclosed in the compartment? I also noticed there is a crack in the fan where it mounts to the shaft starting at the shaft and extending out one direction and also 180 degrees the other direction. Thoughts on if the motor is bad or just the fan? Or even something else that I may not be seeing?
What happened to my 02 mk4 Jetta after start up and engine failure.
I started the engine, and noticed a high squealing sound just like a loose fan belt, as I backed out my driveway the Battery light came on and engine died, when I tried to re-start the engine it doesn't make any cranking sound just a whirring sound.
I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
I have been having a problem with an oil leak around this sensor port in my Jetta, I'm not really sure which sensor this is. The sensor itself is covered with a rubber hood that covers the connector, when I start the engine, it blows this hood back, revealing the blue plastic of the sensor.
I have a 1997 VW Jetta GT with the 2.0 liter A series gasoline engine. ,