Jeep - Wrangler :: 2005 - Won't Start - Battery?
May 31, 2016
I tried starting my 2005 Jeep Wrangler yesterday and there wasn't enough charge to get it started. I got a few slow revolutions and that was it. I gave it a jump and it started fine. Drove it for an hour or so and then went to restart it 3 hours after I shut it off and it was dead again. Another jump and I drove it for an hour (home). I was able to start it a few hours after that on its own, though it struggled to a bit.
Tried again this morning and it was dead from sitting overnight. A few other bits of info:
With the key in the ignition, the charge indicator is hovering just above 9V (it is a 12V battery) before I try to start it. When engine is running after start, it jumps to around 12V.
I am pretty sure I didn't leave the lights on or door open overnight. I haven't noticed the engine struggling to start leading up to the dead battery.
After I jumped it again this morning, it seems to be idling very low. In fact, the engine shutoff when I let it idle in neutral with my foot off the gas for a few seconds.
When I got in the Jeep this morning before trying to start it, it had enough charge for the radio and dashboard. When I turn on the lights/highbeams it struggled and the high beam indicator on the dashboard (blue light) was flashing. Battery is not too old. I don't have the receipt with me, but I think I bought a new one 3-4 years ago. The +/- connections are clean with no corrosion. I didn't look too closely, but I didn't notice any obvious connection issues from the battery leading into other components.
I'll probably go buy another battery, but wanted to check with the experts out there to see if there is anything else I should be checking. If I do get another battery
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2 days after replacing a weak battery during a cold snap the engine light came on. 2 days prior to replacement the gas cap warning and engine light came on, but immediately after the installation both warnings went off. Only the engine light came back on 2 days later. I have driven the Jeep 3 times since for about 20 miles total. Total mileage, 18,200. What the cause may be and how to proceed?
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Recently had a problem with my automatic jeep wrangler where it stopped shifting out of park and drive etc.. the lever would just slide between the different options freely and I wouldn't hear any sort of click. I eventually found that this was because a piece under my car had broken (Some sort of mechanism that pulled another piece when you shifted). Currently I've been fixing this problem by taping the two pieces together, but that never holds for too long and I've been wondering if it would be possible to just gorilla glue (or any glue for that matter) the two pieces together for a more permanent fix? Or am I honestly just stuck coughing up the dough to replace the broken part?
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Over the past year or so I have noticed that when I press the clutch on my 1985 CJ-7 258 that the headlights would get brighter. This happens when driving or just sitting at an idle. This happens only after you press the clutch enough to take up the usual 1/2-1 inch of play in the clutch pedal. When you release the pedal, the lights dim slightly. Another thing that may be related---over the past few months, it has been a bit sluggish to start until, finally, it wouldn't start at all. I looked at the battery and the cable connector on the negative battery pole is partially melted and ran down onto the top of the battery. What the problem might be? I'd hate to get a new battery and just have the same thing happen again.
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I own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
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I have a 85 cj7 with a 258 straight 6 and recently when I have been refilling the gas tank she won't start right away and I end up waiting 1 to 2 hours before she will start up and then she drives fine until you have to put more gas and the cycle happens all over again. What the problem could be?
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I have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Sport with a six-speed manual trans and an in-line 4.0 6-cyl engine. I discovered a month or so ago a strange rattling sound coming from, what sounded like, the front passenger wheel area. It would occur when I slowed down to 10mph or slower or when coming to a complete stop, or when starting out from a stop, until surpassing the 10-12mph mark. The rattle is audible both inside and outside the vehicle. It's a low-pitched sound like an "aaaaaahhhh" you make when opening wide for the doctor to look down your throat, only with a metallic rattle thrown in. Best way I know to describe it is a voice saying "aaaaahhhhh" through the back of a fan.
I recently discovered, when I took it in for an oil change and tire rotation, that my front tires were wearing much faster than the backs and had a very noticeable "choppiness" to the tread. I have since installed new shock absorbers on both sides of the front suspension in hopes that would even the ride out for the front and eliminate the choppy tire wear. I originally thought that the tire wear and the rattle were related, but I took it to a mechanic who raised the front end and hand-spun both front tires and they made no audible sounds while spinning.
The mechanic said he believes that the rattle is coming from the front differential. Now, I am no pro mechanic, but I am not afraid to tackle a car repair job as long as I know I have the tools I need at hand to properly complete the job. First of all, does the differential sound like a good place to look? There's no change in the rattle when applying or releasing the clutch and it shifts smoothly, so I am pretty certain it's not in the transmission. Is the differential something that I could remove the cover and adequately diagnose a problem on my own? Just don't have funds available for a large car repair bill, so I am looking at trying to tackle the issue myself.
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Video of Noise: [URL] .....
I am getting the above noise on startup, it goes away after 5ish minutes. It isn't exactly cold out. So I don't think its the oil viscosity. Its not a bad oil filter flow back valve, and its way longer than the oil lifters should make noises. I don't think it is a cracked manifold, I think the noise would be different.
Jeep wrangler 2005. 4.0L, ~99k Miles
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Have replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
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So last week something happened that I've never had happen before. I was dropping my daughter off at school and I noticed that my dash lights weren't on. My headlights still worked and the blinkers did to.
When I got home and parked it, I checked out all the fuses. There was a 20 amp fuse that was blown, so I replaced it and then checked the relays under the hood. I turned on the key to check the dash lights and they still didn't work. The 20 amp fuse blew again, so I replaced it again. Now the dash lights work again.
However, when I tried to start it, it would turn over, but the fuel pump isn't turning on.
Long story short, I've replaced all 4 relays under the hood, installed a new fuel pump and also replaced some bulbs in my taillights and sides over the front tires. It turns over when I try to start it, but the fuel pump still isn't "kicking" on and it won't start. I feel like somehow, power isn't getting to the fuel pump.
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I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler (4 cylinder) that seems to be having a fuel problem.... about a month ago, it started lurching, having a hard time starting, it would lose power on drives and once or twice it has stalled on me while I'm driving on the freeway. I've had to restart my car going 60 mph... if I feel it lurching or surging, I have been able to keep the car going by shifting into a lower gear or taking my foot off the gas.
I just took it into the dealership and spent 1300 to get it diagnosed and fixed. I got a new timing belt, and a whole bunch of other stuff and on the way out, it stalled at the first stop light. Although it seems to be running better, it obviously didn't fix the issue. I took it right back and now they are going to have me bring it back on Monday to 'try to figure it out’. Where should I tell them to look?
Oh, and - I had to get a short fixed from the ignition key (I was able to pull the key out while the car was running) and they fixed it. But now, I can't get any reception on my radio...
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
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when the jeep warms up the transmission wont shift out of second gear.it is an automatic.had solenoid packs replaced and no mechanic has an idea.external cooler has been mentioned along with replacing pcm.
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I've been researching and trying to find an answer to the "death wobble" on my 2005 Jeep Wrangler. I've had it in to the dealer and two other repair centers and no one can identify the culprit, other than to say we can change out each piece of the front end a part at a time to see if that will solve the problem. I could buy a new Wrangler for that. I constantly have the tire balanced or checked for balance. The front and rear shocks have been inspected. The bushings in the front end have been inspected. The wobble is very subtle from 40-45ish. At about 52mph it is the worst. Above 55 and it returns to almost nothing. Braking does not increase the wobble. I've not modified anything on the vehicle. From what I've read on blogs this is a common issue for the Wrangler starting somewhere around 2000.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited w/ 33k miles on it...4.0 engine. Have had it a little over a year. Last Fall, it started having issues whenever we had a lot of rain. Would not crank at all. Replaced the battery and clutch switch, which seems to worked, but is now doing it again. I turn the key and all of the lights come on, but there is not even a click. If I coast it off and pop the clutch, it starts right up. Once it dries out, will start w/ the key without an issue. Have an appt w/ the dealer, but they cannot get to it until Thursday, but I have to drive to work until then.
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