I recently purchased a 2004 Jeep wrangler Sahara. In retrospect, I probably should have inspected it more closely. The underside, including the sides of the engine block (below the heads, etc.) have a lot of rust. With little effort I can flake off pieces as thick as a quarter for example. How concerned I should be and what I need to do???
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 jeep wrangler x 6 cyl pings upon acceleration. 62000 miles.
View 6 Replies2 days after replacing a weak battery during a cold snap the engine light came on. 2 days prior to replacement the gas cap warning and engine light came on, but immediately after the installation both warnings went off. Only the engine light came back on 2 days later. I have driven the Jeep 3 times since for about 20 miles total. Total mileage, 18,200. What the cause may be and how to proceed?
View 2 RepliesI own a jeep wrangler with a 7.2 hemi engine. Manual transmission. When driving and want to stop on a traffic light. The rpm will stay at 2000 rpm until complete stop and then it goes down to 850 rpm.
View 19 RepliesThe engine was running rough when it hit 2K RPM only. above and below it is fine. replaced the injectors/O2 sensor and it ran well for a couple of months but it is doing it again. when engine hits 2K rpm it will sputter and run rough. engine light gives me code 171 engine running rich or lean. What else to look at..
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler, manual transmission, 6-cylinder. I accidentally let the battery die in September. I got a jump, and it was fine until we got a cold snap. (We live in NJ.) On the first cold day (October), the battery was dead again. The battery is about 4 years old. I got it jumped, and it was fine, but the CE light came on. I have been dealing with the CE light and generally lousy engine performance ever since. (The car is lurching and hiccuping.) I have had it to the shop four times since the initial dead battery in September.
I bring it to the shop, they hook it up to the computer, and each time it indicates a sensor problem. They have replaced the 02 sensor, the TPS sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced several spark plugs, and swapped out the clockspring. It has been to the shop four times in the past 5 weeks. I even switched mechanics after the first one said he was going to replace the 02 sensor and I looked at my records and pointed out that he had already done that back in June. (At that point, they said "Oh"" and tried replacing the TPS sensor.) The 2nd mechanic also got the TPS sensor code and I told him that the previous mechanic had already replaced that one, as well.
He went to a discussion website for mechanics and discovered a "design flaw" that a majority of mechanics said could be rectified by replacing the clockspring. So he tried that. Every time one of these guys does something, the CE light goes off and they test-drive it and it seems fine. Then I come to pick it up, after hours, hours later, when the car has completely cooled off, and the CE light is back on. Yesterday I picked it up and the CE light was on but at least it was running better. Then I drove it 90 miles and it was hiccuping badly by the end of the trip. Also, I filled up my gas tank at the beginning of the trip, and the tank is now between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Horrible mileage. My husband made the same trip in a different car, also a Jeep, and also filled up at the beginning, and his tank is more than 3/4 full.
I know I can take it to Auto Zone and get the code, but I'm not hopeful that the code will say anything other than what it has already said, i.e. O2 or TPS sensor.
I have a 97 Wrangler 4 liter that lurches violently. It runs fine until the engine is warmed up. After the engine warms up it it begins lurching. When I put the clutch in, the lurching stops. When I let the clutch out, it is okay for 1-2 seconds (i can get power and advance the vehicle), then I put the clutch in and repeat that process. When I give it a little gas with the clutch in, the engine runs smooth - so it doesn't appear to be a gas problem. When I give it gas with the clutch out it lurches violently.
After pulling it into my garage I let it idle to about 5 minutes. It idles rough and is about to stall, when it apparently shoots a little more gas preventing it from stalling.The check engine light has come on. I took it to my local mechanic who cannot find the problem. The "computer code" indicates a faulty oxygen sensor. He also checked the fuel pressure which is okay.It has 120K miles and otherwise has been a great vehicle. It has been well maintained.
I've got a 2004 Jeep Wrangler SE 5-speed with 83,000 miles on the 2.4l PowerTech engine in it, and it's making a very strange noise that I can't pinpoint.
So first, the noise itself. It sounds like a metallic tapping or ratcheting, like the sound of raising of a large chain hoist. Fairly high-pitched, audible inside and out. Not incredibly loud (I have to point it out to passengers) but loud enough to bother the hell out of me. The closest I can come with location is "somewhere under the hood."
However, the noise is only present under certain conditions:1. The transmission must be in gear. Forward or reverse doesn't matter. Revving engine at idle does not produce the noise.2. The transmission must be under load, i.e. when accelerating or releasing the clutch in 1st to begin driving. Letting off the gas stops the noise.3. The noise only exists somewhere between 1k and 2.5k rpms. Application of throttle at any road speed in any gear with the engine in that RPM range produces the noise. 4. The frequency of the tapping increases with engine speed. 5. Ambient temperature appears to have no effect, but as engine temperature increases the noise tends to disappear. Not always, though, as it shows up sometimes when the engine is completely up to operating temperature. 6. I don't notice any kind of performance issues related to the noise. Power's normal (for a 2.4l Chrysler 4-banger, that is) and gas mileage is within the EPA estimates.
Things I've investigated:1. I'm pretty sure it's not lifter noise. A bottle of Seafoam made it run better, but the noise persists. 2. I've checked the catalytic converter heat shield. It's on tight. I found the flange where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe was a bit loose, but tightening it down didn't eliminate the noise. Getting underneath and shaking the hell out of every component of the exhaust system I can reach produces no results.3. Engine mounts show normal wear. Transmission mount appears fine. 4. No check engine light, and all gauges read normal. Hooked up a code reader for fun and it came back with nothing.
As the noise only shows up while driving, I can't just crawl under there and poke around. The best I can do while driving is feel for related vibration, which gives me nothing. Whatever causing it, it's not transferring up through the stick.
In the may-or-may-not-be-related category, I've got a bit of oil consumption and a clunky transmission, but according to the various Jeep forums I've found, those seem to be fairly normal.
We got some snow the other day, and as I cleared it off I allowed the car to warm up for about 20 minutes. When I got in and drove it, the noise was greatly reduced. Not gone, but barely perceptible.
I spent a couple hours on YouTube the other day, trying to compare my noise to videos of other Jeeps with drivetrain issues, and found nothing even close to similar. Whatever's making this noise, it's not common.
I own a 2003 Jeep Wrangler and for the past 4 months. I have had a squeal coming from the right side front of the engine when coming off the gas. However when I get below 25mph while slowing to a complete stop the sound goes away in most cases. My mechanic has replace the tension pulley along the the serpentine belt and the sound still persists...
View 5 RepliesI am having a “Check Engine” light problem on a stock 06, 4 cylinder Jeep Wrangler with manual transmission. A local highly regarded independent mechanic has had it in his shop 3 or 4 times for more than a day each time. On the first visit he replaced a purge solenoid valve and reset the light. It stayed off for more than 400 miles and then relit. He went over it and checked the wires and connections and reset the light. Again it stayed off for some time and then relit. He has checked the Jeep site.
After the last visit he suggested I drive it and see if it would reset itself as it had been doing in the past. It did reset itself twice but it only stayed off for 10 miles the first time and 2 the second. The code indicates an electrical problem and he is now planning to drop the fuel tank and check the wires and sensors there. The next step may be an ECM transplant. This is only an emission system problem and the mechanic says it is OK to drive. We do not have emission inspections here. How important is it to fix the problem?
2003 Jeep Wrangler LOUD squeal when coming off the accelerator. I've had changed the Tension Pulley, The Belt, Checked the Power Steering, Removed the belt from the AC unit..smaller belt now....Tested the Alternator, it's working like a champ. I have a 4.0L 6 Cylinder. My mechanic wants to check the intake gasket and another intake which he spoke of and I can't remember at the moment however with no guarantees these or one of the two could be the problem. He expects it to be a 5 hour job. The sound seems to be generated from the lower backside of the engine...
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
View 1 RepliesJeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
View 5 RepliesVehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
View 15 RepliesI own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
View 2 RepliesI have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
View 5 RepliesWe have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
when the jeep warms up the transmission wont shift out of second gear.it is an automatic.had solenoid packs replaced and no mechanic has an idea.external cooler has been mentioned along with replacing pcm.
View 2 RepliesI've been researching and trying to find an answer to the "death wobble" on my 2005 Jeep Wrangler. I've had it in to the dealer and two other repair centers and no one can identify the culprit, other than to say we can change out each piece of the front end a part at a time to see if that will solve the problem. I could buy a new Wrangler for that. I constantly have the tire balanced or checked for balance. The front and rear shocks have been inspected. The bushings in the front end have been inspected. The wobble is very subtle from 40-45ish. At about 52mph it is the worst. Above 55 and it returns to almost nothing. Braking does not increase the wobble. I've not modified anything on the vehicle. From what I've read on blogs this is a common issue for the Wrangler starting somewhere around 2000.
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