I own a 2003 Jeep Wrangler and for the past 4 months. I have had a squeal coming from the right side front of the engine when coming off the gas. However when I get below 25mph while slowing to a complete stop the sound goes away in most cases. My mechanic has replace the tension pulley along the the serpentine belt and the sound still persists...
View 5 Replies2003 Jeep Wrangler LOUD squeal when coming off the accelerator. I've had changed the Tension Pulley, The Belt, Checked the Power Steering, Removed the belt from the AC unit..smaller belt now....Tested the Alternator, it's working like a champ. I have a 4.0L 6 Cylinder. My mechanic wants to check the intake gasket and another intake which he spoke of and I can't remember at the moment however with no guarantees these or one of the two could be the problem. He expects it to be a 5 hour job. The sound seems to be generated from the lower backside of the engine...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Sport with just over 58000 miles. It has a stock 4.0L in-line 6 cylinder with a manual 6-speed transmission. No lift kits or suspension mods. I have been noticing a strange rattle coming from up under the front end when I am cruising through parking lots or coming to a stop at an intersection. When I get down to around 10-15mph the rattle becomes audible and you can feel it in the floorboardYou just feel it. It doesn't matter if the clutch is pushed in or not. When accelerating or cruising at highway speeds (anything 20mph or up) the rattle goes away. Only when decelerating or coming to a rolling stop.
View 5 RepliesI get a noise from behind the radio of my Jeep wrangler 2003 that sounds like a vibrating spring that is hitting metal. I get it in the lower "harmonics" you get as you just shift into a lower gear. It doesn't last long and goes away as you rev up in the gear.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Sport with a six-speed manual trans and an in-line 4.0 6-cyl engine. I discovered a month or so ago a strange rattling sound coming from, what sounded like, the front passenger wheel area. It would occur when I slowed down to 10mph or slower or when coming to a complete stop, or when starting out from a stop, until surpassing the 10-12mph mark. The rattle is audible both inside and outside the vehicle. It's a low-pitched sound like an "aaaaaahhhh" you make when opening wide for the doctor to look down your throat, only with a metallic rattle thrown in. Best way I know to describe it is a voice saying "aaaaahhhhh" through the back of a fan.
I recently discovered, when I took it in for an oil change and tire rotation, that my front tires were wearing much faster than the backs and had a very noticeable "choppiness" to the tread. I have since installed new shock absorbers on both sides of the front suspension in hopes that would even the ride out for the front and eliminate the choppy tire wear. I originally thought that the tire wear and the rattle were related, but I took it to a mechanic who raised the front end and hand-spun both front tires and they made no audible sounds while spinning.
The mechanic said he believes that the rattle is coming from the front differential. Now, I am no pro mechanic, but I am not afraid to tackle a car repair job as long as I know I have the tools I need at hand to properly complete the job. First of all, does the differential sound like a good place to look? There's no change in the rattle when applying or releasing the clutch and it shifts smoothly, so I am pretty certain it's not in the transmission. Is the differential something that I could remove the cover and adequately diagnose a problem on my own? Just don't have funds available for a large car repair bill, so I am looking at trying to tackle the issue myself.
There is a whistling noise that is coming from under the hood of my Jeep. It is more noticeable on cold days. It temporarily disappears when my foot is on the accelerator or after I have been idling at a stop sign for 30 seconds. The noise starts again when I start driving.
View 6 RepliesMy Jeep blinker will sometime blink quickly (double or triple the normal)and will not blink in the front left marker. Is this a socket problem or a dust/dirt issue?
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 jeep wrangler x 6 cyl pings upon acceleration. 62000 miles.
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased a 2004 Jeep wrangler Sahara. In retrospect, I probably should have inspected it more closely. The underside, including the sides of the engine block (below the heads, etc.) have a lot of rust. With little effort I can flake off pieces as thick as a quarter for example. How concerned I should be and what I need to do???
View 5 Replies2 days after replacing a weak battery during a cold snap the engine light came on. 2 days prior to replacement the gas cap warning and engine light came on, but immediately after the installation both warnings went off. Only the engine light came back on 2 days later. I have driven the Jeep 3 times since for about 20 miles total. Total mileage, 18,200. What the cause may be and how to proceed?
View 2 RepliesI own a jeep wrangler with a 7.2 hemi engine. Manual transmission. When driving and want to stop on a traffic light. The rpm will stay at 2000 rpm until complete stop and then it goes down to 850 rpm.
View 19 RepliesThe engine was running rough when it hit 2K RPM only. above and below it is fine. replaced the injectors/O2 sensor and it ran well for a couple of months but it is doing it again. when engine hits 2K rpm it will sputter and run rough. engine light gives me code 171 engine running rich or lean. What else to look at..
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler, manual transmission, 6-cylinder. I accidentally let the battery die in September. I got a jump, and it was fine until we got a cold snap. (We live in NJ.) On the first cold day (October), the battery was dead again. The battery is about 4 years old. I got it jumped, and it was fine, but the CE light came on. I have been dealing with the CE light and generally lousy engine performance ever since. (The car is lurching and hiccuping.) I have had it to the shop four times since the initial dead battery in September.
I bring it to the shop, they hook it up to the computer, and each time it indicates a sensor problem. They have replaced the 02 sensor, the TPS sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced several spark plugs, and swapped out the clockspring. It has been to the shop four times in the past 5 weeks. I even switched mechanics after the first one said he was going to replace the 02 sensor and I looked at my records and pointed out that he had already done that back in June. (At that point, they said "Oh"" and tried replacing the TPS sensor.) The 2nd mechanic also got the TPS sensor code and I told him that the previous mechanic had already replaced that one, as well.
He went to a discussion website for mechanics and discovered a "design flaw" that a majority of mechanics said could be rectified by replacing the clockspring. So he tried that. Every time one of these guys does something, the CE light goes off and they test-drive it and it seems fine. Then I come to pick it up, after hours, hours later, when the car has completely cooled off, and the CE light is back on. Yesterday I picked it up and the CE light was on but at least it was running better. Then I drove it 90 miles and it was hiccuping badly by the end of the trip. Also, I filled up my gas tank at the beginning of the trip, and the tank is now between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Horrible mileage. My husband made the same trip in a different car, also a Jeep, and also filled up at the beginning, and his tank is more than 3/4 full.
I know I can take it to Auto Zone and get the code, but I'm not hopeful that the code will say anything other than what it has already said, i.e. O2 or TPS sensor.
I have a 97 Wrangler 4 liter that lurches violently. It runs fine until the engine is warmed up. After the engine warms up it it begins lurching. When I put the clutch in, the lurching stops. When I let the clutch out, it is okay for 1-2 seconds (i can get power and advance the vehicle), then I put the clutch in and repeat that process. When I give it a little gas with the clutch in, the engine runs smooth - so it doesn't appear to be a gas problem. When I give it gas with the clutch out it lurches violently.
After pulling it into my garage I let it idle to about 5 minutes. It idles rough and is about to stall, when it apparently shoots a little more gas preventing it from stalling.The check engine light has come on. I took it to my local mechanic who cannot find the problem. The "computer code" indicates a faulty oxygen sensor. He also checked the fuel pressure which is okay.It has 120K miles and otherwise has been a great vehicle. It has been well maintained.
I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler (4 cylinder) that seems to be having a fuel problem.... about a month ago, it started lurching, having a hard time starting, it would lose power on drives and once or twice it has stalled on me while I'm driving on the freeway. I've had to restart my car going 60 mph... if I feel it lurching or surging, I have been able to keep the car going by shifting into a lower gear or taking my foot off the gas.
I just took it into the dealership and spent 1300 to get it diagnosed and fixed. I got a new timing belt, and a whole bunch of other stuff and on the way out, it stalled at the first stop light. Although it seems to be running better, it obviously didn't fix the issue. I took it right back and now they are going to have me bring it back on Monday to 'try to figure it out’. Where should I tell them to look?
Oh, and - I had to get a short fixed from the ignition key (I was able to pull the key out while the car was running) and they fixed it. But now, I can't get any reception on my radio...
I am having a “Check Engine” light problem on a stock 06, 4 cylinder Jeep Wrangler with manual transmission. A local highly regarded independent mechanic has had it in his shop 3 or 4 times for more than a day each time. On the first visit he replaced a purge solenoid valve and reset the light. It stayed off for more than 400 miles and then relit. He went over it and checked the wires and connections and reset the light. Again it stayed off for some time and then relit. He has checked the Jeep site.
After the last visit he suggested I drive it and see if it would reset itself as it had been doing in the past. It did reset itself twice but it only stayed off for 10 miles the first time and 2 the second. The code indicates an electrical problem and he is now planning to drop the fuel tank and check the wires and sensors there. The next step may be an ECM transplant. This is only an emission system problem and the mechanic says it is OK to drive. We do not have emission inspections here. How important is it to fix the problem?
2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Civic coupe (EX) that makes a loud squeal. It starts when I just get going in the car, maybe two or three minutes into the drive. The squeal seems to come from the engine, and lasts for 15 to 30 seconds, before abruptly stopping. I seem to think its a belt, but not sure why its doing it or how to stop it.
View 5 RepliesOk, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
View 1 RepliesI recently had new front oem rotors and pads installed on my 13 GS F Sport rwd and after a few hours of driving the loud squeal coming from the front was very embarrassing. I'm ready to pull whatever hairs on my head I have left. When I'm coming to a stop I hear it. If I'm braking lightly I hear it. If I reverse I hear it. I had the same problem prior to replacing the rotors and pads and felt that it was being caused by not having my rotors resurfaced prior to installing the last set of pads. Now, I have new everything and I have the same problem. I've already spent so much on the front brakes and I can't stand having an expensive car that sounds like a cheap car.
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