Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
View 4 RepliesFor the first ten minutes after my car is started (until it warms up), the oil gauge drops to 0 while accelerating. When I take my foot off the gas, it goes back up. After the car is warm, the gauge works fine and unless the car cools completely down, it gives me no more trouble until the next morning. We have tried:
1. Changing the sending unit (twice);
2. Changing the oil;
3. Working on the electrical contacts;
4. Cleaning all of the parts around it.
I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
View 5 RepliesThe engine was running rough when it hit 2K RPM only. above and below it is fine. replaced the injectors/O2 sensor and it ran well for a couple of months but it is doing it again. when engine hits 2K rpm it will sputter and run rough. engine light gives me code 171 engine running rich or lean. What else to look at..
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Jeep Wranger (4cl) automatic that has hated highways. When i drive on the highway, after about 4 hrs, my jeep decides to slip into neutral. So i initially have to hit the gas pedal to make it down shift and then it seems okay but of course after about an hour it does the same thing. Hence a long ride becomes much longer. I usually pull off and let it the engine cool down and that seems to work and i can resume the highway once again. I have had the transmission looked at and a transmission flush done. I have been told that i do not need a transmission but the mechanic has no idea why this occurs.
View 3 RepliesI inherited a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from my late father and it seems like whenever the temperature overnight drops below a certain level, in the morning the low tire pressure light pops on. I never encountered this problem with any other car I owned, is this something inherent to SUV's with all wheel drive?
View 7 RepliesI have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
I have a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder that has 79,896 miles on it. I have done a lot of warranty repair to the car (transmission, radiator, oil leaks and other fun stuff). My latest problem is when the car is running for more that 20 minutes and I slow down or press on the brakes my oil pressure gauge drops to L. I have taken it to two dealers one -- said that the 'pressure was in normal range" and could not do a thing and the other fixed a leak in the oil cooler and replaced the seals behind the manifold. This still has not fixed the problem. At this point they feel there is nothing else they can do but this is not normal.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
My oil pressure gauge jumps all over the place when I get over 3000 rpms. At lower rpms it is in the normal range and the engine sounds ok. How can I tell if this is the oil pump or the sending unit or the gauge? This is a 1980 CJ5 with a 151ci 4 cylinder.
View 2 Replies95 jeep cherokee. My oil pressure gauge sometimes jumps up to 80lbs or bobs between 40 and 80lbs. Could this be anything other than sensor or gauge itself?
View 12 RepliesMy '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
View 16 RepliesI have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1992 jeep Cherokee sport that is giving me quite a headache & it seems to be getting worse. My jeep has 272,000 miles on it. Bought it used almost 5 yrs ago. Anyways, starting back in april when it started to get warm here in Pennsylvania, it started to do this thing where you'd be driving it at 45mph, the tac meter (thing that reads RPM) starting to bounce up n' down from 800rpm to roughly 1500rpm. It would bounce like that for every 2 secs while driving. Now, when i went to slow down to roughly 35mph & slower then that, it would begin to spit, sputter, jerk, & carry on & it shut off on me once!
It seemed like it got a mind of it's own too. When I come to a stop, it seems like it wants to give it more gas!!! There are acouple of times that I almost didn't get stopped & almost rear ended a couple of cars!! When you go to park it & let it run, it sounds like someone is pushing down on the gas & letting off of it every 3 secs. Again, it would go from 0rpm to 1200rpm then keep doing that til you shut it off. If you shut it off & leave it set for about an hr then, it'll run just fine for about an hr or so & then, begin to mess up!!
So far, I've changed, the plugs, plug wires, dist cap/rotor, 02 sensor, swapped a MAP sensor off of my moms jeep, (no change there) The last thing I just bought was a Ignition coil. Mine had cracks in it so, I thought it might of been that. NOPE!!! Still messes up. It seems like the hotter it gets outside, the quicker it wants to mess up. I've even got a can of carb cleaner & sprayed every vac line/hose that I can find. No change!!
One more thing. On cold/cool mornings, it'll start up & run just fine even with the bad coil that was on there.. No problems.
My 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS has had 0 problems. It has about 132K on it, but it's still awesome.
I was stuck in some nasty traffic the other day in 95 degree NC weather, and was idling for about 15 minutes with the AC on. Out of nowhere, it felt like my AC got warm and I saw my coolant temp gauge spike from just under midway to 3/4 of the way. Unsettling.
As soon as I got on the gas and drove for about 5-10 seconds, it dropped precipitously back to normal. I was able to recreate this behavior once I got home. Normal driving results in normal temperature. Both fans appear to running.
I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
View 1 RepliesThis weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
View 5 RepliesVehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC w/170K miles. When engine heats up, oil pressure light comes on, but only when RPM fall below 1500 or at idle. There is a burnt smell sometimes after driving the car. I do not see froth or coolant in the oil. Car burns a little oil, but no more than it has been for the last 50K miles. Just had oil and filter changed 300 miles ago; I was using 10W-30 but I believe the mechanic used 5W-30. (Also, if I drive more than 45 minutes, the "low coolant" light comes on-- however, the engine is not overheating, and the radiator/reservoir are full.) What part(s) I should order first? Oil pressure sensor? Oil pump? (If at all possible, I need to repair myself, as I simply cannot afford my mechanic's hourly rates right now.)
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