Jeep - Wrangler :: 1998 Won't Start / No Noise
Oct 15, 2011
I own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
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I have a '98 Jeep Wrangler with various problems, but the most recent one has to do with the turn signals. When I intentionally use them, they seem to be working, but when I haven't signaled I still hear the ticking sound, only double-time. The sound is normal when I turn the signal on, and only stops when I apply the brake. I recently took the top off and left the Jeep uncovered in a couple of storms. Could this have caused electrical damage? Also, the left turn signal has required some finesse for as long as I've had the car--I've always needed to fiddle with it to get it to turn on--so I'm wondering if it's a wire connection that has deteriorated over time.
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Video of Noise: [URL] .....
I am getting the above noise on startup, it goes away after 5ish minutes. It isn't exactly cold out. So I don't think its the oil viscosity. Its not a bad oil filter flow back valve, and its way longer than the oil lifters should make noises. I don't think it is a cracked manifold, I think the noise would be different.
Jeep wrangler 2005. 4.0L, ~99k Miles
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I have a 4.0 6 cyl. Jeep wrangler manual transmission. When the jeep is driven in higher RPM close to redline the jeep sputters a bit (doesn't have full power at or close to redline). Is this a governor or does the jeep have a problem? I do not redline often at all. however i live in the mountains and need to travel up steep pass for 1-2 miles every few months.
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I tried starting my 2005 Jeep Wrangler yesterday and there wasn't enough charge to get it started. I got a few slow revolutions and that was it. I gave it a jump and it started fine. Drove it for an hour or so and then went to restart it 3 hours after I shut it off and it was dead again. Another jump and I drove it for an hour (home). I was able to start it a few hours after that on its own, though it struggled to a bit.
Tried again this morning and it was dead from sitting overnight. A few other bits of info:
With the key in the ignition, the charge indicator is hovering just above 9V (it is a 12V battery) before I try to start it. When engine is running after start, it jumps to around 12V.
I am pretty sure I didn't leave the lights on or door open overnight. I haven't noticed the engine struggling to start leading up to the dead battery.
After I jumped it again this morning, it seems to be idling very low. In fact, the engine shutoff when I let it idle in neutral with my foot off the gas for a few seconds.
When I got in the Jeep this morning before trying to start it, it had enough charge for the radio and dashboard. When I turn on the lights/highbeams it struggled and the high beam indicator on the dashboard (blue light) was flashing. Battery is not too old. I don't have the receipt with me, but I think I bought a new one 3-4 years ago. The +/- connections are clean with no corrosion. I didn't look too closely, but I didn't notice any obvious connection issues from the battery leading into other components.
I'll probably go buy another battery, but wanted to check with the experts out there to see if there is anything else I should be checking. If I do get another battery
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I have a 85 cj7 with a 258 straight 6 and recently when I have been refilling the gas tank she won't start right away and I end up waiting 1 to 2 hours before she will start up and then she drives fine until you have to put more gas and the cycle happens all over again. What the problem could be?
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Have replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
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So last week something happened that I've never had happen before. I was dropping my daughter off at school and I noticed that my dash lights weren't on. My headlights still worked and the blinkers did to.
When I got home and parked it, I checked out all the fuses. There was a 20 amp fuse that was blown, so I replaced it and then checked the relays under the hood. I turned on the key to check the dash lights and they still didn't work. The 20 amp fuse blew again, so I replaced it again. Now the dash lights work again.
However, when I tried to start it, it would turn over, but the fuel pump isn't turning on.
Long story short, I've replaced all 4 relays under the hood, installed a new fuel pump and also replaced some bulbs in my taillights and sides over the front tires. It turns over when I try to start it, but the fuel pump still isn't "kicking" on and it won't start. I feel like somehow, power isn't getting to the fuel pump.
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I get a noise from behind the radio of my Jeep wrangler 2003 that sounds like a vibrating spring that is hitting metal. I get it in the lower "harmonics" you get as you just shift into a lower gear. It doesn't last long and goes away as you rev up in the gear.
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I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler (4 cylinder) that seems to be having a fuel problem.... about a month ago, it started lurching, having a hard time starting, it would lose power on drives and once or twice it has stalled on me while I'm driving on the freeway. I've had to restart my car going 60 mph... if I feel it lurching or surging, I have been able to keep the car going by shifting into a lower gear or taking my foot off the gas.
I just took it into the dealership and spent 1300 to get it diagnosed and fixed. I got a new timing belt, and a whole bunch of other stuff and on the way out, it stalled at the first stop light. Although it seems to be running better, it obviously didn't fix the issue. I took it right back and now they are going to have me bring it back on Monday to 'try to figure it out’. Where should I tell them to look?
Oh, and - I had to get a short fixed from the ignition key (I was able to pull the key out while the car was running) and they fixed it. But now, I can't get any reception on my radio...
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I've got a 2004 Jeep Wrangler SE 5-speed with 83,000 miles on the 2.4l PowerTech engine in it, and it's making a very strange noise that I can't pinpoint.
So first, the noise itself. It sounds like a metallic tapping or ratcheting, like the sound of raising of a large chain hoist. Fairly high-pitched, audible inside and out. Not incredibly loud (I have to point it out to passengers) but loud enough to bother the hell out of me. The closest I can come with location is "somewhere under the hood."
However, the noise is only present under certain conditions:1. The transmission must be in gear. Forward or reverse doesn't matter. Revving engine at idle does not produce the noise.2. The transmission must be under load, i.e. when accelerating or releasing the clutch in 1st to begin driving. Letting off the gas stops the noise.3. The noise only exists somewhere between 1k and 2.5k rpms. Application of throttle at any road speed in any gear with the engine in that RPM range produces the noise. 4. The frequency of the tapping increases with engine speed. 5. Ambient temperature appears to have no effect, but as engine temperature increases the noise tends to disappear. Not always, though, as it shows up sometimes when the engine is completely up to operating temperature. 6. I don't notice any kind of performance issues related to the noise. Power's normal (for a 2.4l Chrysler 4-banger, that is) and gas mileage is within the EPA estimates.
Things I've investigated:1. I'm pretty sure it's not lifter noise. A bottle of Seafoam made it run better, but the noise persists. 2. I've checked the catalytic converter heat shield. It's on tight. I found the flange where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe was a bit loose, but tightening it down didn't eliminate the noise. Getting underneath and shaking the hell out of every component of the exhaust system I can reach produces no results.3. Engine mounts show normal wear. Transmission mount appears fine. 4. No check engine light, and all gauges read normal. Hooked up a code reader for fun and it came back with nothing.
As the noise only shows up while driving, I can't just crawl under there and poke around. The best I can do while driving is feel for related vibration, which gives me nothing. Whatever causing it, it's not transferring up through the stick.
In the may-or-may-not-be-related category, I've got a bit of oil consumption and a clunky transmission, but according to the various Jeep forums I've found, those seem to be fairly normal.
We got some snow the other day, and as I cleared it off I allowed the car to warm up for about 20 minutes. When I got in and drove it, the noise was greatly reduced. Not gone, but barely perceptible.
I spent a couple hours on YouTube the other day, trying to compare my noise to videos of other Jeeps with drivetrain issues, and found nothing even close to similar. Whatever's making this noise, it's not common.
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So as I was parking my car and I accidentally stalled it. So anyway I return to the car 20 minutes later to leave and when I start it up I notice the engine is idling at 2000 rpm and is making a loud hissing noise from the drivers side on the engine (I think). When I rev the engine it is slow to come back down to the 2000 rpm idle. When I put the car in gear and drive it, it likes to stay at 2000 rpm.
The car will accelerate without me pushing the gas pedal until it reaches 2000 rpm. Also when I shut the engine off, it sputters and coughs, almost like a backfiring motorcycle but rhythmically slowing down until it finally stops (around 3 seconds or so from when I turn the key off). The check engine light is OFF and the car is still "driveable" (I got it home) and typically idles around 900 rpm I think..
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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2004 Jeep Wrangler Sport 5-speed Bought used 2yrs ago. 76,000 miles Only seems to happen after driving for more than an hour. When I either back into my driveway or turn sharp into a parking sport, mostly to right, I get a bumping sound, like something rubbing. My mechanic has replaced the sway bar links, front rotors, axle yoke, had a front differential leak so seal was replaced, and am still getting the sound. Tires Bf Goodrich All Terrain Do not do off road.
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There is a whistling noise that is coming from under the hood of my Jeep. It is more noticeable on cold days. It temporarily disappears when my foot is on the accelerator or after I have been idling at a stop sign for 30 seconds. The noise starts again when I start driving.
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I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
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