Jeep - Wrangler :: 1989 - Hydraulic Clutch Bleeder Line Leaking
Feb 12, 2011
I have a '89 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L with the AX5 transmission. I noticed over time I had to push the clutch pedal down more to make it work. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was empty. I filled it but the pedal had no pressure. I looked at bleed the line protruding out from the clutch housing and noticed a fluid trail on it and inside the clutch housing. The rubber insulator at the opening was missing and suspect corrosion and any movement on the line cracked it where it connects inside. I am ready to junk this vehicle because it is rusted pretty bad, but thought I'd ask before I do.
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Just got done putting new clutch, master cylinder and slave cylinder in my 89 Jeep wrangler and it still will not go into gear while the vehicle is "turned on", however it shifts into all gears while the vehicle is turned off. After bleeding the clutch/getting all the air out, for over an hour it still would not go into gear while the vehicle is running, only when it is turned off.
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I put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
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I have been having a brake drag problem with my '89 Jeep Wrangler. I posted this problem previously when I thought it was an E-brake issue. I did a rear drum spring set change. The problem persisted, so I asked the local auto parts store and they said it could be a faulty master cylinder which I just replaced. The brakes felt fine for the first 1/2 hour driving, then the pedal started feeling harder to push and the brakes were dragging again. I jacked the car up and removed the tires to find both front calipers tight on the rotor, the rears would spin. With someone pressing the pedal, I did not notice any caliper movement.
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I have a 1989 Ford mustang 4 cylinder. The return line tofuel tank is leaking. I am wondering if I need to treat the return line as a "high Pressure line" or if I can repair with regular rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
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Just picked up a 2003 Ranger XL 2.3L and notice that I get a little grinding every now and then when shifting into 1st gear. The clutch was replaced 3 years ago according to the PO but had no clue as to how long it's been since the clutch was bled.
I've used my Motive pressure bleeder numerous times in the past on brakes with much success but I've never used it on the clutch. I've used vacuum bleeders as well but it's always a 50/50 success rate with that. The pressure bleeder just works much better for me.
Using a pressure bleeder on a clutch and if so any tips like still needing to tip the master cylinder end up to release any potentially trapped air bubbles?
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Looks like transmission mount (driver side/ left) is leaking. I was under the car today, and i found the small dribble of a thick, slow moving, black fluid that didnt have any scent. it leaked down the unibody, onto a brake line(solid line) and even made a few droplets onto the rim and lower control arm.
I traced the leak to the bottom bolt of the transmission mount. i count believe it; but apparently Hyundai engineers opted to use hydraulic mounts versus the more typical solid rubber mounts. it honestly took me 10 minutes, with a flashlight, to check over everything. the ONLY place that the fluid came from was the lowest bolt of the tranny mount. i simply didnt want to believe it to be the tranny mount.
I called a couple dealers, and they all said that if i am the original owner, and i have the 100,000 mile warranty still in effect, its covered.
awd part number: 218302W100
fed part number: 218302W00
Here are a few pics.....
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We have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse with a hydraulic clutch. The pedal is very soft in the morning and requires a good bit of pumping the pedal to get good pressure. I know the system needs to be bled. Does this mean one of the cylinders is bad? I have added a little bit of fluid over the last year- maybe 2 or 3 ounces total. Right now the fluid level seems fine but it still needs to be pumped before driving.
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I have a 04 camry and this car leaks gas after i pump about line before the full line. What do i need to do?!
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I am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
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I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
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Is there any mechanical adjustment on the manual shift hydraulic clutch? My clutch is not slipping but is just about all the way up on the pedal.
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I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
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I own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
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when the jeep warms up the transmission wont shift out of second gear.it is an automatic.had solenoid packs replaced and no mechanic has an idea.external cooler has been mentioned along with replacing pcm.
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I've been researching and trying to find an answer to the "death wobble" on my 2005 Jeep Wrangler. I've had it in to the dealer and two other repair centers and no one can identify the culprit, other than to say we can change out each piece of the front end a part at a time to see if that will solve the problem. I could buy a new Wrangler for that. I constantly have the tire balanced or checked for balance. The front and rear shocks have been inspected. The bushings in the front end have been inspected. The wobble is very subtle from 40-45ish. At about 52mph it is the worst. Above 55 and it returns to almost nothing. Braking does not increase the wobble. I've not modified anything on the vehicle. From what I've read on blogs this is a common issue for the Wrangler starting somewhere around 2000.
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