Jeep - Patriot :: 2011 - At Startup Starter Keeps On Cranking
Nov 12, 2011
My jeep is 6 months old. From day one it has erratic starter problems. Often when starting it, the starter keeps on cranking after I let go of the key! The ignition switch visually returns to the run position, but is electronically stuck in start mode. When this happens I quickly shut off the ignition and try again. Jeep cant duplicate the problem, and says Chrysler has no bulletins about this.
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In February I purchased a 2011 Subaru Impreza, 4 door sport with 26k miles, for 16,999.
Now 3 months later I have pilled on over 10k miles due to work, and constantly feel cramped with no space because I load so much into my car for my job (promotions and sales).
Recently, I have come across a 2014 Jeep Patriot sport with 15k miles for 19,600. The car seems to be in good condition inside and out.
Now I know nothing about Jeeps or cars as a whole really. But I do know that aside from size I love my Subaru.
Looking for opinions about switching from the 2011 Subaru Impreza to a 2014 Jeep Patriot?
Key features:
-I drive a ton
-Car is always loaded with stuff
-Fuel economy isn't a huge concern
-Subaru has over 36k miles
-Jeep has 15k miles
-In three months I have put over 10k on due to work
Stay with the Subaru or move to the jeep?
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A little over four months ago, I had a flat tire replaced on my 2008 Jeep Patriot. On the way I home I noticed a vibration around 35-40 mph. There was also an occasional "thunk" from somewhere underneath the vehicle. I took it back to the tire store 2-3 days later, and they rebalanced the tires. No luck. Took it back again again a couple of weeks later, and they could not find the problem. They recommended I take it to a dealer. It was a month or so before I could get it in to the dealer, and they replaced some worn parts in the drive train. Still the vibration.
Took it back to the dealer, by now about 4 months after the tire was replaced, and after having it in the shop for two days, they finally noticed that the replacement tire was the wrong size -- didn't match the mfr specs and (probably more importantly) didn't match the other three tires. They replaced all four tires, which were now worn and worn unevenly. The replaced the rear toe adjusters and one lower control arm. And aligned it, of course. Total bill for all the work done by the dealer, including the original work and the new tires.
Originally, the dealer blamed the worn toe adjusters and lower control arm on the wrong-sized tire, but once I started asking them for information to use against the tire dealer, they crawfished and said the only thing that the tire dealer should be responsible for was the tires and alignment. I took the vehicle and the old tires back to the tire dealer and asked them to refund what I paid for the replacement tire, pay me a prorated portion of the replacement for the other three tires, and pay for the alignment. (Which I thought was very reasonable.) They haven't given me an answer yet, but the manager claims that having one wrong-sized tire would not affect the other tires, that the uneven wear on those tires was caused by the worn parts that the dealer replaced (toe adjusters and lower control arm).
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I have a 2010 Jeep Patriot and recently it has started to jerk as I am accelerating. When I get to about 2200-2500 RPM the engine feels like I have completely let off the gas and then put my foot back down on it. Once it showed the Electronic Throttle Control warning light but I have not seen that light again in the past month or so. Originally I thought it might be the spark plugs, but I have changed those and seen no improvement. What could be wrong???
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I have a 2014 Patriot. I swapped my all-season tires for my snow tires and discovered the front tires (both) are wearing badly on the inner half. The right tire has worn way more than the left, and it is bald on that edge. I had an alignment done in May 2015 at 25,000 km after I had put on my all-season tires (that was done in April). Since then, I forgot to get a rotation done (and perhaps they would have seen the issue sooner). I brought the car in today to get looked at (Dec 17) but they found nothing wrong. They even did an alignment check and everything is within specs. What's wrong with it. I'm afraid my snow tires are going to wear the same way. The service manager tried to tell me that my tires were wearing on the inner edge of the tire naturally due to turning my steering wheel.
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I have a 2008 Jeep Patriot with a CVT transmission. The car was recently purchased and seems to have problems with slippage. When I accelerate, the car revs up highly, the tack goes to nearly 4k but the car does not accelerate in unison. Also, going up hill seem to challenge it. Seems like its slipping. When I took it to the dealer, the service manager says its because its a CVT transmission that's the way it supposed to perform. Is this the normal performance for this type of tranny? How I might handle issues with this tranny and getting the dealer to fix it?
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When I driver between 10-20 mph while coasting to a stop, there is a rattling/knocking coming from the left front end. I have jacked the front end up and shook the wheel and axle and nothing seems to be loose. What could be making this noise?
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My Jeep makes a whining noise and sounds like a diesel truck. In the morning when I back out of my garage and reverse down a little way the noise is there. When I then drive off, the noise gets even louder. As I drive, the diesel noise seems to stop. The whining noise fluctuates. The whining noise started when my mechanic put in a new tensioner. He insists that the problem is the compressor. Twice he has removed the belt and checked everything and he says there is nothing wrong with the car except the compressor. T he air conditioner mechanic says it is not because the ac works well. He said that he has seen quite a few Patriots with this problem but he cannot tell me what it is because the people never come back to tell him what the problem was. I play the cd and the radio loud to drown out the noise so my husband who had a stroke does not have to listen to the noise.
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My wife drives a 2013 jeep patriot with less than 20k miles on it. The turn signals began behaving eccentrically (beeps at strange intervals, and the right turn signal flashing twice as fast most of the time). We figured out that the right rear brake/turn light was out, so I replaced the bulb. That solved the problems, but on the way I noticed that the widget that the bulb plugs into looks just scorched (see pics). I don't have enough experience with these vehicles to know if this is normal, or if this means more trouble to come.
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Well I got all the wiring redone and things are looking good except for one major problem... my starter is no cranking. I am getting nothing on it. It, everything else is solid all connections check the thing is just NOT work. Where to begin to problem solve this?
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I have a 2000 Grand Marquis. Yesterday I turned the key and the starter didn't crank. Everything else came on like it is supposed to. Radio, dash, warning lights, etc. After trying a few times, it started but the starter wouldn't disengage. I had to disconnect the battery for it to stop. I changed the ignition switch and cycled the key, but when I try to hook the battery back up, the starter immediately begins to crank. Even when the key is off and out of the ignition.
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1993 Nissan maxima
The battery went dead so I put a new battery in and a few days later I had the hood open and I had my wife start the car. I heard a loud cracking sound and saw a large bright blueish flash above and between the starter solenoid and the body of the starter.I had my wife turn the car off and start it again and it did the same thing again.
What the heck is going on?
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I've been trying to figure out a slow start condition on my 06 F350. What should the starter rpms be when cranking? My scanguage reads 180. Does this sound low? Batteries are new.
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My car seems to start fine but sometimes while its cranking or right after startup my gauges will bounce around, then it'll be fine. When I first popped the hood i seen that my negative battery terminal was covered in crust and milky looking grease junk. I dont know it it was acid from the battery leaking or what, but anyhow I cleaned up the post and replaced the negative terminal. But still it's doing it, not every time i start it but just about.
Besides the fact that it idles like a tractor the engine runs good and strong.
I have done some research and heard talk about the body control module but i dont think thats the problem in my case. Another thing that came to mind was the alternator but i don't seem to have any problem cranking the engine over and the battery is never dead.
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My daughter drives an 04 WRX. We purchased the car new, taught her to drive in it and have kept up with the maintenance. Including changing the timing belt and water pump about 13 months ago. The odometer was at about 96K then and is now at about 102K.A week ago my daughter came inside and told me that her car would not start. I went out turned the key. She was right, the engine cranked but would not fire. The cranking of the engine was unusually fast and the sound it made during cranking was off. I immediately thought that the starter was bust.I replaced the starter and while at it replaced the plugs the belts and the front pulley (the pulley because our Forester's pulley's rubber ring had recently de-bonded it self). I put it all back together and turned the key. To my horror the car would not start. The starter sound and crank speeds were the same as before I did my mini tune up.To bring the pain to an end I had the car towed to my local Subaru dealer. I momentarily blacked out when he called and told me that the timing belt had probably jumped and that the engine heads and valves were now ruined. My engine will need to be replaced. Final punch in the gut, it will cost $8000.Is this for real given that the engine did not start and that the damage would have had to be done by just cranking with the starter?
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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Last night my battery died. We tried charging the battery today and it was didn't work, so I grabbed the battery out of my IS300 and put it in the F. The car still won't start, I don't even hear the starter cranking. Not sure what's going on.
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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Just got my new work truck a '12 EB. This morning it was about 9 degrees and I jumped in and turned the key. The dash screen went out and the radio display went out then cycled back on but the starter didn't crank. I tried 2 more times with the same result. Then I just let the key in the on position for about 10 seconds and then I turned the key and it started right up. I stopped at several places and every time I went to start it it cranked and fired up the first try. Now tonight the truck has been sitting for 7 hours and it is 12 degrees, it took several tries before it cranked.
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What are the odds that the fly wheel is ok and I just need to replace the starter? I can hear it engage the flywheel, it's making the zzzzzzzzzzz noise after it disengages the flywheel, can these starters be oiled or anything to prevent that noise?
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My 96 cherokee 4.o is having trouble. the motor is cranking but will not stay running unless i am pouring gas directly into the butterfly valve. it runs great while i am pouring gas into it, but it sputters out and dies once i stop. i checked to pressure in the fuel rail and gas will come out of the valve however the pressure gauge doesn't have any response. it feels like the fuel pump.
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