Jeep - Overheating - Weather - Cherokee - Clutches :: 2000, AC Clutch Won't Engage On Hot Days
Jun 4, 2013
2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0L, in Palo Alto, CA.
My air conditioner clutch stops engaging after driving in hot weather.
In hot weather (>80 degrees), when I first turn on the AC it blows nice and cold for up to 30 minutes, after which it gradually gets warmer and then hot air comes out. If I leave the AC on when it is blowing hot air, it will suddenly blow cold again (sometimes it takes a couple minutes for it to work again, sometimes it takes 30 minutes). Then the cycle repeats.The AC seems to be dependent on outside temperature: on very hot days ~95 degrees the AC will only work for ~5 minutes before blowing hot, 80 degree days the AC works longer, limited testing in cooler weather (at night ~60 degrees) AC always blows cold. When it is blowing hot air, the clutch on the compressor hasn’t engaged. When the AC is blowing cold, the clutch engages/disengages normally depending on how you set the temperature. I replaced the low pressure switch, did not change AC function. I recharged the AC, did not change AC function.Engine temperature reading always in normal range <210 degrees. Heater is working normally.
I’m pretty sure the clutch is getting the signals to engage. When the AC is working normally the engine revs slightly higher when AC clutch is engaged.Likewise, when the AC is blowing hot air and the clutch isn’t engaged the engine revs higher. And if I disconnect either the low or the high pressure switches the engine reduces to normal idling.
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My Jeep makes a whistling noise in cool/cold weather (~60 degrees and below) that no mechanic has been able to diagnose let alone fix the problem. Here are the details...
-high pitched whistling (can be heard inside and outside the car - very loud) only when temps are about 60 degrees and below-after 5 minutes of the car running-only when RPMs are about 2.0 or below.
However, RPMs can be higher when it is colder out and it will still make the noise-as you push on the accelerator, the noise gradually decreases until RPMs are high enough to completely stop the noise.
When temps are around 50-60 degrees, sometimes the whistling will stop after the car has been at a complete stop for about 1-2 minutes-If you turn off the car and let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then turn it back on, usually the whistling will be gone. It will need to sit in the off position for longer the colder the temps are. This problem has been ongoing for about 4 years.
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2001 Jeep Cherokee sport ... Just bought this Jeep with 145K miles. Had radiator and all hoses replaced. The overflow tank is boiling over but the engine is not overheating. Safe to drive? What should I be checking for?
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I live on a boat access only island, so desperate. This jeep has over 230,000 km on it. Runs well, but this year started this thing where it won't start first time crank, but always starts second or third go. Bought new battery last year, so doesn't seem to be that kind of issue.
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I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee that yesterday the key got stuck in the ignition and i cannot remove it. At the same time i used to have to press the brake to shift from park to any gear now it just moves freely without using the brake.
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This past week when I went to leave work my jeep would not start. It would turn over once, and then die....but if I kept my foot on the gas and kept the RPM's up it stayed running. So, I drove it home with one foot on the gas and one on the brake so it wouldn't stall out on the road. The next 2 days the same thing happened when I went to leave work. It starts fine the rest of the time, even first thing in the morning when it's cold..
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Last fall I had my mechanic replace the broken air compressor on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee with a by pass. I didn't have money to replace it at the time and I still don't. I want to pick up one at a junk yard. How to do this? Where and how to learn more about maintaining and repairing my vehicle.
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Clutch won't shift on a HOT day. When its hot I can't shift very easy between gears. However, the clutch is newer and so it works just fine. When its cold its sometimes tough but not as hard at all. Could it be a clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? Do I need to bleed it?
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I have an '89 Jeep Cherokee and it idles way to high. In park it idles at from 1500-3000 after being warmed up. In drive it idles at 1300-1500. It idles at 2000 at 35 mph. We've replaced the O2 censor, the throttle positioning censor, the coolant temperature sensor, and a few other parts. None of this worked.
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In the really cold weather after I start my Jeep and it goes in Drive and it's driven for several miles when I go to put it back into Park the shifter gets hung up. It will go into all of the other gears except for Park. If I wait a while it goes back in but it can still feel like it's not smooth.
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2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work?
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I have tried all the tricks on the internet and still can't get the key unlocked, so I am ready to just replace the part. Is this something my son can do or is it very complicated?
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Engine shutdown then starts after a few minutes....
Jeep cherokee 4.8L 2000 .....
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My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo won't start...It cranks strong but won't turn over..I can hear my Fuel Pump kick on from the back of the Vehicle but it won't kick on listening from the engine compartment??I checked all fuses.I had a tune up a couple of months ago..My check engine light was on before the tune up and my mechanic said that the tune up corrected the problem the car was coding out... I've been told to check the ALARM by turning the alarm on and off and also unlocking the car Via the driver door.. This didn't work.. I've been told to check the Fuel cut off switch(RESET BUTTON) for my make and year but can't seem to locate it...
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I have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. The check engine light, keeps coming on, and the scan tool, shows P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Misfires in #1, 2 & 3 cylinder.
I replaced the Coil Pack & all spark plugs with genuine jeep parts from the dealer. What might be wrong or other things to check?
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I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L with about 180,000 miles on it. I'm currently in the middle of a road trip, and today my car's been stuttering as I've started it up. After the car sits idle for a while, it stutters as I turn the key ("chug-chug-chug-chug-chu-chu-chu-chu-fail" is about how it goes). When I take the keys out and put them in again for another shot, it manages to start on the second or third try.
It runs OK once the engine gets going, and after I've been driving for a while I can turn it off and on again, without any problem. My main questions are: (1) Is this likely an issue with the starter, alternator, or something completely different? and (2) just how serious is it? If I can get the car running can I make it another ~1500 miles, or should I try to find a dealership before making it back home?
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Brooklyn mechanic says "every Jeep Cherokee 2000 6 cyl. 4x4 has this problem--number 3 cylinder mis-fires because it can get too hot". When I return from the country to the city, unload Jeep at the apartment, then, after about 15 minutes, re-start Jeep, it bucks and rumbles and misfires with no power from motor. I pump the gas pedal, and after about a minute it settles down.
Country mechanic has done smoke tests, looked all over for any compression leak, replaced gas cap, put insulation tape over #3 cylinder, and reported that this problem is in the "data bank" of Cherokee problems, where ever that data bank is. The question is, can one live with this problem, or will it cause more problems? Why does the motor settle down after pumping the gas pedal for about a minute? I've had the starter coil replaced recently, as I was told it can get fried from too much mis-firing.
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My wife's 2000 Jeep Cherokee has a failing A/C system. Last year it was blowing warm air in the middle of the summer so I took it to a local mechanic who recharged the freon and it was fine through the rest of the summer. This year it is blowing warm again so we took it in for another recharge and it only lasted a few days. The mechanic said there is a leak at the evaporator coil(?) He said the entire dash needs to be removed to repair and it would run about $1000 to fix. This seems a bit steep. Any thoughts or experience with this issue?
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Jeep 2000 Cherokee
So I have this thumping noise, almost sounds like something is loose.The noise occurs for a few seconds when I accelerate from a dead stop and then goes away, it returns when I slow down and almost come to a complete stop.The noise also goes away when I put her into 4wd.The thump/rattle sounds like it is coming from the center counsel area and directly under the floor board in the driver seat.My car changes gears smoothly up and down while driving.
I was told it might be a transfer case problem and that it might need to be rebuilt, which makes me worry.
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2005 Accent Hatchback... As of Friday I noticed my vehicle had been overheating. The coolant levels haven't seemed to change but this is a recent issue so there still may be a slow leak I'm not noticing.
I let the car idle to normal operating temperatures over the course of 17 minutes. While warming up the top radiator hose became warmer, and eventually hot -- the bottom hosed seemed to stay cold and didn't appear to change in temperature.
After reaching normal temps I let the car sit another 3-5 minutes to watch the temp gauge, which did not move. I drove the vehicle stop-and-go 5 laps around my complex(about a mile). There was no noticeable change in temps.
I then turned on the AC which blew ice cold and did another lap. After the first lap the gauge began to rise fairly quick. I immediately turned the AC off and drove the rest of the 2nd lap. The temperatures continued to rise throughout the 2nd lap. I parked with the gauge at about 62% assuming normal temps to be 50% (middle of gauge).
Once parked I checked the hoses. Top hose was hot, bottom hose cold. Coolant tank was at the HIGH mark previous to it being on the LOW mark before the car was started. The oil is at the same level as it was when I changed it a couple months ago, and it looked clean.
Before I started the car I also noted that the radiator was filled to the top. As mentioned OIL looks clean, coolant looks clean. No unusual smoke coming from exhaust or engine.
I've done a lot of reading and some information suggest that the thermostat might be stuck closed. Other post say that if the thermostat was stuck closed the top hose wouldn't get hot. But, these are also post for other vehicles so that might vary here.
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