Jeep - Liberty :: Steering Wheel Locked Or Hard To Move When It Is Cold And Car Sitting For A While
Jan 27, 2014
I have a Jeep Liberty 2002 Sports. When it is cold and the car has been sitting for a while, when I start the car, the steering wheel is locked or hard to move. I have not tried to force it. But it will move if I rev the engine to a certain point. Once I rev the engine I can move the steering wheel again. I have left the car to warm up before revving the engine, but this does not work with the steering, I have to rev the engine in order to "unlocked" the wheel.
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My 2004 Liberty just started this a couple weeks ago. When sitting still, the AC blows hot air. It cools down nicely when you start moving. This makes traffic lights and people who don't go when the light turns green VERY annoying. While waiting, I can hear the compressor coming on and off. Thinking perhaps the radiator fan wasn't coming on, I looked at the radiator fan fuse, 40 amps, and it looks fine. I even checked it with an ohm meter. With the car sitting still, engine running and AC on, I don't think the radiator fan is going. Maybe one of these two relays?
Important details (or not)5 speed transmission125,000 miles"What color is the car?" Blue.Two wheel drive. (alas, it's a Jeep in style only)
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter in line 6.tilt steering wheel is lock in one position. The handle that you release to move the steering wheel up or down don't have any tension on it.
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I have a 99 jeep grand cherokee. Started car up and there is a shrieking loud noise. the car worked fine when i drove it yesterday. the steering wheel will not move. i looked under the hood and the steering wheel fluid is completely drained. do i just need fluid? what is the shrieking noise?? It's sunday so i'm unable to contact dealership or get the fluid that i was told i can only buy from dealership.
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I drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the Jeep had some trouble starting. It would crank and turn over and then sputter out. I tried it again and it did the same thing. After letting it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran fine. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and nothing that seemed unusual. A couple days later, my wife noticed a small pool of pink fluid on the floor of the garage where my Jeep parks.
So I took the Jeep in to get it looked at. They said there was a leak in the coolant line as well as the pinion system, both of which they repaired. Since then, the Jeep has done this 3 more times, usually from a warm start. If it's been sitting for a few hours, it starts without a problem. But if I'm running errands, then the third time I try to start it, it will fail until I let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it will finally start up. What it could be before I take it back to the mechanic?
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I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty, which is making a rhythmic clunk (Click and Clack's not oft referred to cousin) on every wheel rotation, when veering to the left. Going straight there is no noise, right, no noise, and oversteering left also makes the noise go away. Braking also makes the noise go away. Mechanic said they could not determine why it was doing this. It's not real loud, but noticeable at any speed, particularly prevalent at about 30 mph. Clunk noise happens once per tire rotation. I've seen similar threads here, but nothing "exactly" like this. Don't know how to duplicate the weight/momentum/centrifugal forces with the car stationary.
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I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
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I had a line blow on my steering rack, and I was taking it to the garage well I decided to add some power steering fluid but instead I added it to my brake system , (yes I know it was bonehead move on my part when I do know the difference). Any ways I drove my 2008 jeep liberty about 5 miles to the garage, they are changing my rack and pinion because the initial problem, but my question is do I bite the bullet and change the master cylinder, brake lines and calipers??? I do a lot of driving on highways , and I am been getting mixed answers yes change it all and no just flush it out.
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My rack and pinion began to fail and my Liberty developed sensitive steering (lane to lane and while towing trailers). I had it replaced locally and aligned but when I got it back it was more sensitive than before and borders on "unsafe to drive". I can imagine what it would do if I put a trailer behind it. In my mind something is binding which is fighting the steering input.
When you turn the steering wheel stays where-ever you steer to (does not return to center). My next repair is a known bad ball joint, but I don't think that is causing this. My question is at 106K could my power steering pump be producing less than full power? Is there a dampener in this system that could have frozen up? I'm ruling out the alignment for now. This is the V-6, 4WD Limited.
I truly intend to repair it forever, but if I can't get past this it goes to the junkyard.
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I have a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7L with 60,000 miles on it. The engine light when on 2 weeks ago and gave a p300 code. the dealership replaced coil and plugs, I believe. Then would start rough when cold, the engine light would blink for about 10 seconds then remain on. the car runs just fine except when cold....first minute of starting it. they checked for head gasket problem, and cant seem to find the problem. They told me that this could just be something that happens. I don't believe that. I have no loss of power, no hesitation. Runs fine 99% of the time
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My 2007 Civic Hybrid is having trouble starting. This happens when it's cold out, it's been sitting outside overnight (I don't have a garage), and the IMA battery is low. I've taken it to the dealership but they were not surprisingly no luck. The car has about 65,000 miles and a new battery - the one in front - was put in not too long ago and tests fine.
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I got a 2002 passat 1.8t in the shop fixin some bodywork on it. When its in the cold the brake pedal gets rock hard and if you step on it the brake lights come on and stay on, when it stays in the shop its fine.
Read online about an issue with water getting in the brake booster and freezing. found nothing in the search...
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My steering wheel locked up on me after i parked it it now says steering defective workshop..... I can't start it nor change gears it does nothing...the battery in the remote is fine what do i do?
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My steering wheel and ignition locked up 2 days ago. I tried turning the wheel and the ignition at the same time, tried the brakes, tried shifting gears and anything else i could think of. I think the problem might be with the ignition coils, or multiple ones, but i have bypassed that by hot-wiring the car(which was a pain because of all the anti-theft features).
So I have the car running now and it is almost drivable except the steering wheel is locked up. I need to know how to fix this, i have read plenty on it and i think i can break a pin that locks the steering wheel to make it work, but i don't know where this pin is(might be behind the ignitions, or attached to it somewhere). if i could do this without breaking anything that would be great, but if the car will run, I am ok with it begin broken, because i already hot-wired it so I'm not worried about breaking anything unless it will make the car not run.
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2000 Honda Accord - will go to put the key into the ignition, key slips right in, but will not turn. The steering wheel is locked. This has been happening intermittently for a few months with no improvement. Sometime it will take me 10-30 minutes of wiggling the key, turning the steering wheel, etc until the steering wheel unlocks and key turns in the ignition. My patience is wearing and I'm concerned that it will eventually get to the point where it won't turn at all! I've tried with an alternate key and same results.
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I have a 2008 Accent with 136,000 km on it. A few days ago I parked with the wheels slightly turned and the steering wheel totally locked, the key couldn't turn and the wheel couldn't be unlocked by pushing it either way. I called CAA and the driver had no luck but he tapped the key lightly with a wrench while it was in the ignition and it started. I took it to the mechanic yesterday and they had the same problems and called a locksmith who specializes in automotive locks.
They told me to take it to the dealership because they thought it was something further inside. Something was bugging me and I realized what it was. When the car was parked and the key wasn't in the ignition, as soon as I opened the driver side door the chimes went off. I closed the door, tried to lock it from outside with the remote but it wouldn't lock and the alarm wouldn't engage. I called my mechanic to tell him this and we all agreed that it seemed the car thought the key was in the ignition even though it wasn't.
I went to the dealership and left it and they called and said it was the ignition cylinder that needed replacing. Does this sound right?
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First I have to say my Santa Fe is my pride and joy, never have I enjoyed a vehicle so much but today I encountered a problem. I went out to start my car, steering wheel is locked, key in ignition won't unlock, can't turn steering wheel to unlock.
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Car 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Engine 3.8 series II 160,000 KM
Problem : The Steering wheel won't move, I can start and drive the car forward/reverse but the wheel won't move right or left?? I was planning on scrapping the car in spring 2015 but need to move the car and don't have a clue on fixing this issue.
The key cylinder is located in the dash and I don't have any passlock II codes errors when trying to start the car, My power steering pump doesn't squeal or is locked (not Burning belts) but the pump is empty. I was thinking a seized rack & pinion but have never heard of that,I should still have manual steering I'm guessing still.
[URL] ......
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I had my power steering motor and ignition replaced according to the Saturn recall 2 months ago. Went out yesterday and the PWR STR warning light was on, unable to move steering wheel. Turned the car off and waited a few minutes and turned the car back on and the power steering was fine. Since I just had the motor replaced do you think it is just a fuse? Or should I call the dealer?
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I've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
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Got my 2007 XLT Screw here, love this truck, not one problem with it since i got it. but i have started to hear and feel a noise.
I have a click sound and slight click feel in my steering wheel. This happens when I am sitting still with the wheel straight, and i just slightly rock the steering wheel back and forth. If i turn the wheel a full turn left or right then rock the steering wheel back and forth I don't get the sound or feeling. Also if I am cruising down the road and rock the wheel back and forth slightly I don't get it.
This is something between the steering wheel and the firewall. I checked all steering shafts and all suspension from the firewall down to the wheels. So that at least make me feel better that I am not dealing with one of those steering shafts or a suspension repair.
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