My jeep liberty 2002 has been sitting for two weeks. Noticed rear door latch opening and closing. So I unhooked battery. I figured battery was dead tried to hook charge to it but it keep discharging kicking off charger. Whats going on? Tried jumping but it was still discharging?
View 5 RepliesI checked my rx350 battery health and it is good. Still I am having recurrent issues when battery dies. And needs a restart. It happened many times and last one just happened this morning and I have feeling that this is related to rear hatch door...let me explain what happened:
Yesterday evening I went for grocery shopping and opened the rear hatch door using my car key remote, kept the groceries and closed the rear hatch using the button on the bottom of rear hatch door. I drove back to home and parked the vehicle in the garage. This morning I opened the rear hatch again and closed it, drove it to a house one block away, returned home and parked the car.
When I tried to start 1 hour later, the battery had already died. So, I have a feeling that opening and closing the rear hatch door 3 times caused this battery drain.
So lately I have noticed that my front doors have quite a bit of noise in them when opening and closing. I went to the store and purchased some grease it toned it down a little but the noise it still there. I know the noise is coming the bar that goes inside the door. Is there some that keep the door quiet? My door are not bent at all.
View 4 RepliesIt's a '99 Montana EWB.
OK, I know I have an issue with clean water entering the cabin and depositing itself in the channel next to the driver's side rocker where a fair number of wires are located. It filled with water last fall and I dried it out and never thought too much more about it, but knew there was water coming in somewhere. At first I thought it was the AC, but the drain is clear and running.
It's similar to the damned TSB Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E that is a sticky here on the forum.
This time however, I didn't check for water in the fall and this morning in a blinding snow storm at 14F the power sliding door acted up 5 minutes before my wife left for work. By the time she got to work the damned TCS and ABS idiot lights came on, and she says the sliding door attempted to open, but she got it to close.
Now the van is 20 miles away and I won't be able to look at it until I can get it home and try to dry it out again. In the driveway in a snow storm!!!
If GM had been a little more specific about the root cause of water issues mentioned in the TSB, it would make life and fixing this problem that much easier.
My 08 gs350 makes a clicking noise when you open the doors really wide and again as you close it. I've tightened all the screws around the door check... Also lubed it as good as possible.
Could it be something to do with the door check pin? How do you replace it?
I have a minor squeak opening and closing the driver's door. Any recommendation for the best lubricant to use on the hinges? Is WD-40 acceptable or are there better alternatives?
View 5 RepliesI am able to open the trunk with remote but not from latch inside or key! Whats the diagnosis and fix?
View 8 RepliesMy front left door, when opening and closing, makes that grinding/clicking/popping type noise coming from the hinges (I'm guessing)...I'm searching for the correct word to use to describe it...like when the door would be off kilter or something and the metal is catching...if that makes sense...you can hear it when moving the door, not just at the halfway point of being opened/closed where it will stay in that position ... There has been no damage to that area...no weight put down on door when opened...and it started out of nowhere.
View 4 RepliesMy driver and my driver side passenger (slightly) door squeaks when I open and close it. I know it has to do with the door checks. The black plastic thing that holds the door open 1/4 or 1/2 way. I don't want to try something that might not fix it like greasing it. I don't want a glob of grease on there and it still squeaks. Is there a way to adjust it?
View 8 RepliesMy drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
View 9 Replies2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
View 2 RepliesWe have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
View 5 RepliesStarted the other day. Seems like the blend door that channels air to the dash vents is opening and closing as it feels like it. Sometimes open for awhile, sometimes closed. The defrost vents keep blowing cold and normal while doing this.
View 9 RepliesMy radiator fan is not turning on in my 2002 Jeep Liberty. The belts look fine and it turns by hand. My radiator overheated last summer but since has been fixed now my fan doesn't work, but hasn't overheated. No parts of the the radiator or fan were removed. We fixed a part in the water pump this past sunday and when we had the engine running for about 15 minutes, the fan did not turn on or even act like it was going to try. What the issue could be?
View 9 Repliesi have a 2002 jeep liberty.the cv shaft is popping.do i have to replace anything besides shaft.to fix jeep.
View 4 RepliesOur Jeep has 120k miles and it has the towing package with heavy duty cooling system. In Sept we were returning from a very mild summer in WA when we hit hot weather and mountains in south OR the jeep overheated and we had it towed to a gas station. They replaced the thermostat and checked the fan relay and topped off the coolant (with the wrong type). The Jeep continued overheating when stressed the rest of the way home, another 600 mi. We took it to the Chrysler/Jeep dealer and they flushed the system of the coolant mixture, replaced hoses, fan clutch and the thermostat ($900). The Jeep ran ok a short while before overheating again.
Returned to the dealer and they did all their tests and everything OK. A while later again overheating and returned to the dealer. Their tests again showed no problem, but the mechanic noticed the aux. the fan did not come on when AC turned on. He ran his own tests and decided either the switch or the relay for the fan was faulty, with the switch more likely. They ordered a new switch; the switch didn't?t fit. Called the supplier and requested the correct switch and again the switch didn't?t fit. The mechanic said he could file the prongs to make it fit and did so.
The jeep ran excellent for a few months. In Feb. had to overheat again, this time the dealer found sludge from the old mix of correct/incorrect coolant and flushed system twice. Jeep ran OK for a couple months then again overheating. This time it made it over the mountains fine but driving along flat I-5 south of Redding it overheated. We stopped and after the reservoir stopped boiling (10 min) the temp gauge was fine. We drove for 1-2 hrs. and heats up again. This keeps up till we get home, 400 mi. later. The dealer does his tests and everything fine. I tell them the aux. the fan seems to be randomly shutting off on its own but it does not act up for them so there is no problem. Could the replacement coolant temperature switch for the aux fan not be compatible with the 2002 Jeep?
I am the proud owner (almost paid for) of a 2002 jeep liberty limited 4wd. It has been in the family (2 years with me and three with my mom) for 5 years now. It has 102,000 miles and about 7,000 of those miles are city (I only drive 6 miles a day to work and back) and the rest highway. My mom bought it from the original owner with 60,000 miles. It has been a low maintenance vehicle until recently. There are a couple of major issues and then three or four minor ones. I'll start with the most pressing. About 8 months ago I replaced a flat tire with a mismatched size spare on the drive axle and drove for close to 6 weeks before I realized the tires were different sizes. I noticed the problem when driving in 4wd I started to notice a thunking sound and called a mechanic who told me to check the size of the tires.
The spare was the original factory spare (235/70r16) and the rest of the tires were purchased used by my mother (245/65r16) I immediately replaced the spare and have continued to drive the car to work.Since then there have been no real mechanical problems but the jeep is making funny noises. At first it seemed like my right front tie rod end was going out because of vibration at around 40 mph. I took it to a mechanic to have he tie rod end replaced and he said that the rear end is "going out". Seems kinda high to me and I am wondering if I replace the rear end now, how long till I have to replace the front end and 4wd system? Will the rear end go out again if the front end goes out? Should I just start with new parts and rebuild he whole drivetrain now to save money later?
I have a 2002 jeep liberty 3.7... It auto trans 4wheel drive. All at once it makes rattling noise and shake like crazy. I was thinking oh no another u joint but checked them none broke or cracked. So I got back in drove it on home and it had stopped. So then I thought front cv axle. So I put in 4x4 and drove it and nothing?
View 4 RepliesAt startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
View 2 RepliesIt has 197k and change.It's not throwing any codes whatsoever. I can drive it all day and it wont overheat as long as I keep it under 2000 rpm.If I take it over 2000 rpm, it slowly heats up, but I can cool it down by slowing down. I can do like 50 mph max without it threatening to overheat. I've never let it get above 3/4 without pulling over and letting it cool off (I know how heads like to warp and crack).
Rubbery sludge in coolant reservoir (almost positive it's oil) but absolutely NO coolant in the oil, there never has been. I do all the oil changes myself and check it quite often. I've been keeping the reservoir full but it loses coolant daily (no leaks on ground anywhere, ever. I've already removed the reservoir and cleaned it out several times, but since it has more than one chamber it's almost impossible to fully clean without replacing. The hose that runs from the top chamber to the bottom blows off from time to time (I finally put hose clamps on it). I've flushed the cooling system several times but still the sludge comes back. I've removed and cleaned the thermostat (still good) and housing (had very little sludge). I flushed out the heater core but the heat is still weak.
Makes a loud whistling noise at idle, the noise literally stops every time I give it gas. (this is where I was thinking Intake Manifold Gasket, maybe vacuum leak) You gotta love these plastic manifolds. BUT it's idling low (650 rpm once fully warmed up) not bogging or sputtering whatsoever. Fans are working completely fine. It loses oil but again, no leaks on the ground whatsoever. I thought at first it was burning it (high mileage, worn piston rings) until I noticed the coolant reservoir was gunked (wasn't very long and I know I didn't mix different kinds. I check everything (more than regularly) and it loses quite a bit of oil.
Before everyone says head gasket, it isn't losing much power (if any at all), no white exhaust, and as mentioned before there's no coolant in the oil.Whatever it is, I can repair it myself but before I tear this thing a new one replacing gaskets and seals I'd like to be completely sure.
I have an interlock installed in my 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport. I've been having electrical problems in it ever since it was installed. Prior to it being installed the jeep wasn't mine, it was my grandfathers, and he says it really wasn't driven for a while consistently but it didn't have any electrical problems before the interlock was put in. I'm not sure if this is accurate or not because I'd never driven it prior to the installation. Either way, now I believe I have a short in the electrical somewhere in the system. I'm not sure how to proceed, other then to check the fuses. The battery IS currently dead, but it wasn't.
I was able to start the car and get it down the road, hoping the alternator would charge the battery (the lights were out, none came back on) After a little bit of driving down the road I drove back into my driveway because I was scared to drive without headlights, and shut the car off. It hasn't started back up and now none of the lights or anything are working at all. We've tried jump starting the car, thinking maybe the battery was dead or the alternator went out, but the cables just started smoking and getting really hot. I really need to know how to proceed to find this short, will I have to look at all the wires in the car? Or is it possible to just use the fuse box? My knowledge of electric in a car is very limited, though I do know the basic mechanics.