Jeep - Grandcherokee :: Tire Pressure Light Pops On When Temp Drops Below A Certain Level
Jun 28, 2016
I inherited a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee from my late father and it seems like whenever the temperature overnight drops below a certain level, in the morning the low tire pressure light pops on. I never encountered this problem with any other car I owned, is this something inherent to SUV's with all wheel drive?
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My '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Laredo, 6 cyl). The AC, when set on the vent outlets that blow at chest level, will shift to defrost when accelerating or going up hill. It returns to the proper setting when you leave off the gas feed.One can hear the blend doors changing. I am mystified, because I thought that vacuum operated blend doors went out decades ago.
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The ambient (outside) temperature sensor on my 04 jeep grand cherokee is now stuck in the open position (it reads -40 constantly) after having body work done to it. Could this be a fuse, loose wires, or is the senor broken? Also could this have been damaged by the body shop?
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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2007 Grand Cherokee - no previous problem - no work done in last year.No engine crank - brief dash msg of "transmission over temp" - then msg disappears and vehicle is silent when key turned.Has happened 4xs in the past 2 weeks. Sometimes will start after a few minutes other times will not start until 24 hours later.Tuesday drove 20 miles no problem. Stopped car for 2 hours went out to restart and nothing but silence. Brief dash msg of transmission over temp.Had vehicle towed to dealer. Tow truck driver had never heard of this problem and it did the same thing for him. Dealer had jeep for two days and can find no problem. Started right up for dealer. No fault codes.
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I have aftermarket wheels and the tire pressure sensors have been transferred over. Since I went from the stock 17" wheels to 20" wheels, I had to increase the tire pressure from 32 to about 38.
1) I'm assuming that since the pressure is now higher with the 20" wheels, the tire pressure sensor won't warn me unless it drops below a really low level (maybe somewhere around 28 psi). Is there any way I can set a higher threshold so that they come on at around 36 psi?
2) The tire shop that installed the wheels transferred over the sensor, but I'm not sure if they actually work since the warning light has ever came on. Do I need to take the car to the dealership for them to start working again?
Based on the my research, some people are saying that only the dealer can reset the TPS so they can start working again. Others are saying that I can reset it myself, but does this reset actually raise the threshold?
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, replaced the oil pump with a new one and washed oil pan and replace the pump screen. After driving for about 30 minutes when at an idle/low speed the oils pressure goes low enough to set the check engine light on. The motor sound good sometime there is a little clacker, oil sending unit replaced and have installed a mechanical gauge... What else will cause this?
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So, I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Orvis edition) with about 270,000 miles. It still runs great and has been really useful in the snow this winter. A couple days ago the power steering pressure hose blew. My mechanic wants to replace it, but I can get a replacement hose locally. Is there any reason I shouldn't just do this myself. Do I need to worry about the fluid sprayed around the engine? The serpentine belt is only a few months old and squeaked only a little on the three mile drive to get it home.
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New quirk in my '04 Overland, 133K miles. When driving, it feels like I am getting some "wrap up" in the drive line. What I mean is that, when there is even the slightest amount of throttle pressure, and it is let off, there is a perceptible slight pull or surge feeling to the right. When even light throttle pressure is applied again, it will pull back left again. No driveline noises, clunks, shimmies, etc. , just the feel of the car sort of torqueing when there is pressure added or removed from the power train. It is more of a "seat of the pants" feel than in the steering. My guess is that it may be a suspension link or bushing in the rear ended gone, although I do have some fear about maybe the limited slip unit in the rear differential acting up, as I hear these can be prone to issues.
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120,000 miles. The engine light came on and I took it in for service. The catalytic converter was defective and replaced. After service and 30 miles the light came back on. They erased the memory. After 35 miles the light came back on. So far I have returned 4 times and they cannot find the problem.
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So this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
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My car's driver's side tire looks almost flat as one of my co-workers indicated first but the tire pressure light is NOT on. Should I worry about it and get it checked out?
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My low tire light is on my 2009 VW Sportwagen SE 2.5. The tires are inflated properly even the spare tire and yet the light is still on.
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Do cold weathers cause tires to deflate? On my way to school today I noticed the tire pressure light. I've had the car only for 3-4 weeks. Never had any issues with it.
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
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The tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
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Ok, so I'm getting the typical P2181 Cooling system performance. So i replaced my t-stat and ect sensor but no change. When i'm looking at my mvb's in 01 and 17 they're reading the same. I check my hose temp and both upper and lower are similar in heat. I can watch the temp rise in the mvb's till the fans kick on and the temp will drop.
Now, at start up it'll literally take about 9-12 min to warm up in this 20 degree weather. I was driving home tonight and got off I-5 and at the light with the heat on I watched the temp gauge drop from operating temp to almost the notch above cold, and I could feel the heat cool down coming out of the vents.
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