My 1999 jeep grand Cherokee with 170000 miles with a straight line 6 cilinder has a knocking noise coming from the valve cover area. It is only present during a cold start and for about 2 to 3 minutes. Once it starts getting hot it stops. The engine runs fine it has lots of power and I do not have any other issues.
View 5 RepliesI just picked up a 2001 F350 with the 5.4L with 200k miles. When I test drove the thing the engine sounded fine. I got it home and noticed that it occasionally has a loud knocking noise that is coming from the Left Valve cover area. It sounds like an old Chevy 6.5L Diesel ...
It comes and goes, Hot or Cold. It seems like it usually goes away when driving with RPMs above 1500 or so, however I took off with it yesterday and the noise would not go away, it seems like it might be low on power when the noise comes on, but then again it always feels low on power, so who knows.
I have changed the plugs, oil, and verified there are no exhaust leaks at the manifolds.
Here is a video of the noise: YouTube....
I dont think it is the timing chain, as it seems like its coming more from the center of the cover, when placing my hand on the cover near the timing set there is no vibration or anything that would lead me to believe its the chain.
All of my searching so far turns up 3V stuff, and little info on the 2V engines. The valve cover looks like a nightmare to get off, who have to work on these things (including me).
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee that, upon starting in the morning, has a knocking noise coming from the front passenger-side wheel area. It only knocks when the car starts moving, and stops once I get up to 15-20 miles per hour. It ONLY does this when the car is cold. The noise does not occur throughout the day, only when I start it each morning. Is it something to do with the wheel bearing, but that does not seem to be the case.???
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
View 17 RepliesI have a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4w with a 5.2l, it has approx 145,000 miles. It leaks a little oil and when i recently checked it (level was good), it smelled of gas. It starts easy and runs great with no smoke and no knocking when shut down. I've read it could be anything from rings to a stuck injector. I drive it on short trips now, only occasionally going out of town. It is due for an oil change but I would like to have a solution before driving it more or getting the oil change.
View 11 RepliesJust picked up my BMP R32 last week. The car is MINT, only 25k on her, seriously probably one of the cleanest, stock mkiv r32's left. I got every single service record since brand new, all done by a Volkswagen dealer.
Only problem is, a knocking noise has just started to develop, coming from the front passenger area somewhere. It is only noticeable when I brake or let off the gas after accelerating, but definitely more noticeable when braking. At first I thought it was something rolling around in the door, but now it seems clearly suspension related, or a loose bolt or something?
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Just had my 40k service done, and also got an alignment done at the same time. On my way back from the dealer I noticed a knocking noise coming from the lower rear area of the car which is more noticeable when going over bumps. Its intermittent. Thinking something got messed up when they were doing the alignment? What this might be?
View 2 RepliesI have had a Jeep Grand Cherokee for about 4 years. Over the last year or so, I have been having coolant loss. At first, it was very little over the course of a month. Now it is about a half a gallon over a few days. We can't find any leaks. The oil does not appear milky. There is a bit of moisture under the valve cover. What could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesWe have an 07 Prius with around 150,000 miles on it.
A couple of weeks ago I noticed a slight knocking noise coming from the passenger front wheel area mainly when I was turning toward the right.
Question.......So when turning to the right, it first seemed to me that the right side would experience a heavier load. However, after further thought and applying some physics the inertia of the car would actually be putting a heavier load on the left side during a right turn. Which is correct?
Just trying to troubleshoot the noise/problem.
#1 when I apply the brakes, the noise doesn't change. I don't think it's brake related.
#2 the noise speeds up with speed, meaning that it's rotational.
#3 The noise does get louder when I am turning right but has know progressed into a constant noise going straight. During a left turn it subsided.
#4 I did take my floor jake and jaked the pass. front wheel up but didn't see anything broken or damaged. I couldn't rotate the tire though.
#5 I also had the tires rotated today and the noise got worse.
My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
View 2 RepliesIt's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
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I have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
...... 2010 Corolla LE 1.8L ...... View the video I uploaded ....... The noise is seems to be getting worse. My first thought is the bearings in the water pump may have failed. I'm also thinking that there isn't adequate lubrication near the gear assembly or the belt. Could there be a problem with the tension in the belt?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120,000 miles. The engine light came on and I took it in for service. The catalytic converter was defective and replaced. After service and 30 miles the light came back on. They erased the memory. After 35 miles the light came back on. So far I have returned 4 times and they cannot find the problem.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
When I drive over 55 i have a shaking through the car after driving for a while if you put it in reverse it feels like it is binding up and when you put it in park you can hear a thumping sound coming from the drive train i have replaced both cv shafts in the front (they were bad) and the passenger side hub. I am going to replace the ball joints with after market ones because it pulls to the right and the stock ones do not have a camfer adjustment is the binding a differential problem or a transfer case problem also if while the engine is off if you shift to neutral you can feel it release the tension on the drive train.
View 2 Replies2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Limited--4.7 V8: when the car is turned off--there are sounds coming from the dash--passenger's side--like escaping air--like a whoopee cushion--maybe for one minute. Is this the AC system---or air bag or ???
View 4 RepliesVehicle has been in the shop several times within one month( Battery test, replace accelerate idle switch, rear end replace) latest dilemma is with a constant clicking sound coming from under/ near dashboard on passenger side . No interior lights. All this occurs before I turn over the ignition. On some occasions if I enter the vehicle and don't hear the constant clicking sound. Whola, the vehicle starts every time. I disconnect the battery cable when coming in over night. 1997 112,000 miles.
View 12 Repliesso I have a 2azfe engine
So there's an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket (just purchased vehicle dirt cheap with 220k)
found this
Notice all the oil sitting on top of the exhaust mani gasket
In the left(lower) part of the picture it appears to be scraped.
the gasket appears to be newer, I did NOT use a screw driver to remove the valve cover, which is what this appears to have been done..
Can this be sanded down then filled with jb weld, and then regasketed?
I have a 99 passat 2.8 v6, that closing on 200k miles, and its a car i'd really like to keep, lately i've had a few leaks coming from valve cover gasket, which i replaced, and now from the front drivers cam, and the rear passenger cam, the smell is terrible and the smoke is worse, i clean out the pcv but its still happening, i talked to a mechanic he says with that many miles i should just do the timing belt and get the seals done.
View 19 RepliesWent over a bump on the highway the other day and heard a loud noice as if I was dragging something under the car. I checked but nothing was there. It reminded me of putting a baseball card in your spokes of your bike when you were a kid. It happened twice and the weird thing is that if I put it into reverse and drive about 10ft The problem went away. But something still seems loose and it sounds like it will happen again. I was googling this and it seems like the noise was around where the center differential or drive shaft?
2006 Jeep grand cherokee