Jeep - Grandcherokee :: Engine Occasionally Run Rough At Idle / Low Rpm Before Stalling
Mar 29, 2015
I've got a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cyl. engine, ~145k miles. A few weeks ago, I noticed the engine would occasionally run rough at idle, dropping down to a low rpm (~500 rpm, but erratic) for a few seconds before stalling. This usually happens when in park or stopped at a stoplight, but it's occasionally happened at low speed while coasting to a stop (never while accelerating, or while traveling above 20 mph or so). Generally, the car will restart right away, though sometimes I have wait a few seconds to a minute (I was a real popular guy at that intersection).
At first, no codes came up, so I changed the plugs and wires (I was due anyway). That didn't work. (The plugs, while worn, looked normal to me-no residue). I've since had a P0351 code pop up. Before I throw parts at this code (ignition coil, I believe), is there anything else I should be looking into?
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 with about 150,000 miles. About every other day my car will shut off while I'm stopped at a light, stop sign, etc. The strange thing is that the radio and lights (stuff controlled by the battery I assume) does not turn off with the engine. It seems the frequency with which this happens has stayed about the same, and I haven't been too worried until yesterday when I went to start my car and it would not start. It just kept revving and seemed like it was very close to starting.
I opened the hood and saw a lot of corrosion on the battery and luckily I had a coke in the car. After pouring some coke and wiping away the corrosion, the car started up. I have had no problems since I did this yesterday. But like I said, my car engine seems to turn off without warning so it could happen next time I drive. If these two problems could be linked, that is the corrosion on the battery could have caused both the car not starting and the engine shutting off when the car is idling. I took to a mechanic about a month ago and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and, of course, it didn't shut off when they drove it.
View 1 Replies
I am experiencing engine stalling while driving my 1996 Grand Cherokee, after it went low on gas about 6 weeks ago.
View 1 Replies
Recently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 207,000 miles that has recently begun stalling while driving. Typically stalls at rest or when coming to a stop, and for a time it would re-start without issue. More recently it won't start readily after stalling, but will eventually start with enough key-turning persistsence. The check engine light comes on only after stalling and not restarting (but was not on previously), and often shuts off after a few miles of smooth running. I took it to my local mechanic who ran the computer codes and reported a malfunctioning cam shaft position sensor (i question if this was the casuality of other problem), which they thought was the source of the stalling, but after replacement it is stalling more than ever. It seems like the local mechanic group won't diagnose anything in this high mile Jeep without a computer code and I am reluctant to bring it back.
What is the cause of the stalling / starting issue? I may be way off but was concerned about a clogged fuel filter or fuel injection problems.
Vehicle Details : 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L inline 6 207,000 miles. Regular maintenance, most miles highway (2 owners) All parts stock
View 2 Replies
We just bought an 1998 JGC Laredo and it ran fine for the first week, then started stalling. Our mechanic originally thought it was the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and replaced it, and we thought that solved the problem since it ran better. They made a comment at the time that the previous owner had been "chasing this problem for a while since most of the ignition parts had been replaced (computer, CPS, coil, etc)
In a few days though, it started stalling and we took it back to them. Note, no error codes, and the check engine light never came on. After scratching their heads for a while, the finally did a "wiggle test" on the wiring and found that one of the plugs on the computer was loose, and the plug itself needs to be replaced. I can easily make the car stall by just pushing down on the plug a little.
I temporarily have it working much better by using wire ties and securing the plug down to the computer, but at some point I will need to replace it. Make sure if you replace it, you get one from a Jeep with the same S/N on your computer. Jeep was very bad about making changes to the computers and systems and you could easily get an incompatible one.
View 2 Replies
I am having a problem with my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. When I stop at a light and I am in drive, it wants to stall. If I am in park or neutral - no problem.
View 3 Replies
The problem began with intermittent stalling and now the Jeep will not start at all (no spark). I have had the cap, rotor, primary ignition coil, crank sensor, cam position sensor and PCM replaced without any luck. The repair bills have been brutal. The garage has given up.
View 8 Replies
What is going on with my car! Anyways I am been having a reoccurring problem with my car that i cant seem to fix. I actually took it to a shop (MIDAS) and the mechanic left the car on for 20 minutes and even drove it around and said it ran fine, but of course on my way home it shuts off. But anyway car starts up fine but after being driven for15-20 minutes the car will shut off, usually at low to idle speeds (stop signs, etc). If i drive the car to work in the morning and leave at night i experience no problems.
Yet if i go to the gym and leave within a hour, i always expect the car to shut off on me so i assume something is being overheated? As far as when the car stalls, i am able to crank the car with no start, sometimes the car starts and turns off right away, sometimes it runs for a bit, and sometimes it wont start at all, only cranks. After 30 minutes the car will work again. When the car begins to shut down and stall, i've noticed if i apply gas i can keep the car half alive as if its trying to continue to work.
View 5 Replies
96 grand cherokee 4.0L- Randomly stalls or maybe I should say it randomly operates. Hot or cold it doesn't matter. Sometimes it will restart sometimes not, This has happened before and I replaced the computer- twice. It works fine for a while but I end up here again. What could be frying the computers. Is there a way to check the computer to see if it is malfunctioning?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
View 11 Replies
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, replaced the oil pump with a new one and washed oil pan and replace the pump screen. After driving for about 30 minutes when at an idle/low speed the oils pressure goes low enough to set the check engine light on. The motor sound good sometime there is a little clacker, oil sending unit replaced and have installed a mechanical gauge... What else will cause this?
View 18 Replies
My Jeep does not always start. All the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to start the engine, they all go off. The lights stay off, and the engine will not start. The ignition won't even click... it's similar to a dead battery. When I turn the key back to its original position (when first inserting), all the gauges spike and the needles jump really high for a split second. When the door is open the gauges keep jumping (spiking). After waiting for 30 minutes, the engine will start fine like nothing was wrong (except the fluctuation in idle). It would rev high at idle sometimes, and sometimes it would idle low... so low in fact the jeep stalls. I have read about the symptoms of crank/camshaft sensors and relay, but I wanted to make sure from people that know more than I or have faced this particular problem.
View 5 Replies
2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
View 1 Replies
This is a little odd. Over the last two years or so the van had developed a rough idle issue. When left to idle in Park or Neutral the roughness would usually lead to the engine stalling after a few minutes.This happened both in and out of gear but only when the engine was still cold, idle returned to normal once normal op temp had been reached. Cleaning the IAC got rid of the problem... sort of. Now it idles fine in Park or Neutral but when in gear and engine/tranny still cold it is still very rough.
When waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes the van shudders as it tries to lurch forward, the shaking is very noticeable even to those outside the van. This has become so bad I shift it into Neutral every time I need to stop at a traffic light, and it instantly settles into steady smooth idle at 800 rpm. However once the engine is warm everything returns to normal. Another thing I noticed is that when in gear and cold the roughness only occurs with brakes applied. Feels like whenever the roughness in the engine occurs the transmission attempts to override the brakes, which causes the lurching.
While the problem only lasts 5 to 10 minutes until op temp is reached it is nevertheless very annoying and driving me nuts. My main concern is that it may eventually cause damage to the transmission to be tugged at and jerked around in such a way. I am running out of reasonable explanations as tho what may be causing this and have begun elaborating more esoteric theories. My latest one is that since this only happens when the brakes are applied then the tiny voltage required to activate the brake lights is somehow causing some other electric part to fail, and that the rough idle is somewhat related to this. Shows you just how desperate I'm getting.
View 14 Replies
I own a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, and there has been an ongoing problem with it stalling. The check engine light is on and it reads codes about idle control sensor and 02 sensor. I spent a lot of money having both replaced, along with an processor. I had to bring my Jeep to a dealership so they could "marry" the processor to the car. The check engine light went out for about a day, then once the computer reset, light went back on. The codes still read bad O2 and idle sensor despite them being replaced.
The problem is when the car starts cold I have to keep my foot on the gas for a couple minutes or it will stall out. Once it has warmed up the car runs good. I turned the idle pin on the front of the throttle body to try to keep from having to put my foot on the gas but it still stalls. It seems like it is working better in the cold weather. My mechanic says that I may have turned the idle too far trying to fix it and that is why it is stalling.
I just want my car to run without having to warm it up every time. It wastes time and a lot of gas. Could it be something other then what I've already replaced? I don't want to keep replacing the same things and not have it fix the problem.
View 2 Replies
2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
View 2 Replies
01 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I just changed the water pump and the thermostat on the Jeep but the last two days when I drove it to work, the heater was blowing cold air and the engine was getting hot, almost to the red. What do you think that I should look into about getting the problem fixed>?
View 6 Replies
I have an issue with my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 Laredo that has been bothering me for a little over a year now. When the temperature gets warm out (over 80) and I am traveling on the interstate up a long hill (65-70 mph, towards the end of my commute so about 30 miles in or about 30 minutes) my engine randomly begins to sound like I am in the wrong gear (RPMs do not change but engine sounds like I just changed to second) and I loose quite a bit of torque. I can maintain my speed but my engine sound horrible. After about 10 minutes of this my engine goes back to normal and I can accelerate without issue. Then randomly it goes back to being loud with low torque. To add to the the fun, if this happens at any time during the day, the next day when I start my Jeep the issue resurfaces and I have no torque for about 10 minutes (5 miles) then all is well for the rest of my commute (40 miles downhill). I had a diagnostic scan done and they found nothing wrong and I also just got both of my exhaust manifolds replaces but the issue continues.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120,000 miles. The engine light came on and I took it in for service. The catalytic converter was defective and replaced. After service and 30 miles the light came back on. They erased the memory. After 35 miles the light came back on. So far I have returned 4 times and they cannot find the problem.
View 6 Replies
How to go about fixing my 1987 AMC eagle. I recently just purchased the service manual and am trying to figure out what I should repair first. I noticed a few weeks ago my car wouldn't idle in the cold.After bringing it to the shop multiple times it still does not run right. In fact, it seems to have gotten worse and has even died while going around 45 mph. Once it does die I find it very difficult to start. I have noticed some bad smells while trying to start it again sometimes gas..sometimes almost a burning rubber smell. (The belts are still in tact) Once it starts again it acts much like it had gotten flooded.
The motor seems to be fine and sounds good when running at proper temp. Recently, it will even die when the engine is all warmed up.Often when I get back in the car after driving it (while engine is still warm) I can turn it over almost instantaneously it doesn't necessarily sound good though. I noticed before all of this began that it would putter when going down a steep hill (or letting off of gas). Do I need to rebuild the carburetor ? Could it be as simple as a bad pcv valve? I have already put in 600+ into fixing this and no results. I am pretty convinced it some sort of fuel issue. I am also concerned the choke might be sticking and needs adjusting.
I brought it into the shop and they tightened the timing belt and secured some loose battery cables. They also said I needed to replace the battery which I then did. This did nothing to improve the how well my car ran. I brought it back and they replaced the distributor cap and adjusted the timing which apparently was way off. This did improve the performance of the vehicle but did not stop it from dying.
View 10 Replies
