Jeep - Grandcherokee :: Distinct Clapping Noise When Engine Is Not Up To Operating Temperature
Dec 24, 2011
I noticed that my Jeep has been making a distinct clapping noise any time the engine is not up to operating temperature. It sounds worst on cold mornings, but becomes quieter as the engine warms up. The noise is RPM dependent, so I'm assuming it has something to do with the engine. The noise is not audible when the engine is idling in park, but quickly shows up as soon as I put the car in gear and add gas. My father and I think that a slightly loose rocker might be the cause of the noise, but we're not sure. A mechanic friend of his told him that our jeep has self adjusting rockers so it can't really be fixed without replacing it. I've never heard of such a thing so I'm having a hard time believing it. The really confusing part is that it only makes noise when the car is in gear and the engine is under stress, making no noise when it's just idling, even when the engine is revved. Since purchasing it 5 years ago, we have been careful to do regular maintenance on our jeep so I'm somewhat surprised by it.
Vehicle Info:1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo~175000 miles4.0L I6 with stock 4 speed transmission Completely stock
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I have a distinct coolant smell inside my Jeep (2009, 60k miles). I popped the hood and couldn't spot any leaks nor was there any fluid underneath the vehicle. I took it into a mechanic and they smelled the same thing and put the coolant system under pressure (as well as doing a visual inspection), and could not find any leaks nor was there any evidence of fluid by the vents. They also noted that my coolant levels were still full and I had not added anything to the car. The current theory is a pinhole leak in the heater core (the smell is definitely worse after the car has been driven a bit).
I have had one suggestion to add Bar's Stop Leak to the radiator, but the mechanic said this was a Bad Idea (his argument being that since there was no visible leak in the system it would likely just gum things up). Since the vehicle seems to be otherwise operating fine, I'm hesitant to replace the heater core, but there's a good chance it's still under warranty, so I could go that route.
So, could it be something other than the heater core? Should I have that replaced or would the Stop Leak be a good idea?
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I have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 4.7 L. Clock from right side of engine immediately after starting engine. Seems to be in rhythm with engine and increases in frequency as I rev. Gradually subsides over first 5 minutes and not audible after that. Recent small leak of transmission fluid, but I'm thinking that has nothing to do with this.
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Sometimes, when the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't start up when I turn it off. For example, let's say on my way home I stop off in a supermarket to pick up some stuff. I'll come back out 20 minutes or so later, only to find out my car isn't starting. I'll turn the key and the engine will crank, shake and then immediately die on me [I'm under the impression the engine isn't even starting at this point because tapping the gas does nothing]. Again, this is a problem that is only happening sometimes. I can do the same routine tomorrow and it'll start up flawlessly.
1) This is only an intermittent problem. The problem doesn't seem to be occurring more frequently, but when it does happen, the engine is harder to start. For example, the first time this happened to me, I got it started after one or two tries. After my latest episode, it took me 11 tries to get it running!
2) After the engine does finally start, the engine will run really rough and shake a lot until I tap the gas a few times (which is leading me to believe this is some sort of fuel related problem [sometimes, the engine will start on one try, but will run rough until I tap the gas a few times]).
3) When the car is cold, it starts up flawlessly every time without fail.
4) The car runs mint! No hesitation or otherwise stalling, etc.
What I've done so far to try to remedy the problem:
1) Changed spark plugs
2) Fuel line cleaning/flush
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I have noticed lately that when my car is slowing down I hear a clapping noise in the engine. Its almost as if something is slapping something very fast and as soon as I speed up I can no longer hear it. Is this normal or should I be worried?
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I have a 6th Gen 2007 Toyota Camry with the 4 cylinder engine with 150,000 miles, original owner.
After changing the car battery, the engine idle when at operating temperature went from the stock 650 to 450 RPMs. The engine does not stall and runs amazingly smooth at 450, but the drive ability from start is jerky and the car will roll backwards in drive on a small grade while in drive.
Another tip, before this issue, when cold on start up the engine would rev to about 2,000 RPM's then slowly drop which I understood to be normal and part of the emissions system. Now it revs to about a 1,000 and quickly drops to 450.
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Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
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Idles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
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My best friend has a 2011 Ford F-250 6.7 ltd power stroke diesel XL. He was driving to Denver in -4 degree weather when all of a sudden his windows iced up and the temperature gage would not sit at normal operating range. ( stayed all the way down on the cool side) the heater seemed to be blowing warm air not hot like it usually does. The thermostat was changed 2 months ago any thoughts on this one?
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I have a 97 Ranger 2.3 standard shift, No A/C, a pretty simple Ranger with 158,000 miles. About a month ago while do some checking around under the hood I noticed my coolant overflow tank was empty, so I filled it up to the proper level with some anti-freeze mixture. Thinking if the system was low on anti-freeze it would suck what it needed from the recovery tank, wrong! About two weeks ago I noticed that my temperature gauge was NOT registering in its normal position and was considerably lower towards the Cold mark. Heat coming out of the heater was normal.
I opened the radiator cap and everything looked okay. After a few days this would not go away and replaced the thermostat thinking the thermostat was stuck in the open position, wrong again! I burped the system by letting the engine run with the radiator cap off and filled the radiator with anti-freeze mixture every time some of the air was expelled. I did this for a few days and noticed that the engine would not reach normal operating temperature at idle speed! I had to put something on the gas pedal to increase idle speed so the engine would get hot, this is not normal. Finally I got to a point where the radiator would not take anymore anti-freeze mixture, but the problem still exists.
Two things I noticed that will get the engine temperature up to normal, engine speed (RPM's) and not having the heater on. Let me explain, at normal idle the engine will not reach its proper temperature, but when driving down the highway the temperature goes up to normal (about halfway on the scale) no matter if the heat is on or not. When stopped at a light or just idling I can watch the gauge slowly go down towards the cold mark, if I turn off the heater it takes longer to go down to cold. I do know the heater fan is cooling the coolant to a degree (no pun intended), but it shouldn't cool it so much as to make the temperature drop so dramatically. Okay, heater off, riding down the highway, everything normal, come to a stop and idle temperature starts falling slowly, but when I turn on the heater the temperature starts falling faster.
My diagnosis: I have no leaks of anti-freeze, checked and re-checked. I have no symptoms of a blown head gasket, no milky white appearance on dip stick indicating anti-freeze mixing with engine oil, no clouds of white smoke coming out of exhaust, checked tail pipe for anti-freeze, none found, no loss of power and no loss of gas mileage. I changed the thermostat, like I said. Do not think it could be the radiator pressure cap, normally if the cap goes bad the system will have no pressure and the engine will overheat, the opposite of the problem. Water pump, normally if the water pumps goes the coolant will not circulate through engine and will over heat, again, not the problem I am having. Could it be:
1. A long shot, I bought a defective thermostat and it is still staying open.
2. The temperature sending unit has gone bad, very improbable since it does register the correct temperature when truck is moving down the highway.
3. The coolant is spent, again unlikely, it has been in the engine only for about 3 years and still looks clean and green.
4. Have to have a cylinder pressure check to determine actually if the head gasket is really blown or not, which I doubt.
My conclusion is that I still have a huge air lock somewhere in the system and the engine is still not completely filled with coolant and when the rpm's drop not enough hot coolant is reaching the temperature gauge sending unit, but if that much coolant is not in the system, why am I still getting lots of heat blowing from the heater? The vehicles cooling system is not that complicated and there are few parts involved in its proper operation, I think I have covered them all, but somewhere I am missing something to pin point my problem.
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Went over a bump on the highway the other day and heard a loud noice as if I was dragging something under the car. I checked but nothing was there. It reminded me of putting a baseball card in your spokes of your bike when you were a kid. It happened twice and the weird thing is that if I put it into reverse and drive about 10ft The problem went away. But something still seems loose and it sounds like it will happen again. I was googling this and it seems like the noise was around where the center differential or drive shaft?
2006 Jeep grand cherokee
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I am experiencing engine stalling while driving my 1996 Grand Cherokee, after it went low on gas about 6 weeks ago.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V6. I am ready to sell it but I have a problem and the problem only happens when I'm driving it. Every once in awhile..about 7 times a week, when I turn the key it will make a one click noise but not start. It then starts after the 2nd or 3rd try. I have now taken my Jeep to 3 car repair shops. It has never happened with any of them. They have checked the usual suspects: battery, alternator, and starter (I even had a new starter installed just in case) and everything checks out. My latest car repair guy has had it for 3 days and it starts every time. The last time I brought it home 10 minutes after I had cut my car off and got back in to go somewhere, it did it again. There is no consistency when this happens whatsoever.
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2004 GC, 6 cyc, 2wd. Had TERRIBLE noise & vibration when braking but problem was intermittent, no codes generated. Everybody suspected ABS problem. New pads, new rotors, new ABS module no luck. Frequency increased but severity decreased. Technician finally experienced one occurrence, identified & replaced a weak steering stabilizer. Problem has surfaced again but not so severe and appears to be increasing in frequency.
My best description is when braking from 45-50 mph, Vibration & noise begins at about 35 mph, increasing in intensity until about 18-20 mph then stops. Seems to me that the transmission downshifts and the noise stops. AMCO suggested a cracked flywheel or loose bolts on the torch converter. Also the engine idles at 1100-1200 rpm on start-up then goes to 850 rpm - will not go lower. Does this sound like a transmission problem? The transmission was rebuilt/replaced at about 94,000 miles and the problem started at about 111,000 miles.
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It was running on 7 cylinders and had not been tuned in probably 50,000 miles or more. I recently bought it at auction. Changed spark plugs and 1 coil for the dead cylinder. Rear cylinder on passenger side was not firing. Compression test shows 150 psi that cylinder. Fairly loud mechanical pecking from that area which was isolated with a stethoscope. I suspect a flat cam lobe or broken rocker arm.
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I recently began hearing a noise from my car when I change the temperature inside the vehicle. When I adjust my temperature control either direction, hotter or colder, I hear a temporary clicking noise that is pretty loud. It sounds like it is coming from behind the dash. It sounds mechanical and stops after a few seconds. I have a manual temperature dial. This is not a digital display or climate control. This is on a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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01 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I just changed the water pump and the thermostat on the Jeep but the last two days when I drove it to work, the heater was blowing cold air and the engine was getting hot, almost to the red. What do you think that I should look into about getting the problem fixed>?
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I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 with about 150,000 miles. About every other day my car will shut off while I'm stopped at a light, stop sign, etc. The strange thing is that the radio and lights (stuff controlled by the battery I assume) does not turn off with the engine. It seems the frequency with which this happens has stayed about the same, and I haven't been too worried until yesterday when I went to start my car and it would not start. It just kept revving and seemed like it was very close to starting.
I opened the hood and saw a lot of corrosion on the battery and luckily I had a coke in the car. After pouring some coke and wiping away the corrosion, the car started up. I have had no problems since I did this yesterday. But like I said, my car engine seems to turn off without warning so it could happen next time I drive. If these two problems could be linked, that is the corrosion on the battery could have caused both the car not starting and the engine shutting off when the car is idling. I took to a mechanic about a month ago and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and, of course, it didn't shut off when they drove it.
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I have an issue with my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 Laredo that has been bothering me for a little over a year now. When the temperature gets warm out (over 80) and I am traveling on the interstate up a long hill (65-70 mph, towards the end of my commute so about 30 miles in or about 30 minutes) my engine randomly begins to sound like I am in the wrong gear (RPMs do not change but engine sounds like I just changed to second) and I loose quite a bit of torque. I can maintain my speed but my engine sound horrible. After about 10 minutes of this my engine goes back to normal and I can accelerate without issue. Then randomly it goes back to being loud with low torque. To add to the the fun, if this happens at any time during the day, the next day when I start my Jeep the issue resurfaces and I have no torque for about 10 minutes (5 miles) then all is well for the rest of my commute (40 miles downhill). I had a diagnostic scan done and they found nothing wrong and I also just got both of my exhaust manifolds replaces but the issue continues.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120,000 miles. The engine light came on and I took it in for service. The catalytic converter was defective and replaced. After service and 30 miles the light came back on. They erased the memory. After 35 miles the light came back on. So far I have returned 4 times and they cannot find the problem.
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