Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 2006 - While Braking Extremely Long Thumping Sound With Shaking?
Jul 6, 2016
I own a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006 V8 4.7 with 133,000 miles. This week I went to a Quick Service Oil Change , after receiving an oil change they informed me I needed a Differential Fluid Change , that I "should have " had one at my last visit and couldn't wait any longer. After receiving the two , I left and not even fifteen minutes later , I attempted to use my breaks approaching the end of the highway.
Instantly the car started making an extremely long banging / thumping sounds along with the a lot of shaking and the car proceed to dead right there. I got it towed home , the company is supposed to send some one to come do a once over. What it could be? As sad as it sounds, I have a feeling they will do a look over and claim they don't know what is wrong or that it isn't there fault in any way.
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When I drive over 55 i have a shaking through the car after driving for a while if you put it in reverse it feels like it is binding up and when you put it in park you can hear a thumping sound coming from the drive train i have replaced both cv shafts in the front (they were bad) and the passenger side hub. I am going to replace the ball joints with after market ones because it pulls to the right and the stock ones do not have a camfer adjustment is the binding a differential problem or a transfer case problem also if while the engine is off if you shift to neutral you can feel it release the tension on the drive train.
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So I noticed when it started getting cold that my Jeep emits this extremely high pitched whistling sound and I can't figure out what's going on. I've taken it to two mechanics and both said it was a belt that needed to be replaced so I had the belt replaced and the noise persisted. I've noticed a few things about the noise, it only happens when it is approximately 30 degrees outside or lower; only while the car is idling (when I accelerate the noise goes away immediately); It only happens after I've gone above approximately 30mph; The noise will go away after I've gone through a series of idling and accelerating; and stops immediately once I turn the car off. The Jeep is almost up to 150,000 miles.
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I have a 2006 Grand Cherokee and since I bought the car used the rear right brake has squealed despite having the breaks replaced and serviced twice. I have had the car for less than a year. Recently I have noticed a bit of a shake/thud while I'm driving at speeds lower than 45mph. It almost feels like I have a flat tire, despite all of my tires being properly inflated. I do not have to be pressing the brake to feel the shake, however I do feel the vibrations in the brake pedal. What could be the problem and could it be dangerous?
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I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee with 225,000 miles (hooyah!) on an I-6 . After driving for long distances (at least an hour on the road) then idling for extended periods of time, it seems it starts misfiring. RPMs drop to about 500 and will not rev past 1200 without dying completely.
This has happened a few times in the following scenario:We have 3 kids and often visit family out of state. We'll drive for several hours before pulling off at a rest area. To minimize the amount of time spent off the road and to save the hassle of unloading/loading all the kids, we'll leave the car running (to keep heat/cool air in) and either myself or my wife will run in to use the restroom and get snacks. The vehicle may idle for 10 minutes before the issue presents itself. It seems that if we turn the vehicle off and rest for a few (3-5) minutes, the problem will resolve itself and we can be on our way with no more issues.
Check Engine light is on but only throws a code for an EVAP leak. I don't know a whole lot about cars. I thought it could be time to replace spark plugs but this issue doesn't happen often and it seems only in these specific circumstances.
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I'm having an issue with my 93 Grand Cherokee with 193k miles.
The RPMs will fluxuate and even drop to 0 at times and the whole Jeep with shudder and shake and then the RPMs will return back to normal. It could just drop down once, or several times in a row. I've even had it completely die a few times and I'll have to restart it. It's the worst when idling or driving slowly, like through a drive through or a parking lot, but the Jeep will still give a small jerk at times during acceleration as if it's trying to do it but can't completely.
I know next to nothing about cars but I have a friend who has assisted me with few things. We changed the fuel filter which he said looked like it may have been the stock fuel filter. He hooked up his compressor and blew all kinds of black garbage out of it and concluded it definitely needed a new one. He told me just to run it and see how it did, which it did fine for awhile but today it seemed to be acting the worst ever with it shaking and shuddering and trying to die but it didn't. He also looked at the spark plugs and told me that while they were aged they didn't look bad enough to be worth the money replacing...
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2004 GC, 6 cyc, 2wd. Had TERRIBLE noise & vibration when braking but problem was intermittent, no codes generated. Everybody suspected ABS problem. New pads, new rotors, new ABS module no luck. Frequency increased but severity decreased. Technician finally experienced one occurrence, identified & replaced a weak steering stabilizer. Problem has surfaced again but not so severe and appears to be increasing in frequency.
My best description is when braking from 45-50 mph, Vibration & noise begins at about 35 mph, increasing in intensity until about 18-20 mph then stops. Seems to me that the transmission downshifts and the noise stops. AMCO suggested a cracked flywheel or loose bolts on the torch converter. Also the engine idles at 1100-1200 rpm on start-up then goes to 850 rpm - will not go lower. Does this sound like a transmission problem? The transmission was rebuilt/replaced at about 94,000 miles and the problem started at about 111,000 miles.
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The sound is random, inside the cabin, probably comes from in front of the driver. Lasts for a few seconds but goes on repeatedly. I found that when I apply the brakes, even a gently tap, the sound goes away, but will return.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 87000 miles, 6. I have this sound, sounds like the lifters,but it goes away and comes back on ,goes away,come s back. My mechanic said it could be exhaust manifold ,not her says lifters. My main mechanic told me to change my oil to 20/50 and put in STP oil treatment. that did not work,then told me about another oil treatments?
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Vehicle has been in the shop several times within one month( Battery test, replace accelerate idle switch, rear end replace) latest dilemma is with a constant clicking sound coming from under/ near dashboard on passenger side . No interior lights. All this occurs before I turn over the ignition. On some occasions if I enter the vehicle and don't hear the constant clicking sound. Whola, the vehicle starts every time. I disconnect the battery cable when coming in over night. 1997 112,000 miles.
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I have an issue with my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 Laredo that has been bothering me for a little over a year now. When the temperature gets warm out (over 80) and I am traveling on the interstate up a long hill (65-70 mph, towards the end of my commute so about 30 miles in or about 30 minutes) my engine randomly begins to sound like I am in the wrong gear (RPMs do not change but engine sounds like I just changed to second) and I loose quite a bit of torque. I can maintain my speed but my engine sound horrible. After about 10 minutes of this my engine goes back to normal and I can accelerate without issue. Then randomly it goes back to being loud with low torque. To add to the the fun, if this happens at any time during the day, the next day when I start my Jeep the issue resurfaces and I have no torque for about 10 minutes (5 miles) then all is well for the rest of my commute (40 miles downhill). I had a diagnostic scan done and they found nothing wrong and I also just got both of my exhaust manifolds replaces but the issue continues.
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I get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....
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'94 Ranger 4x2. Recent new brakes front and rear, installed by a garage who was also doing my clutch a few months ago. Not long after brake job, slightly detectable 'thump thump thumping' sound during braking. At first I thought possible stuck caliper/warped front rotor, but vibration was not in the steering wheel, and as sound grew increasingly louder, seems to be coming from right rear brakes.
ABS light appeared once, but after adding a small amount of brake fluid to master cylinder, has not reappeared. No other brake related idiot lights, and truck brakes quickly and straight. Pedal could possibly be firmer, however.
Took my rig back to the shop, since brakes were supposedly "guaranteed for six months". Out of business, no forwarding address or phone number!
So I decided to bleed the rear brakes. Haynes manual says bleed RABS valve first, then proceed to rear brake bleeders. Found RABS on rail frame, dust cap still on bleeder, (cap was very dusty and difficult to pop off) looks like shop never removed it or bled it! Had to remove its electrical connector to access the 7/8" bleeder nut with a box wrench.When I tried to bleed it, NOTHING came out. Neither air nor brake fluid. Moved on to rear brake bleeders. Normal. Bled 1/2 pint from each, as I topped off the master cylinder. I have not yet removed either drum to inspect.
Long story short, does the RABS valve on a '94 Ranger rear wheel only ABS need to be plugged in to be able to be bled? Do I need to have the ignition 'ON' while doing so? (I thought only '95 and up needed the Ford factory code reader to bleed four wheel only ABS valve?) And can the thing fail without setting the ABS warning light, and allow the rear brakes to still (noisily) work ?
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When accelerating and/or braking, a thumping or knocking noise comes from the rear of the car. I do not believe it's my shocks, as there is no noise when going over bumps, only accelerating and stopping. What may be the cause? Control arms maybe?
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Hearing a sloshing scraping thumping sound coming from their 36 gallon tank under hard braking accelerating? It's loudest when the tank is between 200 and 150 miles to empty, I checked the spare tire and its tight, haven't had a chance to crawl under and look around yet though, I think something inside came loose. 2013 XLT.
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I recently had new brake pads put on my van. Right before the pad replacement, I noticed a slight thumping sensation under my foot when I would decelerate, but before applying the brakes.
Now, and each day continuing to worsen, the thumping is almost constant, and more prominent when I am slowing down, and when I am turning to the right (less noticeable when I turn left). My steering wheel also starting to shake heavily. Today the engine light came on.
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with about 65k miles on it. The brakes were replaced 3 weeks ago, and then I took it into a local tire shop for an oil change/inspection. They did not note a single thing. I did ask them how the struts were looking and they said they were fine. This past summer when I had to have a flat repair done at Les Schwabs, they told me I needed new brakes, rotors and struts.
I could not afford that, so my father in law replaced my brake pads with ceramic ones, and the rotors look fine. So when I was told by the most recent shop that my struts were fine, I assumed something else was happening, but have not taken it to my local shop yet. I guess I am looking for a heads up because this could not come at a worse time financially.
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I have a 2010 Elantra Touring, manual transmission. At about 30,000 miles it developed an odd feature which continues through the present time with just under 50,000 miles. At any speed and on any road from time to time I suddenly get a loud interior noise like driving right next to a train running on a track. There is no vibration, just a very loud rumbling sound drowning out the radio. Goes away after a few minutes, does not recur on the same piece of road, same temperature, or same time of day. When it first occurred the dealer inspected it and though they could not hear it they divined that the aftermarket cruise control mounting bracket had become loose and was vibrating. They tightened it and the sound went away for a year but is now back louder than ever. I checked the bracket and it is tight and the dealer can find nothing loose. The bumper to bumper warranty is about to expire. I am thinking a crack in a steel bearing surface or a bad weld causing a vibration running through the body. Again I feel no actual vibration through the steering wheel.
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After my 2006 Ford F150 Lariet started shaking and pulsating when braking (38,000 miles) I took the truck to the Ford dealer and asked to have my brake pads checked. They came back and siad they looked fine and I had alot of wear left. Then I mentioned that is was shaking and asked them to check it again, they drove it and then said my rotors are warped and I need to replace the rotors and pads. I don't haul, tow or do anything crazy with it.
Now, here's my questions:
1. Can the rotors go bad and the brake pads be fine?
2. Should I go with a ceramic pad or stick with the OEM?
I'm just a female and don't want to be taken advantage of at the dealers. Cost is not an issue when purchasing a good product.
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I have a chirping/ squeaking sound in the engine extremely noticeable on idle. It's not the actual belt because it continues the noise much after the car is heated up. Have no clue what it is, I have 145000 miles. Also when running the engine hard notice a hissing sound sort of like turbo at high rpms especially with ac on high.
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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My wife says our 2002 Grand Jeep Cherokee very rarely hesitates as it moves from first to second gear (once every week at most). I've never felt the problem, but she says its happens when from a dead stop into 2nd gear. And she said there are no other times when the vehicle hesitates (fine in every other gear). No other weird noises and the power seems fine. Its an automatic transmission and I've had the fluid and filter changed recently. What it is? Transmission? It is due for some new spark plugs... any chance it could be that?
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