Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 2004 Starts Intermittently / Rev High At Idle Sometimes
Feb 24, 2014
My Jeep does not always start. All the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to start the engine, they all go off. The lights stay off, and the engine will not start. The ignition won't even click... it's similar to a dead battery. When I turn the key back to its original position (when first inserting), all the gauges spike and the needles jump really high for a split second. When the door is open the gauges keep jumping (spiking). After waiting for 30 minutes, the engine will start fine like nothing was wrong (except the fluctuation in idle). It would rev high at idle sometimes, and sometimes it would idle low... so low in fact the jeep stalls. I have read about the symptoms of crank/camshaft sensors and relay, but I wanted to make sure from people that know more than I or have faced this particular problem.
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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I have an '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has twice had issues with hesitating while driving (like it's not getting gas--tank is full), then starts rattling, then dies. I had it towed to the shop 3 weeks ago. "loss of cam or crank sensor misfire codes found loose connection at pcm, connector 4, re-attach connector to lock position, erase codes". Picked it up after work was done. When driving it to work two days ago, the same exact situation presented. Had it towed again to shop. They're saying they ran it all day and cannot get any codes to come up and that 90% of the time it's the cam sensor. He also said 1/3 of the time (math issues) it's the computer. How can you know if it's the cam sensor or the computer?
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
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I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 with about 150,000 miles. About every other day my car will shut off while I'm stopped at a light, stop sign, etc. The strange thing is that the radio and lights (stuff controlled by the battery I assume) does not turn off with the engine. It seems the frequency with which this happens has stayed about the same, and I haven't been too worried until yesterday when I went to start my car and it would not start. It just kept revving and seemed like it was very close to starting.
I opened the hood and saw a lot of corrosion on the battery and luckily I had a coke in the car. After pouring some coke and wiping away the corrosion, the car started up. I have had no problems since I did this yesterday. But like I said, my car engine seems to turn off without warning so it could happen next time I drive. If these two problems could be linked, that is the corrosion on the battery could have caused both the car not starting and the engine shutting off when the car is idling. I took to a mechanic about a month ago and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and, of course, it didn't shut off when they drove it.
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So I noticed when it started getting cold that my Jeep emits this extremely high pitched whistling sound and I can't figure out what's going on. I've taken it to two mechanics and both said it was a belt that needed to be replaced so I had the belt replaced and the noise persisted. I've noticed a few things about the noise, it only happens when it is approximately 30 degrees outside or lower; only while the car is idling (when I accelerate the noise goes away immediately); It only happens after I've gone above approximately 30mph; The noise will go away after I've gone through a series of idling and accelerating; and stops immediately once I turn the car off. The Jeep is almost up to 150,000 miles.
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cyl. engine, ~145k miles. A few weeks ago, I noticed the engine would occasionally run rough at idle, dropping down to a low rpm (~500 rpm, but erratic) for a few seconds before stalling. This usually happens when in park or stopped at a stoplight, but it's occasionally happened at low speed while coasting to a stop (never while accelerating, or while traveling above 20 mph or so). Generally, the car will restart right away, though sometimes I have wait a few seconds to a minute (I was a real popular guy at that intersection).
At first, no codes came up, so I changed the plugs and wires (I was due anyway). That didn't work. (The plugs, while worn, looked normal to me-no residue). I've since had a P0351 code pop up. Before I throw parts at this code (ignition coil, I believe), is there anything else I should be looking into?
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Recently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, replaced the oil pump with a new one and washed oil pan and replace the pump screen. After driving for about 30 minutes when at an idle/low speed the oils pressure goes low enough to set the check engine light on. The motor sound good sometime there is a little clacker, oil sending unit replaced and have installed a mechanical gauge... What else will cause this?
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My jeep will randomly just loose engine power the rpms just drop off completely. Sometimes the whole car goes off but not always sometimes just engine power then it wil kick back in after a few secs...... I have been looking everywhere see that it looks like a common problem but whole bunch of fixes.
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I own a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, and there has been an ongoing problem with it stalling. The check engine light is on and it reads codes about idle control sensor and 02 sensor. I spent a lot of money having both replaced, along with an processor. I had to bring my Jeep to a dealership so they could "marry" the processor to the car. The check engine light went out for about a day, then once the computer reset, light went back on. The codes still read bad O2 and idle sensor despite them being replaced.
The problem is when the car starts cold I have to keep my foot on the gas for a couple minutes or it will stall out. Once it has warmed up the car runs good. I turned the idle pin on the front of the throttle body to try to keep from having to put my foot on the gas but it still stalls. It seems like it is working better in the cold weather. My mechanic says that I may have turned the idle too far trying to fix it and that is why it is stalling.
I just want my car to run without having to warm it up every time. It wastes time and a lot of gas. Could it be something other then what I've already replaced? I don't want to keep replacing the same things and not have it fix the problem.
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2004 GC, 6 cyc, 2wd. Had TERRIBLE noise & vibration when braking but problem was intermittent, no codes generated. Everybody suspected ABS problem. New pads, new rotors, new ABS module no luck. Frequency increased but severity decreased. Technician finally experienced one occurrence, identified & replaced a weak steering stabilizer. Problem has surfaced again but not so severe and appears to be increasing in frequency.
My best description is when braking from 45-50 mph, Vibration & noise begins at about 35 mph, increasing in intensity until about 18-20 mph then stops. Seems to me that the transmission downshifts and the noise stops. AMCO suggested a cracked flywheel or loose bolts on the torch converter. Also the engine idles at 1100-1200 rpm on start-up then goes to 850 rpm - will not go lower. Does this sound like a transmission problem? The transmission was rebuilt/replaced at about 94,000 miles and the problem started at about 111,000 miles.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L nonHO. I get a P0308 code that I have not been able to hunt down. It is odd because I only get the code if I restart the vehicle when it is warm. If I let it cool down all the way, no code, but if I restart after an hour or so, the code pops up. I have changed the plugs and the coil. I have run injector cleaner, but not changed the injector as I am nervous about busting the tiny plastic clips with my big meaty paws.
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The ambient (outside) temperature sensor on my 04 jeep grand cherokee is now stuck in the open position (it reads -40 constantly) after having body work done to it. Could this be a fuse, loose wires, or is the senor broken? Also could this have been damaged by the body shop?
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 87000 miles, 6. I have this sound, sounds like the lifters,but it goes away and comes back on ,goes away,come s back. My mechanic said it could be exhaust manifold ,not her says lifters. My main mechanic told me to change my oil to 20/50 and put in STP oil treatment. that did not work,then told me about another oil treatments?
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I have recently cleaned my throttle body and still have a rough idle. The rough idle is intermittent and especially occurs when I am in park and then hold on the brake and switch to reverse or forward without pressing the accelerator down and let it sit for a second. When it happens, it is usually so rough it wants to just stall out if I don't give it some gas.
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New quirk in my '04 Overland, 133K miles. When driving, it feels like I am getting some "wrap up" in the drive line. What I mean is that, when there is even the slightest amount of throttle pressure, and it is let off, there is a perceptible slight pull or surge feeling to the right. When even light throttle pressure is applied again, it will pull back left again. No driveline noises, clunks, shimmies, etc. , just the feel of the car sort of torqueing when there is pressure added or removed from the power train. It is more of a "seat of the pants" feel than in the steering. My guess is that it may be a suspension link or bushing in the rear ended gone, although I do have some fear about maybe the limited slip unit in the rear differential acting up, as I hear these can be prone to issues.
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 4.7 L. Clock from right side of engine immediately after starting engine. Seems to be in rhythm with engine and increases in frequency as I rev. Gradually subsides over first 5 minutes and not audible after that. Recent small leak of transmission fluid, but I'm thinking that has nothing to do with this.
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So as I was parking my car and I accidentally stalled it. So anyway I return to the car 20 minutes later to leave and when I start it up I notice the engine is idling at 2000 rpm and is making a loud hissing noise from the drivers side on the engine (I think). When I rev the engine it is slow to come back down to the 2000 rpm idle. When I put the car in gear and drive it, it likes to stay at 2000 rpm.
The car will accelerate without me pushing the gas pedal until it reaches 2000 rpm. Also when I shut the engine off, it sputters and coughs, almost like a backfiring motorcycle but rhythmically slowing down until it finally stops (around 3 seconds or so from when I turn the key off). The check engine light is OFF and the car is still "driveable" (I got it home) and typically idles around 900 rpm I think..
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I have a 2000 X V10 and am having an intermittent high idle condition. I have searched the forums and found some useful info but nothing that addresses this issue. Here's what I've done. New IAC, found PCV valve hose leaking-replaced also new valve, found another vacuum leak-repaired, tested TPS and that was fine according to the specs I found. So here's my problem-upon starting engine occasionally "stumbles" then roars to life idles 8-1100rpm. Drives well till stopping at an intersection and idles 1100-1200 rpm.(lots of brake) Can pull into parking spot place in park and will idle up 1500-1800 rpm and then only drop to 1200 or so. I have checked everything I know. ALL these idle conditions are INTERMITTENT. (and yes I did check for codes "0" ) There is no loss of power.
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So my F150 (with 4r70w) has a weird issue. If I jump on it (only briefly) and then drive normally it gets stuck in a high idle/late shift mode. Sometimes it won't even shift until 3500 - 4000 RPM. If I stop and restart it will usually go back to normal (depending on how warm the tranny is, the warmer it is, the less likely to fix on restart). Now I understand that if you give it a lot of gas it will shift later, but like I said, it get's stuck in this mode even if I have a light foot after. The really weird thing is that it does this after cruising on the highway for a while. Also, the OD light does not flash.
As I'm writing this, I just realized that a common thing is warm tranny fluid. I'm not sure if it's the tranny because the high idle and the fact that it will shift fine if babied. There are no codes.
Here's what I've done: Flushed tranny fluid and filter (full flush, not just the little bit with the filter change), replaced TPS, replaced PCV, replaced IAC valve, replaced a few vac lines, and cleaned entire throttle body (including EGR valve).
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