Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 2004 - Intermittent P0308 Code Comes On
Dec 30, 2015
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L nonHO. I get a P0308 code that I have not been able to hunt down. It is odd because I only get the code if I restart the vehicle when it is warm. If I let it cool down all the way, no code, but if I restart after an hour or so, the code pops up. I have changed the plugs and the coil. I have run injector cleaner, but not changed the injector as I am nervous about busting the tiny plastic clips with my big meaty paws.
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The problem began with intermittent stalling and now the Jeep will not start at all (no spark). I have had the cap, rotor, primary ignition coil, crank sensor, cam position sensor and PCM replaced without any luck. The repair bills have been brutal. The garage has given up.
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I get more or less constant wine-like odor in the salon, as well as intermittent burning match (sulphur?) one. These seem to be seeping from the outside, through the ventilation system. The car has a new radiator, and the heater core, there are no apparent coolant leaks.
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My daughter's Jeep check engine light is on. Trying to get the car inspected so cannot be ignored. I think the code wasP0422, indicating it needed a new gas cap. We bought a new gas cap, cleared the code and it went away for a few days but before she could get it inspected, the light came on again. I saw similar problems suggestions were to get a better gas cap (we got one at autozone), or it could be something like a pump problem. We haven't taken to a dealer - it's a 2001
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Started as I was warming up the truck,a slight vibration/shudder. First thing that came to mind was F150. Torqued words of wisdom that it might come back, I had a p0301 before. Had no CEL, so decided to drive it to see if it got worse. Turned onto the main road and on came the CEL. Pulled into my FORD dealer, told him about my problem. Code P0308 misfire on #8cylinder was the read out, COP was done and the plug. 40 min of labor. She's even quieter than when #1 got changed.
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
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2004 GC, 6 cyc, 2wd. Had TERRIBLE noise & vibration when braking but problem was intermittent, no codes generated. Everybody suspected ABS problem. New pads, new rotors, new ABS module no luck. Frequency increased but severity decreased. Technician finally experienced one occurrence, identified & replaced a weak steering stabilizer. Problem has surfaced again but not so severe and appears to be increasing in frequency.
My best description is when braking from 45-50 mph, Vibration & noise begins at about 35 mph, increasing in intensity until about 18-20 mph then stops. Seems to me that the transmission downshifts and the noise stops. AMCO suggested a cracked flywheel or loose bolts on the torch converter. Also the engine idles at 1100-1200 rpm on start-up then goes to 850 rpm - will not go lower. Does this sound like a transmission problem? The transmission was rebuilt/replaced at about 94,000 miles and the problem started at about 111,000 miles.
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The ambient (outside) temperature sensor on my 04 jeep grand cherokee is now stuck in the open position (it reads -40 constantly) after having body work done to it. Could this be a fuse, loose wires, or is the senor broken? Also could this have been damaged by the body shop?
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My Jeep does not always start. All the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to start the engine, they all go off. The lights stay off, and the engine will not start. The ignition won't even click... it's similar to a dead battery. When I turn the key back to its original position (when first inserting), all the gauges spike and the needles jump really high for a split second. When the door is open the gauges keep jumping (spiking). After waiting for 30 minutes, the engine will start fine like nothing was wrong (except the fluctuation in idle). It would rev high at idle sometimes, and sometimes it would idle low... so low in fact the jeep stalls. I have read about the symptoms of crank/camshaft sensors and relay, but I wanted to make sure from people that know more than I or have faced this particular problem.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 87000 miles, 6. I have this sound, sounds like the lifters,but it goes away and comes back on ,goes away,come s back. My mechanic said it could be exhaust manifold ,not her says lifters. My main mechanic told me to change my oil to 20/50 and put in STP oil treatment. that did not work,then told me about another oil treatments?
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New quirk in my '04 Overland, 133K miles. When driving, it feels like I am getting some "wrap up" in the drive line. What I mean is that, when there is even the slightest amount of throttle pressure, and it is let off, there is a perceptible slight pull or surge feeling to the right. When even light throttle pressure is applied again, it will pull back left again. No driveline noises, clunks, shimmies, etc. , just the feel of the car sort of torqueing when there is pressure added or removed from the power train. It is more of a "seat of the pants" feel than in the steering. My guess is that it may be a suspension link or bushing in the rear ended gone, although I do have some fear about maybe the limited slip unit in the rear differential acting up, as I hear these can be prone to issues.
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 4.7 L. Clock from right side of engine immediately after starting engine. Seems to be in rhythm with engine and increases in frequency as I rev. Gradually subsides over first 5 minutes and not audible after that. Recent small leak of transmission fluid, but I'm thinking that has nothing to do with this.
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The car has an obvious misfire and the scanner says its Cyl # 8. I tried the "italian" tune-up and under heavy throttle the miss goes away. I swapped coils and the miss stays with Cyl # 8. I pulled the injector, and can't see anything wrong.
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Lately I have been working a lot with my cold air intake. One of the vacuum lines keeps popping off. Today I got a check engine light and VSC and VSC off light. Is that due to the tough idle caused by the disconnected vacuum line. I erased the code and so far it has not returned.
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New to diesel trucks and wondered if this recurring code is a serious problem. I clear DTC and truck will run fine. Might stay off for 2 days or 2 months and same code comes back. Truck seems to run just fine even with service light on.
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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My wife says our 2002 Grand Jeep Cherokee very rarely hesitates as it moves from first to second gear (once every week at most). I've never felt the problem, but she says its happens when from a dead stop into 2nd gear. And she said there are no other times when the vehicle hesitates (fine in every other gear). No other weird noises and the power seems fine. Its an automatic transmission and I've had the fluid and filter changed recently. What it is? Transmission? It is due for some new spark plugs... any chance it could be that?
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About a year ago the oil stopped showing on the dipstick of my 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is the original dipstick. I have changed the oil, filled it according to manual. It runs well, engine has no ticking (unless its low on oil, then I add a quart), pressure is fine. Just no way to check the oil !The tube is still attached from looking at the outside.
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Last summer my wife's 2000 Grand Jeep Cherokee began shutting down while driving (electric stays on) on early hot days after about 40min of driving; even when the AC is off. About 10min later we can restart as before (before that it won't even crank). Over the winter the problem went away but returned again this spring/summer with the hotter weather (>80C). Its not the no battery or alternator and no one can seem to figure out the problem.
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I have a 95' Grand Cherokee, V8 5.2L. Recently, it started overheating and was diagnosed as a head gasket issue at a shop. I ended up replacing the head gasket, thermostat, and water pump. (The radiator, top radiator hose, and radiator cap were replaced within the last year as well.) Despite the repairs, the coolant in the reservoir does not move. The Jeep overheats and there is a squealing noise coming from what may be the water pump. There is also a slight leakage of coolant near the water pump bypass hose, but does not seem to be coming from the hose itself. What else am I missing?
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I'm having an issue with my 93 Grand Cherokee with 193k miles.
The RPMs will fluxuate and even drop to 0 at times and the whole Jeep with shudder and shake and then the RPMs will return back to normal. It could just drop down once, or several times in a row. I've even had it completely die a few times and I'll have to restart it. It's the worst when idling or driving slowly, like through a drive through or a parking lot, but the Jeep will still give a small jerk at times during acceleration as if it's trying to do it but can't completely.
I know next to nothing about cars but I have a friend who has assisted me with few things. We changed the fuel filter which he said looked like it may have been the stock fuel filter. He hooked up his compressor and blew all kinds of black garbage out of it and concluded it definitely needed a new one. He told me just to run it and see how it did, which it did fine for awhile but today it seemed to be acting the worst ever with it shaking and shuddering and trying to die but it didn't. He also looked at the spark plugs and told me that while they were aged they didn't look bad enough to be worth the money replacing...
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