Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 2002 - Extremely High Pitched Whistling Sound While Idling
Jan 18, 2014
So I noticed when it started getting cold that my Jeep emits this extremely high pitched whistling sound and I can't figure out what's going on. I've taken it to two mechanics and both said it was a belt that needed to be replaced so I had the belt replaced and the noise persisted. I've noticed a few things about the noise, it only happens when it is approximately 30 degrees outside or lower; only while the car is idling (when I accelerate the noise goes away immediately); It only happens after I've gone above approximately 30mph; The noise will go away after I've gone through a series of idling and accelerating; and stops immediately once I turn the car off. The Jeep is almost up to 150,000 miles.
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There is a whistling noise that is coming from under the hood of my Jeep. It is more noticeable on cold days. It temporarily disappears when my foot is on the accelerator or after I have been idling at a stop sign for 30 seconds. The noise starts again when I start driving.
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I own a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006 V8 4.7 with 133,000 miles. This week I went to a Quick Service Oil Change , after receiving an oil change they informed me I needed a Differential Fluid Change , that I "should have " had one at my last visit and couldn't wait any longer. After receiving the two , I left and not even fifteen minutes later , I attempted to use my breaks approaching the end of the highway.
Instantly the car started making an extremely long banging / thumping sounds along with the a lot of shaking and the car proceed to dead right there. I got it towed home , the company is supposed to send some one to come do a once over. What it could be? As sad as it sounds, I have a feeling they will do a look over and claim they don't know what is wrong or that it isn't there fault in any way.
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My Jeep makes a whistling noise in cool/cold weather (~60 degrees and below) that no mechanic has been able to diagnose let alone fix the problem. Here are the details...
-high pitched whistling (can be heard inside and outside the car - very loud) only when temps are about 60 degrees and below-after 5 minutes of the car running-only when RPMs are about 2.0 or below.
However, RPMs can be higher when it is colder out and it will still make the noise-as you push on the accelerator, the noise gradually decreases until RPMs are high enough to completely stop the noise.
When temps are around 50-60 degrees, sometimes the whistling will stop after the car has been at a complete stop for about 1-2 minutes-If you turn off the car and let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then turn it back on, usually the whistling will be gone. It will need to sit in the off position for longer the colder the temps are. This problem has been ongoing for about 4 years.
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I finally got a recording of this, after trying to describe it without much success. Dealer drove the car 2x and claimed they don't hear it.
Video here, turn up your sound... noise happens just as the gas is let off...
As you can hear (if you turn speakers up, recording isn't very sensitive), it's kind of a high pitched whistling sound or whining sound. Happens when coasting (foot off gas) at 60mph. In gear or neutral, same noise. Only around that speed, only when foot off the gas.
What do you think this is? Some have suggested wheel bearing but if you listen this is more of a steady high pitched noise, not a helicopter like sound.
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High pitched noise when car is running at idle and when not on the gas. Whenever I accelerate it goes away. Pitch/Loudness seems to be higher with RPM's. Could be coming from front of the car.
Checked so far:
I read some other posts about this and fully disconnected my aftermarket radio. I'm pretty sure it is not a ground loop as no power to HU shouldn't still create the whistle.
What I have:
I have an EIP aftermarket street exhaust. I checked the exhaust to see about the flapper, but I don't believe I have any of the items involved - maybe I'm wrong. After some more reading it sounds like a vacuum leak as it goes away upon acceleration. I need identifying what vacuum hoses are still in place/clamped off with having an aftermarket exhaust.
I do not have a CAI, just a K&N drop in.
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Having problem on mrk 6, sounds almost like a high pitched vacuum leak but I can't find it.
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97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
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I have recently noticed that there is a loud, high-pitched whistling sound coming from under my hood that has progressively gotten worse over the weeks. At first, it would only occur when I had my AC or heat on and would stop immediately once i turned the AC/heat off, and will also happen from time to time when I accelerate. Now, this noise is happening right when I start my car and takes a few seconds to stop.
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My mother, who is retired, has a Subaru Forester, probably a 2001 or thereabouts. It runs great, but recently whenever you let off the brakes, there is a high-pitched whistling sound that comes out of the dashboard on the driver's side. My mother claims that she took this to a mechanic and they told her that there is a small vacuum leak in the power brake line. They also told her that the leak was small and that there was no hurry to fix it (that was in April). Now it is August and my mother is still putting off fixing it because of the cost. They will have to pull out the engine and the dashboard to get to the leak. In the meantime, she continues to drive the car saying that the worst that will happen if it fails is that the power brakes won't work, but she'll still have her regular disk brakes, she'll just have to mash down her foot a little harder. Is this safe?
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I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee with 225,000 miles (hooyah!) on an I-6 . After driving for long distances (at least an hour on the road) then idling for extended periods of time, it seems it starts misfiring. RPMs drop to about 500 and will not rev past 1200 without dying completely.
This has happened a few times in the following scenario:We have 3 kids and often visit family out of state. We'll drive for several hours before pulling off at a rest area. To minimize the amount of time spent off the road and to save the hassle of unloading/loading all the kids, we'll leave the car running (to keep heat/cool air in) and either myself or my wife will run in to use the restroom and get snacks. The vehicle may idle for 10 minutes before the issue presents itself. It seems that if we turn the vehicle off and rest for a few (3-5) minutes, the problem will resolve itself and we can be on our way with no more issues.
Check Engine light is on but only throws a code for an EVAP leak. I don't know a whole lot about cars. I thought it could be time to replace spark plugs but this issue doesn't happen often and it seems only in these specific circumstances.
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Car suddenly started a high pitched whistling noise/metal on metal sound at highway speeds. It is intermittent, no noticeable pattern w/acceleration or braking. Similar sound at lower volume when the shock/spring is depressed (pushing down on that corner of the car). Louder at low speeds.
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Very high pitched "whistle"(enough to give you a headache) as vehicle speed increases or fan speed increased. This will not occur on recirculate and will go away if a window or roof is opened.
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Got a tire rotation a two weeks ago on my new 2013 Kia Forte (purchased in August 2012).Now, I have a very high pitched whistling noise coming from the rear tire area. The sound happens at all speeds. The sound is the worse at very slow speeds; the sound is also very bad at very slow speeds when I touch the brakes and turn the wheel.I looked at back tires from outside the car (not underneath the car). The mechanical set-up of back tires look very different than that of the front tires. The back tires have metal parts touching each other while the front tires do not.
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I seem to have this high pitched whistling noise as I am driving at normal speeds (starts at ~40-45 mph). It seems to coming from my rear drivers side, but I'm not entirely sure. My R has about 78,xxx miles and I haven't done this 80k....
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My 2012 Accent Blue is making a low pitched whistling sound when its in motion. I have an annoying problem with my car. While I'm driving the car whenever I pass 90 km/h a whistling noise are started in front of my car. Hyundai Service nor Hyundai Customer service come up with a solution. They say just go an another service an check it. I uploaded 2 videos :
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Usually after I run the car in manual/sport mode, I begin to hear a high-pitched 'hissing/whistling' noise coming from the engine. It sounds like a vacuum leak. It is audible while driving with the windows down.
I am having problems pin pointing the source, but it sounds like its coming from the center block. What is the right direction to the leak? It starts exactly at 1500 and cuts off at 2200 rpm (while in gear). 1500 to 3000 rpm while in park..
I have a Takeda intake installed and I re-tighten the fittings.
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My Jeep does not always start. All the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to start the engine, they all go off. The lights stay off, and the engine will not start. The ignition won't even click... it's similar to a dead battery. When I turn the key back to its original position (when first inserting), all the gauges spike and the needles jump really high for a split second. When the door is open the gauges keep jumping (spiking). After waiting for 30 minutes, the engine will start fine like nothing was wrong (except the fluctuation in idle). It would rev high at idle sometimes, and sometimes it would idle low... so low in fact the jeep stalls. I have read about the symptoms of crank/camshaft sensors and relay, but I wanted to make sure from people that know more than I or have faced this particular problem.
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
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I was experiencing a slight slip in the transmission first thing in the morning when the temps were below 60 degrees in my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee (42RE). Per recommendations of many of the regulars on this forum to combat such an issue, I added a can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to the fluid. I drove it a couple times and everything seemed fine. It sat for a week or so, went to drive it tonight, and now the check engine light has come on and the transmission is slipping badly.
I don't know if they have changed anything with that stuff or what, but I just wanted to give a heads up that this may not be such a hot idea anymore, for whatever reason. I will try changing the filter and top up with some fresh ATF+4 (and probably drain and refill a few times) and hope for the best. I don't have a code reader right now, so I can't pull the codes and don't want to drive it to the auto parts store the way it is now, but am pretty sure they are related to the slip.
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