Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1998 V8 5.2L Started Overheating
Nov 14, 2016
I have a 95' Grand Cherokee, V8 5.2L. Recently, it started overheating and was diagnosed as a head gasket issue at a shop. I ended up replacing the head gasket, thermostat, and water pump. (The radiator, top radiator hose, and radiator cap were replaced within the last year as well.) Despite the repairs, the coolant in the reservoir does not move. The Jeep overheats and there is a squealing noise coming from what may be the water pump. There is also a slight leakage of coolant near the water pump bypass hose, but does not seem to be coming from the hose itself. What else am I missing?
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I was driving my '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (6cyl 4.0l 4 wheel drive) on the freeway when it, very suddenly, started shuddering badly. The check engine light came on and then started blinking. I pulled right over and shut it off. I stared it back up and the engine is misfiring badly. I had a code reader with me and it's showing three codes. A random misfire, a cyl #5 misfire, and a Cyl#6 misfire. It will sit and idle (very roughly obviously).
There was no drop in RPMs, oil pressure, voltage or anything when it happened.
I got it home and replaced the distributor cap/rotor, all six spark plugs, and the plug wires but there is no improvement. I cleared the Codes and re-read them and got the same errors again.
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My '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, ~130k miles, 6 cyl. engine. Returning from a trip this morning, I glanced below my car and saw a small (~3/16 inch diameter) rubber hose dragging on the ground. I traced it back and found one end connected to the top of the front differential. (Photo below). There's at least 2 feet of hose before the break. Despite searching, I could not figure out where on earth the other end of this end connected to. It doesn't work for that what's left of the hose is long enough to reach just about anything on the driver's side of the block.
The hose doesn't leak fluid, even with the engine running. I checked oil level, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield cleaner (I was getting desperate, OK?)-all levels were normal with no signs of contamination. The car drives fine-I possible drove up to 200 miles before I noticed it, and made the last 20 back home with no issues. (I was driving in RWD mode though). Where this hose is supposed to run to? I'm assuming Chrysler meant it to connect somewhere.
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I drive a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6 cyl. engine, ~130k miles. I noted a slow loss of power steering fluid a while back and, after hillbillying it for a while (money was tight, and there was a sale on gallon jugs of PS fluid), I decided to address this problem properly and fix it. I added UV indicator dye to the PS reservoir and drove around for several days, hoping to pinpoint the leak. Well, what I found was wherever the fluid is leaking from, it's in a position to be blown by the radiator fan, turning the inside of my engine into an ultraviolet Jackson Pollock painting. (That, or I really am leaking power steering fluid from my #1 spark plug wire). Any tips on how I can pinpoint this leak?
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I have a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4w with a 5.2l, it has approx 145,000 miles. It leaks a little oil and when i recently checked it (level was good), it smelled of gas. It starts easy and runs great with no smoke and no knocking when shut down. I've read it could be anything from rings to a stuck injector. I drive it on short trips now, only occasionally going out of town. It is due for an oil change but I would like to have a solution before driving it more or getting the oil change.
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I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
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My mother's 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (60 k miles!) has developed an annoying slow drip at the rear main bearing (6 cyl). Are there any additives that are safe and might slow this? She just had the oil changed, so it's not a good time to be talking about high-mileage oil.
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
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I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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My wife says our 2002 Grand Jeep Cherokee very rarely hesitates as it moves from first to second gear (once every week at most). I've never felt the problem, but she says its happens when from a dead stop into 2nd gear. And she said there are no other times when the vehicle hesitates (fine in every other gear). No other weird noises and the power seems fine. Its an automatic transmission and I've had the fluid and filter changed recently. What it is? Transmission? It is due for some new spark plugs... any chance it could be that?
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About a year ago the oil stopped showing on the dipstick of my 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is the original dipstick. I have changed the oil, filled it according to manual. It runs well, engine has no ticking (unless its low on oil, then I add a quart), pressure is fine. Just no way to check the oil !The tube is still attached from looking at the outside.
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Last summer my wife's 2000 Grand Jeep Cherokee began shutting down while driving (electric stays on) on early hot days after about 40min of driving; even when the AC is off. About 10min later we can restart as before (before that it won't even crank). Over the winter the problem went away but returned again this spring/summer with the hotter weather (>80C). Its not the no battery or alternator and no one can seem to figure out the problem.
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I'm having an issue with my 93 Grand Cherokee with 193k miles.
The RPMs will fluxuate and even drop to 0 at times and the whole Jeep with shudder and shake and then the RPMs will return back to normal. It could just drop down once, or several times in a row. I've even had it completely die a few times and I'll have to restart it. It's the worst when idling or driving slowly, like through a drive through or a parking lot, but the Jeep will still give a small jerk at times during acceleration as if it's trying to do it but can't completely.
I know next to nothing about cars but I have a friend who has assisted me with few things. We changed the fuel filter which he said looked like it may have been the stock fuel filter. He hooked up his compressor and blew all kinds of black garbage out of it and concluded it definitely needed a new one. He told me just to run it and see how it did, which it did fine for awhile but today it seemed to be acting the worst ever with it shaking and shuddering and trying to die but it didn't. He also looked at the spark plugs and told me that while they were aged they didn't look bad enough to be worth the money replacing...
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Went over a bump on the highway the other day and heard a loud noice as if I was dragging something under the car. I checked but nothing was there. It reminded me of putting a baseball card in your spokes of your bike when you were a kid. It happened twice and the weird thing is that if I put it into reverse and drive about 10ft The problem went away. But something still seems loose and it sounds like it will happen again. I was googling this and it seems like the noise was around where the center differential or drive shaft?
2006 Jeep grand cherokee
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2015 Grand Cherokee w/20" wheels vibrates after new tires. First with Michelin Defender and now with Bridgestone Alenza. Balanced and rebalanced by Hogan and Direct Tire. 12K miles, never in accident, car is still like new.
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'95 jeep grand cherokee 4 whl drive. No previous starting problems, but last week suddenly wouldn't start (lot of grinding) and check eng. light came on. Had it towed to shop. They replaced battery and battery cable. Worked fine for 2 days, but this morning barely started (again grinding noise) and check eng. light came on again. What might be wrong?
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Some of the gears are intermittently "sticking". When I get up to 60 m.p.h., it's supposed to shift into the next gear, but sometimes it won't and the vehicle starts lurching as it comes up against the "shifting wall". Other times it won't downshift, so I leave a stop light in 2nd or 3rd gear. The lurching only occurs for the gear at about 60 m.p.h., unless I put the gear selector into "2", then it sometimes lurches there too. Several mechanics, including a transmission specialist at a local Jeep dealership (who charged me for 2 hours of "diagnostic time"), couldn't determine what is wrong. I did a transmission fluid flush, but that didn't work.
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I was experiencing a slight slip in the transmission first thing in the morning when the temps were below 60 degrees in my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee (42RE). Per recommendations of many of the regulars on this forum to combat such an issue, I added a can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to the fluid. I drove it a couple times and everything seemed fine. It sat for a week or so, went to drive it tonight, and now the check engine light has come on and the transmission is slipping badly.
I don't know if they have changed anything with that stuff or what, but I just wanted to give a heads up that this may not be such a hot idea anymore, for whatever reason. I will try changing the filter and top up with some fresh ATF+4 (and probably drain and refill a few times) and hope for the best. I don't have a code reader right now, so I can't pull the codes and don't want to drive it to the auto parts store the way it is now, but am pretty sure they are related to the slip.
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