My mother's 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (60 k miles!) has developed an annoying slow drip at the rear main bearing (6 cyl). Are there any additives that are safe and might slow this? She just had the oil changed, so it's not a good time to be talking about high-mileage oil.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
I have a 1998 f150 xlt, supercab, 4x4, 4.6 Romeo (truck production date is 12/97). And I have a oil leak.
Its on the drivers side of the engine. There is a nipple on the head, next to the firewall, directly above where the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold meet. It looks to have some sort of bolt/flush stud inside the nipple. I have oil seeping by the bolt/stud and leaking onto my exhaust pipe. its a constant but slow drip.
What this is or how to fix it? Is this a common problem? I can take a pic but cant find my camera at the moment.
I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
View 17 RepliesI have a 95' Grand Cherokee, V8 5.2L. Recently, it started overheating and was diagnosed as a head gasket issue at a shop. I ended up replacing the head gasket, thermostat, and water pump. (The radiator, top radiator hose, and radiator cap were replaced within the last year as well.) Despite the repairs, the coolant in the reservoir does not move. The Jeep overheats and there is a squealing noise coming from what may be the water pump. There is also a slight leakage of coolant near the water pump bypass hose, but does not seem to be coming from the hose itself. What else am I missing?
View 7 Replies1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, ~130k miles, 6 cyl. engine. Returning from a trip this morning, I glanced below my car and saw a small (~3/16 inch diameter) rubber hose dragging on the ground. I traced it back and found one end connected to the top of the front differential. (Photo below). There's at least 2 feet of hose before the break. Despite searching, I could not figure out where on earth the other end of this end connected to. It doesn't work for that what's left of the hose is long enough to reach just about anything on the driver's side of the block.
The hose doesn't leak fluid, even with the engine running. I checked oil level, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield cleaner (I was getting desperate, OK?)-all levels were normal with no signs of contamination. The car drives fine-I possible drove up to 200 miles before I noticed it, and made the last 20 back home with no issues. (I was driving in RWD mode though). Where this hose is supposed to run to? I'm assuming Chrysler meant it to connect somewhere.
I drive a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6 cyl. engine, ~130k miles. I noted a slow loss of power steering fluid a while back and, after hillbillying it for a while (money was tight, and there was a sale on gallon jugs of PS fluid), I decided to address this problem properly and fix it. I added UV indicator dye to the PS reservoir and drove around for several days, hoping to pinpoint the leak. Well, what I found was wherever the fluid is leaking from, it's in a position to be blown by the radiator fan, turning the inside of my engine into an ultraviolet Jackson Pollock painting. (That, or I really am leaking power steering fluid from my #1 spark plug wire). Any tips on how I can pinpoint this leak?
View 6 RepliesI have a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4w with a 5.2l, it has approx 145,000 miles. It leaks a little oil and when i recently checked it (level was good), it smelled of gas. It starts easy and runs great with no smoke and no knocking when shut down. I've read it could be anything from rings to a stuck injector. I drive it on short trips now, only occasionally going out of town. It is due for an oil change but I would like to have a solution before driving it more or getting the oil change.
View 11 RepliesI was driving my '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (6cyl 4.0l 4 wheel drive) on the freeway when it, very suddenly, started shuddering badly. The check engine light came on and then started blinking. I pulled right over and shut it off. I stared it back up and the engine is misfiring badly. I had a code reader with me and it's showing three codes. A random misfire, a cyl #5 misfire, and a Cyl#6 misfire. It will sit and idle (very roughly obviously).
There was no drop in RPMs, oil pressure, voltage or anything when it happened.
I got it home and replaced the distributor cap/rotor, all six spark plugs, and the plug wires but there is no improvement. I cleared the Codes and re-read them and got the same errors again.
I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
View 2 RepliesAre there any additives that really work on oil leaks. I think i have a rear main leak. I havent even crawled under there but seen oil on the pavement...
4.0 Jeep Wrangler160,000 Auto
I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 Laredo. For approximately the past 7 months there has been a noise coming from the left rear of the vehicle at speeds above approximately 60 mph. The sound is not metallic in nature, it sounds more like a seat belt flapping against something. The frequency is approximately 2 Hz and is very consistent at highway speeds. The driver can seldom hear it apparently due to interior acoustics, but the someone in the passenger seat or the back seat hears it plainly, over a period of time it is very annoying.
In addition, if you touch the left rear interior side panel (in the cargo area) it seems like you can feel a small vibration that matches the sound. I have had the vehicle inspected by Jeep, they find nothing. I have had the left rear interior panel removed to see if there was a problem with the sound system cable bundle that runs through there, but it was OK. We thought it might be the metal gas tank door vibrating in the wind stream, so we taped the door down, but the sound was not affected. What the source of this sound might be?
If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
View 4 RepliesI found oil leaking out of my audi (model above) this morning. it runs great, but is leaving a small puddle every time I park. I looked underneath and there is oil collected in many places. Its not pouring but slow drip when the engine is hot. More to the front of the car. Its not happening at the washer to the crank to drain oil.
View 11 RepliesI noticed oil on my garage floor from my 2002 Honda Accord V6 and thought the dealer hadn't tightened the oil pan bolt. The dealer charged me to diagnose that the dripping oil came from a main bearing cap side bolt. It seems the bolt threads, aren't sealed at the factory and to fix the problem the dealer will remove the bolt, clean it, then apply Hondabond HT Silicone Gasket to the threads and washer contact area. I have to leave the car for 24 hrs for the sealer to dry before staring the engine. Bolt to be removed, cleaned, sealed and replaced. Is this a recall item?
View 12 RepliesI have a 97 F-150 with just over 300,000 miles. I lost all oil pressure and know I need to replace the main bearings. Must I pull the engine to do so?
View 9 RepliesI have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4x4 four liter inline 6. have a coolant drip at bottom radiator hose, change hose. but still drip. Could water pump be leaking. and it running down on the bottom radiator hose.
View 4 Replies2011 250 CC FX4 LARIAT 6.7l Just had the oil changed on Friday and I noticed a couple oily spots in the driveway. Crawled under to investigate and there is a slow drip coming off the plastic oil plug. Called the service center and they said the seals on those plugs fail pretty regular. What was done to eliminate this issue?
View 9 RepliesOver the last couple of months, my '98 Passat 1.8T Sedan has started to show an annoying habit, in addition to the multiple other ones of which I will never solve.
After it has rained and things have dried up pretty well everywhere, if I open up the trunk, a stream of water always drips down from the latch. It gets pretty annoying when I have things in the trunk. I have looked everywhere on the trunk lid hoping to find a location of ingress - nothing. I made sure the channels on the side of the trunk are clear of debris too.The water does not seem to be collecting in the receptacle (on the bumper) for the latch either. It is somehow collecting in the lid. I once had a cracked license plate light holder cover, so I replaced that thinking the problem would be solved. No luck.
The only other thing I have noticed is that over the last week twice after trying to open the trunk with the handle, the handle would not release properly ( it would move up and get stuck and the trunk would not open). When I wiggled the handle, it would pop back down and then I could open it properly. The two things are probably not related.
How to solve the water drip from the latch, or at least, where the water is coming from?
I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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