Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1998 Laredo Suddenly Misfiring And CEL Started Blinking
Jul 16, 2011
I was driving my '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (6cyl 4.0l 4 wheel drive) on the freeway when it, very suddenly, started shuddering badly. The check engine light came on and then started blinking. I pulled right over and shut it off. I stared it back up and the engine is misfiring badly. I had a code reader with me and it's showing three codes. A random misfire, a cyl #5 misfire, and a Cyl#6 misfire. It will sit and idle (very roughly obviously).
There was no drop in RPMs, oil pressure, voltage or anything when it happened.
I got it home and replaced the distributor cap/rotor, all six spark plugs, and the plug wires but there is no improvement. I cleared the Codes and re-read them and got the same errors again.
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I have a 95' Grand Cherokee, V8 5.2L. Recently, it started overheating and was diagnosed as a head gasket issue at a shop. I ended up replacing the head gasket, thermostat, and water pump. (The radiator, top radiator hose, and radiator cap were replaced within the last year as well.) Despite the repairs, the coolant in the reservoir does not move. The Jeep overheats and there is a squealing noise coming from what may be the water pump. There is also a slight leakage of coolant near the water pump bypass hose, but does not seem to be coming from the hose itself. What else am I missing?
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I have an 82 Jeep CJ7 Laredo with a blown head gasket. Its been taken apart & I have the new gasket for it. I want to sell it, as is, but wasn't sure how much to ask for it?
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It started stalling out off and on. Thought maybe bad tank of gas and waited it out. Since then i have had the catalytic converter replaced. Ignition coil replaced complete tune up with new wires distributor and rotor button. Still stalled so they said fuel pump now that's been replaced and on my way home it stalled again.
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'95 jeep grand cherokee 4 whl drive. No previous starting problems, but last week suddenly wouldn't start (lot of grinding) and check eng. light came on. Had it towed to shop. They replaced battery and battery cable. Worked fine for 2 days, but this morning barely started (again grinding noise) and check eng. light came on again. What might be wrong?
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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, ~130k miles, 6 cyl. engine. Returning from a trip this morning, I glanced below my car and saw a small (~3/16 inch diameter) rubber hose dragging on the ground. I traced it back and found one end connected to the top of the front differential. (Photo below). There's at least 2 feet of hose before the break. Despite searching, I could not figure out where on earth the other end of this end connected to. It doesn't work for that what's left of the hose is long enough to reach just about anything on the driver's side of the block.
The hose doesn't leak fluid, even with the engine running. I checked oil level, transmission fluid, coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and windshield cleaner (I was getting desperate, OK?)-all levels were normal with no signs of contamination. The car drives fine-I possible drove up to 200 miles before I noticed it, and made the last 20 back home with no issues. (I was driving in RWD mode though). Where this hose is supposed to run to? I'm assuming Chrysler meant it to connect somewhere.
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I drive a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6 cyl. engine, ~130k miles. I noted a slow loss of power steering fluid a while back and, after hillbillying it for a while (money was tight, and there was a sale on gallon jugs of PS fluid), I decided to address this problem properly and fix it. I added UV indicator dye to the PS reservoir and drove around for several days, hoping to pinpoint the leak. Well, what I found was wherever the fluid is leaking from, it's in a position to be blown by the radiator fan, turning the inside of my engine into an ultraviolet Jackson Pollock painting. (That, or I really am leaking power steering fluid from my #1 spark plug wire). Any tips on how I can pinpoint this leak?
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I have a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4w with a 5.2l, it has approx 145,000 miles. It leaks a little oil and when i recently checked it (level was good), it smelled of gas. It starts easy and runs great with no smoke and no knocking when shut down. I've read it could be anything from rings to a stuck injector. I drive it on short trips now, only occasionally going out of town. It is due for an oil change but I would like to have a solution before driving it more or getting the oil change.
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I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
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My mother's 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (60 k miles!) has developed an annoying slow drip at the rear main bearing (6 cyl). Are there any additives that are safe and might slow this? She just had the oil changed, so it's not a good time to be talking about high-mileage oil.
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
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About a week ago, my wife's Malibu (~130,000 mi) started exhibiting symptoms I would associate with a problem with the ignition system. It was idling rough, it felt like it was misfiring, and the check engine light started blinking when I was accelerating from stop up to 30-40 mph.
The timing was all weird because of the holiday, and so I didn't take it to get the engine codes pulled right away because I figured Id take care of it this week (we were traveling over the weekend).
My wife just called and said her car won't start at all. The car will try to turn over and she didn't describe anything consistent with a dead battery.
If I can't get it somewhere to get the codes pulled, what might be wrong? To summarize, it started idling roughly and maybe misfiring about a week ago, it sat for four or five days, and now it won't start.
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I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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I have a '98 ZX2. Recently, my car started misfiring. I'm not sure of the cylinder number, but it's the one closest to the driver's side. Long story short, I found that the fuel injector is not firing, if that is the correct term. I used some trick I learned on youtube which involves using a screwdriver to listen for the fuel injector clicking. Anyway, I made a noid light out of an LED and a couple of resistors and found out that there is no injector pulse. I know the noid light works because I tested it on the other cylinders and it flashes. Anyway, I'm not sure where to go from here. I've read elsewhere it could be the PCM but if that were the case it would probably affect every cylinder and if it was a crankshaft position sensor the car wouldn't start.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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I have a 96 grand Cherokee Laredo, and the other day it just wouldn't start. The jeep will not turn over, so i started checking some things out and determined that it was not getting a spark. Since i replaced the distributor cap recently i figured it had to be the ignition coil, so i replaced that. Still no go, i tested to see if the ignition coil was getting a spark by using an ohm meter, and nothing.
So something is preventing the spark even getting that far. I do not know much about vehicles, and i have to think it is something in the electrical system (like a chip or something),possibly security system, or NSS.
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Got done driving it one day, parked it, sat approx. 2-3 days, tried to start and it wouldn't start. When the engine was turning sounded like it was getting fire every couple secs but wouldn't fully start. Replaced the fuel filter, tps, distributor cap & rotor, still no luck. Took a look at what color the spark was and it was quite yellow, does it need to be blue?
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My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo won't start...It cranks strong but won't turn over..I can hear my Fuel Pump kick on from the back of the Vehicle but it won't kick on listening from the engine compartment??I checked all fuses.I had a tune up a couple of months ago..My check engine light was on before the tune up and my mechanic said that the tune up corrected the problem the car was coding out... I've been told to check the ALARM by turning the alarm on and off and also unlocking the car Via the driver door.. This didn't work.. I've been told to check the Fuel cut off switch(RESET BUTTON) for my make and year but can't seem to locate it...
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I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and when I first got it, it revved too high well now it revs too low, when im at a stop light it revs at just barely above 0 RPMS and the engine will cut off. it just ate shutting off yesterday. I took my car back to the dealership to get it fixed and they said "there's nothing wrong with it" well now I just passed my warranty and it starts shutting off on me.
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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