Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1996 Won't Stay Running / Codes About Idle Control And O2 Sensors
Nov 26, 2011
I own a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, and there has been an ongoing problem with it stalling. The check engine light is on and it reads codes about idle control sensor and 02 sensor. I spent a lot of money having both replaced, along with an processor. I had to bring my Jeep to a dealership so they could "marry" the processor to the car. The check engine light went out for about a day, then once the computer reset, light went back on. The codes still read bad O2 and idle sensor despite them being replaced.
The problem is when the car starts cold I have to keep my foot on the gas for a couple minutes or it will stall out. Once it has warmed up the car runs good. I turned the idle pin on the front of the throttle body to try to keep from having to put my foot on the gas but it still stalls. It seems like it is working better in the cold weather. My mechanic says that I may have turned the idle too far trying to fix it and that is why it is stalling.
I just want my car to run without having to warm it up every time. It wastes time and a lot of gas. Could it be something other then what I've already replaced? I don't want to keep replacing the same things and not have it fix the problem.
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I am having an issue with my vehicle. It shuts down at random, 1 thing after another until everything just shuts down. I have replaced the battery, the alternator and the 2 alternator fuses. The battery gauge in the vehicle still reads 9 and the alternator wont kick in and take over when the battery dies.
(93 jeep grand cherokee laredo)...
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My 96 cherokee 4.o is having trouble. the motor is cranking but will not stay running unless i am pouring gas directly into the butterfly valve. it runs great while i am pouring gas into it, but it sputters out and dies once i stop. i checked to pressure in the fuel rail and gas will come out of the valve however the pressure gauge doesn't have any response. it feels like the fuel pump.
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What could cause my Instrument lights to stay on for a while as well as my gauges to malfunction when the temperature is cool.? It just started doing this.
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I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee and am having a problem my mechanic can't figure out. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, heat or time of day has no influence. It even dies while I am driving. While driving it will die and start again over and over. Sometimes it runs fine with no problems. Have had this problem for 1 1/2 years now. Have relpaced rotor, dist cap, pick up coil, tune up, computer sensor, fuel filter. So far nothing has worked.
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I am having a problem with my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. When I stop at a light and I am in drive, it wants to stall. If I am in park or neutral - no problem.
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96 grand cherokee 4.0L- Randomly stalls or maybe I should say it randomly operates. Hot or cold it doesn't matter. Sometimes it will restart sometimes not, This has happened before and I replaced the computer- twice. It works fine for a while but I end up here again. What could be frying the computers. Is there a way to check the computer to see if it is malfunctioning?
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We just bought an 1998 JGC Laredo and it ran fine for the first week, then started stalling. Our mechanic originally thought it was the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and replaced it, and we thought that solved the problem since it ran better. They made a comment at the time that the previous owner had been "chasing this problem for a while since most of the ignition parts had been replaced (computer, CPS, coil, etc)
In a few days though, it started stalling and we took it back to them. Note, no error codes, and the check engine light never came on. After scratching their heads for a while, the finally did a "wiggle test" on the wiring and found that one of the plugs on the computer was loose, and the plug itself needs to be replaced. I can easily make the car stall by just pushing down on the plug a little.
I temporarily have it working much better by using wire ties and securing the plug down to the computer, but at some point I will need to replace it. Make sure if you replace it, you get one from a Jeep with the same S/N on your computer. Jeep was very bad about making changes to the computers and systems and you could easily get an incompatible one.
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I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. While driving the other day the steering wheel totally locked up. It was not like just losing power steering; you could not turn the wheel at all. I had the same thing happen 3 years ago and knew that if I turned off the car and restarted it the steering would unlock. I did that, it unlocked, and I continued on my way. A few blocks later, the wheel locked up again and this time the engine died after the wheel locked up. A few blocks more and it locked up a third time, the engine died, and I could not get the vehicle to restart for several minutes. The engine would turn over but it would not start. After finally getting it to start I pulled into a parking spot and called a tow truck. The mechanics have had it for several days and can not find anything wrong. It will not repeat this behavior and no codes come up on the computer. When this happened 3 years ago the same thing happened. The mechanics had it for several days and could never find anything wrong. I've been lucky so far in that this has only happened at low speeds and at places where there was not a high volume of traffic.
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I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 152k miles on it. Recently replaced battery. All of sudden yesterday, engine will turn over and try to run but sputters out and dies after about 30 seconds. Cannot maintain idle on it, and none of the gauges rise when you turn on the ignition, so that you cannot see the RPMs and the gas gauge reads empty even though I filled it up two days ago. Tried to start it today and saw the same problem but with no sputtering, engine dies within seconds now.
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I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 with about 150,000 miles. About every other day my car will shut off while I'm stopped at a light, stop sign, etc. The strange thing is that the radio and lights (stuff controlled by the battery I assume) does not turn off with the engine. It seems the frequency with which this happens has stayed about the same, and I haven't been too worried until yesterday when I went to start my car and it would not start. It just kept revving and seemed like it was very close to starting.
I opened the hood and saw a lot of corrosion on the battery and luckily I had a coke in the car. After pouring some coke and wiping away the corrosion, the car started up. I have had no problems since I did this yesterday. But like I said, my car engine seems to turn off without warning so it could happen next time I drive. If these two problems could be linked, that is the corrosion on the battery could have caused both the car not starting and the engine shutting off when the car is idling. I took to a mechanic about a month ago and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and, of course, it didn't shut off when they drove it.
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cyl. engine, ~145k miles. A few weeks ago, I noticed the engine would occasionally run rough at idle, dropping down to a low rpm (~500 rpm, but erratic) for a few seconds before stalling. This usually happens when in park or stopped at a stoplight, but it's occasionally happened at low speed while coasting to a stop (never while accelerating, or while traveling above 20 mph or so). Generally, the car will restart right away, though sometimes I have wait a few seconds to a minute (I was a real popular guy at that intersection).
At first, no codes came up, so I changed the plugs and wires (I was due anyway). That didn't work. (The plugs, while worn, looked normal to me-no residue). I've since had a P0351 code pop up. Before I throw parts at this code (ignition coil, I believe), is there anything else I should be looking into?
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Recently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, replaced the oil pump with a new one and washed oil pan and replace the pump screen. After driving for about 30 minutes when at an idle/low speed the oils pressure goes low enough to set the check engine light on. The motor sound good sometime there is a little clacker, oil sending unit replaced and have installed a mechanical gauge... What else will cause this?
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My Jeep does not always start. All the dash lights come on, but when I turn the key to start the engine, they all go off. The lights stay off, and the engine will not start. The ignition won't even click... it's similar to a dead battery. When I turn the key back to its original position (when first inserting), all the gauges spike and the needles jump really high for a split second. When the door is open the gauges keep jumping (spiking). After waiting for 30 minutes, the engine will start fine like nothing was wrong (except the fluctuation in idle). It would rev high at idle sometimes, and sometimes it would idle low... so low in fact the jeep stalls. I have read about the symptoms of crank/camshaft sensors and relay, but I wanted to make sure from people that know more than I or have faced this particular problem.
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I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 240000 miles on the clock. Words cannot describe how impressed I am by this car. However, yesterday I noticed that the selector switch where one chooses to direct the air output has failed me. It seems to be stuck in the windshield defrost setting, unable to redirect the airflow to anywhere else. I am however still able to control the temperature as well as A/C settings. The switch felt strangely 'limp' almost as though it is no longer connected to whatever engineering or witchcraft it is attached to behind the control panel. What are your thoughts on this? Could it be as simple as some mechanical linkage that has snapped off? Just to recap: blower motor, heat and A/C are not affected by this.
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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I have a 95 VW Corrado VR6. The indications are that the vehicle will turn over and increase RPM when ignition is turned over. When RPM goes down to idle it continues to zero and dies. If I press the accelerator while starting the car the same thing happens. This originally happened back in October and I did not get it fix or looked at until early April. The shop I took it to replaced the battery and it started right up. I then drove it off and on for about 3 weeks (low speed/no freeway and no more than 1 hour in duration) and then it started doing the exact same thing. That day I had driven home from work which is only about 3 miles. Several hours later I needed to move the car and it started and I moved it 40 feet or so. I then decided I didn't like my parking job and tried to start the car again and it would not start. I am thinking a faulty alternator but not sure if it would fail like this.
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Its a 1996 vw gti 2.0 it wont stay running. Changed the spark plugs, air filter, distributor cap. itll crank but wont start. if i give it gas it will start. but you have to stay on the gas to keep it running. when you let off the gas, it dies right away. Could it be the mass air flow sensor?
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I have 1996 grand Cherokee with 190,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago it stopped running while going up hill.It restarted after 15 minutes and ran for 2 minutes and it did that for few times till I decided to get it towed. Then my mechanic looked on it a few times and finally called me that it would run in second gear and he did not know what is exactly wrong with it. It could be driven home in 2nd gear without any issues.
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I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
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