Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1994 Intermittent Stalling And Now No Spark
Apr 13, 2013
The problem began with intermittent stalling and now the Jeep will not start at all (no spark). I have had the cap, rotor, primary ignition coil, crank sensor, cam position sensor and PCM replaced without any luck. The repair bills have been brutal. The garage has given up.
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I have a jeep grand cherokee 1993 that wont start. I have no spark to injectors. I have change the coil, pcm, rotor, cap, pick up coil, starter, alternator, fly wheel sensor, relayes, wires, fuel pump. I don't know what else to do i need to get it running so I can get rid of it.
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I am experiencing engine stalling while driving my 1996 Grand Cherokee, after it went low on gas about 6 weeks ago.
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I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 207,000 miles that has recently begun stalling while driving. Typically stalls at rest or when coming to a stop, and for a time it would re-start without issue. More recently it won't start readily after stalling, but will eventually start with enough key-turning persistsence. The check engine light comes on only after stalling and not restarting (but was not on previously), and often shuts off after a few miles of smooth running. I took it to my local mechanic who ran the computer codes and reported a malfunctioning cam shaft position sensor (i question if this was the casuality of other problem), which they thought was the source of the stalling, but after replacement it is stalling more than ever. It seems like the local mechanic group won't diagnose anything in this high mile Jeep without a computer code and I am reluctant to bring it back.
What is the cause of the stalling / starting issue? I may be way off but was concerned about a clogged fuel filter or fuel injection problems.
Vehicle Details : 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L inline 6 207,000 miles. Regular maintenance, most miles highway (2 owners) All parts stock
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We just bought an 1998 JGC Laredo and it ran fine for the first week, then started stalling. Our mechanic originally thought it was the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and replaced it, and we thought that solved the problem since it ran better. They made a comment at the time that the previous owner had been "chasing this problem for a while since most of the ignition parts had been replaced (computer, CPS, coil, etc)
In a few days though, it started stalling and we took it back to them. Note, no error codes, and the check engine light never came on. After scratching their heads for a while, the finally did a "wiggle test" on the wiring and found that one of the plugs on the computer was loose, and the plug itself needs to be replaced. I can easily make the car stall by just pushing down on the plug a little.
I temporarily have it working much better by using wire ties and securing the plug down to the computer, but at some point I will need to replace it. Make sure if you replace it, you get one from a Jeep with the same S/N on your computer. Jeep was very bad about making changes to the computers and systems and you could easily get an incompatible one.
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I am having a problem with my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. When I stop at a light and I am in drive, it wants to stall. If I am in park or neutral - no problem.
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What is going on with my car! Anyways I am been having a reoccurring problem with my car that i cant seem to fix. I actually took it to a shop (MIDAS) and the mechanic left the car on for 20 minutes and even drove it around and said it ran fine, but of course on my way home it shuts off. But anyway car starts up fine but after being driven for15-20 minutes the car will shut off, usually at low to idle speeds (stop signs, etc). If i drive the car to work in the morning and leave at night i experience no problems.
Yet if i go to the gym and leave within a hour, i always expect the car to shut off on me so i assume something is being overheated? As far as when the car stalls, i am able to crank the car with no start, sometimes the car starts and turns off right away, sometimes it runs for a bit, and sometimes it wont start at all, only cranks. After 30 minutes the car will work again. When the car begins to shut down and stall, i've noticed if i apply gas i can keep the car half alive as if its trying to continue to work.
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96 grand cherokee 4.0L- Randomly stalls or maybe I should say it randomly operates. Hot or cold it doesn't matter. Sometimes it will restart sometimes not, This has happened before and I replaced the computer- twice. It works fine for a while but I end up here again. What could be frying the computers. Is there a way to check the computer to see if it is malfunctioning?
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cyl. engine, ~145k miles. A few weeks ago, I noticed the engine would occasionally run rough at idle, dropping down to a low rpm (~500 rpm, but erratic) for a few seconds before stalling. This usually happens when in park or stopped at a stoplight, but it's occasionally happened at low speed while coasting to a stop (never while accelerating, or while traveling above 20 mph or so). Generally, the car will restart right away, though sometimes I have wait a few seconds to a minute (I was a real popular guy at that intersection).
At first, no codes came up, so I changed the plugs and wires (I was due anyway). That didn't work. (The plugs, while worn, looked normal to me-no residue). I've since had a P0351 code pop up. Before I throw parts at this code (ignition coil, I believe), is there anything else I should be looking into?
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I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
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1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 100,000 miles:
Driving out to see my BF this afternoon I noticed when I accelerated it hesitated a bit. I didn't think anything of it so I let it go. Driving home was another story. I was about 5 miles from home coming up to a red light and I started to brake, the light turned green and I hit the accelerator and I got no juice, I got across the highway and started to brake and the brakes locked up, the steering wheel locked up and then I lost all power. I got the Jeep to stop (right at the exit to a train station ) I tried to turn it back on and got no juice. I just got a new battery about 3 weeks ago. I called 911 since I was stuck in the middle of the road right outside the railroad station. Officer asked me to try to crank the engine again, asked if I had gas (have 1/2 tank) and then got me pushed into a spot until I can get a tow to my house in the morning.
The car has been fine, I never put "off" gas in, try not to let the gas get below half a tank.
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When I drive over 55 i have a shaking through the car after driving for a while if you put it in reverse it feels like it is binding up and when you put it in park you can hear a thumping sound coming from the drive train i have replaced both cv shafts in the front (they were bad) and the passenger side hub. I am going to replace the ball joints with after market ones because it pulls to the right and the stock ones do not have a camfer adjustment is the binding a differential problem or a transfer case problem also if while the engine is off if you shift to neutral you can feel it release the tension on the drive train.
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So this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L nonHO. I get a P0308 code that I have not been able to hunt down. It is odd because I only get the code if I restart the vehicle when it is warm. If I let it cool down all the way, no code, but if I restart after an hour or so, the code pops up. I have changed the plugs and the coil. I have run injector cleaner, but not changed the injector as I am nervous about busting the tiny plastic clips with my big meaty paws.
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I get more or less constant wine-like odor in the salon, as well as intermittent burning match (sulphur?) one. These seem to be seeping from the outside, through the ventilation system. The car has a new radiator, and the heater core, there are no apparent coolant leaks.
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Have replaced distributor, spark plugs, coil, and still have very weak, erratic spark. Plugs getting plenty of fuel, won't start. What else I should do?
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I have a 94 buick lesabre custom that is stalling intermittently and runs rough intermittently. We have had it for diagnostics and it could not read the codes. We changed the computer and it still can't read the codes. The diagnostic tool says it cannot connect when it is plugged in or it displays white flecks like snow flakes on the tool screen. It is an OBDII. The pin structure of the data connector port is two pins top row and bottom row two pins some blanks and one pin. We don't know how to fix it with no diagnostic codes and we don't know what to do to get the codes because we have changed the computer.
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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My wife says our 2002 Grand Jeep Cherokee very rarely hesitates as it moves from first to second gear (once every week at most). I've never felt the problem, but she says its happens when from a dead stop into 2nd gear. And she said there are no other times when the vehicle hesitates (fine in every other gear). No other weird noises and the power seems fine. Its an automatic transmission and I've had the fluid and filter changed recently. What it is? Transmission? It is due for some new spark plugs... any chance it could be that?
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About a year ago the oil stopped showing on the dipstick of my 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is the original dipstick. I have changed the oil, filled it according to manual. It runs well, engine has no ticking (unless its low on oil, then I add a quart), pressure is fine. Just no way to check the oil !The tube is still attached from looking at the outside.
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Last summer my wife's 2000 Grand Jeep Cherokee began shutting down while driving (electric stays on) on early hot days after about 40min of driving; even when the AC is off. About 10min later we can restart as before (before that it won't even crank). Over the winter the problem went away but returned again this spring/summer with the hotter weather (>80C). Its not the no battery or alternator and no one can seem to figure out the problem.
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