Jeep - Compass :: 2010 - Losing Power / Hard Acceleration And RPMs Go Up
May 31, 2014
Our ABS light, anti-skid light, and engine light are on. The light came on when 3 year old son hit it. It just never went off. Dealership hooked it up to diagnostics and said we needed to spend almost 500 on a new ABS system. ALSO, at the same time, the car now sounds like its working very hard to accelerate. The rpm's go up, but there is no additional power. Is this connected to the ABS problem, or is this a transmission problem? Took it to a mechanic and he didn't check the transmission. After talking to him, he said it could be the transmission.
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My wife has a 2007 Jeep Compass. The stock stereo stopped working one day. It had no power going to it. My wife's father is a mechanic at a car dealership. He's an older gentleman and isn't very savvy when it comes to modern electronics such as stereos. He tried to fix it for her. He ended up telling her the stereo was "burnt out" and she needed a new one. She was bummed out because the stereo didn't work. I bought her a new aftermarket stereo for her birthday and it came with the installation kit and the adapters and connectors. She asked her father if he could install it for her. He tried and couldn't get it to work. One of his coworkers looked at it and said he suspects there is a "bad wire" somewhere, possibly under the gear shifter? He bench-tested the original stereo and it still works! Where do we look for the "bad wire" ? How do we find it? They haven't been able to find it so far. This model does not have steering wheel controls for the stereo.
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How to get the door panel off of a 2011 Jeep Compass without breaking anything? I'm scared to death to go prying on the thing because I can imagine everything inside falling out on the ground. I'm pretty sure I've removed all the little panels and bolts. The reason I'm doing this is because my power window won't roll up and I'm guessing it's the motor.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Liberty with over 130,000K. I live at 9K feet in elevation in the mountains of Colorado. While driving to Maryland last fall, my Jeep starting periodically (every couple of days; up to 2 times a day) going thru a 'sluggish' phase, typically around 40miles per hour while excelerating, that it loses power & sort of acts like it has bad gas (starts hesitating). I added several bottles of top of the line Fuel Injector Cleaner to the gas tank, as well as the directly into the carbuerator to clean out the system, and used high-octane fuel in numerous tanks while driving from Maryland to Texas. Nothing really made a difference. Had all 4 Oxygen Sensors changed. Problem continued driving thru Dallas, and check engine light came on once, but then went off before I arrived in Colorado Springs. The dealer in Colorado Springs said they were not able to determine problem without the light on. Since then, the jeep does fine at high altitude where I live, but continues to have sluggish problem around same exceleration speed of approx. 40mph at lower elevation only. Getting ready to make another long road trip, and concerned about lack of power when I might need it and/ or car trouble while on the road.
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I have a 2006 Rubicon Wrangler 4.0 (automatic) with 15K miles, excellent cond. When I drive up to the mountains my Jeep loses power to the point I have the gas pedal pushed to the floor, whereas I can jump out of the jeep and run along side of it. When I step on the gas on the freeway going at high speed it dogs down. It runs fine driving around town. I never had this problem before. I don't think its a transmission problem because I have no engine light coming on. I just checked the Catalytic Converter and that's ok. I'm lost, I have no clue what it can be.
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I have a 2012 VW GTI w/ a manual trans. It's a year old and has 15k miles. I bought it new from a VW dealer. Under hard acceleration, the RPMs jump about 500 RPMs for only a second or two and then drop down to where they were previously. During that time, it feels like the transmission slips out of gear and that I have no power. I've noticed this is gears 2-6.
Also, whenever I stop the car and put it into first gear, there's a loud thump that I can both hear and feel coming through the steering wheel and shift knob. It's been doing this since I bought the car. I brought it to VW and they said it's probably just because the gears are still spinning when I put it into first. But it still happens if I wait several seconds to put it into first.
Is this a sign of a bad transmission or one on its way out?
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I have a 3inch cat back exhaust, cold air intake, and a stage 1 apr tune. I just installed a front mount intercooler. When I spool my turbo in 1st gear the car loses all power at 4 grand and just bogs out after that. Rpms keep climbing but the speed doesn't move. What's going on?!
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We were flagged down on the highway by a very nice fellow motorist because we were gushing coolant. It was gushing. My passenger was a guy friend who used to work as an aircraft mechanic and works on his own vehicles, so I deferred to his supposedly greater automotive knowledge when he said I didn't need to call a tow truck. We got to within 100 feet of my mechanic (about 5 miles away) when my poor Jeep conked out after losing power and making an increasingly loud clunking noise for the last 500 or so feet. We pushed it in to the auto repair bay. The engine was smoking and would not start. The mechanic replaced a worn out radiator hose, which had become disconnected from the radiator (due to swelling, I think he said?), and the truck runs. There isn't a discernible difference in the engine performance after driving it around town for the day. My question is this: is the engine likely to be FUBAR and am I just playing a waiting game until it croaks?
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
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My Jeep Compass is a 2008 4x4, about 2,000 under 100,000 miles on it. Normally, it runs like a champ. I get oil changes like clockwork, and every time it's suggested to fix something, I do it. Since last October, it's been a nightmare to drive this thing!
It stalls very frequently at stop signs / stop lights, and I need to leave lots of room between me and other cars so I can steadily inch forward while waiting at the red light, otherwise it will die. It starts up fine, but stopping again and it will die again. It's to the point now that I would rather take the bus to college than drive the stupid thing, which defeats the purpose of having the car with the intention to drive to school.
Stalls / dies, especially when the A/C is on - unbearable to drive when it's raining . Mechanic says they've run diagnostics on the car and nothing shows up...
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I have a 2010 Jeep Patriot and recently it has started to jerk as I am accelerating. When I get to about 2200-2500 RPM the engine feels like I have completely let off the gas and then put my foot back down on it. Once it showed the Electronic Throttle Control warning light but I have not seen that light again in the past month or so. Originally I thought it might be the spark plugs, but I have changed those and seen no improvement. What could be wrong???
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This has been an ongoing issue for months. I fill up the Compass's gas tank all the way and, at the next stop light or paused traffic, it will stall. My workaround is to fill the gas tank almost all the way full and it doesn't stall. But, what could be causing this issue? I've seen repair suggestions for things such as power control module valve and connector switch for fuel pump, but haven't seen anything definitive.
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I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
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i have an 07 jeep compass (only 52k miles). it was making a loud rattling noise (i liken the sound to the noise a penny or pebble makes when its sucked up a vacuum). I pulled off for gas last night and it just wouldn't turn back on. AAA was able to jump the battery and i was able to drive home. Now its dead again. i previously had an issue where the car was stalling when idle (only if it was in drive). I'm thinking the rattling, battery draining and stalling must all be connected.
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We have an 07 Jeep Compass, 2.4L, 4WD. About 3 months ago we started to get a creaking/squeaking noise out of the rear suspension. First time I looked at it I found a lot of rust on the calipers and rotors, so new calipers, rotors and pads. Got quieter for a week or so, then it started again. Put the rear up on jack stands and pulled the wheels again. Used a 4' pipe to move the suspension up and done. Had a little bit of noise, but I could not pinpoint the source. Soaked all the bushings with light weight oil and put it back on the road.
A little better for a day or so, but still creaking. Had a problem with one of the new pads (the latest friction material, no abestos, no copper), so back on the stands and change the brakes again. Same thing, quieter for a day or so, then back to creaking. It does this at slow speeds in parking lots. Don't really hear it on the highway. Took it to a dealer for state inspection and told them find the squeak. Claimed they could not hear it.
My daughter drove the mechanic around, no noise. 5 miles after it left the dealer it is back. There is a TSB for parking brake cables with a boot failure. Checked our over the weekend and boots are good, cables are not rubbing. It seems if you fully extend the suspension by jacking it up, that makes it better for a day or so, then its back. Sprayed every joint with Lithium grease last time.
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My hight beam went off and doesn't work anymore ..my fuse box is the problem and i dont want to replace it cuz its too expensive maybe a chip inside not work right and in my car when i switch the gear to d the hight beam turns on On 6 volts day and night . Now its doesn't work ether the 6 or 12 volts .. How to fix it?
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My son has a 2007 jeep compass 2.4l engine. He needs to change the crankshaft position sensor. Where to find it? He got a pic from autozone but you can't tell where it is on the engine.
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I have a 2007 automatic jeep compass that is stalling. heres the thing, it only stalls when i am idle at a red light/stop sign. I also noticed it only stalls when its in drive. if i switch the car to neutral while stopped/idle it will not stall. i also notice this happens more frequently in the rain.
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I had to break suddenly last night, and my phone (attached to the AUX cable at the time) bounced up under the wheel, gaining access by the accelerator and break pedals. I can hear it vibrate, but cannot feel the vibrations or touch the phone by reaching up under there - and I am worried I will disconnect the wires if I continue to rummage.
I removed the base of the steering wheel column, but did not find my phone, I guess it is wedged too far into the workings of my car Jeep Compass 2007.
I have two questions. could I remove the plastic facing by the windshield without dismantling the car (I can't tell from the manual)
is it safe to drive with my phone in this position? I'm worried it might disconnect the break fluid or something as I try to drive it to the mechanic.
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