Golf/GTI VI :: Noticed A Series Of Misfires
Jan 25, 2011
Yesterday it was the coldest day my car has ever experienced at -27*C or -16F. I only live about 10 minutes from work in stop and go traffic so the car barely reached operating temp as I was arriving to work.
After about 10 hours, I went outside at the end of the day, the temps had warmed slightly and I started the car and let it idle for about 1 minute before driving off. After about 45 seconds I got a series of what seemed to be misfires. The EPC light flashed but eventually turned off, and where the odometer normally appears there was an exclamation point next to a symbol that looked like cruise had been activated. A message appeared in the MFD to the effect of "malfunction - bring car for service"
I reved the car slightly a few times-all seemed good- and left. All was good. Stopped the car a few blocks after and restarted and the warning symbol was gone and all was back to normal.
Today has been warmer and there have been no issues with it.
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i have a 2007 gti and this is my first winter with the car and i live in a pretty cold climate and i've noticed quite a bit of white sludge under my oil cap from moisture and oil and i was wondering if there is anything i can do about this and i don't have a catch can and its not coolant i've noticed this happening since about 3 months now (since it went below zero) and my coolant level hasn't moved at all.
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My car was just in the shop for the 30K service and the tech noticed quite a bit of oil leaking from the gasket between the CTS pcv system and the engine. He said that because the catch can lacks the ability to release the pressure coming from the engine, it started to eat at the gasket and it now leaks... he recommended that I take the catch can off. I thought the system vented pressure into the intake...
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I washed the R this past weekend and noticed that hey are covering my car from front to back, and even on the glass. I am looking to perform this work myself.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta wagon, 2.0l bev engine, 5 spd. I just recently replaced both oxygen sensors due to codes that popped up, but have noticed recently the gas mileage and performance have decreased. Now I get the code 16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold P0420. The car passed smogged and all the readiness codes passed. One major noticeable different, is when I apply the gas, it is not accerlating like it should.
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Dealership put some dye in the oil last week and they're checking it today but they said it seems like it's getting flung around when it hits the axles. Waiting on a loaner because they want to hold it and let it run to see what happens. Whenever I look under it in my garage I see oil buildup on the oil pans passenger side and see a drop about the size of a dime.
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I know it's stupid but rattles and vibrations in an otherwise quiet car drive me absolutely crazy.
So, driving I have noticed this slight non-metallic vibration type noise. It seemed to come and go. So I emptied the car thinking it might be something I was carrying around. No such luck. Turned off the climate control, still there. I had the better half drive while I searched. I could never really see anything but thought it sounded like it might be either in the dash or around the floor area. Totally frustrated I unbuckle my seatbelt and crawl into the passenger floor head first. Nothing on the passenger side. I glance over to the Driver side footwell and notice the slightest vibration from a panel that covers the steering shaft as it goes through the firewall right behind the pedals. Aha! A plastic panel being held in place by 2 plastic type screws that are both loose. i tighten them down with a straight screw driver when I get home and silence! The rattle goes away. You might look at yours as well. I think this might apply to all Mk5 cars. Finding/Fixing a rattle like this for me is like finding money.
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Been a common problem for years and recently got one in the shop for the concern with the EGR port plugging up and then dumping all the egr into the one cylinder that is not plugged causing a misfire off idle. Many know of this concern but I have yet to see a good example of it. I show you some easy diagnosis before you pull the upper plenum to inspect the ports.
This video is hosted at YouTube . If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later.
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Besides being spark plugs and wires and/or a bad coil pack, what other things could make it so i have misfires on cylinders 4 and 6? going to replace the plugs and wires later today when they get to my house but i just want to know what other things i could be so I can evaluate the potential repair cost and should the wires for cylinders 4,5, and 6 be under or over the intake manifold? I bought my truck used and they are currently under the manifold i think it would make more sense to have them over personally.
I have a 1997 Ranger 4WD with the 6 cylinder 4.0L engine. I can't remember the codes that it tripped at the moment but i think one might have been the 304 code not sure though.
I tripped the 300,304, and 306 code but don't know about any others i remembered what codes i tripped the other day when i had it scanned
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As I was loading a bag into the back of my GTI, I noticed water running down the drivers side. It seems to be coming out of where the driver's side back seat belt holder is. It's leaking down into the little compartment as well. Don't know the extent of the damage yet as I haven't had any time to look, The interior ceiling of the car is dry. Leaking into the side compartment as well...
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Posting this on behalf a friend. He has a '97 Ranger 2.3, 5 speed, 2WD, no A/C or power steering. No trouble codes.
The Problems:
It has an erratic random misfire at idle. Just runs very rough at idle. The misfiring goes away once the engine speed is up.
It has absolutely no power while driving, it's foot the floor all the time. On a straight piece of road it will top out at around 65-70 MPH. Above ~2700 RPM or so and it will start getting severe detonation, by 4000 it's really bad.
Along with the no power issue, it also does not like to rev. 4300-4500 RPM is about the end of the world for this thing, and it really does not want to spin any faster in any gear. It just stops pulling.
What we've done and checked: Complete tune up, 8 new spark plugs, 8 new wires, new fuel filter and cleaned the MAF. Fuel pressure seemed a couple PSI low, so the regulator was changed out as well. No change in operation.
We have access to a scan tool with live data, so I checked some things out:
The O2 sensor reports a rich condition while wide open throughout the entire RPM range, so it's not a fuel delivery problem.
Fuel trims are normal, +/- 5-7% or so.
Calculated load was at 100%, pretty much from idle to 4500 RPM while wide open. This is very odd, as it usually takes a very high-strung N/A engine to hit 100% load at any RPM, let alone the entire RPM range.
Other things we've done:
We checked the reported ignition timing advance on the scan tool to the actual timing with a timing light, and it matched up perfectly, so no issues there.
However, I noticed that the timing light was flashing erratically at idle, and behaved slightly differently when clipped to the rear coil pack vs the front. Once the revs were up, the timing light flashed in a consistent manner.
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Well my car is crapping out lately,
I put a new steering rack in my mk4 1.8t jetta about a week before I parked it for winter. I went out to the garage yesterday and noticed a pool of PS fluid on the ground, I located one very small leak from the bottom banjo bolt on the rack (needs new crush washers, Was in a rush and didn't have time to pick new ones up :bang head: ).
But the part that confuses me is there is a puddle on/under the passenger side subframe, the rack boot appears to be dry, and I don't believe the new rack is faulty, they are supposed to be all tested and approved before reaching the buyer. and when I turn the car on I can't see a leak anywhere even with the wheel off and a decent view of the rack.
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How the cylinders are numbered as your facing the car from the front left to right (forgot the order) so I can replace coil packs on cyl 5&6 (238 misfires in 2min is not good).
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So I have never worked on the 2.5 before, I have an 01 A4 1.8T so I am used to VAG products though. The other day my neighbor had a CEL light, when I read the code it was a misfire in cylinder 2. Since it was a single cylinder I told him it was most likely a coil pack but asked if he had ever done plugs. He bought the car with around 60k and it now has 90k but he didn't think they were ever done. So I suggested swapping them out with the new coil pack. So he bought a (5) plugs and (3) coils since that is all they had local. Initially he just replaced the one coil and said the car was running great. Then when he had time he threw the new plugs in (Autolite Iridium don't recall #) and put the other coils in. After doing this the car went into limp mode and is showing random misfires in all cylinders. He pulled one of the new plugs and noticed that the dimensions of the plug appear different than the OEM plug.
The OEM plug has a longer threaded section so it would project into the cylinder further and the insulator on the new plug appears to have several rubber seals on it. Since he is getting misfires on all cylinders I would think it is plug related especially since the plugs are dimensionaly different, but he even checked the manufacturers website and they say these are a direct replacement. Did they change the plug design or is this a known issue with some cross references?
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I am out of town for the weekend and my car just decided to throw a CEL and EPC light. Immediately felt a loss of power and I thought maybe limp mode. Got to my friends house, turned it off, and now when I turn it back on, it feels like it is miss fireing (I think, I dont know because I dont know what miss firing is supposed to feel like) The car is vibrating at low RPM and it does not sound smooth if you know what I mean but it smooths out if I give it a bit of gass, but not compleatly.
Could this be a bad ECU? (thought maybe since the EPC light was on but I dont know if that means ECU or something else) but the EPC light has not come back on when I restart it, but the CEL does blink continuously. It is Saturday night and I have a 2.5 hour drive tomorrow. Obviously no way to get it looked at it tomorrow, so can I limp it home at 40? The car has not failed to start yet, and I thought a bad EPC would mean the car would not start.Or if I can just drive real slow.
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I am getting random misfires on cylinders 4, 5, and 6. Mostly on 6, less on 5, and even less on 4. Cylinders 1-2-3 show ZERO misfires. I am using vag-com to monitor these. Mostly doing it on idle, cruise seems fine but occasionally when shifting I feel it when engaging the next gear. It doesn't buck but I feel a little hesitation. Cruising and accelerating I do not feel it. Its very strange. A couple times during extended idling I have even gotten a flashing CEL. Fuel mileage has been pretty bad ever since I got the car in December. Average tank gets me 250-270.
I tried swapping coils with 123, and the problem stayed on 456. Coils are all new since I got the car. Plugs are fairly new (under 5K) and I pulled a couple to check, they looked fine and gap was about .028. I might try a new set but my gut is telling me the problem is some where else. I would like to verify/test grounds but I don't know where the harness grounds out.
I also want to get a vacuum gauge on the FPR, or check fuel pressure at idle. I replaced one cracked vacuum line, i am thinning there might be others since there seems to be miles of vacuum line on MK4's. Also have a new fuel filter to install, mine appears to be OEM and the car has 97K.
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My girlfriend's MkV Jetta 2.0T is throwing a code for misfires in Cylinders 1 and 2. I've already switched out the plugs and coilpacks with no change. I'm going to try re-positioning the coilpacks to see if the code follows. In doing some research, someone mentioned that it could be fouling on the injectors, which led me to BG44K. She has >215K miles. I figure she's gotta have some fouling that could be cleaned up. I have ~110K miles on my R32 - I figure it wouldn't hurt to do some cleaning in my own car.
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In the last few months, I've been having misfires at idle. I didn't realize at first what the vibration was, since I had cams installed over the summer and had my flywheel replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the plugs and coil packs and for a couple of days, it ran fine. Tonight, they started up again, mostly in a single cylinder. I swapped out coil packs - no change. Switched plugs between two cylinders - the misfire followed the plug. Swapped in an old plug - things improved, misfires went from 2-3 per second to maybe one every 5-10 seconds. Few to no misfires when revs go up. My battery is 5 years old, could that be an issue? Wire harnesses - do they go bad?
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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I'm getting random misfires on all 5 cylinders on my 2013 2.5L with ~4200miles. Sometimes the CEL will stay on other times it just flashes and goes away. I've gone to multiple dealers and none of them has done anything but clear the codes because "we couldn't replicate the issue," or "It's just rev hang/drive by wire."
What are the known causes of a brand new car misfiring? And what should I have VW look at?
When I mentioned that our family has a 2007 Eos all three dealers were chomping at the bit for me to bring it in for recalls I didn't even know about. This really rubbed me the wrong way. I've got one car that I KNOW is malfunctioning that VW won't do any work on, but the other VW is volunteering to work on!
I've got another appointment set for tomorrow after I get off work. How to push the right buttons or say the right words?
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My GF recently picked up a 1.8t (AWW) and we scanned it with vag com before she bought. We knew it had some misfires and a few other small problems so when it ran at higher RPMs we didn't think anything of it.
Fast forward to now after replacing some parts (hoses, coil packs etc...) and still the RPMs seem a little high compared to my mk4 vr6. On the streets in 4th gear, my car stays around 2200 and on the hwy its probably around 3300 in 5th gear at 75mph.
On the streets, her 1.8t seems normal but on the hwy in 5th gear, she's at nearly 4k. So my question... Do 1.8ts run at higher rpms under normal driving?
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