Jeep - Cherokee :: RPMs Rev Up To 3500 - 4500 / Jolt Before Going Into Next Gear
Apr 7, 2013
Just got a 1996 Jeep cherokee with right hand drive, 73,000 miles. Drove it less than 2500 miles when had problems with it shifting out of first gear. Would rev up the rpms to 3500 to 4500 and then a large jolt before going into next gear. Took to transmission specialist who was able to get it to act up., Now he tells me that the transmission is an import??? (was manufactured here in states and sent to Japan) Can't get the codes on the machine to tell him what is wrong with the tranny., says the codes say it is ok. Now what do I do. I need this car as I am a mail carrier and it was bought for that purpose.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. I recently have been having issues with the transmission. When I'm in fourth gear, I will sometimes feel a sudden jolt, and then the rpms will go up, and the engine will seem to be working harder and be noisier. When I then come to a stop and then try to accelerate again, the acceleration is very slow, as if the car is still in a high gear. When I turn the car off and then on, the car accelerates fine again. Since then, I have put the car into overdrive off, and haven't had any problems. If the problem is in the fourth gear, could I just use overdrive off consistently and not fix the problem? Could that somehow cause more damage or be bad for the engine? I put about 50 highway miles on the car each day. But I only plan on doing so for the next ten months or so, then I will generally only be using it for short trips around the neighborhood.
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92 Jeep Cherokee 4wd, 4.0 motor, automatic. Several things have been done recently, new timing chain, coil, distributor and cap, map sensor, computer, cam shaft timing sensor. motor now will start and run. It runs well at idle, but the timing gets all out of whack as the RPM's increase. Is there a knock sensor on this motor, and could it cause this? If so, where is it located?
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1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter, 156000 miles, Auto trans, It dies while driving. RPMs drop and it dies. Then starts right back up.
These things have already been replaced
cam shaft sensorcrank shaft positioning sensorfuel filterPlugs/Wires/Distributor Cap
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I've noticed a noise coming from my car (2014 IS350 RWD) that sounds like a light, irregular rattle, when the engine is running in the 3500 - 4500 RPM range. I don't hear it necessarily under load, but if I am in manual mode in a lower gear, and let off the throttle, I can hear it.
The best way I can describe the noise is like a bowl of rice crispies (rapid and random), only slightly louder. You have to listen for it, the road/traffic should be quiet, and if you get back on the gas, the intake noise that's plumbed into the cabin pretty much covers it up. I can also hear it in Park or Neutral.... I've wondered if it's a loose heat shield, or an exhaust issue, but I can't hear it standing next to the car or with my head under the hood. I only hear it from the cabin. The rhythm of the noise is irregular.
I don't think it's ping/detonation, since that usually shows up under load, is much louder and has a decidedly metallic sound to it compared to what I'm hearing.
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I have a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and when I first got it, it revved too high well now it revs too low, when im at a stop light it revs at just barely above 0 RPMS and the engine will cut off. it just ate shutting off yesterday. I took my car back to the dealership to get it fixed and they said "there's nothing wrong with it" well now I just passed my warranty and it starts shutting off on me.
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When cranking, i have to give it gas and rev it til it smooths out. Eventually it will run smoothly. When i throw it in gear, it wants to sputter and die out. If I put in D, i have to give it gas or it dies, but I can only barely touch the gas or it dies out. There is a vacuum leak in brake booster, but ive been told the headgasket could be blown.I want to know if the head gasket could be a problem and if its worth replacing the booster.
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I thought my transmission was not going into 2 gear, but it is. But it ain't going into 1st gear. Just found out today.
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I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee, 2wd, 4 cylinder, manual transmission, I have had some work done on it. Recently, I had the clutch redone, then I had a tune-up and the motor mounts replaced.
After the motor mounts were done, I was unable to get the vehicle into gear. My mechanic adjusted the clutch pedal and it was running as long as I did not put it into reverse. I had driven it about 3 miles from my house, parked it.
Came out to start it a couple of hours later and it would not turn over. It wanted to start but no engagement. I had to have it towed to my house where my mechanic could check it out.
Since that time, we have determined that it is not the fuel pump, we changed out the fuel injectors, replaced the coil, replaced the crankshaft sensor and it is still doing the same thing. Have gone through all the suggested remedies.
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My manual transmission 1995 Jeep Cherokee today refused to go into any gear after I had stopped for a light. After pushing it to the side of the road I was about to call AAA when it went into gear and worked perfectly thereafter. This happened once before about a month ago. What could be the problem and how likely am I to get stuck for good?
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Dashboard lights out, on 1999 jeep cherokee. seem string because transmission gear level lights is also out. on the floor.
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I have a 1995 jeep Cherokee country that has 130k miles. I have notice that when I shift from park to drive, park to reverse, drive to reverse or vice versa It makes this thud noise after placing it in gear. Is this a sign that the transmission is about to go out ? What action should I take? By the way its a automatic transmission
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4. I lifted it with a Rubicon Express 3.5" lift and had some drive line vibrations. So, I decided to purchase a slip yoke eliminator and use a rebuilt front drive shaft for the rear. I also starting having steering issues. The pump was leaking and the gear box was shot. Other than it leaking PS fluid all of the time, it wasn't a huge issue and was steering perfectly fine. I had a friend install the SYE, new steering pump and gear box in the same day.
When I drove away, there was a slight rumble from the rebuilt drive shaft and my steering was all screwed up. I could barely turn into a parking space. U-turns were completely out of the question. I assumed the issue was that the new gear box was off center and have been waiting for my friend to have the time to redo the job.
In the mean time, I decided to investigate the rumbling drive shaft on my own. So I removed the front driveshaft and swapped it with the rear. Problem solved! The rumble is gone! I am going to rebuild a different drive shaft for the rear and in the meantime, drive without a front driveshaft. Interestingly, my steering issue has completely disappeared. I can now do tight u-turns and park without a single issue. What the heck is causing the issue?
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My wife and I just bought a pre-owned 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 60,000 miles that just started to make a whistle sound on initial acceleration and deceleration when the engine is warm and the transmission is in gear and moving. The sound does not happen with a cold engine, when the transmission is in park, or neutral. A local mechanic checked it for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. He thought it may be a dirty throttle body, so I cleaned that out really well, but the whistle didn't go away (it did make the jeep run a lot smoother!). It's difficult to pinpoint the noise since it only happens when the vehicle is actually moving.
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My 2001 jeep cherokee sport had a transfer case boot replaced a few months ago where the "oil spinner?" is near the rear portion. Before that went out i had periodic noise that i narrowed down to the transfer case using a mechanics stethoscope. Now i have a cluncking noise with gear grinding sounds periodically between 15-35 mph. I have annecdotal evidence from another forum that it may be the oil pump in the transfere case related to a TSB, yet i cannot find this TSB. Am i on the right track? It appears that i can get an oil pump for $60 but i have to consider dropping the case myself and pulling it apart.
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2002 grand cherokee... Just took her in on Friday to have valve cover and oil pan leaks fixed, and within an hour of picking it up today the automatic transmission won't get out of 1st gear… rpms rising and can't exceed about 29 mph. Straight 6 engine. Any chance the mechanic messed something up, like a throttle cable or something, or is this just terrible karma?
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2.0T's having problems with fuel rails or fuel pump at 30,000 miles using GIAC chip. Just got back from induktion motorsports with a friend. He was having problems with fuel cut at about 4500 rpms. Holds boost up to 22lbs for some reason and then just drops down holding no boost at certain rpms between 5th and 6th gear getting on it. Car doesn't go past 80 mph until the turbo comes back (When it wants to) guys up at induktion said its prob the fuel rail or pump. They ran three different tests on the car and car still ran the same using the chip program (93 octane) and stock mode.
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1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
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Experience a hissing sound from stereo, specifically mark levinson. The hissing sounds occur from certain songs and when the engineer rpms are around 4500.
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Symptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
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I have a '96 Saturn SL with a 1.9 SOHC. I recently removed the engine and transmission to change the clutch. I also changed the timing chain guides, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals and motor mounts. After I put it back in, it revs to 3500-4000 rpms and is very rich (so rich it smokes). I replaced the throttle position sensor since it had a crack at the plug and to see if that was the problem. I have looked at everything again and nothing is jumping out at me.
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