Jeep - Cherokee :: Passenger Side Power Window Popped Open
Mar 3, 2011
I have a 2004 Jeep Cherokee and the passenger window recently popped open. Something is wrong with the power windows (I can't shut it either automatically, or manually).
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I have a low-mid pitched chunky clunking sound/feel in the front end of my jeep. It MAY be there because I drove over a cattle guard (auto gate for some of you) and one of the iron pieces popped up and hit the under of my car. on the right front underbody. Not sure what it hit. No body damage. A few days later I felt/hear clunking. Not so much on highway. Worse at slower speeds and on more irregular surfaces, bumps in streets/gravel roads.
There is a scratch on one of the stabilizer bars where it loops down near the wheel. The one on the right will move slightly when you give it a good shake. The left one is solid.
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Yesterday my passenger front window popped out of it's track. Then when we tried to pop it back in and get it to go back up, it completely popped out and up about 3 inches from the frame of the door. Enough to be able to fit a had through no problem.
I am taking the car in tomorrow to have it looked at and get a quote to fix. From what I've read, it's a super pricey fix. So bummed because I just bought the car about 6 weeks ago (if that) ...
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Replaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
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My passenger side rear window will not open. Is there a fuse for this or is the motor just bad?
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So last night I go to pick up my daughter and the doors are unlocked but her door won't open. I try from the outside and no luck. I get in the back on the driver's side and the lock button is on. I open the door with some difficulty and it opens. It's been fine since.
Today I tried to open that window and the window wouldn't open from my console or from the rear passenger side switch.
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I have a 1997 Jeep Cherokee that has decided to not let me open its hatch anymore. I live in Alaska, the land of rough and bumpy roads, so why am I surprised this has happened? I know the objective is to make the connection with the latch happen again, but what I am really hesitant about is getting to the latch itself. Do I really have to rip off the panel and risk it never going back where it came from? How do you still make it look pretty?
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We just replaced the #5 injector. Went to take for a test drive and the 4 glow plug caps on passenger side popped off and leaking oil while driving. Pushed them back on and they popped off again. They shouldn't be under pressure should they.
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My passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.
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So the two windows on the passenger side have fallen and can't get up. These regulators you gotta buy to fix the problem cost a ton, and just as much to have installed. Why on earth can you not buy the little plastic brackets to fix the problem instead of the whole regulator? If there IS a way to buy these brackets, it would be keen to know...
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A quick question for those with a manual. I was out with the kids yesterday and the passenger side tie rod end popped off. Luckily we were only backing up at the time, but the bad part was we were in the middle of no where and had to go home with my wife as we took both cars. But, I had to leave the car there. Anyway, what is the size of the castle nut that attaches the tie rod end? I want to be sure as the vehicle is about 40 miles from home.
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I've a 1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0In the morning when it's cold the motor sounds like it's in high rev but the jeep isn't really moving all that fast - just more noise than speed. After it warms up it has plenty of pep and can leave rubber. What is the problem with it?
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My 2000 VW Passat (V6) is acting up. My power window/locks on the front passenger side aren't working. All the other doors and windows are fine, but the dealership wants to charge a lovely $1000 for "window modules"...
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I'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee which I bought used. Last oil change they told me that the power steering pump was leaking. The leak was not enough to be seen, but it did seem to make some noise every once in a while so I took it in to get a new power steering pump at the dealer. Two days after they put the new pump in, power steering fluid was pouring out on the driveway, it was a really big puddle of fluid. I had to put new fluid in to drive it five miles back to the dealer. They said that it needed a new line, they were not sure why it needed a new line, they guessed because of the high mileage, 164,000 miles.
I told them that my Mercury has 287,000 miles on it and has never had the power steering pump replaced or the line either. I have driven most every car I ever owned 300,000 miles and have never replaced a power steering pump or line. But anyway, when the Jeep was supposed to be ready, they told me that the new line blew up spraying fluid all over the shop as soon as they started the Jeep and they had to get new parts so it would take another day or two. My question is what caused the new line to blow? My thinking is there must have been something wrong with the new pump or with the installation, somehow it was outputting too much pressure, anything that could blow a new line, would blow the old line.
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I had a little run in with a curb a few months back, nothing major, just came up and bit me, and the passenger side plastic grill covering the foglight popped out. Since then it's come compltely out, onto the street, twice, when my car bottoms out. Both times it's happened I've been going no more that 5-10mph and I don't even realize it's missing 'till I'm back in the driveway.
The car in the picture isn't mine, just something to show what I'm talking about. My 2001 passat wagon (v6 4motion) bottoms way too much. It's not even lowered.
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Chrome trim on passenger side near headlight popped out some of it broken (only the pieces on the inside) any way I could salvage this trim without having to buy a new 1?...
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Brooklyn mechanic says "every Jeep Cherokee 2000 6 cyl. 4x4 has this problem--number 3 cylinder mis-fires because it can get too hot". When I return from the country to the city, unload Jeep at the apartment, then, after about 15 minutes, re-start Jeep, it bucks and rumbles and misfires with no power from motor. I pump the gas pedal, and after about a minute it settles down.
Country mechanic has done smoke tests, looked all over for any compression leak, replaced gas cap, put insulation tape over #3 cylinder, and reported that this problem is in the "data bank" of Cherokee problems, where ever that data bank is. The question is, can one live with this problem, or will it cause more problems? Why does the motor settle down after pumping the gas pedal for about a minute? I've had the starter coil replaced recently, as I was told it can get fried from too much mis-firing.
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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We just upgraded our Prius from Gen 3 to Gen 3....a 2012. Great ride, just drove it from SoCal on a Sierra Mtns road trip, a little hiking and snowboarding for our spring break. What we failed to notice upon purchase was a passenger door whose controls want work! The drivers door can lock the car and operate the passenger window and lock. However, the passenger door switch won't open or close the window, nor will it lock the door. All other doors and locks work normally.
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We were flagged down on the highway by a very nice fellow motorist because we were gushing coolant. It was gushing. My passenger was a guy friend who used to work as an aircraft mechanic and works on his own vehicles, so I deferred to his supposedly greater automotive knowledge when he said I didn't need to call a tow truck. We got to within 100 feet of my mechanic (about 5 miles away) when my poor Jeep conked out after losing power and making an increasingly loud clunking noise for the last 500 or so feet. We pushed it in to the auto repair bay. The engine was smoking and would not start. The mechanic replaced a worn out radiator hose, which had become disconnected from the radiator (due to swelling, I think he said?), and the truck runs. There isn't a discernible difference in the engine performance after driving it around town for the day. My question is this: is the engine likely to be FUBAR and am I just playing a waiting game until it croaks?
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