Jeep - Cherokee :: Low / Fluctuating Oil Pressure Gauge And Spiking Temps At Idle
May 27, 2012
I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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95 jeep cherokee. My oil pressure gauge sometimes jumps up to 80lbs or bobs between 40 and 80lbs. Could this be anything other than sensor or gauge itself?
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
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For the first ten minutes after my car is started (until it warms up), the oil gauge drops to 0 while accelerating. When I take my foot off the gas, it goes back up. After the car is warm, the gauge works fine and unless the car cools completely down, it gives me no more trouble until the next morning. We have tried:
1. Changing the sending unit (twice);
2. Changing the oil;
3. Working on the electrical contacts;
4. Cleaning all of the parts around it.
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So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
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The Oil Gauge on the Instrument panel of my '99 Jeep Cherokee Classic is pegged fully to the right (TWICE the normal reading) when the vehicle is Stopped at a Light or stop sign. As I accelerate the needle drops down to NEARLY normal but pegs again as I decelerate to a stop. The engine sounds normal, operates like normal, no smells, oil level on dipstick is OK. What's up with this?
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I purchased a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo at a steal . . . I've already replaced the head gasket sealant. My biggest current concern is the fuel pressure. The car either starts up beautifully or sputters and gurgles for a good 5 seconds before finally idling normally (either occur during cold or warm starts).
The sputtering at start-up has become more commonplace as of late. If I drive away without providing a good three-to-five minute warm-up, the car will drive as normal while applying gas pressure to the peddle, then once gas pressure is no longer applied, the car dies silently; The battery stays on, but all power steering and engine power disappear and the car coast into nothingness. If I allow the Jeep to warm up significantly, it will drive as normal for hours, except for it's struggles to compensate long upward hills.
The fuel regulator has a slight leak. Worse at start-up, lessens up over time. The seal may be improperly seated, but is in physical working condition as I can tell. Spark plugs were replaced. Battery was replaced. Injectors have been tightened. There is a slight oil leak (it seems to move around a bit), but is far better since the Head Gasket was replaced. Could this be a bad fuel regulator or something else that I have missed?
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I have recently cleaned my throttle body and still have a rough idle. The rough idle is intermittent and especially occurs when I am in park and then hold on the brake and switch to reverse or forward without pressing the accelerator down and let it sit for a second. When it happens, it is usually so rough it wants to just stall out if I don't give it some gas.
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2015 Jeep Cherokee 2.4 engine. Engine is very noisy at idle. Not noticeable when driving. It has variable valve timing or valve lift. I also has a big black hat on the engine, I wonder if that is supposed to quiet the engine some, if so it isn't working.
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I have a 2003 gti 1.8t motor with 80,000 miles on it. I have been experiencing the temp gauge spiking to 260 when driving around and any time over 50mph. The car is not over heating and I just replaced the temp sensor and it did not solve the problem. The check engine code was something like coolant temp sensor low input i cleared the code after changing the sensor and has not come back on.
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For three years now my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo will whistle. Usually when the engine is cold. When the vehicle is idling in the driveway or at stoplights, whenever I take my foot off the accelerator it will whistle too. The only time it won't whistle is when the gas pedal is being pressed. I've had it to a number of different shops to be serviced but once the car is inside or the engine is warmed it will never whistle for the mechanic looking at the vehicle. I've been told that it could be related to the IAC motor.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
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I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport edition, automatic transmission, about 100k miles. Recently, when I turn on the engine -- sometimes -- it is very loud, and the car really shakes back and forth (in place) with the engine. It almost feels like the car is going to die. It feels like a very bad idle. If I wait, nothing changes. If I turn the car off, wait, and turn it back on, nothing changes. If I hit the gas, it continues, but decreases very quickly and by the time I hit a stop sign or red light (let's say 100 yards away), the car is more or less fine; no more fear that it's going to die, although there's still some noise that seems like it's coming from somewhere between the transmission and engine. I had the starter replaced last June (when it went kaput) and replaced the idle control valve a couple of months ago (the car kept dying when I came to a complete stop). I mainly drive it to/from work, about 50 miles each way, going 45-80 mph on a hilly freeway, and there have been no problems while driving.
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My oil pressure gauge jumps all over the place when I get over 3000 rpms. At lower rpms it is in the normal range and the engine sounds ok. How can I tell if this is the oil pump or the sending unit or the gauge? This is a 1980 CJ5 with a 151ci 4 cylinder.
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I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
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I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, replaced the oil pump with a new one and washed oil pan and replace the pump screen. After driving for about 30 minutes when at an idle/low speed the oils pressure goes low enough to set the check engine light on. The motor sound good sometime there is a little clacker, oil sending unit replaced and have installed a mechanical gauge... What else will cause this?
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My gas gauge is moving up and down like when I start up the car the gas indicator will go down to the middle when my gas is full. My car is a 2003 toyota camry.
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When I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
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My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
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