Jeep - Cherokee :: Heater Not So Warm / Tiny Leak In The Cooling System Somewhere
Dec 18, 2011
This problem is from last winter. 95 Jeep Cherokee. After about -10 it just doesn't produce much heat. Heater fan works fine. Jeep runs plenty warm..but what i neglected to mention and or forgot to consider is... I have a tiny leak in the cooling system somewhere. I added just a small amount of coolant a couple of times over the summer and have witnessed a small amount of steam (not lately for whatever reason) coming from the front of engine compartment. I can't find the leak. My question is :Could this cause enough loss of pressure to affect the cabin heating system.....
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My wife's 2000 Jeep Cherokee has a failing A/C system. Last year it was blowing warm air in the middle of the summer so I took it to a local mechanic who recharged the freon and it was fine through the rest of the summer. This year it is blowing warm again so we took it in for another recharge and it only lasted a few days. The mechanic said there is a leak at the evaporator coil(?) He said the entire dash needs to be removed to repair and it would run about $1000 to fix. This seems a bit steep. Any thoughts or experience with this issue?
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It works great for the first 5 minutes and gets icebox cold. I can almost see my breath then the system starts blowing warm air and stays that way. I've had the coolant recharged and the shop tells me there is nothing wrong with it. Of course it works for them.
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Got F-150 4.6 cooling system leak on the heater line (farthest back line) coming out of the block. Fitting looks to be steel. How does it attach/ do I need to remove the Intake to replace?
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, 6 cylinder car is in Tallahassee, florida and when the temperature is warm outside in the spring and summer and the car has been driven for awhile and is stopped (like for shopping) and you try to start it again, it will not start. However if you wait for awhile like 20-45 minutes the car will start but will rough idle for a little while and then it will smooth out and go ok. This appears to be random and does not happen in the fall and winter months.
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I bought a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo about 3-4 months ago. One problem i have is that the heat wont switch from the floor. I've heard the motor that does this is called the mode actuator, which moves a flap to direct air to different ducts, etc. I've checked all vacuum line that i could see, nothing. It is quite hard to work on as everything is literally jammed under the dash. It is also quite dangerous as I cannot defrost my windshield in the winter. I get a tiny bit of heat up to the defroster, but not a lot. Heat works very well, but cannot switch from floor. Cant even hear the little hiss that you get on other cars when you switch. I just have the basic 3 knob fan speed, directional flow, and temp knobs, as well as an A/C button.
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I have a 2008 Laredo which has been working fine until about about 6 months ago the ac/heat fan blowers continue to blow either hot or cold air even when the setting is in the off position. The blowers intensify when I accelerate. What the problem could be? The other minor problem is the fan directional. If I have it set to blow on my legs only, it also comes out of the window defrost.
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I have a 95 jeep Cherokee and have lost all power to my radio, heater, wipers and turn signals, i have checked all fuses and replace a relay i thought may have been bad, I have yet to find any inline fuses that may cause the issue.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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My 1996 Jeep Cherokee A/C system pushes cold air but out of the defroster vents not the A/C vents. Why this is happening? I suspect it is the slide switches for the A/C system but I am not sure and do not want to take the dash apart before I have some confirmation. I have checked the vacuum hoses with the heater/A/C system and they seem fine.
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4x4 four liter inline 6. have a coolant drip at bottom radiator hose, change hose. but still drip. Could water pump be leaking. and it running down on the bottom radiator hose.
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I have had a Jeep Grand Cherokee for about 4 years. Over the last year or so, I have been having coolant loss. At first, it was very little over the course of a month. Now it is about a half a gallon over a few days. We can't find any leaks. The oil does not appear milky. There is a bit of moisture under the valve cover. What could be the problem?
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I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
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I have a 2001 530i BMW experiencing an overheating problem. I replaced hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump, alternator, both belts all of which went fine. However still loosing anti-freeze, it seems to be coming from under the intake manifold. Looking for step by step instructions on removing it to get to the problem?
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I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
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I borrowed a friends 2000 Excursion with the Triton V10, along with his 3300lb, 28' trailer to tow a car from Ashland, OR to Reno, NV to begin a restoration project. His Excursion has 175,000 miles on it and made the trip down flawlessly, but as they say, "No good deed goes unpunished." When attempting to return last Sunday, had to turn around due to overheating problems. Analysis at a local automotive shop concluded a bad radiator cap. Attempted the return trip Tuesday and the same thing happened (only got farther due to the new cap and ability to hold pressure longer).
Finally got into a Ford dealer and have been informed that the truck has a bad head gasket causing pressure to leak into the cooling system. They suggest replacement of with a remanufactureded engine as opposed to replacing head gaskets, due to the time on the entire engine (who knows what else might be bad?). The vehicle can be driven around town for miles with no problems. But put that heavy load on it and grades and it spews out nearly "all" of the coolant.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon and recently had transmission work done on the car. When I got the car back the radiator cap was left loose, I didn't know this until I took the car for a drive and it overheated. I let the car cool down, replaced the coolant, and made sure the cap was sealed down. The car now has a slow coolant leak, when I turn the car off I can see it drip underneath for about 2 minutes and then it stops. Also, after the car heats up to running temperature I get a burning rubber smell coming through the vents. What could this be? The car only has 70,000 miles on it and I would like to keep it going if I can.
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Turns out I've lost nearly all of the coolant from my secondary cooling system and am trying to diagnose the problem.
Things I noticed:
-All of the hoses appear to be in good condition.
-Coolant is dripping from the center of the engine bay.
-After inspecting the turbo area, it appears the valley below the turbo is wet.
The intake manifold is still on the truck, so I haven't been able to get a better look. Is there anything else near the area I am describing that has coolant? My guess is the turbo water inlet?
Perhaps this : Coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel - YouTube...
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I have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
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I was driving the wifes 12 Tiguan SEL 4mo the other day and noticed that on accel it makes some odd noise, almost a tinny boost leak noise, it seems to accel just fine but at certain rpm's it makes this weird noise, its not a normal turbo boost noise i hear that as well. Maybe this noise is completely normal or maybe it isn't?
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport: Sometimes the directionals shut off after a few blinks and sometimes they don't work at all. I think I identified the area where the blinker noise comes from. It is to the left underneath the steering wheel column.
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