Jeep - Cherokee :: Air Conditioner Does Not Always Blow Cold
Jun 16, 2016
I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee and the air conditioner is giving me some problems. The issue is that at random times, it stops cooling, and just blows hot air. Sometimes I can drive all day, and it's fine. Other times, it only blows cold for a few minutes, before the air gets warm.
I've started checking under the hood when this happens, and the compressor is not engaged. I noticed a couple of times that the hoses were frosted over (not every time when the compressor was out). I have found that when the air starts blowing cold, I can turn on the heater for a few minutes, and then when I turn the A/C back on, it will blow cold air again. However, often times the cold air will only last around 10 minutes before it blows warm again. Plus, there are a couple of instances where the heater trick didn't really work.
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I have an issue with my a/c. The left side blows out air but it is not cold. The right side is cold. The whole front dash has 4 vents total so the left two does not blow out cold air at all.
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I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
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So i just bought my lexus es350 2007 and I just realized that my driver's side doesn't blow cold air unlike the passenger's side i tried to google it and then i believe as i read on here its the blender door.
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In the really cold weather after I start my Jeep and it goes in Drive and it's driven for several miles when I go to put it back into Park the shifter gets hung up. It will go into all of the other gears except for Park. If I wait a while it goes back in but it can still feel like it's not smooth.
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For three years now my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo will whistle. Usually when the engine is cold. When the vehicle is idling in the driveway or at stoplights, whenever I take my foot off the accelerator it will whistle too. The only time it won't whistle is when the gas pedal is being pressed. I've had it to a number of different shops to be serviced but once the car is inside or the engine is warmed it will never whistle for the mechanic looking at the vehicle. I've been told that it could be related to the IAC motor.
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My 99 grand cherokee's heater is broken - fan blows but only cold air. I've had two mechanics tell me its probably the blend doors and will be quite expensive to repair because it requires removal of dashboard. Looking for after market repair kit which allows for a DIY fix going through the glove box? Is this a good bet to try?
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My 1996 Jeep Cherokee A/C system pushes cold air but out of the defroster vents not the A/C vents. Why this is happening? I suspect it is the slide switches for the A/C system but I am not sure and do not want to take the dash apart before I have some confirmation. I have checked the vacuum hoses with the heater/A/C system and they seem fine.
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When I turn on the air conditioning, the driver's side works well, but the passenger's side vents blow warm air. What could this mean and could I fix it from home?
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I have a 98 Grand Cherokee (V-8) with 127K on it, that sometimes during cold starts acts like an old carburetor system with the choke sticking. It floods, chokes, it sputters, and you have to maintain an RPM of about 2000 to keep it running and get it to snap out of it. A local shop did a tune up on it before this problem started to happen intermittently, aside from this, it seems to run well. I took it back to the shop and they did several diagnostic tests and even got it to do it for them while they had it.
I told them that it seemed like if we released the key from the start position as soon as it began to fire, the problem would happen, if we held it I the start for a bit longer we could usually avoid it. They returned it to me saying that "Yup, if you hold the start position longer it won't happen, and by the way here is a bill for $103." With the recent below zero temps, it's getting worse, almost unavoidable. My wife says it uses a lot of fuel when this is happening but we have not actually tracked the mileage. Other than this it's a great car but I'm ready to drive it off a high mountain cliff.
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My Jeep makes a whistling noise in cool/cold weather (~60 degrees and below) that no mechanic has been able to diagnose let alone fix the problem. Here are the details...
-high pitched whistling (can be heard inside and outside the car - very loud) only when temps are about 60 degrees and below-after 5 minutes of the car running-only when RPMs are about 2.0 or below.
However, RPMs can be higher when it is colder out and it will still make the noise-as you push on the accelerator, the noise gradually decreases until RPMs are high enough to completely stop the noise.
When temps are around 50-60 degrees, sometimes the whistling will stop after the car has been at a complete stop for about 1-2 minutes-If you turn off the car and let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then turn it back on, usually the whistling will be gone. It will need to sit in the off position for longer the colder the temps are. This problem has been ongoing for about 4 years.
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I have an 8 year old 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan. This past weekend I tried running the air conditioner when the temperature was in the low 80's (F) outside. Unfortunately, the AC only blew hot air, even though I drove a pretty long distance with the AC on.
I think the refrigerant has leaked out and is depleted. Whether or not I should attempt to recharge the AC by myself with my neighbor's assistance (he has all of the gear for recharging the refrigerant) or if this is a job that is better left to a professional.
Also, if I do attempt the job by myself, would it be better to try and seal the leaks with a dedicated sealant first, or should I use the canned refrigerant that also contains some kind of sealant?
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I am in need of the diagnosis of an air conditioner & radiator fan problem on a 2002 Cavalier LS Sport.
The air conditioner blows cold air while the car is moving most of the time. At idle, the air conditioner will suddenly blow warm or even hot air.
At idle with the air conditioner off, the car idles fine. When you turn the a/c on, it runs a bit sluggish. Also, ever 5 seconds you hear what I assume to be the compressor cycle on/off.
After a little research I discovered that this problem could be a faulty radiator fan motor.
Tonight, I pulled the electrical plug to the fan and found that I had voltage to the plug when the engine was running with the air on or off. I then ran wires direct from the battery to the fan and could not get the fan to spin. This obviously tells me that the fan motor must be bad.
My real question is.....should I really have voltage to the fan when the a/c is off and the car is just started? I thought the fan should only turn on when the engine got warm with the a/c off. I started the car and pulled it in to the garage and then shut it off before I did my testing so I don't think that would classify as getting the engine warm.
I am now wondering if the voltage was always present even with the AC button off because I may have had the fan in the recirculate mode. The AC light is lit in this mode even when the AC button is off.
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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A little over a month ago my battery died and I ended up having to get the battery installed one day and the alternator installed the very next day. After the alternator was installed, I started my car up and when I eventually turned the Air conditioner on, it started making a screeching/squealing type noise. I was first told it was the belt needed some lubrication but that didn't work.
I was later told the ac compressor was bad so I had it replaced. The mechanic thought he ordered a bad compressor so he ordered a new one and installed it....it was quiet for about 2 days but then it started squealing again. the sound was not as bad as before through but it was slowly getting worst. I took it back and he then told me the alternator was causing the problem on the ac compressor so I again I had the alternator replaced....no change. He also replaced the belt and no change. at this point we don't know what's causing it?
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport: Sometimes the directionals shut off after a few blinks and sometimes they don't work at all. I think I identified the area where the blinker noise comes from. It is to the left underneath the steering wheel column.
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I have had no problems out of my jeep except my check engine light came on and it was a bad 02 Sensor and I was told I didn't need to replace it. Well I was driving down the highway and all of a sudden my jeep died. The radio cut off my air and I put it in neutral and I tried to start it and it would not crank. I coasted in a drive way and it cranked and them died. Now it acts like it wants to start but it wont. Replaced the fuel filter. I am getting fuel to the fuel rail. It will not start with starter fluid. I took the crank sensor off and it replaced it and it still wouldn't crank. My fuel pump makes a whinning sound. My lights come on..My windshield wipers won't. My radio doesn't work and the inside lights well I couldn't get them to go off before I before my vehicle died on me, about 3 weeks before I just took the bulbs out. Would the 02 sensor make it not start?
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I am so darned sick of that lousy BUZZER in my Jeep Comanche ! Where is it and how can I TURN IT OFF ?
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I live on a boat access only island, so desperate. This jeep has over 230,000 km on it. Runs well, but this year started this thing where it won't start first time crank, but always starts second or third go. Bought new battery last year, so doesn't seem to be that kind of issue.
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What would cause a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter inline 6 to backfire every now and then.
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Just bought a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 Auto trans. The other morning my jeep wouldn't start. Power everything works, lights work, back up lights work. Starter had been sluggish so I had it tested. Tested fine. Hook the starter back up and when I attach battery it turns over and runs constantly.
I removed the ignition wire from the starter solenoid and hooked it back up and the same thing happened. So I deduced the starter solenoid was stuck. Bought a new starter and replaced my old. Old starter was tested at autozone and it worked properly there (didn't run without ignition).
I just bought the new starter anyway. Hook up battery and same thing happens--starter turns over. How would just the cable from the battery be able to turn the starter over if it is all good?
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