Jeep - Cherokee :: 2004 - Transmission Started To Make A Clicking Sound
May 10, 2012
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
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My '95 Grand Cherokee (104K miles) just started groaning when I make full turns. After first 1 or two turns, right or left, can hear the steering column groan and feel some resistance. Have I lost power steering fluid? or worse?
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The passenger side of my jeep accumulates water when it rains. (leaking Sunroof) I remove the water as soon as possible, however Lately it has developed problems starting. There is a clicking sound that is coming from under the glove compartment or maybe the fuse box in the same area. Is it possible that the fuse box could be causing the shortage and my next question is can this problem detected/ corrected, by rewiring entire box or damaged wires? I love my Black Beauty, very little problems and only 112, 000 miles.
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My wife and I just bought a pre-owned 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 60,000 miles that just started to make a whistle sound on initial acceleration and deceleration when the engine is warm and the transmission is in gear and moving. The sound does not happen with a cold engine, when the transmission is in park, or neutral. A local mechanic checked it for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. He thought it may be a dirty throttle body, so I cleaned that out really well, but the whistle didn't go away (it did make the jeep run a lot smoother!). It's difficult to pinpoint the noise since it only happens when the vehicle is actually moving.
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My husbands jeep is driving him crazy. He drove it to work and started fine. Then went to start to come home. Nothing. No crank, no click, nothing. Towed home. Battery OK. Anyway, he put new starter on. Started up. I drove it to station. Got in to come home. Nothing. Same darn thing. We jumped it. Pushed it out of way. Started. It's done this many times. Let me say, though, he went through a huge amount of water before this happened. Gauges went nuts for a while. Don't know if this could've messed up a sensor. He's losing sleep over this.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS... Few months back I refueled my tank with degraded fuel (of course i did not know about it and some refueling stations in our country mix oils) and the problems started to arise with my car.. initially it all started with jerks and cracking sounds from the engine.. I then took it to the dealership and cleaned everything except the injectors but the jerking and cracking problem was solved.. but it still had a pickup problem.. whenever i tried to accelerate from 40km/h to above, the transmission seems to give a jolt make a clicking sound when downshifting.. and the acceleration compared to before has degraded.. I took it to the dealership again and their answer was drive it for 300 km more everything will b fine.. but i have driven the car for 1000 km more but the problem is not solving.. I don't know.. my warranty period is over.. in our country they only provide for 12000 km or 1 yr warranty.. now i have checked online and it seems Elantra transmission has bugged a lot of ppl..
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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It started stalling out off and on. Thought maybe bad tank of gas and waited it out. Since then i have had the catalytic converter replaced. Ignition coil replaced complete tune up with new wires distributor and rotor button. Still stalled so they said fuel pump now that's been replaced and on my way home it stalled again.
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I have a 2005 STX with the 4.6L, 4WD, AT.
The engine has started to make a loud whining sound recently. I replaced the belt and tensioner since it was original and had 93,000 miles on it. The sound is still there.
The sound increases with rpm but doesn't change when you turn the steering wheel.
The engine starts and runs smoothly with plenty of power.
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Transmission not shifting into overdrive, running high on RPM's, BUT not all the time. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Could it be an electrical Module that is causing the transmission not to shift into high gear? Had the transmission checked out several times without going inside it and they say it is fine???
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My jeep just got it back and the transmission ain't slipping in drive but it's not shifting. I can drive it in drive but does not shift? Also I had the piston rings all done and head got it back like that and i am mad because wen i took it to him to have it fixed the transmission was working fine. Then i took it back to him and he said he did not touch the transmission.
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Between about 20-30mph, on light throttle the engine/transmission of my 2006 RX400h makes a low groaning sound, sending a vibration through to the cabin. The engine just seems to be very rough at this speeds, like the engine is labouring. After exactly 30mph, everything is very smooth. It is also very smooth when running in EV mode at any speed.
The harshness/vibration only comes on when accelerating, so have ruled out tyres etc. The mileage is 85,000, and it has had a recent major service at a Lexus dealer. I use premium fuel.
The Lexus dealer had a look at the car for 1 hour and inspected the exhaust, engine mountings etc. but could find no faults. I went on a test drive with the service technician and he did notice the vibration.
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Dashboard lights out, on 1999 jeep cherokee. seem string because transmission gear level lights is also out. on the floor.
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I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. It has 108.5K miles on it. This past winter I had to have the battery replaced and the throttle serviced, invloving a tow in the depths of the polar vortex. Now in the rear right wheel I hear a clanking sound when I go over a pot hole or bump. Pot holes are hard to avoid after the winter we had.
Speed bumps are no problem. I know it is only the right rear tire because I have tested the other wheels going over pot holes, they do not make any noise. The noise happens if I am at speed or rolling over bump at a light or in a parking lot. It is due for an inspection at the end of this month and I would like to make a suggestion to the mechanic when I take it in.
My questions are: What is making the noise? Is it worth it to keep the car after I fix it or should I start looking for another? If I do look for another car what should I consider? I have two sons and we are outdoors people and would need something similar in ruggedness. Also the AC has not worked for over a year.
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I have a 1995 jeep Cherokee country that has 130k miles. I have notice that when I shift from park to drive, park to reverse, drive to reverse or vice versa It makes this thud noise after placing it in gear. Is this a sign that the transmission is about to go out ? What action should I take? By the way its a automatic transmission
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I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. It drives great but there is a problem with the blinkers. They only work about 15% of the time. Most of the time when I try to use my signal, nothing happens. They don't light up, they don't make the blinker sound, and they aren't flashing. Now, the hazard lights always work and I can sometimes get the blinkers to come back on by adjusting the steering wheel column. Weird right?
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I have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
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My Jeep GC ZJ 1993 with 202202 miles V8 engine and automatic transmission cuts off/engine shuts down. I have found that when I put it into 2nd or 1st gear it never shuts off. For example, I am driving with AT in D (Drive) and come to a stop, the engine shuts down. However, if I move the selector to 2nd before coming to a stop it never shuts down. BTW it also shudders and headlights dim and battery voltage drops before it shuts down.
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Due to the clicking-ratcheting sound my 1997 Civic makes when I make hard turns or U turns, two mechanics (one drove the car) say that I need two new front axles at a cost of $400 ($200 each). I have driven the car like this for maybe a couple thousand miles before I looking into it. How much longer can I drive it like this before it gets dangerous or fails? I now only make gentle turns and so minimize the clicking-ratcheting sounds that happen only on hard or aggressive turns. The car only has 76,000 miles on it. Is it dangerous to keep driving it?
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Our Jeep Cerokee windshield wipers do not close down. They run but do not go to the close position. Is their a simple solution, or do we have to replace the wiper motor?
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2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD, 6 cylinder car is in Tallahassee, florida and when the temperature is warm outside in the spring and summer and the car has been driven for awhile and is stopped (like for shopping) and you try to start it again, it will not start. However if you wait for awhile like 20-45 minutes the car will start but will rough idle for a little while and then it will smooth out and go ok. This appears to be random and does not happen in the fall and winter months.
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