Jeep - Cherokee :: 2001 - Very Bumpy Initial Idle / Car Shake Back And Forth
Jan 17, 2014
I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport edition, automatic transmission, about 100k miles. Recently, when I turn on the engine -- sometimes -- it is very loud, and the car really shakes back and forth (in place) with the engine. It almost feels like the car is going to die. It feels like a very bad idle. If I wait, nothing changes. If I turn the car off, wait, and turn it back on, nothing changes. If I hit the gas, it continues, but decreases very quickly and by the time I hit a stop sign or red light (let's say 100 yards away), the car is more or less fine; no more fear that it's going to die, although there's still some noise that seems like it's coming from somewhere between the transmission and engine. I had the starter replaced last June (when it went kaput) and replaced the idle control valve a couple of months ago (the car kept dying when I came to a complete stop). I mainly drive it to/from work, about 50 miles each way, going 45-80 mph on a hilly freeway, and there have been no problems while driving.
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I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4Door, 4WD, 5-Speed Manual Trans, 4.0L Inline 6 cyl. mileage: 220,000+At highway speed if I hit a bump the car will start to shake like to fall apart. The only thing that stops the shaking is to ease of on the gas and it slowly subsides. What is causing this? Suspension? Transmission? Steering? Incidentally, the steering is not specifically affected, other than the fact that the whole car is shaking like a jack-hammer.
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I have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it.
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I have a 99 jeep grand jerokee... every once in a while it will just stall....it starts back up right away...no problem....battery is good... could it be the fuel filter? or the cranckshaft positioning sensor? or am i way off?
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My jeep seems to be making a ticking noise in the back windshield. I notice it when I've been driving it for a while or on hot days. Once it starts I'll continue to hear it even though the car is turned off. Is it the glass? The seal around the windshield? How is something like this fixed.
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1990 Cherokee 4 L str 6 cyl
after shutting my jeep down I ve heard liquid moving. I decided to find the source. it turns out that I was hearing the oil draining back into the pan.
I was under the jeep with my ear next to the pan, no doubt of source.
this lasted about 15- 30 seconds before stopping. the front of the jeep was raised about 6", as I had parked it that way.is this concerning?
I was recently going to change my valve/rocker arm cover gasket, but decided to wait because it did not seem to be leaking and I did not want to use the inexpensive cork fel pro gasket that I had bought, I decided to wait until I could afford the more expensive gasket.
I did notice thru my oil fill cap that there is a lot of crud under the cover and I am concerned that my oil return drains are partially clogged.how can I clean these drains when I do change the gasket? since it has been strongly recommended here that I do not disturb the crud I m not sure how I should approach this. could vaccuming the loose crud with a shop vac be okay?
ps. dropping the oil pan is not an option right now because of the extensive labor involved on this model and the expense of all the new seals and gaskets required. I ve bought 200 bucks worth of parts and fluids this month and it will be awhile before I can afford more.
right now I have brake shoes, tranny filter and fluid, above gasket, oil and oil and fuel filters waiting on me to work on, and other non mechanical things.
to summarize my questions...
1) does noisy oil drainage concern you?2)how can I clean oil drains?
a. can I pour kerosene thru to clean oil drains, and to flush oil pan, which I can t drop right now?
b. can I shop vac under the valve cover?
c. should I add sea foam to oil for a bit before changing?
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I have recently cleaned my throttle body and still have a rough idle. The rough idle is intermittent and especially occurs when I am in park and then hold on the brake and switch to reverse or forward without pressing the accelerator down and let it sit for a second. When it happens, it is usually so rough it wants to just stall out if I don't give it some gas.
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2015 Jeep Cherokee 2.4 engine. Engine is very noisy at idle. Not noticeable when driving. It has variable valve timing or valve lift. I also has a big black hat on the engine, I wonder if that is supposed to quiet the engine some, if so it isn't working.
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For three years now my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo will whistle. Usually when the engine is cold. When the vehicle is idling in the driveway or at stoplights, whenever I take my foot off the accelerator it will whistle too. The only time it won't whistle is when the gas pedal is being pressed. I've had it to a number of different shops to be serviced but once the car is inside or the engine is warmed it will never whistle for the mechanic looking at the vehicle. I've been told that it could be related to the IAC motor.
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1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L
Problem "Stalls at idle and at hwy speed" sometimes starts right up and sometime will not start. Sometimes it will lose acceleration but engine will still be running and you can punch the gas and it will go again.
It has been in the shop for most of the last 2 months. Driven in 3 times and hauled in twice.
Low mileage 70,000 - has been great until now - serviced regularly.
Did get new fuel pump only about 10,000 miles ago do to starting problem but in that case it just did not start.
Independent shop replaced distributor cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter. No codes and couldn't duplicate problem.
Jeep dealer replaced fuel pump (they said wiring problem), O2 sensor, engine module no help, they asked us to pick up car because it ran fine. It stalled within 2 miles of shop.
We replaced gas cap just in case.
Limped back to shop to replace crank sensor as it was suggested several places. Ran fine for about 45 minutes then back to old tricks. Relays have been checked. Still at shop trying to trace problem. At least nobody is saying they can't duplicate problem as it now stalls all the time.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
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There was one message that I found like my problem, but a little different. When I turn the key it won't start, just sounds like it is going to start. I turn the key the second time it will usually start. sometimes it takes 3 times.
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I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee with 104,000+ miles. It runs great and doesn't have any issues. However, i started it up this morning and the check engine light came on. Should this be concerning? I haven't done any real maintenance on it since it runs so well. And i guess that's my other question - what should i do to the Jeep to keep it running for another 100,000+ miles? Spark plugs? Timing belt??
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After I start up and drive my jeep around town and then shut the engin off. Then I get back inside the jeep, start it up the engin idels rough. Some times the engin light comes on. I had a coil pack installed and still the same symptoms. What do you think?
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I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a hard steering problem. I've changed the power steering pump, high pressure hose and gearbox.... the fan spins slow and it still steers hard ... could this be a hydrolic fan problem ???
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Pretty soon this thing's gonna have ALL new parts and STILL running rough! The Jeep has about 40K on a Jasper motor, 175K on everything else. I was experiencing starting issues (crank for 20-30 seconds), and noticed a P0171 code on my odometer (O2 sensor?) so off to my mechanic. He replaced two O2 sensors, no change. New code read MAP sensor, replaced, no change.
Finally, changed Fuel Pump in tank (Fuel filter was changed 2 months ago), still no change. I tried starting it tonight by turning the key 5-10 sec. to prime gas, started but still rough at idle. Runs strong above idle 1500-2000RPM. Mechanic can't check fuel pressure at rails? for some reason. My next thoughts were spark plugs and vacuum lines...
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2001 Jeep Cherokee sport ... Just bought this Jeep with 145K miles. Had radiator and all hoses replaced. The overflow tank is boiling over but the engine is not overheating. Safe to drive? What should I be checking for?
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I have had a Jeep Grand Cherokee for about 4 years. Over the last year or so, I have been having coolant loss. At first, it was very little over the course of a month. Now it is about a half a gallon over a few days. We can't find any leaks. The oil does not appear milky. There is a bit of moisture under the valve cover. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe. Within the last 2 months or so I have changed my timing belt, spark plugs, and all belts that needed to be changed. I notice that when I am idle at a traffic light, the car is a little rough or bumpy. Is this normal for its age, or should I be looking at something specific.
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I drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
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