Jeep - Cherokee :: 1997 - Leaking Sunroof / Clicking Sound Coming From Under Glove Compartment Or Fuse Box In Same Area
Feb 3, 2014
The passenger side of my jeep accumulates water when it rains. (leaking Sunroof) I remove the water as soon as possible, however Lately it has developed problems starting. There is a clicking sound that is coming from under the glove compartment or maybe the fuse box in the same area. Is it possible that the fuse box could be causing the shortage and my next question is can this problem detected/ corrected, by rewiring entire box or damaged wires? I love my Black Beauty, very little problems and only 112, 000 miles.
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For the last two days I've had a very intermittent (tck, tck, tck) sound coming from what sounds like the glove compartment area. It has a rep rate of around three times a second and is very regular. It sounds like a relay to me. It has only lasted less than 20 seconds on each occurrence so don't have time to troubleshoot. I took that area apart and I see two 12volt 25 amp what look like relays just to the right of the glove compartment. I've left that area torn apart so if it happens again I can feel the relays and get it down to one-and or eliminate them as the cause of the noise.
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My trusted Volvo mechanic can't figure this out. Shortly after starting my car, there is a clacking noise that seems to be coming from an area near the glove compartment. It lasts for several minutes and then stops. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the car. I've had it serviced, but can't figure out what causes this noise.
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I hear clicking noise on my 2006 vw passat 2.0 T. The noise comes from the passenger side, sounds like it coming from under the glove department, but i cannot be exactly sure. It does clicking when i start the engine and after a minute it clicks .. ( about 5-6 clicks. not very loud but you can hear them. )
Also the clicking noise appears when I drive ... but it's hard to hear, and when i slow down or when i"m at the complete stop. It does not appears all the time, but randomly happens.
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I have a 2011 RX350 and recently noticed rattling sound coming from inside the glove compartment.
I think it comes from the plastic cover of the aircon filter at the back of the glove compartment. This cover seems bit loose even when installed back properly and the vibration (especially when driving over uneven roads) is causing the rattling sound.
I know it's a minor problem but the rattling sound can get irritating at times. My temporary fix is to push back the heavy owner's manual on that cover to prevent vibration.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 105,000 miles. The transmission (or transfer case) recently started to make a clicking sound. It usually happens in 2 wheel drive mode and gets louder as the car warms up. the clicking sound occurs in all gears except park. It also gets faster with car speed. If the car is put into 4 wheel (full time) mode the sound seems to go away or is not as audible. When you shift back in 2 wheel drive mode the clicking sound comes back.
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The last few days I have been getting this strange sound from the Glove Box / Air-Bag area on the passenger side. It only takes place when the car is running. It happens about every 10 minutes or so. Chattering is the only way to explain it. It is not overly loud but everyone in the car can hear it. Kind of paranoid that it is something up with the air-bag.
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1997 Acura Cl 2.2 ... Ticking noise coming from the dash board and glove box area ( sounds like blinker ticking noise).
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My G6 is in great condition, except that starting a few or two ago a relatively loud clicking noise (one or two clicks per second) from behind the glove compartment started up once I turn on the engine. The weird thing I've noticed is when and how often it happens. 25% of the time it doesn't click at all when you start it. No matter what, if you drive at least 30 minutes it'll stop. And finally, the clicking only happens when the defroster is on; if you turn on normal heat and press the air recirculator, it stops immediately.
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I've had a used 2007 V6 Camry for about six months now.
I recently started noticing a quiet set of rapid clicks/clacks sound coming from engine compartment/firewall area more or less on driver side. I'm not sure if it was there all along or if I just began noticing it.
It occurs after starting the car, putting it in drive and as soon as I let off the brakes and begin rolling. It might only happen going forward. I will have to notice if it does it in reverse.
It happens rapidly and stops and I don't hear it again until I repeat the steps above after the car has sat a while. I don't believe it will do it again, if say, after doing it once I stop, put it into park and then back into drive and go.
I don't believe it's the CV joints. It does it once and stops and is not related to movement of the steering wheel. It almost reminds me of a relay switching something.
I'll also add that I had a 1995 Prizm and 2000 Corolla that did the same thing. Both were manual transmissions. The click they made was much louder though their cabins were not sealed as well as the Camry. The clicks would happen only after the car had sat a while as soon as the car first started rolling and then would stop. Could it be the same thing in all three cars?
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There is an unbearable clicking sound coming from underneath the glovebox. Already tried removing blower motor to see if there were mouse droppings, paper bits anything -- it was clean. What this could be?
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I've had the GX for a few months now and love it. Over the past couple of weeks I've started to notice a rattle coming from the glove compartment. Its not something inside as i can get it to stop if I apply a little pressure. How to fix other than some weather stripping? I have it in for the 70k maintenance next week and may try to see if they will fix it under CPO warranty.
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I start hearing rattle on my 2010 UL ES350. I think it's coming from either glove compartment or the wood on right passenger front door. It's really annoying.
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My father has a 1995 Jeep grand Cherokee that drains the battery every few days. I draw tested the battery and it is fine. The alternator is charging fine. During a check of the circuits for battery drain, I found that the MUX/T Tow 50 amp fuse is draining the battery at a rate of about 1.5 amps or more. The manual I have does not list the fuse so the following questions come to mind.
1. What circuits are on this fuse?
2. Can the truck be safely operated without this circuit?
3. What further can you do to detect the trouble?
Some answers I came up with after a little more checking.
1. The gage cluster does not work when the fuse is removed, it must be on this fuse. None of the cluster system lights come on when this fuse is out. The cluster illumination lights work ok.
2. All external lights work without the fuse in except stop lights.
3. All other functions are working without the fuse in.
4. No the truck cannot be safely operated. See answer #1and 2 above
5. Found online that a check of any trouble codes might determine touble.
6. No codes were found. But i ddid have the battery cables off before this was checked. He is going to drive it home and back on Sat so I can recheck the codes.
7. Many replys to other posts here on this site refer to the MUX as a "multiplexer"
More questions
1. What the heck is a multiplexer?
2. What relay controls the cluster? Or is this done directly by the ECM.
I do have a good background in electrical and electronic circuits of many types, mostly radio and computer, but also including automotive. So feel free to beat me up if I am overlooking the obvious. I just feell like I am beating my head against the wall here. AND this is what it feels like (thought that was real cute)
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Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Sport with a six-speed manual trans and an in-line 4.0 6-cyl engine. I discovered a month or so ago a strange rattling sound coming from, what sounded like, the front passenger wheel area. It would occur when I slowed down to 10mph or slower or when coming to a complete stop, or when starting out from a stop, until surpassing the 10-12mph mark. The rattle is audible both inside and outside the vehicle. It's a low-pitched sound like an "aaaaaahhhh" you make when opening wide for the doctor to look down your throat, only with a metallic rattle thrown in. Best way I know to describe it is a voice saying "aaaaahhhhh" through the back of a fan.
I recently discovered, when I took it in for an oil change and tire rotation, that my front tires were wearing much faster than the backs and had a very noticeable "choppiness" to the tread. I have since installed new shock absorbers on both sides of the front suspension in hopes that would even the ride out for the front and eliminate the choppy tire wear. I originally thought that the tire wear and the rattle were related, but I took it to a mechanic who raised the front end and hand-spun both front tires and they made no audible sounds while spinning.
The mechanic said he believes that the rattle is coming from the front differential. Now, I am no pro mechanic, but I am not afraid to tackle a car repair job as long as I know I have the tools I need at hand to properly complete the job. First of all, does the differential sound like a good place to look? There's no change in the rattle when applying or releasing the clutch and it shifts smoothly, so I am pretty certain it's not in the transmission. Is the differential something that I could remove the cover and adequately diagnose a problem on my own? Just don't have funds available for a large car repair bill, so I am looking at trying to tackle the issue myself.
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I've noticed this sound coming from the instrument panel area for a while now. It comes and goes, sometimes starts in the middle of driving, sometimes starts right when I start the car. It almost sounds like I have the turn signal on, but that's not it. There isn't much to see - the video is mainly so you can hear the sound.
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Our 2012 elantra gls with 112k miles on it decided to freak out yesterday.
Car wont turn over at all. there is also a clicking sound coming from the interior fuse block. I popped the hood and smelled sulfur. I put the volt meter to the battery and it shows 12.8 ish. I checked all the fuses and didn't find any blown. I also pulled the starter relay and tested it and it checked out.
Trying to turn the car over some times the dash light will flicker and the wipers will turn on by themselves. I also had a clicking sound coming from the fuse block under the hood. Interior lights come on but are dim and the parking light flicker a bit and fade. I downloaded the manual but am not sure what to look for at this point.
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Vehicle has been in the shop several times within one month( Battery test, replace accelerate idle switch, rear end replace) latest dilemma is with a constant clicking sound coming from under/ near dashboard on passenger side . No interior lights. All this occurs before I turn over the ignition. On some occasions if I enter the vehicle and don't hear the constant clicking sound. Whola, the vehicle starts every time. I disconnect the battery cable when coming in over night. 1997 112,000 miles.
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I have a 1999 f-150 and am having a problem that I cannot pin down . After starting the truck and running it for 10 min or so I shut it off and it will not restart again for approx. 3-4 hrs . When you turn the key there is a clicking noise coming from behind the fuse panel . Also the truck will not start if temp outside rises above 80 degrees . Is there a replaceable relay under there or is it the computer module ? Battery is new .
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Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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