I am the second owner of a 97 Cherokee 4.0 2wd. My overdrive works now and then. my check engine light is on. I had it scanned it throws 2 codes. p0700 and p0705. It has 147k and we already replaced the entire cooling system including flushing the engine and system thoroughly . Now it has been sitting for nearly 2yrs. just not sure what direction to go.
View 3 RepliesI have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
View 24 RepliesI have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
Yesterday afternoon the "Service Engine Soon" light turned on in our '97 Town & Country (3.8L engine). A few minutes later (while I headed to Autozone to get the code read) the light went out. They were still able to retrieve 2 codes: P0700 and P1775. Internet searches suggest a possible bad solenoid pack for the transmission.
More background: The van has 161,000 miles, and the original owners got the transmission replaced at 40,000 miles under warranty (4 speed automatic). The transmission fluid was replaced (pan drop method) at about 153,000 miles and at 112,000 miles, etc., with Chrysler ATF +4 fluid. The van got new plugs and wires about 15,000 miles ago. (It also got a new radiator and hoses yesterday morning which I think is unrelated.) Another possible clue: On long trips sometimes the 2nd transmission shift will become slightly rough but it still shifts and after it has rested everything returns to normal. This occasional shifting issue has been going on for over 5 years and again when it manifests itself it is very slight.
I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee with 104,000+ miles. It runs great and doesn't have any issues. However, i started it up this morning and the check engine light came on. Should this be concerning? I haven't done any real maintenance on it since it runs so well. And i guess that's my other question - what should i do to the Jeep to keep it running for another 100,000+ miles? Spark plugs? Timing belt??
View 2 RepliesMy Jeep check engine light comes on man said it was a EVAC problem...is this a multiple sensor issue? yes I checked the gas cap
View 2 Replies1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0. Check engine light will not go out. Took to Autozone , Orileys ,and Jeep Dealer. No codes found. Replaced cooling fan relay, when light first came on. Everything works fine now. Have tried myself to shut light off, disconnect batt. cables 10 min, 30 min. and other methods, no luck , still, on ? I have even traced the cooling fan relay wire to PCM, all OK.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000, Jeep Cherokee 4.0L. The check engine light, keeps coming on, and the scan tool, shows P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Misfires in #1, 2 & 3 cylinder.
I replaced the Coil Pack & all spark plugs with genuine jeep parts from the dealer. What might be wrong or other things to check?
I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2000 Cherokee Sport and the Check Gauges Light has come on, it usually happens after during my commute and I have been on the freeway for about 10 minutes, I exit and at the first stoplight it comes on. Doesn't come on in normal around town driving, just in that situation each day. I took it in to my mechanic and twice and it still comes on, they said they replaced the oil pump. Anyway, could it be that the gauge light has to be reset? I don't see any leak after two days on the street now. I am at my wits end, before I take it to different mechanic, I'd like to see what the boards say.
View 3 RepliesOk, so this past week i towed my 72 f250 to IL from CA. 2100 Miles. 6100#s with the trailer. No problems at all. Got about 9 MPG too the whole way. Ok, so here is my problem now. As some of you may know, IL just got about a foot of snow. Its all slush at this point. I am living in the country right now so i drive thru alot of it. Ok, now you know the back story, today i drove the truck to my brothers house, put it in park and bam! check engine light came on. About a half hour later i drove it to AutoZone and had them check the codes. Here is what they pulled.
P0705
P0171
Need to know what to replace. I have to drive it back to CA in 4 days.
So I have been having some troubles with my 2003 F150 4.6L ... Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors??? I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
Ive got a question for all you code readers out there. My dreaded check engine light has been on for about a month. I bought a code reader recently and checked it out. Two codes come up; PO401 and PO446. What these mean. My book says "Exhaust Gas Recirc. Flow Insufficient Detected" and " Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction". Which sensors, location on vehicle, etc..... this is a 97 5.4L Expedition.
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 f150 with the 4.2l v6 with a 5 speed 173000 miles. I picked it up not to long ago. When I first got it it had both the P0171 & P0174 lean on bank 1&2 it was also siting for a while. I replaced the fuel filter which was filled with black fuel, also changed the PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, and changed the oil. I cleared the code, drove it for a little bit and the light came back on after 20 miles.
I then proceeded to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. Upon doing that i noticed that i was missing one of the linkages for the IMRC. I went to the junkyard and pulled off another linkage rod off the same motor. ordered new plastic clips, put the IMRC on cleaned everything up and began putting it back together. I also cleaned the Injectors while i had them out as well and put in new spark plugs and wires.
Put everything back together. code was cleared since the battery was disconnected. drove it and then the engine light came back on again. this time it was only the p0174. so i then both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors on bank 2, reset the code and it came back on again. I'm lost.
For those of you who have not purchased a new car for a while and are considering doing so in the near future I want to share the recent service experience I had for my 2015 Jeep Cherokee. I don't know if my experience was typical but I suspect it is.
I took my Jeep to the dealer for a routine service (LOF and tire rotation). The total time at the dealer was about 4 hours. Of that time, about 2 1/2 or 3 hours was spent in updating the software for the various computers. It had never occurred to me that computers were that pervasive in new cars.
Attendant to that, my Jeep has the 3.2L V6 engine, which comes with start/stop technology (when you stop at a stop light the engine shuts off and restarts when you take your foot off the brake). After the service was completed I noticed the start/stop function had stopped working. I contacted the dealer. The customer service representative spoke with the service technician, who contacted Chrysler. It seems that all of the software updates (there were a total of 6 of them) may take 3-7 days to become fully integrated into the system. I was told to wait a few days to see if the problem rectified. Sure enough, when I drove it today it had.
Elantra GT 2003 ... I had engine check light on and OBD 2 code reader showed DTC P1529 and P0705. I erased the codes to see if they comes back and one month later I have same codes back. P0705 indicates Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, so probably I should check range sensor. How the range sensor looks alike and where to find it. Where can I find it?
View 1 Replies2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
I have a 1997 Jeep Cherokee that has decided to not let me open its hatch anymore. I live in Alaska, the land of rough and bumpy roads, so why am I surprised this has happened? I know the objective is to make the connection with the latch happen again, but what I am really hesitant about is getting to the latch itself. Do I really have to rip off the panel and risk it never going back where it came from? How do you still make it look pretty?
View 3 RepliesI recently had some wires fixed under the hood of my 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee, because it wouldn't start. The mechanic told me that it looked like a squirrel had been making a nest under the hood and had chewed on some wires. I suspect that it may have happened over a long period of time, but I'm not positive of that.
Since then, a couple of times it has not started. I get in, turn the key, and all I hear is a click (not a repeated clicking).I've been able to get it to start by putting it in neutral, pushing it forward a foot or two, and then putting it back in park and turning the key again. When I do that, it starts right up. if you happen to know what part of the starter system is most likely at fault.
It started stalling out off and on. Thought maybe bad tank of gas and waited it out. Since then i have had the catalytic converter replaced. Ignition coil replaced complete tune up with new wires distributor and rotor button. Still stalled so they said fuel pump now that's been replaced and on my way home it stalled again.
View 9 RepliesWhen we open the radiator cap it seems like there is no fluid but once the car gets a like bit hot and we open the cap there is fluid. The fluid reservoir sometimes gets empty quickly but not often. We have no lights in dash board telling us that there is something wrong. What do we do?
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