I am about to begin servicing my new/old jeep. I am unfamiliar with fuel inj.
it is beginning to run a bit rough idling in drive with brake applied. It is beginning to start less easily, turning over longer before firing...
Pretty soon this thing's gonna have ALL new parts and STILL running rough! The Jeep has about 40K on a Jasper motor, 175K on everything else. I was experiencing starting issues (crank for 20-30 seconds), and noticed a P0171 code on my odometer (O2 sensor?) so off to my mechanic. He replaced two O2 sensors, no change. New code read MAP sensor, replaced, no change.
Finally, changed Fuel Pump in tank (Fuel filter was changed 2 months ago), still no change. I tried starting it tonight by turning the key 5-10 sec. to prime gas, started but still rough at idle. Runs strong above idle 1500-2000RPM. Mechanic can't check fuel pressure at rails? for some reason. My next thoughts were spark plugs and vacuum lines...
1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
View 8 RepliesMy 1990 Jeep Cherokee (automatic trans) will occasionally stall. The engine stops turning, the tachy goes to 0, no power steering, no power brakes. After I come to a stop I can always start it right back up. The previous owner suspected it was the ignition switch because the vehicle was stolen multiple times, column broken, etc. but I took the switch out and everything seems good and tight there. I tested the switch, not connected to the lock and I couldn't get it to duplicate the problem. It locks cleanly into each position. Start position has strong spring. I tested all the positions with the ohmeter. I drove around with the switch disconnected from the lock and wiggled it as I drove and I couldn't get it to stall. Sometimes I can go days without a problem and other times it will do it three times in a mile long drive.
I've searched the Internet for an answer but all the other posts about stalling the owners have trouble restarting their vehicle. Mine has never failed to restart after stalling. When it stalls it is a sudden loss of engine, no coughing or sputtering. The tachy drops to zero along with oil pressure, etc but the radio, lights, etc stays on. If I wiggle the key in the ignition I can't get it to start back up even if I'm coasting along at 40 mph. I have to turn the key back to the start position.
1990 Cherokee 4 L str 6 cyl
after shutting my jeep down I ve heard liquid moving. I decided to find the source. it turns out that I was hearing the oil draining back into the pan.
I was under the jeep with my ear next to the pan, no doubt of source.
this lasted about 15- 30 seconds before stopping. the front of the jeep was raised about 6", as I had parked it that way.is this concerning?
I was recently going to change my valve/rocker arm cover gasket, but decided to wait because it did not seem to be leaking and I did not want to use the inexpensive cork fel pro gasket that I had bought, I decided to wait until I could afford the more expensive gasket.
I did notice thru my oil fill cap that there is a lot of crud under the cover and I am concerned that my oil return drains are partially clogged.how can I clean these drains when I do change the gasket? since it has been strongly recommended here that I do not disturb the crud I m not sure how I should approach this. could vaccuming the loose crud with a shop vac be okay?
ps. dropping the oil pan is not an option right now because of the extensive labor involved on this model and the expense of all the new seals and gaskets required. I ve bought 200 bucks worth of parts and fluids this month and it will be awhile before I can afford more.
right now I have brake shoes, tranny filter and fluid, above gasket, oil and oil and fuel filters waiting on me to work on, and other non mechanical things.
to summarize my questions...
1) does noisy oil drainage concern you?2)how can I clean oil drains?
a. can I pour kerosene thru to clean oil drains, and to flush oil pan, which I can t drop right now?
b. can I shop vac under the valve cover?
c. should I add sea foam to oil for a bit before changing?
I have an '89 Jeep Cherokee and it idles way to high. In park it idles at from 1500-3000 after being warmed up. In drive it idles at 1300-1500. It idles at 2000 at 35 mph. We've replaced the O2 censor, the throttle positioning censor, the coolant temperature sensor, and a few other parts. None of this worked.
View 14 RepliesI have recently cleaned my throttle body and still have a rough idle. The rough idle is intermittent and especially occurs when I am in park and then hold on the brake and switch to reverse or forward without pressing the accelerator down and let it sit for a second. When it happens, it is usually so rough it wants to just stall out if I don't give it some gas.
View 8 RepliesI keep getting this message on information center " service for wheel drive switch", I own a 95 jeep grd chero. 4.0.. Can I do this one myself or do I need a pro in shop to service? Where to start.
View 9 RepliesAfter I start up and drive my jeep around town and then shut the engin off. Then I get back inside the jeep, start it up the engin idels rough. Some times the engin light comes on. I had a coil pack installed and still the same symptoms. What do you think?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Engine is running rough. Check engine light comes on. Code is P0152. The code is defined as high voltage on the front o2 sensor (bank 2). I hooked up the scanner again and checked the voltages. Both O2 sensors on bank 2 are never making it above 0.1V. That seems to contradict what the DTC is telling me. Is that somehow related to the fact that it is not going into closed loop? I'm a little confused.
View 8 Replies2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work? WHEN LIGHTS ARE ON, RT HAND BLINKER DOESN'T WORK...WHEN LIGHTS ARE OFF BOTH BLINKERS WORK..
View 1 Replies2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work?
View 2 Replies1990 Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder. The truck idles so rough it dies. It runs fine going down the road it just seems to "load up" at idle. I know there are hundreds of things that it could be, I just hate to start throwing parts at it. It is definitely running rich at idle.
It is one of those trucks that we have replaced a lot of parts. The scan tool said something about setting the timing??? Is there a way to set the timing? There is no distributor, and it is the one with 2 coils and 8 plugs.
I have always taken car to dealership for service/repairs. Recently left car at dealer service for just the above issue. They said they could not duplicate the sound. Perhaps they didn't drive long enough..it hadn't 'warmed up'? Everyone who rides with me hears it. It is very very annoying. What could this be?
View 6 RepliesFor those of you who have not purchased a new car for a while and are considering doing so in the near future I want to share the recent service experience I had for my 2015 Jeep Cherokee. I don't know if my experience was typical but I suspect it is.
I took my Jeep to the dealer for a routine service (LOF and tire rotation). The total time at the dealer was about 4 hours. Of that time, about 2 1/2 or 3 hours was spent in updating the software for the various computers. It had never occurred to me that computers were that pervasive in new cars.
Attendant to that, my Jeep has the 3.2L V6 engine, which comes with start/stop technology (when you stop at a stop light the engine shuts off and restarts when you take your foot off the brake). After the service was completed I noticed the start/stop function had stopped working. I contacted the dealer. The customer service representative spoke with the service technician, who contacted Chrysler. It seems that all of the software updates (there were a total of 6 of them) may take 3-7 days to become fully integrated into the system. I was told to wait a few days to see if the problem rectified. Sure enough, when I drove it today it had.
As outlined in this thread: [URL] .....
I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.
The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.
I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.
The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.
ODB2 Code: P0300 - Multiple Miss-fire
I have an issue with my Jeep Liberty. It started idling rough with no error codes. about a week later it through the Multiple misfire code. I started by replacing the spark plugs. The old ones were from 20K miles ago and still looked good. Replaced them anyway. I still had the code. I put K44 fuel injector cleaner into the tank and drove it home (2 miles.) The next morning I started it and went in side because I had forgotten something. I came out to extremely thick black smoke. It went away after about 2 minutes, the computer code cleared, and the engine idled perfectly. About 2000 miles later the car is once again idling poorly. I added K44 again and for that tank of gas it ran fine, no code. Once new gas was added it threw the same error code and idles very roughly.
So here are some basic info pieces:
1. 8 tanks of gas from 8 different locations.
2. Adding K44 has shown a direct improvement both times, but more significant the 1st time.
3. New spark plugs
4. New coil packs
5. 2005 Jeep Liberty - 3.7L V6 at 99,872 miles
6. Hopefully unrelated is that the car has a small radiator fluid leak I haven't found. It requires 1/2 gallon every 2K miles or so.
There is no knocking sound, it just sounds like there isn't enough gas. Car responds fine to accelerator. Above 10mph car seems to drive smoothly.
As winter comes in full force to NYC I've been experiencing some rough idle on my is350 AWD even after warming up my car for about 3-5 min. For ex. when I am at a stop light and have my foot depressed on the brake it feels as if the engine is revving higher than usual as if the acceleration pedal is lightly being depressed while I am braking. Is it just due to the cold weather?
View 11 RepliesI just got my first dub, and it is a project car. I have had it serviced and it still idles rough when in drive with foot on the brake but idles normal when in park. a
View 2 RepliesMy 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
View 5 RepliesWell all is ok now but I am not one to ignore or forget a symptom. After a long drive into the city over Christmas I pulled in to park at my destination. It was idling rough when I stopped. Vibration my be a better adjective but not too bad. It did not feel like ignition etc, not MIL on and putting it in Part did not change it. I shut it off and went inside for the festivities. Started it for the drive back and all was ok.
Whether some bad gas with water got in or something else I don't know as it as above freezing but I got thinking about this dam harmonic balancer pulley may have had on the 3.3L go. I have seen some post in in 2006 as well with this engine in other models. I got some 47L of quality Shell gas later on as well for the drive home days later. Still no issues but... IT HAPPENED AND I DON'T FORGET so I am thinking about it.
Is this a major problem on SF's some went as early as 30k from the owers. I had no other indicators and I doubt there is going to be much to see in the space with a light.