My oil pressure gauge jumps all over the place when I get over 3000 rpms. At lower rpms it is in the normal range and the engine sounds ok. How can I tell if this is the oil pump or the sending unit or the gauge? This is a 1980 CJ5 with a 151ci 4 cylinder.
View 2 RepliesI'm looking to trade my '95 dodge ram 1500 with someone for their '95 grand cherokee. The GC has 190k miles on it, my truck has 155k.
I noticed when test driving the GC that the oil gauge follows the rpms of the engine. I.e. when idle the oil gauge is low-mid level. When i raise the RPMs, the gauge indicates there is more oil pumping, then when i go back to idle it drops back down too; in other words it looks like the oil jumps with RPMs.
I've never seen this type of behavior before, is this a sign of typical behavior for a jeep GC, a bad gauge, maybe an oil leak?
95 jeep cherokee. My oil pressure gauge sometimes jumps up to 80lbs or bobs between 40 and 80lbs. Could this be anything other than sensor or gauge itself?
View 12 RepliesGauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee L6 4.0 Liter automatic with 223,000 miles.
The oil pressure usually runs around 1/8-1/4 when driving around town and now I am getting temperature spikes. I had the coolant and water pump replaced last fall when I was having similar idling issues then. My coolant isn't a perfect green color--it is a little bit grey, but it is full. I cleaned the entire throttle body last January, cleaned the IAC today, and redid the NSS this week (not that this probably matters, just being thorough in my explanation).
It seems to happen worst on hot days (of course) when idling in traffic for a few minutes and makes the air conditioned air run warmer than it should.
Is this a busted radiator? The mechanic said I did not have a leak when I had him check last week.
I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 140K + and recently had an oil change. I went on a 8 hr road trip split up between 2 days (there and back). On the way home I noticed my oil pressure gauge acting funny, going up and down but not past 40. Today, I drove home from work (10 miles or so) and the check engine light came on and the oil pressure gauge was very low, almost 0. I made it home but was very nervous and noticed both today and this weekend there was smell, burning or burned type smell. What should I do? I don't really trust the garage that changed the oil and was skeptical taking it there but was in a pinch.
View 12 RepliesAt the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
This is weird. SOmetimes my gas gauge fluctuates from low to high. I don't know how to explain it but it just bothers me thinking there might be a problem I'm not aware of. This also shows LCD display saying 190km left then after I start driving for a while it'll show 210km. [IMG] [URL] ....
View 8 RepliesSomething strange started happening to my '04 Prius yesterday and it happened again today. We are experiencing unseasonably warm temperatures here in Western Oregon for October and when I left my house this morning at 6:30 am, it was about 55 degrees. I have a half hour drive to work on a mixture of expressway, freeway, expressway again and then the two-lane highway.
Anyway, yesterday (and today) when I'm almost to work, my temp. gauge drops down to 37 degrees. This causes that yellow light to start blinking indicating that the engine will not shut off because of cold temps. It will warm back up to 45 degrees a minute or two later. Why is this happening? It for sure is not 37 degrees outside. Is my temperature sensor going bad? Is this exhibiting the behavior of a sensor going bad?
My fuel gauge fluctuates once I turn the key to Acc, once I fire it up it goes back to empty and climb back to the correct position,
Also once this happens, my MFD starts to act crazy, sometimes it shows nothing, and times gets stuck on the door open screen and my steering wheel controls go dead, if I turn off the car and then on its gets stuck "Volkswagen information" screen.
I disconnected/reconnect the battery everything went fine for a couple of days and then happened again,
I just purchased a 91 sierra sle with the short bed. I am interested in buying a cap for it because the snap on tonneu cover is falling apart and id like a cap. Would caps from other full size short bed pickups work or does it have to be from a sierra/silverado?
Also i notice the oil pressure fluctuates from around 20 to 80 depending on if I am idle (20) to acceleration at 80, when driving it seems to go up and down to depending on the accelerator position. is this normal??
I have a 2001 Honda CR-V SE, and I'm having a little trouble with it ... About a week ago I noticed that as I was driving around the city, my temp gauge was going up and down. I had the heat on, and when I was pressing the gas, the gauge would go down. When I coasted, the gauge would go back up to the middle. The gauge never went higher than the halfway point. I thought it was possible that my fluids were low, so I checked the coolant reservoir. It was empty, so I added some. The radiator itself was full to the lip (like the manual says it should be, if I interpreted it correctly). The first day or two, didn't notice anything, but then the gauge seemed to start falling again.
Anyhow, I decided to drive back to the big city to get it fixed, a 3 hr drive, last night. The car seemed to be operating fine. I did not have the heat on, but there was air flowing through the vents. The gauge started to creep downward, so I thought "Hey, let me hit that button that closes the vents" I did that, and the gauge creeped back up! Problem solved right? Negative! It was raining, so when that button was on too long, my windows got foggy. So that's how I spent the next two hours, button on, button off, then I finally just opened the windows to allow the air to circulate. In the meantime, I stopped for gas, allowed the car to idle for a while (no air/heat blowing at all) and the guage didn't move. It stayed in the middle.
Closer to the end of my trip the gauge started to creep upward, over the midpoint (The first time it's done that since this whole thing has started). Once off the highway, I turned the heat on that first notch, and the gauge went back down to normal.
At any rate, so it's Wednesday. I'm planning on getting the car to a shop on Friday, but in the meantime, I just wanted to get some info out there from the community. I'm pretty nervous about whats going to happen. I just had my car at an oil change place 5 days ago, and the guy didn't put the oil cap back on the engine, so I literally was driving for 3 days with oil spewing onto my hood (Checked the levels by the way and they were fine). The only way I would've known is that I opened the hood to check the coolant levels. I noticed the gauge issue last Wed, took it in for the oil change Friday (In which they said all my fluids were fine), checked the coolant Monday, and drove it 3hrs last night.
Are there any specific keywords I should mention to the mechanic for him/her to check?
I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
View 1 RepliesI have a pretty bad flex pipe leak on my 20th. Would this leak cause a very rough idle almost stalling when I come to a complete stop. The Idle fluctuates from almost stalling to 1000rpms.
View 1 RepliesI have a few problems with my explorer. I was just wondering if there's any way I can fix them on my own instead of paying a mechanic. I
1. back passenger window wont roll down .. .
2. Gas gauge fluctuates can't get an accurate reading on it .. .
3. service engine light comes on for a couple days, then goes off .. .
4. shifts hard if i go over 65mph and then slow back down .. .
So I noticed a few days ago when driving the turbo around that the temperature gauge fluctuates... ALOT. it will warm up to full operating temp, then when driving will go way down, almost to the cold line again and SLOWLY rise up, and when I mean slowly, I mean it takes about an hour or so to get there.
Well today, I changed the oil, there were about 2 qts in there but the car was about 2k overdue. MY BAD! So upon driving around seattle/bellevue/redmond today, noticed the gauge doing the same thing, and I am stumped, IDK why it would be doing this, the car doesn't overheat or anything.
Also, the girlfriend said that when she was driving the car, in the warmer weather, even while moving the temp gauge read almost hot, and the car was telling her to shut it off etc... I seriously am at a lose here.
The other night we noticed the TAIL light was out, but the brake light still worked. Last night we were out with some friends, they said that the TAIL AND BRAKE lights were not working, but ONLY on the drivers side, the passenger side worked as it should, we also noticed that when we hit the brakes, the front drivers corner light comes on and stays on until we take our foot off the brake.
!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
View 2 Replies2003 f250 6.0 had a no start issue at first which ended up being bad connection/ chaffed wire at ficm.. ive replaced regulator with blue spring, new oil/fuel filter housing, new Motorcraft filters, and a orileys fuel pump.... guage i have reads 55psi at start up. While accelerating it obviously drops down, but it seems to goto 40 to 45psi then back to 50..then at times it goes back down while driving and stays around 40 45psi regardless if accelerating or coasting etc. Then after couple mins when i accelerate it will go back up?
View 10 RepliesLet's say I'm going from zero to forty, my RPMs will hit over 3000, but when it shifts, the RPMS will drop down to 2000-ish really hard, making the car jerk. It's not a smooth drop, it's like a split second. Upon acceleration there is also a very rapid knocking sound. There's no lights on my instrument cluster.
This trouble all started after I had my alternator die, then having the car towed a few months back. Ever since then this problem has been getting worse. Wat this could be?
I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
View 21 RepliesSo I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI