Jaguar - Xj6 :: 1994 - Very Slight Leak From Gasket On Newly Replaced Water Pump?
Jan 20, 2011
Recently, I bought a new-to-me 1994 Jaguar XJ6 which had a small laundry list of things that needed work. Amongst them was to have the waterpump and belt replaced. Long story short, after getting it back from the shop (I'm a repeat customer) and 50 miles down the road, I checked things out under the hood. I saw that there was a small bit of coolant sitting on top of the pump where the mating surfaces meet. It appeared that was some weeping from the gasket. I'm a little perplexed because this shop hasn't done wrong by me before, but there's a first time for everything. Is it possible that the cold weather in North Dakota (routinely -10) is a factor? It doesn't appear to be a catastrophic leak by any means, but I intend to keep my eye on in it. In the mean time, I made sure the bolts nearest the leak were adequately tight and put some red RTV sealant where it was leaking. Is it possible this problem will "go away" or do I have to try to shake down the shop and get them to re-check it/fix it? Frankly, I'd rather not have to deal with them again, but I paid them good money to get it fixed.
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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I was surprised by a leak and identified where the water was coming from, the bottom of my vehicle. It's from a gasket or seal on the front of the pan near the flywheel. 1994 Ford Explorer 4X4.
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Ok so my car kept overheating and I saw I had a small leak from the gasket on the water pump. I replaced the water pump and gasket but then it would zoom straight to overheating. I then assumed it was a stuck thermostat and replaced the OEM with a fail-safe thermostat. After topping off fluid and leaving the radiator cap off until I saw fluid running through it took it for a drive. The temp began to climb to overheating but dropped just as it was getting to the red and then began to fluctuate. Finally heat came through the car climate system and all was good until I had to come to a stop. It seems that whenever I have to stop at a light the temperature rises to overheating.
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I replaced my water pump on my 2000 Excursion 7.3 about six months ago because it was leaking from the little hole underneath. Everything was fine until today I noticed a big stain on my driveway under the front of the truck. I took a look and the new pump is leaking. It seems to be coming from the the back of the water pump where it sits flush against the engine.
Could the gasket have deteriorated or cracked? I bough it from a local parts store called part source, so it should be under warranty. Any thoughts?
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1994 - 3.0 .... Back behind the water pump there is a stream of coolant what could that be. Water pump has been replaced earlier last year I thought that fixed it,there has always been a mystery leak..
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OK, we have a cavalier that is slowly dying but until we find a good price on a used car we are looking at it has to keep chugging along... It started to overheat about month ago, just when you go up a hill otherwise it is fine (doesn't overheat but a few lines from the red zone!). Mechanic said it was a head gasket and we have noticed that the coolant level is down slightly... can it be a head gasket yet still drivable? Also about 2 months ago the car needed a new water pump, flushed and filled, could it just be the new water pump was bad? No other issues, heat works fine, no puddles under the car etc....
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We have a 2005 4runner with 75,000 miles that we recently took to the dealer because the coolant level was low. Turns out we need a new timing case cover, oil gasket, and water pump.Question 1 - is this normal to happen on a 2005 4runner with 75,000Question 2 - How much is a reasonable amount to pay for this repair? Evidently, it is a laborious repair.
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I thought I needed a head kit my truck runs and drives great till I run out of coolant no smoke doesn't get hot I run out of coolant I lose my turbo. Pull over fill it up I'm back to normal I just noticed I have sweat marks on my water pump pulley.
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I have a 1990 legacy and just replaced the water pump gasket and now it is leaking out of an upper bolt head on the pump and how to cure this....
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I just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
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My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
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Four cylinder, 2004 Camry (2AZ-Fe), Auto with 98,000 miles.
I had to replace my water pump after driving with newly replaced Toyota Red antifreeze from the 8 year old Pink. I drove only two weeks and 1000 miles on it.
I believe that was just a coincidence. Some Camry's water pumps do not last even that long. Even if the coolant was not compatible with Toyota specification, it still could not destroy the pump seals in two weeks.
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My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
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Toyota dealer said computer indicated the water pump and belt needed replacing. We decided to do the replacement ourself. Now the light comes on which indicates car is running hot. We did replace the coolant. The 2005 Toyota Prius never ran hot before the replacement, What did we do wrong?
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I have a 2008 Camry SE with about 118K miles
I have replaced the Water pump and the temp sensor recently.
The problem is when you turn the thermostat control to hot on the HVAC dial only warm air blows and it is only warm when the engine is revved or going down the road.
My question is: Is the door on these electronically controlled or vacuum controlled? it is like the blend door gets stuck and is not closing fully or something.
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Bought new 2012 Tiguan SE 4Motion three weeks ago, today replaced water pump regarding high pitch noise issue. btw, how to make sure if the wastegate rattle issue has been fixed or not.
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On my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
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I have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?
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My son has a Mustang GT 5.0 that is overheating. I replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 3 core radiator. It had underdrive pulleys so I replaced them with stock pulleys. I put dual electric fans on it. I flushed the block and put a new thermostat and replaced all the hoses (made sure the bottom radiator hose had wire in it so it wouldn't collapse). I put a new water pump and drive belt but it still overheats when sitting in traffic and overheats when driving with the A/C on.
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I was driving on the highway at about 80 mph when my car made a thunk noise and then the mph dropped to 40 mph. The car was hesitating but I continued to drive it to gas station. At this point steam was coming from passenger side engine front. The coolant was coming out now my car was overheating to the extreme. I drove it to shop. Next day he changed the thermostat and water pump. But he said it took him a while to get air out / bleeding it?! The day I drive off with my repaired car it still sounds loud eventually it sounds like a helicopter!!! Next day take it to Infiniti dealer they say I need a new engine. Internal engine failure! Could this have happened because the water pump wasn't replaced correctly? My car is a 2006 Infiniti G35x, 96k miles.
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