My 1988 jaguar it don't matter whether the weather is hot or cold it will run great for about six or seven miles then it will just shut off like you turned the key off. well then you can wait about 15 or 20 minutes and ti will start and run fine for another few miles off again.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 Jaguar Vanden Plas, when I start it up there is a whine, the whine continues when I press gas and while the car is running. I just had the serpintine belt changed. What could be the cause or possible causes.
View 3 RepliesTruck in question has 175k, is the TBI version (fuel injected carburetor design), has had the plugs cap and rotor replaced fairly recently.
When cold, it starts and runs normally. As it warms (after around 20 miles) it starts running rough, then after getting warmer/full operating temp, it will stall at stop signs and runs very rich - so rich you can smell the unburned fuel. At this point it is also difficult to start and requires adding some gas pedal.
I am thinking a vacuum issue, or something that is not allowing it to transition from the warm up cycle to normal cycle.
I got a nice old Toyota. Let's say its a 88 Corolla, with about 215K on it. It was running well until the other day. The car was sitting outside during a rainstorm and when I hopped in, it wouldn't start. Issues are listed in the order they were observed:
1) Key in ignition doesn't create any noise or try to turn over
2) Battery is jumpable
3) Car engine stopped after being jumped. Actually, after I put my foot on the brake pedal.
4) Battery ceases to be jumpable.
5) If I wait a half an hour, battery makes indications that it is operable - ie engine lite works, or buzzing noise is made when door is ajar.
6) There is still no turn over noise.
7) Battery is not jumpable.
8) Maybe some smoke came out of the battery while I was trying to jump it.
In the past few weeks of driving I have rarely parked out doors in rainy conditions, although I drove plenty in the rain. (I am in the Pac NW).
I'd be happy to hear hints on the main source of the problem and what to look into. I am told the battery is new and the alternator was likely replaced recently, but there is no receipts for me to validate that.
So I have an 88 k1500 with the 350 that the previous owner removed and rebuilt... Didn't hook a lot of stuff back up etc... It's like a puzzle. It runs good for the most part but the oil pressure gauge in the cab pegs out when it's running. I've heard 1989 and older 350 engines have 2 oil pressure switches/sending units. I know about the one up by the distributor. But can't seem to locate the other one. Also what does the one by the distributor control? And what does the other one control?
View 1 Replies'88 K1500 350 with the Holley 670cfm TBI. Last year this truck started intermittently running rich to the point of stalling while at idle. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor and it ran fine, for a while. After a few months the same issue returned during cold weather but seemed to resolve this spring when things turned warm. Now the engine is really running rich all the time. I checked the CTS and got 2400 Ohms cold and 270 Ohms hot which isn't far form what I found as to be in spec. If I disconnect the CTS the truck runs better (idles up some) and does not appear to be running as rich but still not right. There are no codes in the computer and the O2 sensor was also replaced not that long ago.
View 5 RepliesWorking on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
View 13 Replies I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
Randomly, on my way home from work yesterday, the ECS light turned on, and stayed on for about 10 miles.
I got home, turned the car on and off, even drove around for 10 more minutes, and the light never turned back on.
Now this morning, on my way to work, the light popped back on and stayed on.
I have a 2011 Santa Fe, 4 cylinder.
Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
View 1 RepliesMy check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
View 30 RepliesI just bought a 2009 Toyota Camry base. The manual shows the fuel gas turned on when the fuel is lower than 2.8 Gallon. However, after the light was on, I drove about 20 miles, then filled the tank, but only 14.5 Gallon was filled. I was confused, because the tank was 18.5 Gallon per manual, I was thinking about refill around 16.5 Gallon. And how many miles could i drive with the fuel light on? 60 miles?
View 3 RepliesYesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2003 Sport Trac that basically died last night on me. I drove it 30 miles Shut it off for about 10 minutes came back out and it cranks but it will not start. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and it ran for a second, so it's definitely a fuel issue. I am just not sure if it could be a fuel pump, Relay, or a dirty Fuel filter (I have not changed in the 87K I had the truck). Because it ran fine before it died..
View 5 RepliesThe past couple of days, I would turn the car on, and within a second or two it will shut off automatically. Then, I would restart it without a problem, but the infotainment screen says they system is restarting. This has happened twice in two days.
View 13 RepliesSo I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
View 5 RepliesThe headlights have been giving us fits because we can't shut them off when we turn off the car. We have to start the car, sometimes drive it around and shut off lights before shutting off the car. And this process has to often be repeated several times before it works. Yesterday the lights came on by themselves when my husband turned off the car in the garage and he couldn't get them off so he disconnected the battery.
View 3 RepliesSo this morning when I started my car for work, the engine warning light turned on.....Last night it was perfectly fine. What surprised me was the car is only 3500 miles in. Why encountered the engine light issue this early in their ownership of the IS?
View 9 RepliesMy car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
View 9 Replies