Isuzu - Trooper :: 2001 - Hard Loud Ticking - Oil Leaking
Sep 25, 2012
Rebuilt engine, installed, started right up but had loud tic and started leaking oil. Pulled engine, fixed leak, inspected heads, re-installed, turns over but doesn't run. Weird thing is, first time I try to start it each evening it runs for about a second and then dies and then won't try to run again till the next day. This has happened 5 days in a row. I sprayed starter fluid in intake, no luck. I borrowed scan tool, no codes set just won't start.
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I have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper. I put too much oil in the other day, about half a quart, and wanted to drain it out of the bottom. I loosened the drain plug like normal and it wouldn't come out at all, just spun in the same place. Tried retightening the plug and it wouldn't tighten either. It was tight when I started. It would get tight for a second and then get loose again, feeling like a stripped thread. Oil is leaking out from around the plug. I cannot twist the plug with my fingers, so its not super loose but it's loose enough to leak oil. Is this a easy fix for an oversized plug or will the entire oil pan have to be replaced?
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Know that squealing sound a belt makes when it's loose and needs to be replaced? Well what is it when you hear that sound, but you know it's not a belt? It happens intermittently, usually when the car is cold...and it's been happening more and more lately...like whatever the problem is, is getting worse
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I have a 1998 isuzu trooper. it is over heating and there is air being put into the cooling system. there is a lost of fluid but only the same amount each each time and i dnt knw where too. i replaced water pump had radiator serviced and it flowing at the right flow for truck. it still over heated. i tried chemical called blue devil it worked for two days then failed it is freezing cold here and no garage but do have all tools.
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The problem I'm having is it starts fine in the morning but when I shut it off it it takes about an hour to start back up ..
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I own a 2001 isuzi trooper, the water pipe has been broken a couple times, so the radiator has been leaking so my car overheats. But I fixed it a couple of months ago, yet after I fixed it the car kept going through the water/coolant extremely fast and was overheating unless i put water in it every other day.
Yet, a couple of days ago, I was driving home, and i heard a bubbling noise, ignoring it i kept driving only to have complete loss of my accelerator and had my car rolling along the highway unable to accelerate. (And the last time I put water in the radiator was 10 days ago) now my car won't even turn on, and it sounds like it is having a very difficult time when I try the ignition. plus when I do try to turn the engine on, coolant is coming out of my exhaust pipe.
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My old Trooper, which is painted like the Merry Prankster bus, has had a series of electrical/ignition problems. It began earlier this winter with an occasional engine miss and also occasional a failure to start. My mechanic has replaced the distributor, the coil and the ignition control module (twice). Each time it runs fine for a couple of days and then starts acting up again. It is currently sitting in my driveway with zero spark coming out of the coil. The year of my Trooper is 1990.
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Recently, my 1988 Isuzu Trooper began dying at high elevations (above 7,500 feet). I have had the car for ~7years and have never had this problem. That is, in the past, i've been able to drive it up to 9,300 feet with no problem. Could this be vapor lock? If so, why would vapor lock all of sudden start happening? If not vapor lock, what could it be?
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I have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
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2.7L V6 here. It's got a loud ticking noise under the hood that sounds like it is coming from about the middle of the head closest to the front. It's been doing this for a long time now and is finally bugging me. The noise is related to RPMs meaning that as you rev the motor it gets faster (but not really louder). When I pulled the valve cover about a year ago both heads had lots of gunked up old burned oil which I cleaned up as much as possible. It doesn't throw any codes and runs just fine.
I'm about 99.9% sure I've got a collapsed lash adjuster(s). Is there a way to test it without pulling it? Can I pull the valve cover and have someone turn the engine over a few times to check for oil pumping from the lash adjusters? Is there a way to press it and see if it moves without pulling the cams? Any options to try and clean them while still in the motor?
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I have a 2001 Excursion v10. Every time I turn my AC on, as soon as it engages, there is a very loud clicking/ticking noise coming from the engine. What this is? Is it the compressor going out?
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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Oh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?
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I own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
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1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L MT 263,500 miles 2WD
I often, but not always, hear a loud "snap" when turning left, usually when executing a 90 degree turn.
It's been happening over the past few weeks. Seems to be coming from mid-vehicle but hard to be sure from the driver's seat.
No other symptoms. No vibration, no steering wheel shake, no noise while driving. I don't feel anything when I hear it.
I originally thought it may be a U-joint, but now that I found it happens only when turning left, that seems less likely?
It's a loud snap, could it be an engine or transmission mount?
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My engine light came on last November which was diagnosed as “fan clutch seized”. My automatic transmission’s coolant fan clutch was replaced. Since then and on more than one occasion while returning from skiing in the mountains, I will hear this loud whining sound coming from the transmission area. I only hear it when the car is de-accelerating and I have not been able to replicate it once I am out of the mountains and the outside temperature is warmer. Is this a faulty fan clutch issue?
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My 1995 Isuzu Rodeo began stalling when braked/stopped. The car would continue running only if the gas pedal was lightly pushed, keeping the flow going. I treated it with Seafoam and water remover and the problem went away for week. Now it will stall, then refuse to start for a period of time. When attempting to start the Rodeo a loud 'strangled' sound is sometimes heard, then nothing. Try again a few minutes later and the car starts and the ride home over the next mile is smooth. My untrained guess points to a bad starter. I also believe there were two problems at the same time, one being junk in the fuel line, perhaps a loose battery connection as a contributor, then a starter problem.
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The Rodeo runs great, looks great, and very clean, EXCEPT when I start to accelerate from stop lights, or just before it stops, it bumps, knocks or jerks a little. Feels like the noise is coming from the rear end. what is causing this noise and how to correct the problem?
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I have a brake problem on my 2001 Isuzu Vehicross that has mechanics at 3 garages stumped.I bought this SUV in Dec 2013 and drove for 9 months with no noticeable problems.
At PA state inspection in Sept 2014, all 4 brakes and rotors were replaced. Since then the brakes slowly started to not engage when the pedal is first pushed. It progressed until they didn't engage until about an inch from the floor.
In Nov 2014, the brake lines were checked for leaks and bled twice. Each time they worked fine for a few days, then started to not engage again. A friend suggested maybe it was not brake fluid in my brake line. A mechanic assured me they contained brake fluid. Needless to say, I did not drive this SUV much over the last several months.Then in July 2015, another mechanic thought it was the master cylinder so I had that replaced. It did not fix the problem.
It has progressed to the point where I can feel they are engaging when the pedal is close to the floor, but not very strongly and I travel further & further until I finally stop.There are no dashboard indicators, nor codes on a diagnostic computer showing a brake problem. I have never seen brake fluid on the ground under the vehicle. What might be causing this brake problem?
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Just started two days ago... My '01 Rodeo stutters and then the Check Trans and Cruise Control Lights come on and go out about 10 seconds later.
It seems like it only happens when at lower speeds between 10-30 Mph and when first starting out on a drive.
Vehicle Info : 2001 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L Automatic 2WD with 108k Miles
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I have a loud ticking noise (not the normal injector noise) that just started out of nowhere. The car felt fine even while making the noise. I have 97000 miles on her and this is the first time she's let me down. I'll take a video tomorrow. Any common problems come to mind?
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