I replaced the water pump, power steering pressure hose and pump, and fuel filter. I degreased the engine at a car wash and rinsed with the power hose. Now when I drive it chugs/hesitating from stop to accelerate. I took it to a shop who hooked it up to the machine MAF & map sensors working correctly but the computer is not controlling them. What can I do?
View 1 RepliesThis make and model is the same as a Chevy Trailblazer. It has 124K miles on it, when it's cruising, there is no weird noise from the engine, but when I give it gas at any speed, there is a distinct sound coming from the rear of the engine. It sounds like when you put a playing card on your bike and the spokes hit it, but faster. The more gas, the louder the sound. It's gotten progressively worse lately. My first thought was rattling valves, but I'm not sure. It also sounds like a hole in a vacuum hose or something. With the hood up and an ear to the engine, the sound is definitely coming from the engine, not around it, and toward the rear.
View 2 RepliesMy 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
Recently, my truck has started rolling back from a stop when accelerating. There seems to be a hesitation between when I depress the throttle and the transmission engaging. It doesn't clunk, just delays. Been doing it for a few weeks, but is now getting worse. Today, the symptoms are similar but more pronounced. When driving there doesn't seem to be an issue, just moving out from a stop.
Checked the fluid idling in park, level was good, fluid looks great, was changed by a shop 6 months ago. Is my 319,000km trans on its way out?
My daughter's 2004 Camry V6 has been hesitating when starting from a stationary position or when accelerating after slowing down. Dealer has been having hard time identifying cause but thinks it is an oxygen sensor. Had one sensor replaced last fall when light came on. Tech Rep says there are four sensors. At least one is bad but the other two sensors may also be bad. Is there really four oxygen sensors in the 2004 Camry? Would this cause the hesitation when accelerating?
View 2 RepliesAt least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
View 2 RepliesMy 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
I have water in the oil. I want to use blue devil, sealant. Should I flush the cooling system, running the vehicle with milky oil? or should I change the oil?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo with about 140,000 miles. The transmission slips when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. It there any hope for a repair that doesn't involve a tranny rebuild? Can anything else be done?
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo I have been trying to fix a problem with the AC. It seems to run fine when idling, but when driving it starts to run poorly. I have manifold gauges, hooked them up to the low & high pressure ports earlier this morning. Static pressure was 97 on low port, and 100 on high port. Outside temperature was 75, but I don't know what the humidity was. I had the windows closed, AC on coldest, fan turned on full blast, recirculating.
I stuck a probe thermometer into the center vent, and after about 10 minutes the air was blowing at 40 degrees F. The compressor was spinning, and low pressure was 40 and high pressure was 225. I ran it like this for about 15 minutes, no problems. Then I wedged the throttle with a pencil and that pushed the RPMs up to a hair over 2000. Then the compressor started shutting off, then on, but not in any kind of rhythm that I could detect. The low pressure would drop to 23, the high pressure would jump up to 400; then high pressure would plummet to around 220.
Engine coolant level is normal, both fans are blowing, K & N air filter just got cleaned, relay seems good. The check engine light was on with a reading about the EGR valve, which I have cleaned. The engine light has not come back on. I know this is a lot of detail, but I'm trying to be thorough. I'm handy and mechanically inclined, but out of my depth at this level of AC troubleshooting.
My 1993 Isuzu pickup with a 2.3L 4 cylinder has started to stall when I take my foot off the accelerator, it runs fine as long as I am giving it gas, but when I take my foot off the gas to stop at a light, it dies. It always starts right back up. Recently, it also stalls when I crank it unless I am giving it gas. It seemed like vacuum but the shop did a smoke test and could not find anything. Finally I cranked up the idle adjustment so that it idles around 2k RPM. So far so good, but obviously not the right answer.
View 1 RepliesI have '88 Isuzu Trooper that has been sputtering lately. I'll be driving for a while then all of a sudden, it will start sputtering, lose all power and die. When I try to restart it, it will go immediately back to sputtering/dying mode. It's done it 3 times now. The first time, I waited about 20-30 minutes and was able to drive it for 5 minutes before the problem happened again. After waiting ~1 hour it started just fine and drove fine. The car drove fine for a few weeks then the same thing happened.... again, after waiting a few hours, it drove fine. I didn't have the problem again for a year and just happened again last night.
View 5 RepliesI've been working with a friend who has a problem with his 96 Isuzu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittently cuts off. He pulls to the side of the road, and tries to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes.
View 14 RepliesI am having to replace my 94 isuzu rodeo engine because after my oil was changed by a shop, the oil pan plug came out on the freeway and the engine seized up.
View 4 Repliesgot a 2000 rodeo that dies whenever I stop for light. I have replaced plugs.fuel filter and had fuel system cleaned, also ran seafoam thru EGR and brake booster but it still dies out.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 Rodeo that they can't seem to diagnose what is wrong with it. I love my Rodeo but lately when I start it (and it starts very quickly every day), the gas, battery and brake lights light up and remain on during the 5 mile drive to work. It is an automatic V6. I cannot use the power windows, wipers or the heat/air while these lights are on. Okay, I can use the windows and wipers but they move so slowly.
I have tried to sit and let it warm up thinking they would go out but nothing happens - the lights stay on.
The return trip home from work, the lights usually turn off as I turn into my driveway. I have had the charging system checked and the battery and everything says it is fine and charging just right.
Another odd thing is once in a while when I am on a long drive - Interstate or country roads with no stops - the check engine light pops on. Once I remove my foot from the gas or I stop and let it idle, the light goes out only to come back on when I depress the gas pedal.
My 02 Isuzu Rodeo will over rev before shifting into 3rd. The problem is intermittent and only happens when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Shifting is smooth in all other gears. The car will not accelerate while the motor is revving between gears. The fluid was recently replaced.
View 18 Replies2005 Isuzu Ascender 6cyl--auto-- all power--2 wheel dr-- Air cond blows very little air that is only slightly cooler than the outside temp. This only happens during hot weather( 90 Fahrenheit or higher ) after highway driving for extended periods of time, usually after a few hours. It works as it should during any other conditions. After letting everything cool down, it works properly. The dealer says they cannot get it to duplicate this action and therefor says there is nothing wrong with it. I first noticed this at about 50,000 miles because that was my first trip in it. It now has 70,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2000 Isuzu Trooper. About 3 weeks ago my oil light came on while driving. I immediately stopped, checked my oil, then had my car towed to the shop, worried that I had lost oil pressure. Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong--oil was full, pressure is fine. He couldn't even get the light to come on once my car was at the shop. I drove home, and the light came on later during my drive. Knowing everything was okay, I continued.
I brought my car in again today since the light has been consistently coming on since then (which includes constantly turning on/off, flickering, dimming, brightening). He replaced my oil sending unit. I drive away today, and the light hasn't come on yet.
However, I just realized that it also isn't showing when I first turn my key and do a light check. I'm kind of frustrated with him (and also myself) that he or I didn't realize that it wasn't coming on for the light check, and instead just called it good since it wasn't coming on while driving. What could be going on?
I have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper. I put too much oil in the other day, about half a quart, and wanted to drain it out of the bottom. I loosened the drain plug like normal and it wouldn't come out at all, just spun in the same place. Tried retightening the plug and it wouldn't tighten either. It was tight when I started. It would get tight for a second and then get loose again, feeling like a stripped thread. Oil is leaking out from around the plug. I cannot twist the plug with my fingers, so its not super loose but it's loose enough to leak oil. Is this a easy fix for an oversized plug or will the entire oil pan have to be replaced?
View 2 RepliesThe Rodeo runs great, looks great, and very clean, EXCEPT when I start to accelerate from stop lights, or just before it stops, it bumps, knocks or jerks a little. Feels like the noise is coming from the rear end. what is causing this noise and how to correct the problem?
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