Isuzu :: AC Not Running Properly When Driving
Jun 2, 2013
I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo I have been trying to fix a problem with the AC. It seems to run fine when idling, but when driving it starts to run poorly. I have manifold gauges, hooked them up to the low & high pressure ports earlier this morning. Static pressure was 97 on low port, and 100 on high port. Outside temperature was 75, but I don't know what the humidity was. I had the windows closed, AC on coldest, fan turned on full blast, recirculating.
I stuck a probe thermometer into the center vent, and after about 10 minutes the air was blowing at 40 degrees F. The compressor was spinning, and low pressure was 40 and high pressure was 225. I ran it like this for about 15 minutes, no problems. Then I wedged the throttle with a pencil and that pushed the RPMs up to a hair over 2000. Then the compressor started shutting off, then on, but not in any kind of rhythm that I could detect. The low pressure would drop to 23, the high pressure would jump up to 400; then high pressure would plummet to around 220.
Engine coolant level is normal, both fans are blowing, K & N air filter just got cleaned, relay seems good. The check engine light was on with a reading about the EGR valve, which I have cleaned. The engine light has not come back on. I know this is a lot of detail, but I'm trying to be thorough. I'm handy and mechanically inclined, but out of my depth at this level of AC troubleshooting.
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I have a brake problem on my 2001 Isuzu Vehicross that has mechanics at 3 garages stumped.I bought this SUV in Dec 2013 and drove for 9 months with no noticeable problems.
At PA state inspection in Sept 2014, all 4 brakes and rotors were replaced. Since then the brakes slowly started to not engage when the pedal is first pushed. It progressed until they didn't engage until about an inch from the floor.
In Nov 2014, the brake lines were checked for leaks and bled twice. Each time they worked fine for a few days, then started to not engage again. A friend suggested maybe it was not brake fluid in my brake line. A mechanic assured me they contained brake fluid. Needless to say, I did not drive this SUV much over the last several months.Then in July 2015, another mechanic thought it was the master cylinder so I had that replaced. It did not fix the problem.
It has progressed to the point where I can feel they are engaging when the pedal is close to the floor, but not very strongly and I travel further & further until I finally stop.There are no dashboard indicators, nor codes on a diagnostic computer showing a brake problem. I have never seen brake fluid on the ground under the vehicle. What might be causing this brake problem?
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I've been working with a friend who has a problem with his 96 Isuzu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittently cuts off. He pulls to the side of the road, and tries to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes.
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I have a 99 Isuzu Rodeo V6 - Auto Trans. The car operates fine, however when driving long distances - say 150 - 200 miles if I stop and try to restart within 5 minutes it will not start. It will attempt a start but choke out - and sometimes not even that - it just has the low click of the starter. Temp. gauge registers normal - not sure if it's an overheating issue - but nothing indicates that. Car will eventually restart (or at least has to date) after a 15-20 minute rest period. I had some issues early last year - had the EGR valve replaced, thought that had solved it..
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About two months ago I noticed a transmission-y rattle coming from my 1982 Isuzu P'up (diesel). The rattle wouldn't start right away, you had to drive the truck for 4 or 5 miles before it would kick in. And it wasn't always there, it would sort of go away and come back intermittently, although this pattern repeated every time I drove the car. The noise was present in every gear, including 4th.
I took it to a transmission guy, who claimed to have heard it coming from the engine, not the transmission, while it was up on the lift. Later I took it to another mechanic, who insisted it was in fact the transmission, and that the transmission guy didnt know what he was talking about.
Stuck in a contradictory limbo, I drove the car around for a few days, trying to make notes on the problem.
And then the car had an electrical problem, which kept me from driving it for about 2 weeks. The guy who did the electrical doesn't speak english very well, but as I understand it he fixed something that recharges the glow plugs? Or recharges the battery? Not sure.
But here's the thing: The noise is gone. I've been driving the car for two weeks now, taken a longish (80 miles round trip) freeway drive and I keep waiting for it to come back. But no noise! So what's going on??? Where did my noise go?
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As stated in the title, I have a 2000 Isuzu rodeo s fwd v6 SUV. While driving on the road recently I lost my speedometer, odometer, and cruise control. The odometer is digital and I can still read the display when the car is on, however the number never changes. There is a little over 185 K on the odometer. I did some research on my own and figured the problem was my vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I thus bought one, changed it without problems, yet my problem persists.
Now when I drive for a bit, and come to a stop my vehicle sometimes stalls. Not all the time though. I figure even though the VSS is good (I changed the second one I put in again for a factory VSS and still I get no change) maybe the signal isn't getting to the ECM. What are my other options for the issue? Could it be the cluster behind the console? Is there a speedometer cable in this vehicle that could be causing this problem? Is there some little selenoid somewhere that is bad and is causing these problems?
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We have a 2007 Toyota Prius, the fuel gauge seems to not run properly, It shows empty after about 330 miles but there is still 6 gallons left in the tank, as when I fill it at 1 bar it takes about 6 gallons of tank to fill it?
Will we be able to drive even though gauge is showing empty but there is half a tank of gas still in the car?
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Yesterday my lady's 2001 Explorer Sport with a 4.0 SOHC was running like a top and then suddenly after sitting parked for a couple hours it would crank but not start. After letting it sit for an hour or so it cranked and seemed to run ok. She drove a mile or so and it died at a stop light. It wouldn't start for a few minutes and then finally started but in limp mode. The engine was shaking and barely able to idle so she pulled into a parking spot and I came and checked it out and we had to have it towed home. This problem is just out of the blue suddenly with no warning.
Today I was able to get it to start but it shook really badly and was running like it possibly wasn't getting the right air/fuel mixture. There is no check engine light on. At one point today I realized that once it started and was idling horribly and shaking I could press the gas pedal just slightly and hold it there and the rpms would slowly go up and then the engine would smooth out. If I slowly gave it gas I could get the engine up to 3000 rpms and then it would hesitate and drop the rpms back down to 2500. If I try to rev the engine quickly it acts like the engine is flooding or starving and chokes and stalls.
It has 111k miles on it. She has only owned it for 6 months but it has ran flawlessly to this point, other than one random time that it just died at a stop light shortly after she got it.
I'm not familiar with these 4.0L SOHC engines and I'm not really sure where to start. The coolant was low, maybe 1/2 - 2/3 full in the radiator but she said that it did not overheat and she pays attention to her temperature gauge because she's had overheating issues in other vehicles in the past. This coolant has to be going somewhere. Hopefully it's not an intake or head gasket issue. We have not noticed any leaks and the oil was just changed last week and there is no coolant in the oil. The engine doesn't smoke at all either.
Maybe I need to buy a OBD scanner and check the air/fuel mixtures? I recently ordered a cheap ODBII bluetooth dongle for my android phone but the piece of junk only worked once so I have to order a different one. My girlfriend has to work in 2 days and I need to get this figured out ASAP.
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My air conditioner (from new) seems to work properly only when I'm driving over 50mph. On the interstate, for example, it's fine. Recently I had a passenger who really drew my attention to it. "What's wrong with your air conditioner. You should get it fix!"
It seems that, when I am stopped (as in stop-and-go traffic) or parked with the car running, the air conditioner blows warm air.
Is this normal for this car? It's a 2006 Azera. If not, is there an easy fix?
This happened from day 1, so I just thought it was normal. But I guess it's not.
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I replaced the water pump, power steering pressure hose and pump, and fuel filter. I degreased the engine at a car wash and rinsed with the power hose. Now when I drive it chugs/hesitating from stop to accelerate. I took it to a shop who hooked it up to the machine MAF & map sensors working correctly but the computer is not controlling them. What can I do?
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I have water in the oil. I want to use blue devil, sealant. Should I flush the cooling system, running the vehicle with milky oil? or should I change the oil?
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I have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo with about 140,000 miles. The transmission slips when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. It there any hope for a repair that doesn't involve a tranny rebuild? Can anything else be done?
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My 1993 Isuzu pickup with a 2.3L 4 cylinder has started to stall when I take my foot off the accelerator, it runs fine as long as I am giving it gas, but when I take my foot off the gas to stop at a light, it dies. It always starts right back up. Recently, it also stalls when I crank it unless I am giving it gas. It seemed like vacuum but the shop did a smoke test and could not find anything. Finally I cranked up the idle adjustment so that it idles around 2k RPM. So far so good, but obviously not the right answer.
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I have '88 Isuzu Trooper that has been sputtering lately. I'll be driving for a while then all of a sudden, it will start sputtering, lose all power and die. When I try to restart it, it will go immediately back to sputtering/dying mode. It's done it 3 times now. The first time, I waited about 20-30 minutes and was able to drive it for 5 minutes before the problem happened again. After waiting ~1 hour it started just fine and drove fine. The car drove fine for a few weeks then the same thing happened.... again, after waiting a few hours, it drove fine. I didn't have the problem again for a year and just happened again last night.
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I have a huge problem!!! While I'm driving every week my 07 Santa Fe just "kicks out". First my touch screen system cuts off then the car will stop running. This morning every time I hit the brakes my check engine light would pop on then my touch screen and lights would "restart". As I was pulling into my neighborhood it completely cut out of me. Nothing worked, not even the power door locks. And I couldn't put it in park. This has never happened. Usually it just kicks out, restarts and then I can go. This has got to stop!!
In the past when this has happened I was able to pop the hood and wiggle the wire on the battery. Then my lights and everything turn back on and I can continue to go where I was going. Battery and connectors were replaced in June 2012
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My truck has been running hot during highway driving. As long as I'm driving around town I don't have an issue. Truck has run around 199 degrees in Florida summer weather since I got it. Pulling this info from torque. At this temp the dial hits the gauge at about the 1/3 Mark. On the highway the dial will jump up to about 8/10th with a torque reading of 203 degrees. Pegging out with temp reaching as high as 210.
As soon as I pull over or even get off the interstate and continue to drive, temps come back down. Not sure what the issue is here. in the last year I have replaced the thermostat with a failsafe thermostat that if I recall was a 190. I also replaced the plastic heater control valve. I'm not really sure where to go here. My suspension is the water pump, or belt slip. I replaced the power steering pump this winter. I suppose maybe I didn't get the puppy lined up perfectly, but not sure if that would cause an issue like this.
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I am having to replace my 94 isuzu rodeo engine because after my oil was changed by a shop, the oil pan plug came out on the freeway and the engine seized up.
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got a 2000 rodeo that dies whenever I stop for light. I have replaced plugs.fuel filter and had fuel system cleaned, also ran seafoam thru EGR and brake booster but it still dies out.
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I have a 1994 Rodeo that they can't seem to diagnose what is wrong with it. I love my Rodeo but lately when I start it (and it starts very quickly every day), the gas, battery and brake lights light up and remain on during the 5 mile drive to work. It is an automatic V6. I cannot use the power windows, wipers or the heat/air while these lights are on. Okay, I can use the windows and wipers but they move so slowly.
I have tried to sit and let it warm up thinking they would go out but nothing happens - the lights stay on.
The return trip home from work, the lights usually turn off as I turn into my driveway. I have had the charging system checked and the battery and everything says it is fine and charging just right.
Another odd thing is once in a while when I am on a long drive - Interstate or country roads with no stops - the check engine light pops on. Once I remove my foot from the gas or I stop and let it idle, the light goes out only to come back on when I depress the gas pedal.
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My 02 Isuzu Rodeo will over rev before shifting into 3rd. The problem is intermittent and only happens when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Shifting is smooth in all other gears. The car will not accelerate while the motor is revving between gears. The fluid was recently replaced.
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2005 Isuzu Ascender 6cyl--auto-- all power--2 wheel dr-- Air cond blows very little air that is only slightly cooler than the outside temp. This only happens during hot weather( 90 Fahrenheit or higher ) after highway driving for extended periods of time, usually after a few hours. It works as it should during any other conditions. After letting everything cool down, it works properly. The dealer says they cannot get it to duplicate this action and therefor says there is nothing wrong with it. I first noticed this at about 50,000 miles because that was my first trip in it. It now has 70,000 miles.
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